T-Trak T-TRAK gaps between modules.

[Slim Rail Mike]

  I just put a couple of modules together for the first time. I had let the unitrak connectors extend beyond the modules by .040”. Which I think was recommended. I sure don’t like how the gap between modules look. Is this correct or did I miss something? Is there a good reason that they can’t be flush with the module ends?

[dem34]

You can make them tighter if your only going to use them for personal use. The 1mm recommendation gives a bit of wiggle room for slightly off square ends. Screws jutting out a little, scenery overlapping the end slightly, slight level misalignment etc.

[Sokramiketes]

My understanding is that the gap is needed to be able to separate the modules more easily, allowing the unitrack to rotate enough to unsnap.

A secondary feature is allowing for inconsistancy in module frame construction.

[bigdawgks]

Your modules appear to be nonstandard, so I have to ask why bother trying use the standard unitrack connection in the first place? If those two sections are only ever going to mate with each other you should be able to connect them however you want.

[wm3798]

You can use craft foam to make a flexible scenery base that covers the gap horizontally.   Even a bead of glue and some ground foam along the top edge will do the trick.

Over the course of a large set up, you don't really see it, since you'll be more focused on the module next to yours that has the Death Star memorial.



Lee

[chessie system fan]

I didn't care for the gap because of how it looked. Then I went to a show where a friend took a chisel, stuck it in the gap next to the track, and snapped the modules apart.  I became an instant believer because it didn't harm the track. Twisting whole modules over time might.

[Slim Rail Mike]

OK    A good reason is to facilitate separation.
        A good is idea flexible scenery at the edges.

    They are not quite standard, T-1-TRAK ish is the aim. The base are tea trays, I didn’t compensate for the extra 1/8” in length, so they are a bit short. The fronts are extended 2” with foam so the track is more in the scene. One track will cross boundaries in a standard place, so they will be modular, with the unitrack connectors holding them together. Allowing for a variety of  combinations of modules.

Death Star, what Death Star

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I've thought about using flexible craft foam between mine when it's particularly obnoxious.

[randgust]

Also, for eastern scenery, you can use overt amounts of Woodland Scenics foliage mats to obliterate much of the view.  But on bigger layouts or 'pickup games' of modules for shows, that's usually the least of your problems.

I resorted to that foliage mat solution on my Hickory Valley modules., works well.

And those may be "nonstandard", but as long as you have the height, and the 33mm track spacing, nothing is impossible.  The Kato track connectors are about as bulletproof as any other method of module connection and any kind of modular layout benefits, Ttrak or not.   I changed all my Hickory Valley Railroad 'off module' connections to Ttrak, even though they aren't Ttrak modules.  But yeah, going to one main track from two, that will get you banned, mostly because of the 'reverse' track wiring standard on Ttrak between the two mains.  If there's anything about Ttrak that's kinda dumb, and a carryover from Japanese DC days using one transformer, that's it.

[Lackawannae8]

its fine. ive seen worse, run it  LOL

[robert3985]

  I just put a couple of modules together for the first time. I had let the unitrak connectors extend beyond the modules by .040”. Which I think was recommended. I sure don’t like how the gap between modules look. Is this correct or did I miss something? Is there a good reason that they can’t be flush with the module ends?

Wellll...since @Slim Rail Mike is using (I assume from his photo) Code55 flex (either Atlas55 or Micro Engineering Code55) instead of Kato Unicrap...I mean Unitrack, AND he's hand-laying his own custom turnouts, I fully understand his distaste for the gap between modules...no matter what the reason is for it.

My advice, from my old Ntrak days of bending their rules as much as they would allow, is to eliminate the gaps on your dedicated modules since they'll only be buckled up with each other anyway.

If you feel the need for being able to insert a screwdriver or chisel into the gap as a leverage device to aid in separating the modules, there's no reason to extend the gap completely across the joining faces of any dedicated modules, just find where the most advantageous spot is to put your leverage device and leave a gap there...and eliminate any gap other than that one or two.  That way, you get the advantages of having a near invisible gap between dedicated modules AND still retain a gap (or gaps) for inserting a leveraging tool.

As far as the gap on non-dedicated, standard module ends, I'd stick with the T-TRAK recommended standard since you don't know what load of crap is going to be buckled up to yours in the future. If there's a problem, you want it to be because of their failure, not yours.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[mcjaco]

Over the course of a large set up, you don't really see it, since you'll be more focused on the module next to yours that has the Death Star memorial.



Lee

Be nice.  I lost friends on that Death Star. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Be nice.  I lost friends on that Death Star. 

So THAT'S where @chicken45 went...