Author Topic: Paint removal  (Read 1350 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jjb62556

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 308
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +42
Paint removal
« on: July 23, 2019, 08:46:38 AM »
0
Trying to remove the paint off the Atlas C Liner...Tried ELO and destroyed the shell..did not even touch the paint. Using 90% alcohol..no good so far. Any other ideas?  Jim

craigolio1

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 2543
  • Respect: +1928
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2019, 08:55:25 AM »
0
I’ve had good success using a Badger sandblaster for stubborn paint.

Craig

Dirk Jan Blikkendaal

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 186
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +337
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2019, 09:11:42 AM »
0
I agree with Craig!
See also FB/North American Ho & N..... some time ago a story by Lou Bourdages on decal removing and my post (plus all replies) in RW/3D PRINTING - Air eraser to clean 3D prints..... terrific.
I also use car brake fluid to remove paint from plastic and brass models (for more than 30 years). So far never had a model destroyed.... 
SANTA FE ALL THE WAY
1950-1960
ATSF N Scale Models

thomasjmdavis

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 4145
  • Respect: +1146
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2019, 10:44:19 AM »
0
I've had very good luck with a cleaning product called Simple Green. In some cases the shell needs to soak for 24 hours. It does not remove everything, but it has removed most paint on Atlas-Rivarossi cars I have tried it on.   That said, some enamels of that era just don't come off- so sandblasting might be the only way to go- although the enamel paint might be tougher than the plastic shell, so be careful and use some masking if possible.

The downside is that Simple Green has a pretty strong smell- so rinse thoroughly and prime inside and out, or it will smell very "clean" for a very long time.
Tom D.

I have a mind like a steel trap...a VERY rusty, old steel trap.

CRL

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 2339
  • Needs More Dirt.
  • Respect: +640
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2019, 12:34:07 PM »
0
Wouldn’t the latent smell indicate there was residue remaining on the model? Could that inhibit the paint?

jjb62556

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 308
  • Gender: Male
  • Respect: +42
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2019, 03:05:25 PM »
0
Used oven cleaner...it did the job..Thanks for the help...Jim

peteski

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 33734
  • Gender: Male
  • Honorary Resident Curmudgeon
  • Respect: +5827
    • Coming (not so) soon...
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2019, 03:05:44 PM »
0

I also use car brake fluid to remove paint from plastic and brass models (for more than 30 years). So far never had a model destroyed....

DOT3 brake fluid and ELO contain very similar ingredients (glycols), so that  might be one example where brake fluid might have attacked that shell.
. . . 42 . . .

thomasjmdavis

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 4145
  • Respect: +1146
Re: Paint removal
« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2019, 03:37:58 PM »
0
Wouldn’t the latent smell indicate there was residue remaining on the model? Could that inhibit the paint?
Best answer I can give is "I don't know."  Maybe I have a sensitive nose, but virtually all paint removers leave a residual smell, according to my nose.  Whatever the case, after a thorough rinse, and I also generally give everything a last minute quick bath in 90% alcohol just in case of fingerprints, etc. I haven't had any "residue related" issues. 

The other thing I am always careful about is to not go direct from cleaning to paint- always let things set a couple days, other than the touch up cleaning with alcohol.  Have also learned to do let paint-even acrylic- dry a couple days before decaling and have found I have better results.  Plus it gives me an excuse to be lazy, and lets things pile up until I have enough things to do in whatever color so that it seems worthwhile to get out the airbrush.
Tom D.

I have a mind like a steel trap...a VERY rusty, old steel trap.