Kato SD40 and Atlas SD35 modeling to sell

[6axlepwr]

Mike,

Definitley a great candidate. I like the CGW and the nose light would be easy to do. I could add the different color LEDs into it. Thanks for the suggestion. At this time, CGW is the winner. Plus the Kato model is more a CGW protoype than the WM.

Brian

[kalbert]

I think people that spend big money on custom work decide what they want and find someone to build it rather than seek out one that is already done. This would be even more true for rare or one off units. You might be ahead to just sell them as is. By the time you factor in your time, any details you add on, a decoder, etc.... You're probably right $400 is what you'd have to ask for them to make it worth while. Honestly though,  I don't' think people appreciate the time and skill and cost of a detailed custom loco. I'm guilty of it too, when I see "Custom Paint" I think "Crappy running older loco with a foobie paint job (or one that is specific to a time and place no one other than the builder cares about) and some generic detail parts to try and make it desirable to someone else".

I think if you want to do some custom work just to sell it, pick something common and keep it simple. Maximize your profit. Choose something there were ALOT of, and don't get nuts on lots of tiny details. Focus on flawless paint and bodywork, replace couplers, go light on the weathering, and skip the detail parts other than MU hoses, sun shades, or horns. Well executed will get more attention than something laden with every detail part available. If you want to make them something you can't just buy do some high hood SD-40's in NW or SOU. Can't go wrong patched stuff either, MP, SP, UP. Or since Kato doesn't do much east of the Mississippi, I'd think you can't go wrong with some PRR, PC, or Conrail in various stages of decay. Any road that had lots of SD-40's that existed through more than one paint scheme or owner would be a good choice I think.

[6axlepwr]

Kyle,

Your point is very well taken. Your approach to the question and your reply is in many ways dead on. I truley believe you are correct when you say most buyers do nto appreciate the efforts going inot a custom model. For many folks who run trains, detail is a mute point and is gone when viewing the whole picture. That is my one downfall when I get wrapped up in modeling. I view each model as the individul and do nto look at the whole picture when running a consist. A factory model painted well in a consist looks every bit as good as a full blown detail model when it is going by.

Thanks. Your reply brings me back to reality and a good dose of what the market will bear. Great reply Kyle. Thanks.

I am not looking to make a business out of this. Just sell some models that I do not need anymore. Generate cash for other projects.

Brian

[ednadolski]

Hi Brian, hope you'll be posting the finished models, love to see 'em!   

Ed

[6axlepwr]

So I started the SD35 tonight. I put photo etched steps in. I am trying to decide if I am going to do it as a Penn Central unit or Western Maryland. I am thinking WM because I like the look of units with plows and the WM black scheme is very sharp and classic looking. The piece of photo etch you see on the plateform is a footboard. If I make it PC, then these will be installed on the pilots. Or I could do it as a CR PC paintout. That would be cool!

A while back I designed a bunch of test photo etch parts. So I figured I would use what I have and play. 



I have these step sets for the Kato SD40/45 as well. The ones for the SD35 were actually desogned to fit the Atlas GP38/40. They just so happen to fit the SD35 as well. These steps took me about two hours or so to install. Cut the kick plat eout of the step well and then cut the centers out leaving a ledge to glue the steps on.

Next up will be to work on the pilots. Coupler lift bars and some MU hoses

Brian

[6axlepwr]

If it is going to be Penn Central, it is going to be this one.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/pc/pc6025lra.jpg

Start of Conrail era and I really like the different leading radiator fan. I have an SD24 shell I can cut the fan from and put it on. No foot boards though, but that is OK because that fan is just so cool!

Brian

[wm3798]

I don't have my references at my fingertips, but the "special box" you speak of is a flange oiler, and I'm pretty sure they were first used on the SD35's, so you'll need to make some for that engine, too.  Judging by the photos, the first order of black SD40's from 1968 had similar oilers, while the later order had the smaller ones.  Because the WM was rapped on the knuckles by C&O/B&O and force-fed the B&O's numbering system, the 1968 order actually had higher road numbers than the later order.  The later order was also the first batch of engines that came from the factory in red/white/black.  None of the black SD40s ever received that scheme, although all of them were renumbered into the 7500 series in 1973 to conform with the combined Chessie roster.  Hope this helps.



I used a chunk of battery box from a GP20 shell I had laying around to make mine.

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/wm7573.jpg
http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/wm7433.jpg

http://www.railpictures.net/images/d1/3/1/6/2316.1097612640.jpg

Here's a view of the smaller box.   Not sure if that's the same apparatus, but it looks like it could be easily represented with a couple of bits of styrene

And yes, at $400, you may as well build yourself a layout to run them on.  Not many people are dropping that kind of coin these days.  In fact, I'd say cut your losses, paint the shells, add the major details like sunshades, plows and the oilers, then let fly with them.  Sadly, people don't pay for all that time you spend putting on grabs and nifty little brass bits.  At N trak speed, no one sees them anyway.

Lee

[6axlepwr]

Thanks Lee for the input and explanation of the box.

Also, teh small box you are talking about on the SD40 is not an oiler. That box is an ECAF box (Electrical Cabinet Air Filter box). It is the first version of the ECAF boxes.

Brian

[jmlaboda - RIP]

"Normally I'd be right with you Dave, but Brian's work is an exception."

Agreed!!!  Brian's modeling is the work of a legend!!!  I remember seeing his N-scale several years back and few could rival his talent.

Don't forget hoods by Mark 4 Designs... they could help to fill out custom work, especially locos not readily available.

[ednadolski]

Next up will be to work on the pilots. Coupler lift bars and some MU hoses

Brian, are you going to be doing wire lift bars?

Ed

[6axlepwr]

On the SD35, yes. They are done now. Yesterday I finished the coupler lift bars, pilot grab and MU hoses.

I used the BLMA lift bar brackets, but made my own lift bars from brass wire. The BLMA bar is to wide. The pilot grab is made form 0.008" brass wire and the MU hoses are from some old stock of Sunrise Enterprises hoses.

Today I grit blasted the hand rails and air brushed them yellow along with the step edges and pilot grab iron. I also cut the 48" diameter fan from an SD24 shell, I removed the the leading 48" fan from the SD35 and replaced it with the SD24 fan. Flawless executing. Looks like it was molded on the shell. I also added the correct speed recorder. I had the disk photo etched and the sending unit i had 3d printed. Looks pretty cool. I just need to add some fine wire to it. All that is left on the SD35 is to add all the lift rings and wire grabs. I also had some sinclair antenna's photo etched. I need to add one of those. These antenna's are a three piece kit to give it a 3D look. There is a base, the blade and the top. They go together real nicely. A bit tedious, but when done they look good. Once that is all done I can paint and decal it. Should be about two weeks.

The SD40's are not going to get the detailing efforts. Just what makes it the representation of the model being built. No wire grab irons and no lift rings. The first SD40 is going to be an IC non dynamic brake unit. I milled off the DB blisters and cleaned the top off. It is now a non-DB unit. I added an Atlas plow and will put JnJ trains side hood mounted bell on it. I also added teh overlap seam down the center of the non-DB hatch. Only thing left before painting is to build the brake stand for the rear of the long hood. I already filled the brake cavity in the nose.

The other two SD40's are going to be ICG ex-GM&O units. Just a good paint job for them. The three SD40's are going to be for era 1975ish. Prior to all the FRA rules stuff. I think the three unit set will look pretty good and may be good sellers.

For the SD40's I am going with Kyle's suggestion of just the bare miniumum for detailing that makes them represent what they are and then a good crisp paint and decaling job. The SD35 is probably going to be my last super detailing job. My eye sight is really going bad now for modeling. Just want to prove to myself one last time that I can do it.

I have three more SD40's to paint and a U30C. I was thinking of maybe doing those as a four unit Detroit Edison set. Although I would need to get some high mount brake cylinder truck sets for the SD40's. I have four SD45's I do not know what to do with. I was thinking at least one or two could be BN sublettered C&S with the SD9 truck frames and paint them with the whale tail. Maybe another one as an MPI unit and then one as a CNW non DB unit.

Brian

[kalbert]

A factory model painted well in a consist looks every bit as good as a full blown detail model when it is going by.

It all looks the same at 45 mph! 

On the other hand though, I went back and looked at some of your other work and it's pretty outstanding. If these turn out that good and you connect with the right buyer the sky is the limit probably!