Lok Pilot for Atlas legacy

[MILWcoastdiv]

Hi fellas, does ESU make a Lok Pilot direct for the older Atlas legacy chassis?  I would like V5 if possible. Been all over the internet and can only find with sound but don't want to spend the $ for a bunch of older locomotives.

Thanks,
Mario

[peteski]

Give an example of what is Atlas Legacy chassis.

The only LokPilot made to install on top of the chassis was LokPilotV4 No LokPilot5s were produced in that outline.
See https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44324.msg569570#msg569570

[MILWcoastdiv]

Hi Pete, no idea if this pic will show up or not but what I'm looking for is Lok Pilot (silent) version of 'ESU 58751, LokSound 5 Micro DCC, Direct Atlas Legacy, Sound Decoder, N Scale'




Thanks!

[peteski]

No, ESU doesn't make LokPilot decoder like that.

[GGNInNScale]

Hi  If you have a Dremel tool, you can adapt the little LokPilots, like a 58920 (no sound) or a LokSound 58923 (sound).   I have installed many of the 58923 units in small diesels like GP7, RS-3, and others.

[MILWcoastdiv]

Thanks guys, I ordered 59820 which seems to have roughly the same description as the 58920 as you pointed out. 


Thanks
Mario

[GGNInNScale]

Hi  If you have a Dremel tool, you can adapt the little LokPilots, like a 58920 (no sound) or a LokSound 58923 (sound).   I have installed many of the 58923 units in small diesels like GP7, RS-3, and others.

I agree.  I have done about 15 installs with the 58923 (I use sound).  It takes some work with the Dremel, but you can fit in the 589XX, remove any unused wires.  Take off the plastic sleeve (it only makes the decoder run hot- no reason to do this.)  If you are using lights, take one of the unused/removed wires and double up the blue wire so you can run a long lead to the rear light- makes it easier.  You may need to do some machining to get the speaker to fit at the end opposite the decoder.

[Dwight in Toronto]

Hmmmm - I’ve been leaving those shrink-wrapped plastic sleeves on the ESU wired decoders, but not without feeling perplexed about whether or not it’s the right thing to do.

My guess is that ESU wouldn’t go to the bother of sleeving the device unless it was important.  Presumably, it’s to prevent inadvertent shorting of decoder components.  But I also have considered the overheating possibility. 

I'm conflicted … so betwixt & between … what say the masses?

[GGNInNScale]

Yep, the sleeve is there to protect against shorts.  Use Kapton tape on all of the metal surfaces in the area of the decoder mount.  1) Kapton tape is a spectacularly good insulator; 2) it is very thin and frees up a few mm of vertical height (important in many N scale locos; 3) it allows for air circulation around the decoder reducing the heat load.  I take a small scissors and just make a short cut at whichever end has some extra plastic tubing, then take needle nose pliers and pull and unwrap the clear tubing.  It will come off in a spiral.  Then, I unsolder the wires that I do not need, and solder an extra wire to the + wire (usually blue) on the decoder for rear light connection.

[peteski]

Here is my take on this:

The heat shrink is installed by ESU to protect the decoder circuitry from shorts.  I suspect that removing  it voids the warranty (if that is something to worry you).  It is not really causing the decoders to heat up excessively (with all outputs using PWM, there is very little heat generated). Again, if ESU suspected that the heat shrink sleeve shortened decoders life due to overheating, they would have likely found another alternative solution.

I also don't  see removing the sleeve and replacing it with Kapton tape will save few millimeters.  The sleeve is nowhere near that thick.

Whenever I can, I leave the sleeve intact.  On some small  decoders few of the AUX pads (without wires) are under the sleeve.  If I need to expose them to solder wires, I just trim the sleeve enough to expose the pads.

Of course modelers who "know what they're doing" will remove the sleeve and use alternative solutions, because they can.  Personally I'm not a fan of Kapton tape unless I really needed for some specific application.

[GGNInNScale]

Hi  Removing the plastic does not affect the warranty- direct experience several times when the decoders died.  If you are putting the decoder into a small frame, the curl in the tubing at each end increases the effective height by about 1 to 2mm in an Atlas GP frame when the decoder is angled into the front or rear areas.  There is not this amount of freeboard available inside the shell.  The decoders do get hot, especially if they are pulling hard, or driving a high current motor, or running fast for extended times (checked this a few times with the "upper lip" heat test when troubleshooting problems.)  Putting a layer of Kapton onto the frame surfaces prevents any shorts, and also allows for air circulation and takes negligible height increase.  As you said there are alternative solutions...

[GaryHinshaw]

I trim the sleeve off the 59820 so I can connect a TCS KA-N1 keep alive.  I drew up and 3-d printed a holder to keep the combo together.  I have now converted ~30 of my Katos with this combo and the performance has been amazing.