Santa Fe 0-6-0

[Slim Rail Mike]

Hmmm!   These B’mann 0-6-0 look to me that the cab is too far aft, and that they are hanging in air. I hadn’t thought as to why. Chalked it up to it also being their 2-6-2. The missing firebox /ash pan that would fill the void, is it.   

    I don’t know how I’d address it. I’ve two of these so far, the first is a first release with a solid frame, and this one with the split frame. I need to ponder it a bit. (Better modeling through peer pressure.)

  As to pulling power, I’ve just added a touch of titanium tungsten putty in the domes. It didn’t add much weight. This loco when it was run the other day was pulling 14 cars around 9.5”r curves. When the layout is operational these guys will have 8-12 car trains. So for me its good. The prototype could may be pull, what 25-30 cars, on the straight and level? Next time its running I’ll test it to slippage. We’ll see how close to it’s big brother it can pull.

[Slim Rail Mike]

Looking the model over, there is were the trailing truck attached. May be some sort of styrene prothesis could be formed and attached with a screw to that point. Ok Bob it's on the list.
 

[mmagliaro]

Why titanium?  It's only 4.5g/cm^3. Lead would be far better at 11.  Even brass and steel are heavier.

[nickelplate759]

Why titanium?  It's only 4.5g/cm^3. Lead would be far better at 11.  Even brass and steel are heavier.

Did you mean tungsten?

[Slim Rail Mike]

LOL, Sorry, Yes Tungsten. 

[bbunge]

Looking the model over, there is were the trailing truck attached. May be some sort of styrene prothesis could be formed and attached with a screw to that point. Ok Bob it's on the list.

You've reached a similar conclusion as I have.  My approach is to CAD and resin 3D print something, but the result would likely be similar.  It is a good ways down on my to-do list, so I'm very interested to see what others can come up with.

Bob

[randgust]

This is my 'raw' tender bottom for the I1 before I converted it to DCC.   You have two wires coming from the track pickups on the locomotive (isolated from the motor), two wires from the motor, two wires from the headlight.  The resistor is for the headlight.  The pickups are under all this.  And at least for the Trix shell, I had to add .020 styrene to both sides of the Kato caboose frame to set up the fit.  And the TCS 6-pin connector is in there.

I buy entire Kato 'shorty' cupola cabooses and scrap them out.  Frames and trucks go to tenders, along with pickups.  Steps get cut up and go to passenger cars.   End railings go to other cabooses, same with smokejacks.   Useful collection of parts.   When Kato was putting these in train sets they kept showing up on Ebay for around $20.  I think those days are past, just saw one listed for $99 with lights!



Link:  http://www.randgust.com/PRRI1021.JPG

I've had such 'fun' with DCC that I broke down and did this a second time to make an 'all DC' tender body so I can swap it around.  That also means that if I isolate the motor and bring the wires back, I can take another Decapod or even a 4-6-2 and put DCC and sound on it simply by swapping tenders.

[Slim Rail Mike]

Can I say I like your raw tender bottom.

Moving on

There was a question about pulling power. I tried to do a test. The results were inconclusive, due to my limited layout loop. I used 40’ boxcars, may be half to nmra weight and again may be half with metal wheels. The 0-6-0 would start 18 cars with the loco and tender on one curve and two cars on the other curve. It would pull the train around the 11”r curve. On the 9.”r curve it would slip when ~15 cars were on that curve. On the straight and level I expect it would pull a few more cars, but I can’t test that now. When the free-mo-n yard is set up I test again. The yard is 11’ long.

[Slim Rail Mike]

The Detail Associate dynamo is attached. Made a frame extension from 30 thou styrene. I tried to cover the contact by the rear driver, but it made the part way too wide. Made a couple of blobs to represent brake cylinders, they help cover the contacts. I replaced the dummy couplers, with MT couplers.















I think some paint and decals and I’ll call it done for now.

[craigolio1]

I've really enjoyed following this project.  It's made me rethink the tender for my BC Rail 2-8-0.  I've soldered wires to the tabs on my trucks, but it's caused congestion in there and the trucks aren't removable.  Seeing your pickup strips has me thinking I need to remove everything in the tender and start over. 

Also, I need that little razor saw in your hobby knife!  A quick search shows a whole variety of them.  How did I not know these are a thing?!!

Thanks.


Craig