Any sources to do so milling on an N-Gauge frame?

[mmagliaro]

Go get this:
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/3000-variable-speed-rotary-tool

This:
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-115-carving-bit

This:
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/220-01-workstation

And This:
https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-27100-Micro-Compound-Table/dp/B000S81MHY

And try it yourself.
This is the exact setup I use for large material removal. If I need to get more precise, I use a different bit. It has a little play, but for milling out a space for decoder, It works.

I agree that for relatively simple jobs like milling a space out for a decoder,which does not require super precision, a setup like this will work.  In fact, for anybody who happens to already own a drill press, you could just mount an X-Y table under that and go to town.  It is not generally a good idea to do milling with a drill (or a Dremel) because the chuck bearings are not designed to withstand sideways forces.  But for the relatively light work we are talking about here, and the small number of times you are likely to do it, it should be fine.

[delamaize]

I agree that for relatively simple jobs like milling a space out for a decoder,which does not require super precision, a setup like this will work.  In fact, for anybody who happens to already own a drill press, you could just mount an X-Y table under that and go to town.  It is not generally a good idea to do milling with a drill (or a Dremel) because the chuck bearings are not designed to withstand sideways forces.  But for the relatively light work we are talking about here, and the small number of times you are likely to do it, it should be fine.

Yep, exactly, I have been using this setup for years for decoder space milling. I found the key is to make very VERY shallow, and slow passes. It takes a long time, but saving the tool is worth it.

One day, I'd like to have a actual small mill, but for what I'm doing, this works.

[Maletrain]

To be honest, multiple times I have "milled" aluminum and Zamac with a Dremel burr in a regular shop drill press, just moving the part around on the drill press table with my hands.  Sometimes I uses a fence to make sure that the piece moves in a straight line, or does not go too far in one direction. Sometimes I even use the stop on the fence.

You do, of course, need to be careful to not mill you hands.  And, you need to take very light cuts to avoid having the drill chuck fall out because its Morris taper is not designed for much side force.

I wouldn't do it that way if the results had to be "pretty".  But, it seems to give me better control of dimensions, especially depth, than putting the piece in a vice and using a hack saw.  Especially if the piece has intricate shapes that are not amenable to the flat jaws of a vice.  And, I think I am putting substantially less force on the parts when holding them with my hand pressing them onto the table and lightly passing them against the rotating burr, compared to using a vice and pushing a hack saw and metal file against them.

Now, if Dave Foxx will just provide a disclaimer for you all to sign before taking my advice... 

[mmagliaro]

---snip---

You do, of course, need to be careful to not mill you hands.  And, you need to take very light cuts to avoid having the drill chuck fall out because its Morris taper is not designed for much side force.

---snip

Now this is something I had not considered.  The drill chuck in my milling maching (when I use the drill chuck) is still held in by a draw bar bolt, so it cannot fall out of the MT3 (Morris) taper.  I suppose the chuck itself could come off the arbor (as opposed to the arbor coming out of the MT3 spindle), but the chuck is on a JT33 mount, and I don't believe I've ever seen a drill chuck pull off one of those.

[wpsnts]

Bart,
Here is another to consider.
http://www.tophobbytrains.com/millingchargepermillpoint.aspx

[mmagliaro]

Bart,
Here is another to consider.
http://www.tophobbytrains.com/millingchargepermillpoint.aspx

Their milling machine has a drill chuck in it.   

It says "$15 per mill area".  So if you need two cavities milled out,
like for a decoder and speaker, that's $30.  And I wonder what they do about milling out channels for wires, and shipping.  The costs would really add up if you had a number of engines to do, but I can't say it's an unfair price.  Setting up the frames in the machine, doing the cutting, cleaning everything up, boxing, mailing...  I'd guess it's 30 minutes of work at least and that's if you are fast at it.

[Boilerman]

Check out www.Srerline.com for minilatehs and Milling equipment.
The quality is great and Amazon and e-bay has them at a reduced cost.

[glakedylan]

i think the link was suppose to be


https://www.sherline.com/


sincerely
Gary