Willmodels Crown Vic?

[DKS]

I too am looking at using 0402's to make a light bar. I plan on using the Unmarked Police Flasher from Ngineering.

I've almost finished a modern ski rack using 0402's. To drive them, I have a bunch of old blinky badges, some of which only have two lights but will drive up to five. I plan on installing it on a Kato former taxi, which looks like a good generic cruiser--same one I added grain-of-rice bulbs to back in 1998:

[Ike the BN Freak]

The rear end of that PT cruiser looks off, like the hatch is at too much of an angle.

Or is it just the angle of the pic?

[Ian MacMillan]

I've almost finished a modern ski rack using 0402's. To drive them, I have a bunch of old blinky badges, some of which only have two lights but will drive up to five. I plan on installing it on a Kato former taxi, which looks like a good generic cruiser--same one I added grain-of-rice bulbs to back in 1998:

I have a handful of those as well. I try and grab em from store displays when they let me. Good idea as I had been holding onto mine for height warnings.


God I miss that version of the WRN.

[DKS]

God I miss that version of the WRN.

You and me both.

[Ian MacMillan]

I got my CV earlier in the week and like everyone said I would be, I am impressed. I will definitely be buying more of these.  This one will be getting decked out in NHSP Green and Military Pink.

[jimmo]

The rear end of that PT cruiser looks off, like the hatch is at too much of an angle.

Or is it just the angle of the pic?

Take a look at the other images of the PT Cruiser in our ebay store. I always thought it looked pretty accurate. Have there been any changes over the years?

[GimpLizard]

I have a number of Jim's vehicles. (As well as a couple of structures.) I don't know how he does it, but I'm extremely impressed with the detail & accuracy. Now if I could just get him to do some early-to-mid 60's models. Sedans & wagn, particularly. Whatya say, Jimmo?

[jimmo]

I'm currently working on a couple of truck projects but I do have some mid-sixties vehicles coming up.

[ns737]

how about century class freightliner trucks

[delamaize]

I'll echo everyone else, I have 2 of his humvees for a project I am working on, and they are absoutly awesome.

[Pennsy]

I second everyone else. I've got a number of Jim's vehichles and one of his buildings too. These are really nice castings. And I love the PT Cruiser, matches my prototype in the drive

Jiim

[peteski]

I also ordered (and received) several of Will's models (and wheels) last week.  They are nice castings.  Some look like hydro-shrunk castings of larger models (not that I care or mind).  I love the step-van -- it'll become a FedEx van. I wonder if that one was also a shrunken down model or was it scratchbuild?  What I would really like to do is to hollow out the inside and re-cast them with open windows (as I think that clear-cast bodies will not give good enough see-through effect).  This is for my own use of course.

[GimpLizard]

I'm currently working on a couple of truck projects but I do have some mid-sixties vehicles coming up.

Okay Jim, you got my heart a racin'. Spill the beans. What mid 60's vehicles am I gonna be (happily) shelling out my hard earned cash for?

[jimmo]

I also ordered (and received) several of Will's models (and wheels) last week.  They are nice castings.  Some look like hydro-shrunk castings of larger models (not that I care or mind).  I love the step-van -- it'll become a FedEx van. I wonder if that one was also a shrunken down model or was it scratchbuild?  What I would really like to do is to hollow out the inside and re-cast them with open windows (as I think that clear-cast bodies will not give good enough see-through effect).  This is for my own use of course.

Hollowing out a cast body is the hard (and messy) way. If you are planning on casting the body to make your own duplicates, just cast it like it is and take one of the resin castings and make a plug master out of that by sanding down the sides until you get to the level of the windows. Also take down the roof to the thickness you want the top of the casting to be. Basically you want it to fit inside the van body and be the void. Make another mold out of this plug master, when cured pour a rubber casting for your plug. Important step here is to use a rubber-rubber mold release or you'll just be filling in your mold. After your plug is cured, you will need to attach a piece of rubber to the bottom so it will suspend down into your van mold. This can be cut from an old mold or cast as a custom made piece. It also will act as a handle for removing it from the cured resin. You can pour part of the resin for your van body first then lower the plug into it or (depending how you made the plug), pour it after positioning it inside the mold. You will most likely have a thin film of resin to trim from your windows after you cast it but this is easily done.

You may just want to do just the area where the windows are and leave the rest of the body solid, depending on whether you plan on have open doors in the back or not.