Lifelike GP60 TCS install

[ATSF_Ron]

I've had this Lifelike GP60 for a few months and recently acquired a few TCS CN-GP decoders, which this GP60 supposedly uses.  It's Lifelike item number 7476, if it matters.  So it's time for a DCC install so I can run it with my other Lifelike GP60 (previous owner did the DCC) and my FVM GP60.  I've looked at the TCS web site.  They claim there is no frame mod that needs to be done.  Another website shows frame mods made with a Dremel to make the wires tuck in better.  Either way, the shell needs to come off, and this is where I'm at a bit of a loss.  Everything I've read, including Spookshow's site, say to use either toothpicks or jeweler's screwdrivers to get the shell off.  But...I can get one side only to open up.  When I go to the other side, there is SERIOUS tweaking of the bronze contact strips that sit under the shell and contact the tab on top of the trucks.  I'm hesitant to press ahead as I know these bronze strips can be a beeotch to straighten if they're bent.  Possibly even useless if bent.  I've read the  newer Atlas versions don't use the bronze strips, so finding new ones is a concern if I tweak them.  Anyone have tips on how to GENTLY remove shell without bending said bronze contact strips?  @spookshowmark, your review says you no longer own any of these, but do you recall the best method for removing the Lifelike shell?

Thanks,
ATSF_Ron

[nscaler711]

Ron Sorry to rain on your parade, but I have posted in this thread about putting DCC in the old GP60s from LL/Walthers
and... a bit of tinkering with the FVM models.
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=59475.0


TLDR the new GP60 mechs (w/sound or w/o sound) fit under the old shells.

[ATSF_Ron]

Got the install done with no final cuts to the wires until I finish troubleshooting.  I'm installing the TCS CN-GP decoder, as this GP60 has a split board.  I did all the mods to the frame as described in the TCS manual and here:

https://n-scale-dcc.blogspot.com/2013/02/tcs-cn-gp-in-life-like-gp60.html

I did a DC only test after putting the frame halves and screws back together.  No trucks yet.  The motor ran perfectly.  Installed the trucks and it also ran perfectly.  Wired up the other 3 wires to the decoder and placed the loco on the tracks, no shell.  Rear light went on, blinked, and the "overload" message appeared on my MRC Prodigy Express DCC system.  Turned everything off and checked all connections.  All seems fine.  Turned things on again and the rear light went on as before, but no overload message this time.  Turned up the throttle slowly to step 50 and got no movement.  Odd.  Disconnected DCC and tried DC only, as this decoder should recognize DC, according to my paperwork.  There were lights only and also no movement.

I've included 2 pics.  The first is the front half of the decoder, and the second is the rear.  What am I missing here?  This is my first DCC install into any loco.  It looked simple enough.  This one seems to be a head scratcher.  At least to me.  And yes, I set the address to "loco 3," as that is supposed to be the factory setting for all new decoders, correct?






Thanks guys,

ATSF_Ron

[ATSF_Ron]

Problem(s) solved!  I poked around online and found that the tightness of the fit of each half of the decoder could have been an issue.  I put a tiny piece of copy paper under the copper cladding on the bottom of the front board, as it felt a bit loose.  It's much tighter now.  Also, as I was putzing around with it, the orange motor lead popped off, most likely due to my crappy solder job.  Now she purrs like a kitten.  Hopefully after I get the wiring trimmed to proper length and the shell put back on, all will still be well.

If this one turns out 100%, next up will be two Atlas classic GP30s in UP and three in ATSF.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Be aware: I found a factory defect in the design of the GP60 when installing DCC. You can read more here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=57835

[ATSF_Ron]

Daniel, thanks for that link.  Crazy! I’d have pulled every remaining hair on my head out trying to solve that issue. Nice work, and thanks for the warning. I’m trimming up wires to the proper length, testing again, and putting the shell back on, all hopefully tonight. I’ll report back with success or failure! 😬🙏🏼

[ATSF_Ron]

Shell is back on with no problems in operation, thankfully!  However...apparently a couple more coats of black will be necessary on those cab windows, as well as locating the damn fuel tank!  The layout is in a state of disarray, so nothing will happen until after Christmas.  It's no doubt buried under piles of decoder paperwork and a couple other unfinished loco & kit projects.

[GM50 4164]

Shell is back on with no problems in operation, thankfully!  However...apparently a couple more coats of black will be necessary on those cab windows, as well as locating the damn fuel tank!  The layout is in a state of disarray, so nothing will happen until after Christmas.  It's no doubt buried under piles of decoder paperwork and a couple other unfinished loco & kit projects.

Ron, I used to paint the inside of the glass to block out the light bleed as well but have switched to using electrical tape placed on the inside of the glass which works great!

Merry Christmas!

[ATSF_Ron]

Thanks, GM50, I’ve considered that option as well.