Author Topic: FVM Milwaukee Road Box  (Read 10607 times)

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bbussey

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Re: FVM Milwaukee Road Box
« Reply #75 on: May 25, 2009, 12:33:52 PM »
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BTW, here's the FVM model lowered and fitted with body-mounts and FVM wheelsets.  Couldn't use the light brown coupler knuckles that came with the car so I used the brown 1015.


bb
Bryan Busséy
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Bridgeport & New London in N scale


up1950s

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Re: FVM Milwaukee Road Box
« Reply #76 on: May 25, 2009, 12:38:47 PM »
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Thats beautiful .


Richie Dost

central.vermont

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Re: FVM Milwaukee Road Box
« Reply #77 on: May 25, 2009, 04:21:04 PM »
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Very nice looking Brian!!!
So what did ya do to lower it?

Jon

bbussey

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Re: FVM Milwaukee Road Box
« Reply #78 on: May 25, 2009, 08:04:52 PM »
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So what did ya do to lower it?
It didn't take long, 30 minutes if that.  I filed down the bolsters until the wheel flanges barely cleared.  I don't have the exact measurement, but it was almost the height of the lower sill on the body.  The prototype body appears to sit just above the truck sideframes, so the goal was to get the body as low as possible without the flanges touching.  I snipped off the coupler pockets from the existing trucks so I could still use the trucks on the model.

Next, I drilled out and tapped the pre-marked dimple for MTL body-mounts and screwed a 1015 spacer in place at each end.  I scored the floor around the spacer to mark the section that would be removed.  The spacers were removed, and then the notches in the floor were cut and filed so that a 1015 box would slide in.  Not only would this move the coupler up to the correct height, but the notch would keep the box aligned.  I cut a section of .250x.100 styrene strip the length of the floor minus about .020" short at each end, so that it would clear the inside sleeve in the body, and cemented it to the floor top.  Back in went the 1015 spacers to mark where the new holes were to be drilled and tapped.  The top of the coupler box would be higher than the bottom of the ends on the body and I didn't want to compromise the ends in any way, so I trimmed 1015 spacers and coupler box tops to be even with the ends of the floor.  This left half of the spring exposed, but the bottom of the ends on the body perfectly covered and were flush with the bottom part of the coupler box.  Also used flathead screws rather than the standard MTL panhead screws in order to clear the outside axles.  Popped the floor into the body and added the trucks - everything looked and ran great!  Except ...

I forgot about how the floor weight was mounted in the car.  It now would not fit because I had a .250x.100 beam running down the center of the floor, so I weighed the steel piece (4 oz) and added four ounces of soapbox car weights to the top of the styrene beam.  The car was reassembled and put back on the track.

If I were to lower another - which I might when the double door cars are released - I would instead cut a short section of styrene sheet and place it at either end, cut off the part of the weight that overlapped and then glue the cut pieces to the center of the weight to maintain the four ounces.  Then the car could be reassembled without having to glue the weight to the floor.

bb
« Last Edit: May 25, 2009, 08:09:08 PM by bbussey »
Bryan Busséy
NHRHTA #2246
NSE #1117
www.bbussey.net
Bridgeport & New London in N scale


Roger Holmes

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Re: FVM Milwaukee Road Box
« Reply #79 on: May 27, 2009, 11:12:26 PM »
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Got my Chuckpack today from Feather River with my first four and nearly cried with joy.  As an N scale Milwaukee Road modeller since 1980 (N scale since 1970) these fill a huge void which wasn't adequately filled by either the Puget Summit or JnJ offerings that reside on my layout.  I have one of each upcoming number reserved with Chuck!

BTW Kalmbach's Garden Railways will publish my article on converting a G scale Aristo-Craft boxcar to a Milw Rd full rib car.  They bought the article but don't know yet when it will run.  The graphics are the same as on the FVM model.  Those of you who found fault with the end ribs on the FVM cars should NOT read my G scale article or I will be tarred and feathered.  My G scale cars are an easily recognized depiction of the Milwaukee ribsides and don't purport to be 100% accurate as they are meant to run outdoors, on the ground, viewed from above in sun, rain and snow.  Great fun ;D
Best regards,

Roger

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