Author Topic: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas  (Read 9841 times)

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mmagliaro

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Re: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas
« Reply #60 on: April 27, 2014, 05:15:28 PM »
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try a layer of tape over the #4 driver bearing.

.... or file at the bearing pocket of the # 3 driver.

Victor:  Thanks.  But without traction tires, why would getting more pressure on #4 help?  Your hint implies that
it slightly see-saws on #3, which I don't doubt.  But how does this help without rubber?

victor miranda

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Re: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas
« Reply #61 on: April 28, 2014, 01:20:30 AM »
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Hi Max,

I was in a rush earlier.

I thought you had a traction tire axle set on #4.
Buuuuut...
I had decided a long while ago that in n-scale
two drivers are able to get better traction then 4 or 6

the short form is get the weight on the rear-most geared driver.

With the Kato Mike, I have only tinkered a little because they run pretty well.
Before the TT option, I waved a file at bearing pockets for axles #2 and #3.
that helped... and I have to state it was worth about 2 or maybe 4 cars more.

At that point I stopped because I decided the only effective way to get
a bunch more weight in there was to chop the frame and cast lead weights.

the GHQ l1 conversion was not an option then.

you are looking at the frame weight.
If that weight were all I was attempting to improve...
I'd make a mold of it,  fit as many 1/16th diameter welding rods as I could,
and cast lead-free pewter around them.
...
most likely using an open top mold so as to heat the rods to allow the pewter
to flow into all the crannies.

with any luck, that weight and traction tires can get the Kato motor
to quietly melt during a long slow haul...

why are you tinkering the Mike?

victor

mmagliaro

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Re: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas
« Reply #62 on: April 28, 2014, 04:04:56 AM »
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I am no intending to go to those lengths, Victor.
I started all this by thinking that if the GHQ shell made these pull so much more, then if I could
add as much weight as that shell to the standard weight that comes in the Mikado, I could
make any Mikado pull like that.  Since the stock weight is 10-12g,
and the GHQ shell is 26, I was hoping to get the stock weight up to about 36 by casting it in lead
or lead with tungsten pieces embedded in it, but no go.

There were other false assumptions anyway.  First, the GHQ W-3 shell is 26g, but that is without the
smokebox face or cab, and those would add a little, so let's call it 30.
Second, as I now know, even with 45g of weight piled on there, it's no go on pulling a long train.
The traction tire is simply a must (a lot more practical than recasting the frame).

My other tinkering has been the motor.  I put the Maxon 1024 in there because they are readily available,
not too expensive, and are brutes for power.  They fit with minimal modification, even allowing enough room for me
to put a huge 12mm diesel flywheel on there instead of the little thin one that Kato uses.  My aim
was to add more power and reduce speed.  I failed on point #2.  The Maxon w/out a gearhead is no slower
than the Kato motor.  But it does turn with the strength of 10 grinches (just try stopping the motor
with your fingers even at quite a low speed), and it can run at about 0.6 mph so I'm happy.

SkipGear

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Re: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas
« Reply #63 on: April 28, 2014, 09:37:24 AM »
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Max,
 Do you have a shot of the 1024 in the frame? It might be an option for my 2-10-2. It can pull a lot more than the motor can handle. The last time I had it out, 88 cars no sweat until the motor started overheating and the drive coupler slipped on the shaft as a result.
Tony Hines

peteski

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Re: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas
« Reply #64 on: April 28, 2014, 01:19:57 PM »
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I wonder if the difference is in the fact that it was an open pour vs. a spin or pressure cast? A gravity pour could be more porus and less dense than a pressure cast.

Lead poured into an open mold is pretty solid (not porous).  Spin casting or injection casting simply evacuates the air in parts of a complex mold where air would get trapped otherwise. This is not a problem in a 1-piece open mold.  The metal is not full of gas bubbles like a carbonated drink.  :)
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mmagliaro

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Re: Kato Mikado weight info and ideas
« Reply #65 on: April 28, 2014, 04:31:00 PM »
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Max,
 Do you have a shot of the 1024 in the frame? It might be an option for my 2-10-2. It can pull a lot more than the motor can handle. The last time I had it out, 88 cars no sweat until the motor started overheating and the drive coupler slipped on the shaft as a result.

Tony,
I started a separate thread on the Mikado project.
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=32767