Coal Mine Scenery – Pt. 1 & Tips...
Part 1 of the upper level coal mine scenery east of the mine will also be an overview of the tools I use to shape the foam board into rock faces for my local. You can also use similar methods/tools to create other types of terrain.
The tools shown above and in the next image are my ‘go-to’ tools for working with foam board. I ordered and used a couple other hot wire tools than the ones shown above but these are by far better than what they were. I highly recommend these tools from the
Hot Wire Foam Factory . The free-hand routers by far gets the most use. More info on the tools, where to get them and how to use them
(for sure check this out here) .
I bought the bandsaw some years back and haven’t really used it all that much for woodworking but have used it a ton with the foam board scenery. I have a lot of this scenery so very happy to have it. The bandsaw and working with the foam board in general can create quite a mess.
After cutting a piece with the bandsaw I run the vacuum cleaner hose over the piece and it quickly sucks in the small particles that are stuck to the board due to static electricity. It also really helps in cleaning the layout top as I cut and shape foam there.
To make one layer of foam board scenery I start with a paper towel and a pen and sharpie. Use my imagination on how I want the basic contour to look. I’ll sketch it out on the base layout foam and then recreate that with the paper towels. They work well since they are flexible and you can push them up against the end of another piece and then mark that angle by running a pen along the fold. If you need more length tape more together.
I’ll take the pattern to the workbench and transfer it onto a piece of foam board making it slightly larger. I’ll take the pattern to the workbench and transfer it onto a piece of foam board making it slightly larger.
I use mostly 1” & 1 ½” foam but have some 2” also. The local lumberyard a block down the street stocks it. Glad there isn’t a big box store within 135 miles to put them out of business. The local store has better lumber, better stock on items like this foam and the prices are as good. Consider searching for an old time lumber yard near you. You probably won’t be disappointed in the lumber vs. what you are getting from the big box stores.
I cut the new piece out with the band saw (you could use a jig/saber saw) and then vacuum the static waste off immediately. I’ll take it back to the layout if I need a great fit, like here where I want it to fit tight against the backdrop. I’ll take a felt pen and hold it flush on the back drop and drag it along the foam. This will transfer the profile of the backdrop to the foam. Then back to the bandsaw and cut on the line or just inside of it.
I’ll run the rasp along the back side at an angle to undercut the back side just a touch and to make my cut more uniform. Now the foam should fit right up against the backdrop with no gaps.
I’ll then glue the new piece to the piece below it with the ‘PowerGrab’ and usually let that set overnight if I’m removing the piece from the layout like I’m doing with these piece.
I can cut more than one piece at a time and glue them all at the same time. If I don’t have to move them like here I’ll keep cutting and building the height up staking the pieces together with short lengths of 1/16” welding rod (some use wood skewers) so they don’t move.
Next step is to cut some detail into the foam. If the layer below has been cut and there is a fair amount of overhand of the top piece I take the sculpting tool and drag it along the contour of the lower level and it will cut the top close to that contour with still a little overhang.
Next I’ll use the free-hand router and start cutting away at the foam with it shaping the rock face to look what I want it too. Cut deeper relief where erosion was more at work. Try not to get repetitive, easy to do. Use mistakes to your advantage. Remember that nothing is straight or repetitive in nature. Have some fun with it.
You will get quicker over time. I roughed in the above with the free-hand router in about 45 minutes.
Next I use the small brush above about 90% of the time and a larger wire brush, a file or something else the other 10% of the time. If you want a more angular look to the rock face don’t use the brush much. If you want smoother rock faces be more aggressive with the brush. You can pick and knock off edges more with the end brush and use the other longer brush to smooth surfaces. Experiment with them..
For this rock face the above is ready to move onto the spackling steps.
I might hit this strata more with the large wire brush to put more strata lines/cracks in it. Will have to consider that. You can change course some when you put the spackling on also.
It took about an hour and a half to get these two layers ready for spackling.
Normally to this point I would do the foam work in place on the layout. I probably should of finished this area before I did the lower level as it is a real reach to get into the center of this section as the layout is 6 feet wide. I’ve been working on a ladder on the left side above and an elevated platform on the right side. I’m only good for a couple hours at a time climbing up and down.
I’ll continue working on this on/off the layout to get the shape I want (not sure what that is at this point). Then I’ll do all the spackling and painting off the layout and this section will probably always be removable for adding more detail later.
More to come ………...
A link to this whole build
( HERE ) .
Sumner
