When I first started out back in the late 1970's, I used a push/pull setup with a sliding DPDT switch underneath my module with a simple piano wire linkage to the throwbar, which worked well for both commercial and my hand-built turnouts.
I operated at the Hostler's Train Show last month on the Wasatch N-Scaler's setup with Nate, troubleshooting his BLI Big Boy pulled military train, and they are using the same setup, but with no piano wire push/pull handles sticking out of the front fascia. You have to reach underneath where they are logically placed at right angles to the throwbars, and it worked well once you got the "feel" for it.
I used .047" piano wire for the linkages, grinding down the portion that sticks through the PCB throwbar to .020" or thereabouts. I also fashioned the linkage supports out of premium pine using my tablesaw, then glued it all to a 1/8" plate of Aircraft Quality plywood, which got glued & screwed to my subroadbed.
Photo (1) - Push/Pull Sliding DPDT Switch with Piano Wire Linkages and Wood Linkage Supports:
Photo (2) - Push/Pull DPDT Switch Topside View on Hand-Built Code55 Turnout Mounted to 1" Subroadbed & Cork Roadbed:
These photos are of a short (18" long) demo mini-diorama I did demonstrating the difference between Code55 Mainline trackage and Code55 neglected Siding trackage, so the space was limited to make the linkages. If you've got more room you can easily spread things out a bit.
The advantages are that the whole linkage/DPDT Switch mechanism is robust, easy to make, and cheap. The Wasatch N-Scalers have been using them for at least a decade without any problems.
However, for myself in my eternal quest for more prototypical appearances for everything, I decided I wanted slow-motion to actuate my throwbars because I am planning on having investment-cast N-scale switch stands at each turnout with targets that rotate with the throwbar actuation. This means that I went with Circuitron Tortoises for all of my turnouts because I want to see that target slowly rotating as the points are thrown.
At the time, DCC was in its infancy, so my main electrical concerns were to have live frogs for smooth operation and to reliably direct power, and Tortoises with their dual DPDT electrical terminals are very handy for that.
Now that I've fully gone over to DCC, I use the Tortoise terminals only for my live frogs, but may use them for signaling in the near future on my center sidings.
Photo (3) - Tortoises Underneath my Echo Yard, With Some of Them Being Pretty Close Together:
I've found that I need to beef up the actuating wire that comes in the box with Tortoises. I used to grind the ends down on my supply of .047" piano wire, but now I'm using small diameter brass tubing with a length of the included wire crimped and soldered into each end of it. I use silver-bearing solder, which is 5 to 6 times stronger than plain ol' lead/tin electrical solder for this since the last thing I want to be doing is crawling around under my layout having to repair an actuating wire in the middle of a show somewhere.
Tortoises are a proven product and have been around forever. I like 'em for their reliability, their slo-mo actuation and their generous electrical contacts, and that I can operate more than one at the same time off of one DPDT Toggle Switch when I need to throw a couple of turnouts in a crossover, or something similar...which would be difficult to do with the piano wire push/pull linkage.
My only gripe about them is that they've become expensive. Luckily for me, I've been using them for so long I've got dozens taken from early modules that still work reliably, so I doubt I'll have to ever buy any again.
On your Peco Electrofrog turnouts, make sure you remove the over-center spring at the throwbar before installing them on your layout to make them compatible with whatever actuation scheme you decide on.
Have fun!
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
