Author Topic: Locomotive stalling on switch  (Read 2219 times)

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unittrain

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Locomotive stalling on switch
« on: August 11, 2011, 09:42:19 AM »
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I have been test running my layout as I finish wiring and getting the layout going module by module and I'm having an issue
with my Atlas GP35 stalling on my switch while my Kato U30C goes over it without a problem. Anyone know what might be the cause?

davefoxx

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Re: Locomotive stalling on switch
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2011, 09:48:13 AM »
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I don't know what track you're using, but from your description, it's likely dirty wheels and an unpowered frog.  This is what led me to start powering the frogs on my turnouts.

Hope this helps,
DFF

A Proud HOer
BUY ALL THE TRAINS!
Still General Counsel to the Laurel Valley Ry.

Erik W

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Re: Locomotive stalling on switch
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2011, 09:56:09 AM »
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I had the same issues with my two axle truck locos on Atlas code 55.  My solution was the same as Dave's.  I powered all the frogs.

Erik

unittrain

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Re: Locomotive stalling on switch
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2011, 10:13:27 AM »
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What is the best way to go about powering the frog cause my track is already down and ballasted?
I'm using Atlas code 55 #10 turnouts. Thanks for the help.

M.C. Fujiwara

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Re: Locomotive stalling on switch
« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2011, 10:54:36 AM »
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Atlas C55 turnouts have a bunch of issues: some have slighly raised frogs, the bumps along the tie plates hit the wheel flanges, the ugly swivel, etc.
(Ok, maybe the "ugly swivel" is my issue: I'm a handlayer ;) )

But before you rip out the turnout:

Your wheels need to be in perfect gauge.

File down the bumps on the flange-side of the rails:



Here you can see I've filed down the bumps (yellow circles), while leaving the non-flange side alone (red circles).

Make sure the points sit firm on the throwbar (might need a drop of CA), and the throwbar isn't pushed up, causing the point tips to stick out over the rails

Check the frog to see if it's slightly too high (the metal web between frog point & point rails).

If you want to power them, there should be a little ring sticking out mid-way on one side of the turnout.
Just drill a hole down and wire it up to the tortise or connect your rod to the toggle or ?

You can also attach thin wires from each point rail to the "dead" frog rails (bridging the swivel), but that relys on point contact to power the frog.

Really, most Atlas C55 problems are solved by dealing with the bumps, the raised frog, and wheel gauge.

Hope this helps.
M.C. Fujiwara

MichaelWinicki

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Re: Locomotive stalling on switch
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2011, 11:52:44 AM »
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Really, most Atlas C55 problems are solved by dealing with the bumps, the raised frog, and wheel gauge.


I'd move "Wheel gauge" into the first position.

I have dozens of unpowered frogs on my layout and nary a "stall" or flickering light.

Why?

Because I went through and regauged every locomotive in my fleet.  Virtually every manufacturer sends out new locos that are too narrow.   

Less than a minute with each loco produced trouble-free operation without having to make my layout wiring more complicated by powering the frogs. 

wm3798

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Re: Locomotive stalling on switch
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2011, 11:56:14 AM »
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Okay, so you're using #10's... Right off you're going to be challenging the 4 axle engine because the frog is long enough that the entire truck is going to be on the dead bit.  That said, if both trucks are clean and making solid pick up, you should still be able to glide through relying on the truck that's not on the frog.  However, this is contingent on the points making solid contact, and the bridge rail between the point pivot and the frog being in full contact.

There are bridge contacts embedded in the ties that connect the main stock rails to this section, but it's only a friction contact.  When you flow the glue into the ballast, it's possible that some of it will wick into the contact surface, as well as into the point hinges, reducing the flow of electricity, or even breaking the flow at those critical locations.  The dead frog only compounds this problem.

So, again, before you start tearing things up, check the following:

Thoroughly clean your locomotive trucks, including the wheel surfaces, the contact axle points, and the bronze cups that the points ride in.  Make sure both trucks are getting full pick up to the motor.
Take a 12 v. light, or a locomotive light board if you have one laying around, and solder contact points to it so it can contact the rails.  Use this to check for a complete circuit between the stock rail and the diverging rails at every part of the turnout.  Start with the stock rails, then check the points, then the bridge rail, then the diverging rails past the frog.
This will ensure that power is getting everywhere it's supposed to go.

These two procedures will help you narrow down where the problem is.  It may be that there's nothing wrong with the turnout, and it's the loco that's dirty.

To power the frog, just get a small SPDT slide switch, and you can use that both to throw the switch and to power the frog.


A simple piano wire linkage is all you need.

Lee
Rockin' It Old School

Lee Weldon www.wmrywesternlines.net