A segmented layout?

[Ian MacMillan]

That's for sure. Had to move remove a tank once that wasn't empty, but the remaining oil had sat so long it was sludge. Took four of us and two come-alongs to get it out. Oh, and we had to remove the stairs and punch holes in the first floor ceiling to mount the come-alongs to the studs.

I would have gave up after 5 min.

[DKS]

I would have gave up after 5 min.

It took most of a day, but it was entirely worth it. The space occupied by the tank became layout space. (Not to mention that one of the fellows helping to remove the tank also paid for it and hauled it away, so there was also a modest profit involved.) Perhaps given sufficient incentive, you might have lasted longer.

[Bob Bufkin]

I'm thankful my tank is outside the house.  Also thankful to have a brother-in-law who does Heating and A/C work.  Saves me a lot of money.  He installed A/C in our older house for a fraction of the cost of a contractor.

[Ian MacMillan]

It took most of a day, but it was entirely worth it. The space occupied by the tank became layout space. (Not to mention that one of the fellows helping to remove the tank also paid for it and hauled it away, so there was also a modest profit involved.) Perhaps given sufficient incentive, you might have lasted longer.

I would have made it my shootin tank.

My tank is where my staging yard is, but thankfully the tank is 2" shorter than what the staging yard called for, so the yard just goes right over the tank.

[DKS]

My tank is where my staging yard is, but thankfully the tank is 2" shorter than what the staging yard called for, so the yard just goes right over the tank.

Hmmm... wonder if that's an option for Dan...

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The water heater is just that, and not connected to the boiler. The boiler runs on oil, which is that damn 5' high 270 gallon tank. The gas line supprts the stove and water heater. If I had the money, I would install gas heat, but that is too much.

I doubt the tank will fit in the porch area. Its just too big.

As for the water in the basement, at worst, it got to be about 4" high in one end and damp at the other. The area getting wet is closest to the brook. I think if I have an interior franch drain, collection basin and sump pump pushing that water to the end of the property, I should be fine. We use a surface pump when the water comes in and it can usially clear out the basment in about 20 minutes which makes me think that the water flow is pretty low.

The basment actually has 60 year old plaster walls covering the foundation. I think this may be covering some cracks on the walls where the water collects. there are also a few cracks on the floor I need to cut out and cement. I also have to demo a small finished room in the basement before any of this starts.

[pnolan48]

If the surface pump will clear it in 20 minutes, then a sump pump may work. It depends on the depth of the water table beneath the floor. If that depth is really shallow, the sump may be permanently in water, and you will end up trying to pump the brook dry.

I owned houses in the Framingham area for 15 years. With one of those houses, the normal water table was about 6 inches below the basement slab, so putting in a sump literally meant trying to pump a brook dry, and I'll assure you that doesn't work. We had less flooding during wet times, but the table still rose fast enough that the sump wouldn't keep up. So we had half an inch of water for a few hours instead of four inches of water for a day. That can be just as damaging, especially to your psyche. I ended up raising the floor on treated wood and letting the occasional flood just drain out.

I know a civil engineer might be expensive, but it may be worth the investment.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The ceiling is too low for a raised floor. I think I could live with 1/2 inch of water if I just used treated/sanded cement rather than tile. I was already planning on using bathroom wallboard and treated lumber for the walls.

I may dig a hole near the basement outside when the snow melts and see where the water table is at. I guess I could get a free estimate from one of those waterproofing companies and see what the recommendation is then do it myself. I know this will require a multi-pronged solution.

Dave, I really like the first plan you whipped up.

[DKS]

Dave, I really like the first plan you whipped up.

Glad you like it. Laid out like that, I think you'll agree that your layout doesn't look as segmented as you might have thought.

[Bsklarski]

Do you have a garage with space? My oil tank and furnace is in my garage, also easy to repair and move things if they need to be replaced or repaired

Brian

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The garage is detached and built in 1940. I can't even fit my Mustang in it because there is only 6 inces of room to open the car door. Joy's Civic will fit with about 4" of clearence between the bumper and roll up door.

[SebastianLee]

Calling a few local guys to come out and getting some feedback is a good idea.  At least it will give you some ideas and a ballpark for a budget.  This website is pretty good for some ideas also (i've never dealt with company, but the site does cover most of the basics).  Subfloors don't need to take up as much space as you think, so don't completely discount the idea yet.