Debonding JB Weld?

[mike_lawyer]

On my Kato Mikado 2-10-2 project, I realized that I misaligned one of the siderods.  I used JB Weld to epoxy the siderods together.  Does anyone know of a way to debond JB Weld?  Doing a quick web search, it looks like heat will work  at around 400 degrees, but I don't want to damage the siderods themselves.  Anyone have a favored method?

[DKS]

Soaking in acetone usually does the trick, assuming the siderods are metal. If they're plastic, you'll probably need to order replacement parts.

[mike_lawyer]

Yep, they are metal parts.  I have read mixed things about the effectiveness of acetone, but if that works, I am all for it.

[mmagliaro]

If they are Kato Mikado siderods, they are stainless steel.  Heat won't bother them.  Just run a hot soldering iron back and forth over the backside of the rod (where it won't show, even if you somehow stain it), and the JB Weld should let go.
If acetone works, though, feel free.  Sounds easier, and I can't imagine it would harm stainless.

[mike_lawyer]

Tried the soldering gun method, but I don't think I can get it hot enough.  It has to be around 500 degrees to debond.  Maybe use a heat gun?

[peteski]

Tried the soldering gun method, but I don't think I can get it hot enough.  It has to be around 500 degrees to debond.  Maybe use a heat gun?

Hmmm, basic soldering irons run at 700 degrees F or hotter.  Heat gun should work too (and it will not melt stainless steel). That JB Weld stuff is really robust!

When to say "soldering gun", is it one of those heavy pistol-like irons with small tip, or a standard pencil-type iron?

[mmagliaro]

Use a soldering iron.  You will need to place the rod flat, face down, on a block of wood, and then press on it with the iron, moving it back and forth to get the whole thing hot.
It might take 20-30 seconds to get that whole thing up to the melting point of JB.  The block will start to char a little.  Don't worry.
Don't place it on anything plastic (will melt) or metal (will absorb all the heat and you'll get nowhere).
It won't happen instantly.

I wouldn't use one of those big soldering "gun" things.  They are too clumsy.  You don't want to press on the rod so hard that you
bend or deform it (that's why you lay it on a block of wood).  It has to get REALLY hot.  If you have a little of amber colored soldering flux goo, put a drop of that on the rod before you apply the iron.  It will help conduct the heat better.  You can clean it all up with acetone afterward.

[mike_lawyer]

Great call on the wood block.  I took a soldering iron, put the rods upside down on a small piece of 1x3, it took about 30 seconds and the rods debonded.  Cleaned them up with really fine sandpaper, and they are ready to be reused.

[mmagliaro]

Shazam!  Glad to hear it.