Need a little cleaning advice

[Chris1274]

I recently picked up an old-stock Atlas GP40-2 that had some really gunked up trucks. I tried soaking the gears in 91% alcohol, but that's not helping very much to get the crud off. You can see the residue here:



Can anyone suggest a good method for getting these parts clean?

[peteski]

I clean items like that in Naphtha (Ronsonol Lighter Fluid or VM&P Naptha from a hardware store).  It seems to dissolve oil and grease better than alcohol.

But the cream colored residue won't come off easily. Even in an ultrasonic cleaner I use. The only way I found to totally remove it is to take the gears out and scrub them using a brush moistened with Naphtha.

Of course, use common sense - Naphtha is flammable (Lighter Fluid). 

[Chris1274]

OK, I'll give that a try, thanks for the suggestion.

[havingfuntoo]

I use mineral turpentine or kerosene  it less volatile and far more friendly on the skin. You should always take care when using solvents to protect your skin and eyes.   

[Lemosteam]

I find that a cheap ultrasonic toothbrush works really well on things like this and my Shapeways parts.

[Philip H]

for gear cleaning I use Simple green and a stiff brush.

[Doug G.]

A petroleum derivative always works the best to dissolve another petroleum derivative. So mineral spirits or something like kerosene are ideal, even if the old lubricant is synthetic. Make sure you clean the object with a good detergent afterward. Although petroleum products probably won't attack the Delrin-type plastic most trucks are made from, it's always better to be safe.

And yes, use an old toothbrush or similar.

Doug

[sd45elect2000]

I use Dawn dishsoap and a toothbrush. Dawn takes grease out of your way. Its also safe for plastics and won't make it brittle or etch it.

Randy

[peteski]

The above things mentioned are the reason I use Naphtha (not water with detergent or kerosene).

It evaporates quickly leaving no residue. No need to wash the part afterwards.
It is a rather mild solvent - does not attack any of the plastics used on model locomotives (especially the slippery plastic used for gears and truck parts).

I also use it to clean motors (I dunk the entire motor in it). Since it is not water-based there is no possibility of rust developing on any exposed steel parts in the motor.

[havingfuntoo]

Peteski, I am not going to take you on as to why you should avoid using lighter fluid, Kerosene is a lubricant in its own right, it also can be used as a very fine abrasive on some soft metals. There is no need to wash the item in water after cleaning with kero, if you are concerned immerse the item in alcohol and use a coarse paint brush to ensure the kero is displaced.  The process can not be more simple.

[peteski]

Peteski, I am not going to take you on as to why you should avoid using lighter fluid, Kerosene is a lubricant in its own right, it also can be used as a very fine abrasive on some soft metals. There is no need to wash the item in water after cleaning with kero, if you are concerned immerse the item in alcohol and use a coarse paint brush to ensure the kero is displaced.  The process can not be more simple.

Well then, Kerosene it is for you.  But I am also curious as to why I should avoid Naphtha for cleaning this type of an item (but I don't need to hear the health dangers - those I'm already well aware of).  Just whether Naphtha can negatively affect Delrin or other similar plastics.

[havingfuntoo]

No damage to the materials you are cleaning, not that I am aware of anyhow, but you know as well as I do that not all forum members are prepared to take the precautions or have the facilities to safely use some materials. I try to offer advise that utilizes the safest and easiest materials to use and get, that will also give a good result.

May be I overthink and over compensate for others in areas that you would call common sense, but I am sure you will agree, common sense is not so common. 

Now to kerosene, you can safely soak the items in an open jar over a period of 30 or so minutes and when finished the hardened grease will just fall off with light agitation from one of those cheap art brushes. Most people can place their fingers in it without fear of damaging their skin, and it has a reasonable level of odor  (no I am not going to start on vapor pressures ect) . Nothing fancy just a simple solution. For what it is worth, I have at my disposal an arsenal of solvents and alcohols as well as a daunting range of surfactants a lot of which the general public can not get and I still like the results I get with kero.

[nkalanaga]

I've never used kerosene for cleaning, but that was the original use for gasoline, so it isn't surprising.  And, if you live in an area with cold winters, especially a rural area, you likely have a kerosene heater for emergencies.  If it really works that well for cleaning, it couldn't be easier than grabbing a cup from the kerosene can.