Modifying an Atlas/Roco low hood unit to a SRR High Hood unit

[alhoop]

I have an Atlas/Roco low hood Burlington GP30 that I want to modify to a SRR High hood unit as
Jim Kelly did (Model Railroader July 1979).I can't find out what the dome looking item  is on the roof
between the exhaust stack and the dynamic fan(see first photo). It is glued on the shell ala the horns and shows
in Jim's Fig. 1 as the bright shiny item on the roof. Secondly it seems that no one models the brake setting lever
in the recess on the left side of the short hood.(see photo 2). Seems to be a ratchet type thingy with maybe a cover,
anyone have an idea on how to model it?
Guess I'll be safe with just a clear lens for the classification lights with no means to illuminate.

Al

[wm3798]

My only thought is why would you bother?  The Atlas/Kato version is million times better runner, better looking, (although I believe the hood may be a tad out of scale width wise) and if I'm not mistaken, there is (or at least was) a resin kit available to do exactly what you're looking to do.  I'm sure you could find a shell on Shapeways as well.

Lee

[cjm413]

My only thought is why would you bother?  The Atlas/Kato version is million times better runner, better looking, (although I believe the hood may be a tad out of scale width wise) and if I'm not mistaken, there is (or at least was) a resin kit available to do exactly what you're looking to do.  I'm sure you could find a shell on Shapeways as well.

Lee

Take a very close look at any resin shells before buying them - I recall at least one of them was basically a resin copy of a half-@$$ed kitbash of an Atlas/Kato GP30 shell (Big Dawg?)

[nickelplate759]

This might be useful.   Would still need to modify the cab good a bit.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WGZLLFERV/n-scale-gp30-high-hood-only?optionId=41138545

[alhoop]

This might be useful.   Would still need to modify the cab good a bit.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WGZLLFERV/n-scale-gp30-high-hood-only?optionId=41138545

Very useful! - Thanks George
I just ordered  unit in black. Has the brake lever and mounted bell. Sure will save me a lot of work.

Lee Weldon - you are right except no one makes a Southern Railway GP30 in N-scale.
I already have the Atlas/Roco unit (from the 1970's?) and it is a good runner, just a little noisy,
but still runs better than  brass Hallmark F A/B units I have. I also have the Microscale decal set 60-539.
Actually I have two, any suggestions on using them as I have never decalled any locomotive before.
Thanks to both.
Al

PS Shapeways cancelled the order - sez they can't 3D print it - I guess from the black material although they had it listed.

[Catt]

I've been trying to get someone to do the GP 30 high hood and cab (cab is different on the high hood GP30s). So far I can't even get a "NO" for a reply.

[coosvalley]

Very useful! - Thanks George
I just ordered  unit in black. Has the brake lever and mounted bell. Sure will save me a lot of work.

Lee Weldon - you are right except no one makes a Southern Railway GP30 in N-scale.
I already have the Atlas/Roco unit (from the 1970's?) and it is a good runner, just a little noisy,
but still runs better than  brass Hallmark F A/B units I have. I also have the Microscale decal set 60-539.
Actually I have two, any suggestions on using them as I have never decalled any locomotive before.
Thanks to both.
Al

PS Shapeways cancelled the order - sez they can't 3D print it - I guess from the black material although they had it listed.

The material you want to use is FUD, or even better, FXD...

[peteski]

The material you want to use is FUD, or even better, FXD...

Isn't the black material supposed to be even higher fidelity/resolution and smoother than FXD?  But IIRC, it had its own set of problems.

[jpwisc]

I explain how to do this build back in the Nov/Dec 2012 issue of N Scale Railroading. It is a pretty simple build. You can probably still get the back issue. I would model the brake ratchet using scrap styrene and wire. Easy peasy.

[alhoop]

Isn't the black material supposed to be even higher fidelity/resolution and smoother than FXD?  But IIRC, it had its own set of problems.

Yeah - they originally had 3 different materials to choose from:
Black Acrylate, Frosted Ultra and Frosted Extreme.
They cancelled my order for a N scale GP30 high hood in Acrylate -said they couldn't make it.
They have since removed the Acrylate choice so I ordered the same item in frosted extreme
and it hasn't been cancelled yet, but it is still the holidays.
Thanks Karl - I might order that issue just to see how you did it.
If the hood I have ordered is anything like the photos, it will save me a lot of time.
The bell, bell bracket, recessed brake lever, number boards, headlights, classification lights and
dimples to help locate the grab irons are all modeled.

[PiperguyUMD]

Yeah - they originally had 3 different materials to choose from:
Black Acrylate, Frosted Ultra and Frosted Extreme.
They cancelled my order for a N scale GP30 high hood in Acrylate -said they couldn't make it.
They have since removed the Acrylate choice so I ordered the same item in frosted extreme
and it hasn't been cancelled yet, but it is still the holidays.
Thanks Karl - I might order that issue just to see how you did it.
If the hood I have ordered is anything like the photos, it will save me a lot of time.
The bell, bell bracket, recessed brake lever, number boards, headlights, classification lights and
dimples to help locate the grab irons are all modeled.

The HDA didn't like the bell.  It's really a shame because you can get such good results with this material.  I've successfully printed shells with finer details than the bell bracket on this one, Shapeways is so frustrating sometimes!  I'm sure you'll be happy with FXD though, a little extra car in the prep makes all the difference.  After the Bestine bath, I prime my FUD and FXD models with Mr. Surfacer 1000, then wet sand the model.  This usually gives me a great surface to work with, then I add details per usual.  Please post some progress pics!

Maybe one day I'll get around to drawing the rest of the cab.  The curves and angles make it a very difficult model to get right!