Issue with GHQ PRR L1 boiler seating

[mike_lawyer]

Hi guys,

I have a PRR GHQ L1 conversion, and I am having an issue with the seating of the boiler.  There is a noticeable gap between the cylinder and the steam pipe on the left side of the locomotive.  The right side the steam pipe from the boiler sits on top of the cylinder.

I was wondering if anyone who has built these kits has run into the same problem.  Is there a fix?  Maybe some boiler material needs to be removed to fit over the Kato mikado chassis?

[mike_lawyer]

Pictures of the right side and front for perspective:

[randgust]

I'll have to go back and look at my construction photos, as that seems vaguely familiar. 

Whatever I did, I fixed it.   I think I may have Dremelled down the cylinder saddle instead of taking it out on the boiler, but I'm not sure. 

I 'think' I did before and after shots that I still have, but I think it may have now been nearly 20 years back....stand by.   At one time Jerry Britton had a page up on it, gone now.

[mike_lawyer]

I'll have to go back and look at my construction photos, as that seems vaguely familiar. 

Whatever I did, I fixed it.   I think I may have Dremelled down the cylinder saddle instead of taking it out on the boiler, but I'm not sure. 

I 'think' I did before and after shots that I still have, but I think it may have now been nearly 20 years back....stand by.   At one time Jerry Britton had a page up on it, gone now.

Thanks Randy, that would be awesome!  I am scratching my head trying to figure out the solution!

Mike

[PanAmShay]

Hi Mike,

I just had an issue with some GHQ logging equip models I'm building (my first time with their models).  I had an underfill issue on one part making it hard to assemble to the other parts, but called their number (612) 375-2693 and they were very friendly and will be sending a replacement.  It took a few tries to reach them as when I called a few times this morning the number rang for a while and then disconnected -- no voicemail option.  I tried later today and got through.  Wanted to share in case you're still struggling with fitment here and they might have suggestions.

[mmagliaro]

Try to make sure that it is really something in the chassis that is hanging it up.  From the photo you show of the front 3/4 of the engine, it looks to me like the whole GHQ boiler is twisted along its longitudinal axis.   i.e. if it were possibly to grab the nose of it in your right hand, and hold the cab in your left hand, and then twist the front clockwise with your right hand, it would straighten out and that steam pipe would site down on top of the cylinders.

If that is the problem, no amount of removing material inside will make it sit right.  Sitting on a flat surface by itself, do the two steam pipes come down to the same height, or is one up in the air?

I say all this because I have seen this on a GHQ boiler before.  It was either the PRR 2-10-0 I1 years ago, or the NP W5 that was like that.
I do remember doing something harsh by clamping it in a vise and then twisting it with vise grips wrapped in a rag, or some such thing, to actually twist it and straighten it out.

[mike_lawyer]

Max, the more I look at it, I think you are right that the boiler is slightly warped.  It's not anything I am going to worry about fixing, I don't want to risk damaging the boiler in any way.

[randgust]

Now that I look at it I think Max is right.   The top of the firebox looks flat.   The sand dome and stack appear to be leaning to the engineer side.   I dont think the cab is leaning.

Pewter does bend and yield but man, what an exercise to do that.  I've straightened a lot of castings myself, but wonder WHERE the warp is, or if it's gradual.   And how you would secure both ends (and from where) and HOW you would lever a twist in the entire casting without breaking something else. 

But this is also one of those things that will bug you forever, you'll never be able to look away from it, and now that you're aware of it turns into a real exercise in frustration, especially when the boiler is painted and the cab and details are attached.

I'd be tempted to drill holes laterally through it on the sides - one through the back where the twist needs to start, and one in the smokebox - thick enough steel rod (drill stock?) that won't snap, secure that rear end in an vise somehow, and then apply torque against the front rod as a lever.   Wouldn't directly clamp to the boiler and wouldn't damage detail.   Apply pressure to see it it willingly yields.   If it works, pull the rods back out and putty/paint over the holes.   Might work.   Lets see what others think.

[mike_lawyer]

Randy,

I have a second GHQ L-1, and it exhibits the same thing - the steam pipe on the left side does not meet the cylinder.  So this could be some sort of warping with the pewter.  I can't explain it any other way. 

I think I will just live with it, I'd rather not risk damaging the pewter boiler, especially after I have it painted.

[Lemosteam]

Been thinking on this a while and I recalled an image of mine below:



The two bosses on the chassis to the far right in the photo fit into pockets in the shell. If the shell is squeezed, the boss won’t enter the pocket.

Looks like the brakeman’s side is in, but not the engineers side as the underside of the walkway may be sitting on top of the boss. Maybe that is your issue?

[mmagliaro]

Not only is the boiler warped/twisted, but the walkways look bent up along that side.
In the photo below, I think it is okay by the white arrow, and starts twisting gradually as you move forward.
The walkways are quite bent up by the red arrows.  Compare the walkway right at the front to how the one looks on the other
side of the engine.  It's not just higher off the steam cylinder.  It is higher up in relation to the steam pipe attached to the side of the boiler itself.

Unfortunately, being painted, I don't think you could really fix this without stripping it, twisting it, bending/straightening the walkways,
and then repainting it.  I'm pretty sure when I straightened the one I had, I actually put the firebox in my panavise.  Since it's kind of square,
I could get a grip on it without the vise being too tight.  You might be able to put some small blocks of wood between the firebox
sides and the vise jaws, so you can get a grip on it without crushing the piping and other details that are already on there.

Then I wrapped a thin piece of cloth, like just one or two layers of t-shirt, around the boiler, clamped a Vise Grips around it, and twisted.  The cloth keeps the Vise Grip from making really bad jaw marks in the soft pewter, but it did make some that I had to file out afterward.  And I'll be honest.  I figured I had a 50/50 chance that the whole thing would just break or twist in half.  But I guess I got lucky.

[mike_lawyer]

Max,

I probably should have straightened out the walkways before I painted it!  I guess I didn't notice it at the time.  From the 18 inch rule, I don't notice it much.  I think I will keep it as is, and keep it in mind if I build another one someday.

[mmagliaro]

Max,

I probably should have straightened out the walkways before I painted it!  I guess I didn't notice it at the time.  From the 18 inch rule, I don't notice it much.  I think I will keep it as is, and keep it in mind if I build another one someday.

I think you are probably right on this one.  Just enjoy it and don't worry about it.