Need some tips on re-assembling drivers and rods on UP 844 FEF-3

[Bart1701]

I had to replace a traction tire on my UP 844. Had to remove the crank pins and rods on each side to remove the driver/axle. In the process, I managed to pop the rods off of most of the other rods. 

Does anybody have tips on how to get everything properly reassembled? (I have successfully reinstalled crank pins , so I think I've got that down!)

Are the non-geared axles all identical?

I assume that the holes on the wheels for the crank pins should all be in line with each other horizontally. When the rods on one side are down (towards the bottom), I assume that the rods on the other sides should be up (towards the top).

All advice and hints will be greatly appreciated!

Bart

[Hedron]

I think you're going to get lots of tips here, but I'll just start things by saying the two sides are 1/4 turn different from each other, not 1/2 turn. That is to say, one side should be at 12 o'clock while the other is at 3:00.

[Bart1701]

I think you're going to get lots of tips here, but I'll just start things by saying the two sides are 1/4 turn different from each other, not 1/2 turn. That is to say, one side should be at 12 o'clock while the other is at 3:00.

Thanks! Good info to know!

Bart

[mkearns]

Kato FEF? If so, parts diagram suggests it only has one geared driver. That will make your job a little easier since the remaining drivers should free to find their positions relative to the others via the rods and reduce the chance of a gear/rod bind. I really hate trying to quarter multi-geared drivers on steam locomotives.

[peteski]

I don't understand why the drivers have to be quartered in the first place.  That would seem to indicate that they were pulled off the axles.

That was not needed to replace the traction tire.  All that should be needed to remove the traction tire was the crank pins only on the driver with the tire. That would allow the siderods to be pushed out of the way, traction tire could then be replaced and the siderods and crank pins pushed  back in. Done!

[Bart1701]

I don't understand why the drivers have to be quartered in the first place.  That would seem to indicate that they were pulled off the axles.

That was not needed to replace the traction tire.  All that should be needed to remove the traction tire was the crank pins only on the driver with the tire. That would allow the siderods to be pushed out of the way, traction tire could then be replaced and the siderods and crank pins pushed  back in. Done!

Drivers were never pulled off the axles, so that was never an issue for me.

Your approach to replacing the traction tire was where I was initially headed, but I couldn't get the tire onto the driver while it was still in the frame. In the process of attempting to get the tire on while the axle was in place is when some of the other crank pins and rods worked their way loose. I finally ended up removing the required crank pins on each side so I could get the geared axle out so I could get the tire on.

I was just hoping to get any hints on how to get it all back together. Wasn't sure if there was an optimal order of putting it back together or any secret tricks to getting it done.

Bart

[peteski]

Ok, in your initial question you seemed to be unsure of the position of the crank pins on each side. If you didn't pull the drivers of their axles then the crankpin positions will be correct to reinstall the siderods on one side, and then the other side will be aligned by default.

The driver locations can be identified by the size of the counterweights.  Number 1 (front) driver has the smallest counterweight, number 2 (geared one) has the largest one.  Number 3 has a medium size counterweight and number 4 should be the same as number 1.

While still out of the model you can start reinstalling the siderods and crankpins. The narrowest siderods go between driver 1 and 2 on the front and 3 and 4 on the rear. The wider siderod goes between driver 2 and 3.   The photos and exploded view diagram at https://katousa.com/n-fef/ should be helpful.

With all the siderods attached on both sides, the assembly will be a bit unwieldy, but you should be able to start seating the drivers in the slots in the chassis, starting with #1 driver. Make sure the bearings are properly seated in the frame.  The siderods will keep things aligned. Once all the drivers are seated, reinstall the bottom frame cover.

I have not dealt with that model for several years, so I'm going from memory, but I believe that is the best way to reassemble things.