WNY&P C-630M (ex-CP Rail)

[mandealco]

Hi
Here is the latest update on my Western New York & Pennsylvania C-630M, just a couple of minor things to tidy up before she's off to the paint booth.





Just the ongoing truck issues to resolve. May yet use the set of Briggs Dofasco trucks I have.

There seems to be an issue with one of the fuel fillers, it's on it's side, not sure how that happened.

Now just looking at paint choices.  I have some Wisconsin Central red which is close to what I need.  Any better suggestions?

Cheers
Steve

[randgust]

I used Badger DM&IR red on mine, and although the finish is great I think it's too dark; too much like a Tuscan red.

[reinhardtjh]

Gorgeous!  Great work Steve!

[R L Smith]

Wow, nice work!

I recall that MR did a project railroad about 15 years ago based on the A&M. IIRC, one of the articles in the series had to do with painting locomotives in the A&M scheme; I'll see if I still have it. That would provide a good starting point.

50% chance I still have it.

5% chance I can actually find it...

Perhaps someone who has the MR DVD set can call it up quickly for you.

Ron

[lock4244]

She's a real beauty, Steve. I love the job you did on the intakes behind the cab... nailed the look of them after CP made their modifications.

[mandealco]

Thanks for the tips and kind words.  Ron, thanks for the MR article idea, I have that somewhere, so will look in there.
Cheers
Steve

Edit:  Thanks Ron, found the article, MR Aug-99.  The article was by Mark Watson, and the paint was Modelflex DM&IR red, I think that's the same as the Badger paint Randy used.  The WC red I have looks a shade lighter than Tuscan, so may work, a lighter undercoat may also help.

[randgust]

I got the A&M decal set just for some misc. pieces that didn't get printed, and the Micro-Scale instructions recommended DMIR red, I got it, and used it, but that's rather typical of Micro-Scale in imprecise paint recommendations that are close but not quite close enough.

I think all I used from this set was the numbers and the yellow striping:
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=60-886&Product_Count=&Category_Code=

As you can see, the repaint to WNYP was pretty darn minimal and you've got those decals now.  Everything else is A&M.

[mandealco]

One item that's missing from both decal sets are the yellow side sill dashes.  They are on, not just the LAL/BH/WNYP family of motive power, but also the M&E, so does anyone know where I can get these?   EDIT:  Found some. Jim has these at Highball Graphics.
Cheers
Steve
(I see an N-scale C-415 evolving in my head!!!)

[BCR 570]

Nice work - always a joy to see another big ALCO. 

Tim

[mandealco]

Hi
Finally another update.  Not to far away from decals.

Cheers
Steve

[reinhardtjh]

That's a pretty good red match.  Once it's given a semi-gloss like the prototype it should be spot-on.

One item that's missing from both decal sets are the yellow side sill dashes.  They are on, not just the LAL/BH/WNYP family of motive power, but also the M&E, so does anyone know where I can get these?   EDIT:  Found some. Jim has these at Highball Graphics.
Cheers
Steve
(I see an N-scale C-415 evolving in my head!!!)

Which Highball Graphics set did you find?  I don't see any M&E or WNY&P sets.  Did you just scan through and find some close?

[central.vermont]

That's a pretty good red match.  Once it's given a semi-gloss like the prototype it should be spot-on.

Which Highball Graphics set did you find?  I don't see any M&E or WNY&P sets.  Did you just scan through and find some close?

This would be the set he is talking about John.
http://www.mgdecals.com/ADN-14.htm

Jon

[mandealco]

Hi
Yes Jon, that's the set for the frame stripes.  The actual WNYP set is done by Dan's Resin Casting in upstate NY.  I started the decals this evening and it's always amazing what a huge difference a couple of decals make. 

The red looks better now that some of the yellow is on.  My method to make a lighter red than the 'out of the bottle' WC red, was to use a white undercoat.  Seemed like a good plan, but it became hard to match the reds on the various shell components as the coats were added.  I think it would have been better to start with a regular light grey undercoat and add some white to the top coat to slightly age and lighten the paint. 
Cheers
Steve