WoooHooo! Kumata Silverliner in brass! Finally

[peteski]

Interesting way of handling the the herald.

I suspect that if you took some 0.005" styrene and painted it with white paint, the decal would have stuck (especially if setting solution was used and allowed to dry thoroughly).   But what you have works just fine.  Just remember never to get the model wet (I sometimes wash my models - I know, some might find that odd). 

[u18b]

Of course, the best solution would be if someone made etched keystones.

[tappertrainman]

Of course, the best solution would be if someone made etched keystones.

What's the saying?

Hey ednadolski, got a minute?   

James

[SP-Wolf]

Of course, the best solution would be if someone made etched keystones.

Perhaps like this:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Gold-Medal-Models-N-Steam-Locomotive-Detailin-p/gmm-160-42.htm

Just a thought. Not sure, if they are the correct size.

Wolf

[pjm20]

Of course, the best solution would be if someone made etched keystones.

You could ask Alkem Scale Models. They already released etched PRR Keystone number boards, all it would take would be to replace the numbers with the PRR's logo.

[peteski]

Of course, the best solution would be if someone made etched keystones.

Funny, I was going to say that but I figured I would leave it alone.  I am capable of etching things at home, but I don't model PRR or want to start yet another project.

Were you thinking of just etching a flat metal plate in a shape of the keystone than apply the decal, or were you thinking of relief-etching the logo, then painting it red and white?

[Blazeman]

#269 up to the very end still had  PENNSYLVANIA above the windows. Crews referred to them as tin cans.

[u18b]

Perhaps like this:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Gold-Medal-Models-N-Steam-Locomotive-Detailin-p/gmm-160-42.htm

Just a thought. Not sure, if they are the correct size.

Wolf

That is a great idea.
But the problem is that it would take 2 sheets (over 30 bucks with shipping).  Yikes.

[u18b]

Were you thinking of just etching a flat metal plate in a shape of the keystone than apply the decal, or were you thinking of relief-etching the logo, then painting it red and white?

Yes, that's exactly what I was thinking.  Flat, and then add a decal to it.

[SP-Wolf]

That is a great idea.
But the problem is that it would take 2 sheets (over 30 bucks with shipping).  Yikes.

Or-- if you knew someone that has 2 sheets-- with absolutely no use for the keystones. HMMMMMM- hint hint!!

Wolf

[u18b]

You could ask Alkem Scale Models. They already released etched PRR Keystone number boards, all it would take would be to replace the numbers with the PRR's logo.

I may give this a try.

http://static.squarespace.com/static/51636a48e4b09de45a3137d7/t/516cc4c0e4b0bb1f91d373e3/1366082754112/PRRLocoNumBrdsBig.jpg

They are a lot cheaper than the Gold Medal.  The only problem is that Gold Medal has two sizes, while this has only one.

Does anybody actually have both these Alken keystones and the Microscale decals.

I could always sand them down and/or place the decal on the back- which would be smooth.

[u18b]

Wolf.

PM sent.

[u18b]

Since I had to take the shell off again anyway, I made some changes.

I added two lead weights.

Also, I added pieces of thrust washers.
The purpose of that was so the shell could be lifted a bit.



By doing this, it made the couplers line up better.



When you look at prototype photos, you can very often see an engineer.
So I added one.



It took a LOT of searching, but I finally found some white numbers that would work.
BN decals, 160-549.



Yep, looks better.


I installed the man back in some previous photos.  But I felt he was too high.
Photos I saw showed engineer's head equal middle of window.

[FlyGuyB]

As usual Ron, this is a great thread. You're such a stickler for details I thought you were gonna add eyebrows and a mustache to the engineer. (Not trying to give you any hints, LOL)

[E44A]

Thanks for the tutorial on the headlights!

I will make them for my IHP 3D printed Silverliner.
It is nowhere as shiny as the brass body, but a coat of Alclad II is close enough.