T-Trak Sunnyvale Road TTRAK Modules

[Dave V]

So, did the foam "settle" somehow?

Looks like you're going to need to shim. You might even just want to start over with new track.

[chessie system fan]

Bummer!  Is the whole module sagging at that spot? Have you measured the bottom with your level?

[dem34]

That is what caused my frankenmodule to get scrapped. The thing with Unitrak is once it DOES deflect. Its gone, you gotta replace it. Foam does compress a little over time. Not helped by some of the lead sleds and errant grabs you encounter on the road.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

That is what caused my frankenmodule to get scrapped. The thing with Unitrak is once it DOES deflect. Its gone, you gotta replace it. Foam does compress a little over time. Not helped by some of the lead sleds and errant grabs you encounter on the road.

Yep. I plan on replacing the track someday but it's not towards the top of the priorities list. I've got other projects in the works that will keep me busy.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Bummer!  Is the whole module sagging at that spot? Have you measured the bottom with your level?

It's tough to tell. The bottom of the module is actually a thin piece of plastic. Then there's foam on top. It's a very strangely constructed thing that was pretty experimental. If I can fix it up, I'll be happy. If not, well, they'll live on in the photos.

[Sokramiketes]

Bummer!  Is the whole module sagging at that spot? Have you measured the bottom with your level?

So, did the foam "settle" somehow?

Looks like you're going to need to shim. You might even just want to start over with new track.

From the earlier photos, Ed floated the Unitrack about 1/8" over the foam roadbed and caulked the gap underneath.  My siding contractor tried that a couple times last week too. 

It's a t-trak module, so it probably doesn't need to be overbuilt.  But the old elbow-on-the-foam roadbed fear is what keeps me putting spline subroadbed on all modules. 

[Chris333]

The shelf brackets should of held it 

[randgust]

As I'm wondering why I make mine just so damn complicated with all plywood and plaster, and spent this wet weekend gluing up two more modules mostly out of birch plywood and pine block and putting reinforcement screws in, this at least makes me feel like it may actually be worth it.  I am the living definition of overbuilt portable modules.  By the time this 21x42 was done it's all I can do to carry it.
Link:  http://www.randgust.com/RossRunPlan1.jpg
Finished:
Link:  http://www.randgust.com/Ross%20Run%20Module%201%20sm.jpg

Last year at Altoona many of you saw the Hickory Valley.  My father had a wood shop with an overhead radial saw, bandsaw, and every power tool imaginable.   Learned to run all that as a teenager.  So when you have that you can use it, that 1976 18x36 portable layout was all wood benchwork and cookie-cutter plywood, with hard-shell plaster scenery.   I dropped the layout (in the case) down a flight of stairs once, it survived.   It's still stable and running today.   So yeah, I still do it that way.   But I still have my fathers woodshop equipment, not everybody has that stuff or space.

YES, they are heavy.  The one clue I'll put out is that I put two Ttrak modules together, one flipped over top of the other (skyboards are permanent) and screw on custom plywood end plates with carrying handles on them.  It's worked for years.   I just drill holes in the plywood ends to clear the protruding Kato  rail joiners.  I carry a power screwdriver to shows and it goes pretty quick.   Even when you think you are careful, any portable module can get some pretty rough handling in transit.