Author Topic: Custom N Loco Frame Casting/Buidling?  (Read 3193 times)

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randgust

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Re: Custom N Loco Frame Casting/Buidling?
« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2015, 06:28:05 PM »
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For my 65-ton Whitcomb kit, and my powered boxcar kit, I used the Tomytec methodology (which is a cast plastic frame with standardized trucks) and adapted it to different wheelbases and motor mounts.   These are cast resin frames:





The express reefer frame is a two-part 'clamp' method, the only real trick is getting the wheelbase right and modifying the driveshaft length to fit it.

superturbine

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Re: Custom N Loco Frame Casting/Buidling?
« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2015, 08:26:09 PM »
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SWEET randgust!

Iain

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Re: Custom N Loco Frame Casting/Buidling?
« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2015, 09:54:43 PM »
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The idea is to 3D print it, then cast it in bronze.
I like ducks



Viperjim1

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Re: Custom N Loco Frame Casting/Buidling?
« Reply #18 on: February 03, 2015, 10:22:45 PM »
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The pc board is actually fiberglass with a 1 ounce piece of copper per square ft laminated to it with a heat pressure system basically 1 and 1/2 to 2 tons of pressure and if you know anybody in the circuit board manufacturing industry , you can get this with up to 4 or 5 ounces thickness which is .0014 thousandths per ounce of copper, and they make a d.i.y etch kit I believe from Graingers or micromark that you can design and etch your own circuitry onto the pc board material. For the ones who want to power certain areas.

randgust

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Re: Custom N Loco Frame Casting/Buidling?
« Reply #19 on: February 04, 2015, 06:58:26 AM »
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The Tomytec approach is really pretty good.  Plaza Japan has a lot of their mechanisms already, and they have many different frame lengths and at least three different truck wheelbases available, and sideframes are separate.   The only 'problem' is that the frames are designed for horizontal motor mounts.   If you're looking for a typical roadswitcher hood, you need to mount the motor on edge.  So I copied their either frame approach for the truck holes and pickup strips, with a cradle to relocate the motor.    It's not particularly complicated, and if you were doing a one-off, you can do the entire deal yourself in thick styrene.  I made mine into masters and cast them into resin, but that's not necessarily part of the solution unless you're making a lot of them.

I've had excellent results with these trucks, and I've evolved into gearhead motors on the one-truck drives.   If the flanges are too high for you, the are split-axle design and its easy to pull them apart, chuck them in a Dremel, and turn the flanges.  No big deal.

I think a Shapeways-style printed metal frame is possible, just never seen it.  I wonder about the tolerances in areas like the bearing blocks and also fitting an insulated motor cradle - the pin dimensions on those are rather precise.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2015, 07:32:02 AM by randgust »