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I've always used CorelDraw to output to the Alps. I always keep a couple of versions of software, just in case there are kinks in the new version. CDR8 was very stable and works for my primary needs: etching patterns and printing artwork. But I also have CDR12 and use both interchangeably.You can access all physical ports of the host hardware through VMWare. Connecting the Alps to the parallel port isn't an issue.
I have old printers as well, and they can be picked up on the secondary market for pennies on the dollar as well. It would be simple and inexpensive to dedicate one to white toner use, and make it a network device if necessary.
I might hit you up for a copy of your CDR3 CD. CDR8 opens legacy CDR files, but only so far back. I've used the product since CDR2 and could use the old copy to open some archived artwork.
I have Corel 7 and X4. Corel 7 (Corel Suite) will open back to CDR 5.0 and X4 will open back to CDR7 files. Is there a way to convert from Corel 3 forward? It looks like Corel 5 might have used a new file format not compatible with the older versions.
Has anyone talked to HP about making white?
I was on the road today at a client, but I finished the VMWare/NT4 installation when I got home. Installed SP6 so that I could install VMWare Tools (and get a proper screen resolution), then added all my railroad fonts. Installed the virtual parallel port and linked it to the physical port. Opened the graphic in CDR8 and printed to the Alps. It paused about ten seconds between each printhead pass, but the artwork printed perfectly with solidly opaque white. I'd forgotten how good the white looked when printed through the NT driver. So my problems are solved for now regarding white, silver or gold decals.
Pete, I did try printing from Adobe Acrobat a few days ago, same issues.
I'm not concerned about color graphics over a printed white background, since it's not as if an Alps ever did opaque color lettering well (such as yellow print on a brown boxcar). If I need color graphics, I just print them on the color laser. More durable and higher resolution.
I'll take you up on the CDR3 at some point. I would just install it on the virtual NT workstation, which mimics the hardware I used for it back in the day. You can install multiple versions of CDR on a computer, so that isn't an issue.
The pauses happen for several reasons. In my experience they will happen if the ambient temperature is above certain threshold (the printer cools the head down after each band printed). They also happen when using VPhoto mode. The pause might also be dependant on the version of the driver used (I have not verified this).
I'm confused about the varying quality of white and metallic printouts you mention. Regardless of the driver (or operating system) used, the quality should be the same. I have used many versions of Alps drivers and I have not noticed any difference in print quality. As long as the artwork is solid black, the white or metallic ink coverage should be solid. Only when the artwork is not solid black, you might start seeing the white and metallic inks printed as 85 lpi halftones (no longer solid ink coverage). Often your artwork is black but somewhere between your design and the printer, something gets modified (usually by using color profiles in your graphic program for example) where the "black" seen by the printer is not solid black.Ok, I just wanted to make sure you tried printing from another application. :)You seem to be a seasoned Alps user but the above statement makes me think that you don't realize that in order to get opaque colors from Alps you need to undercoat them with white ink first. That produces opaque decals (just like professionally printed decals) where even light colors show up well against dark model's surface. Alps CYM inks are translucent (just like inks or toners in inkjet or laser printers). That is why the white undercoat is needed to make the colors opaque.If a single layer of white undercoat is not enough, you can print multiple layers of white (each adds opacity), then print the color image on top. Personally in majority of decals I find that single layer of white undercoat is perfectly acceptable (even when the decal is applied to a dark colored surface).