Build a DC either/or DCC layout

[Randij]

I understand this is possible? The difference seems to be in the switch configuration.
I have a DC layout, if I rewire the switches for DCC and create the DCC bus, will it work?
What are the other considerations?

[ryan_wilkerson]

The layout would need to be divided electrically. I like simple so I would go with one or the other if you are building new. DCC has been really fun for me and my sons.

[peteski]

I understand this is possible? The difference seems to be in the switch configuration.
I have a DC layout, if I rewire the switches for DCC and create the DCC bus, will it work?
What are the other considerations?

By "switch" do you mean "turnout"?  Of a layout reliably runs on either system you the switch to the other type of a system should be trouble free.

The problem with DCC is that the electronic breaker is very fast acting when there is a short. Sometimes the frog area of the turnouts has opposite polarity rails too colse (or the metal wheel threads are so wide) that there will be a very brief short as the model traverses a turnout. In DC this is unnoticeable, but it will trip a DCC breaker causing the model loco to have a hiccup. When someone says that a switch is DCC-friendly they mean that it is constructed or wired in a way which will prevent this kind of short from occurring.

[Kentuckian]

My HCD layout uses Kato unitrack turnouts, Peco code 55 turnouts, and Atlas code 55 turnouts.  I use both DC and DCC on the whole layout, just not at the same time.  A double pole double throw (DPDT) switch is used to switch between the two control systems.

The advantage of this is I can run my collection of DC locomotives on my layout until they are all converted to DCC, and I can still run the few DCC equipped locomotives that I have.

[Randij]

Kentuckian I am on the same track as you! Can you elaborate on configurations and hiccups?
If not here, you can email me direct. You have what I want to do and I'm surprised it's not Ina white paper document somewhere. Randij "at"jillofalltrades "dot" ca

[Randij]

Yes, poor vinacular, I meant turn out, no switch.
Thank you

[Kentuckian]

You may want to purchase a Kalmbach book on DCC wiring.  Your local hobby shop should have it, or many online sources.  I will try to answer here so others can check my work.

This is the simplest answer:  buy a DPDT switch.  There will be six terminals on the back.  Connect wires from the two center terminals to the rails; one wire to one rail, the other wire to the other rail.  Using the switch will be easier if your can mount it to your layout some way, or in a small enclosure.  When I say "connect" I mean solder, although your DPDT switch may have screw connections.  Soldering is not that difficult after a little practice, just keep in mind which end of the soldering iron is hot.  (My father-in-law gave me my first chainsaw lesson years ago:  Don't cut your leg off.)

That leaves four posts on the switch.  On two posts on one end of the switch, connect your DC power pack.  The power pack should have two connections that are marked "variable DC" or "track" or something like that.

The two remaining posts on the other end of the switch are for your DCC system.  Whatever wires are supposed to go to the tracks, connect to these two posts.

Power up the DC power pack with a DC locomotive on the track, and the DCC off or unplugged. If it doesn't move, flip the switch the other way.  If it still doesn't move, then recheck everything.  Label which side of the switch is DC, and which is DCC. 

My recommendation is to know which kind of locomotives are on the track before you turn anything on.  I have not damaged anything yet by having the wrong locomotive connected to the wrong control system - which I have inadvertently done - but I have read on here that damage is possible.

[peteski]

My recommendation is to know which kind of locomotives are on the track before you turn anything on.  I have not damaged anything yet by having the wrong locomotive connected to the wrong control system - which I have inadvertently done - but I have read on here that damage is possible.

I think that this potential of damage is greatly exaggerated (for most models).  Leaving a DCC-decoder equipped loco on DC track is perfectly safe.   They will actually work like DC locos (assuming that the analog mode is enabled in the decoder).

Leaving DC loco on DCC-powered track will eventually cause the motor to warm up slightly. But it should not cause damage. I suppose if the model was left on the track for hours it might get warm enough to soften the loco's shell.  Only potential problem would be a DC loco with a coreless motor left on DCC-powered track. The motor could overheat sooner than a standard motor.  But how many DC corless motor equipped locos does one own?

But is is still a good advice (to be safe) to take DC locos off the track when running on DCC.

[djconway]

Good wiring is good wiring. 

By blocking your layout for dual DC cab control you will also create a DCC trouble shooting tool, the ability to turn off or on any/all blocks to find a short.  I have not had any of the "melt downs" in 18 years of DCC.  I have had a few pieces of equipment (old) that have shorted on switches, this has been fixed by one of 3 methods 1- replace the offending wheel set 2- a little finger nail polish on the rails going into the frog and 3- replace the switch.

My first DCC layout was a conversion of my then existing layout by removing one cab and substituting a DCC system - throw all the toggles to the DCC side and I was running DCC in about 5 minutes.

[Randij]

Nail polish instated turn puts sounds great!

[mmagliaro]

...

But how many DC corless motor equipped locos does one own?
...

... That would be 90% of what I own   

But seriously, yes, I agree with the rest of your post.