Anybody ever build a Sankei (or other) paper kit?

[Denver Road Doug]

I've never attempted any type of paper kit so just curious what the consensus is.   Any way to paint them?

I'm looking at this http://r.ebay.com/By3QtH for a small Z layout I'm working on.

[Denver Road Doug]

This is what I'm trying to emulate...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nakrnsm/14730808561/in/photostream
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nakrnsm/14730812221/in/photostream
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nakrnsm/14547315680/in/photostream
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nakrnsm/14733980935/in/photostream
Obviously I need a girder bridge too.

Any other alternatives for a cheap truss bridge in Z?   The Rokuhan is both too long (fairly easy fix) and has those stupid side walkways. (not as easy to fix, from what I can see from pics)   I would like for it to be 150-180mm range for length.   I looked at the possibility of using the Atlas N warren truss...it's a tad short and would need the cross bracing.  Still not ruling it out.

The Sankei is the perfect length and look, and even the color isn't a deal breaker.  Its a shame that--being paper--they couldn't print rivet detail on it.

[Denver Road Doug]

As I think this through a little more...I wonder if it would be possible to run these through a printer prior to punching them out?  I scan them, do an overlay for the rivets, and maybe even weathering.   Hmm...might be worth $13 to order a second one for a guinea pig.  Edit: guess if I'm scanning it, no need for a guinea pig I'll just print it out on cardstock and then run it back through for the test.

[Jesse6669]

That's pretty cool.  It's more cardstock than paper--but being laser cut will greatly ease the assembly I'd think. 


*I have not made any of these* but I'd presume that thorough sealing will be essential to prevent any warping or other effects of moisture.

[railnerd]

My friend Malcolm has built a fair number of these kits, albeit in N.  Might want to check his blog: http://n-rail.blogspot.com

[Catt]

Doug, here's one that is US made.Might makre a good starting point for a better detailed unit.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/71647301/bridge-in-a-box-z-scale-model-kit?ref=shop_home_active_16

[Philip H]

They have some cool looking stuff in that line - if I wanted to do a modern small or regional airport thier 1:144 airport buildings would do the trick nicely.

[peteski]

I've never attempted any type of paper kit so just curious what the consensus is.   Any way to paint them?

I'm looking at this http://r.ebay.com/By3QtH for a small Z layout I'm working on.

I haven't build a paper model kit since my teens.  Those were the old fashion type where I had to cut the pre-printed parts from a sheet of thick paper.  Since the parts were printed in color, no painting was needed.

The ones you mentioned here look to me closer to any standard model RR laser kit.   If you think about it laser kits are usually either wood or some sort of paper-based boards anyway.  I would think that for painting you could use any technique you would use on any wood/paper laser kit.  Basically use any organic solvent based paint (not water based) and you should be ok.

[Denver Road Doug]

They have some cool looking stuff in that line - if I wanted to do a modern small or regional airport thier 1:144 airport buildings would do the trick nicely.

Yes, I noticed those.   I will eventually might be modeling a very small airport in N so that's good to know about.   The jetway is cool, but too big time for my operation.   

Railnerd, thanks for the link.  Some good info there, especially if you do a search within the blog for Sankei.

Catt, that one is a curved arch truss, which I think would detract from the look I'm going for.  (unless there's a straight truss version I missed?)   Regardless, thanks for the suggestion.

[Santa Fe Guy]

If you wanted to add rivet detail you could look at the Archer line of rivet decals. They should work on the paper if you first sprayed it with a clear gloss. Might just add the details you want.
Rod.

[loyalton]

Per peteski, lacquer works in very light spray coats, assuming the paper is not coated. You could make a mask to spray paint the rivets, but those are small compared to many other bridges. Look at the Trinity River bridge photo at Z size and you don't see rivets. Naturally, you'd have to have the photo handy by the layout to prove to PITA visitors that this is so.

Haven't done Sankei kits, but they are popular. One thing is have a truly sharp knife and not Xacto blades, which dull too fast for my taste. Single-edge razor blades fill the bill cheaply -- those are still a craft/hobby store staple. Another is to glue tabs and edges fully (no skips) for strength. Me, I wouldn't necessarily trust it not to distort slightly over time and would probably put in reinforcement on the least visible inside edges of the floor I-beams.

[Denver Road Doug]

Per peteski, lacquer works in very light spray coats, assuming the paper is not coated. <snip>

 One thing is have a truly sharp knife and not Xacto blades, which dull too fast for my taste. Single-edge razor blades fill the bill cheaply -- those are still a craft/hobby store staple. Another is to glue tabs and edges fully (no skips) for strength. Me, I wouldn't necessarily trust it not to distort slightly over time and would probably put in reinforcement on the least visible inside edges of the floor I-beams.

Good tips, thanks.