My First N Scale Complete (failure) Top-Bottom Loco Weathering

[chuck geiger]

Chuck, I always enjoy seeing your work. As you know not everything turns out right or perfect the first or 100th time.  I am a big fan of DansRailroad2011.  It's a great resource and as everybody else who has ever weathered a model.  You can see progress  with every model.  Thanks for posting.  In your modelling,  I see things that I want to try and attempt what I wouldn't have done on my own.

Thanks Spades

[chessie system fan]

Every model is a learning experience.  I have B&O units to weather in my future, so it's educational for me to see your approach.

Even a fine airbrush mix of Tamyiya Flat White with mostly IPA produces specks on the lowest nozzle setting.

I've been thinking about this and have a clarifying question, since this is different than my experience.  When you used your airbrush, did you start spraying directly on the model, or did you start spraying to the left or right of the model for a second before drifting onto the model? That first split second can cause splattering.

[chuck geiger]

Great point. Just a shot or two on the paper mat. Plus, it was at the bottom of the barrel, an older Tamyiya Flat White and IPA. I've been watching weathering videos on fading in HO, and I actually see dust dots.

[Jesse6669]

It has to be realllllly, reallllly thin.  I mean just dip the tip of the paintbrush in white, then at least 10 drops of thinner to the cup (I'll use mostly X20A.. but I usually mix in some water, some wetting agent, and also some clear flat).

Here's a Z scale GP30 I just faded today:

Before: [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

After: [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

This took at least 10 passes with the airbrush, with a very thin (1/8"-1/4") pattern).  And remember this is Z, so about 1/3 smaller than N.  It still needs some washes, chalks on the roof for soot, and touch-ups. 

[chuck geiger]

super awesome

[chessie system fan]

My fades are more like a few drops of paint in about 10 ml of IPA. I also added a few drops of buff to make it a more cream color dirty white. And I shake the bottle before adding it to the airbrush cup so that the paint doesn't settle.

[Jesse6669]

My fades are more like a few drops of paint in about 10 ml of IPA. I also added a few drops of buff to make it a more cream color dirty white. And I shake the bottle before adding it to the airbrush cup so that the paint doesn't settle.

Yep, similarly I will first do a fade with white wash, but then once that's to my liking just add a tiny bit of buff/earth color to remaining wash in the paint cup and do the lower areas near the trucks and roof.  You can see that on the GP30--you may notice a slight brownish by the battery box.

One other thing I forgot to mention is your paint flow needs to be very light and layers very thin on your passes because the wash will puddle and run easily if you apply too much.  I barely pull back on the needle when airbrushing.  I have an old boxcar I use to practice and get the feel for the right amount before going for the main event.  I also think the clear flat drop or two added helps a bit to "hold" the layer of wash and let it dry.

Finally--less is more;  It's better to have to do 10 layers with very thin washes than try get it all done in one or two passes.  It's very easy to over-do.   

[chuck geiger]

Call this a wrap!

[N Scale Train Boy]

Looks like a dusty desert unit to me! Nice work Chuck!