Noob glue question

[lock4244]

I'm slowly building up the courage to do some actual modelling and was at the LHS on the weekend and it occured to me... I haven't a clue as to what glue to use. My question is what glue(s) is/are best for adding detail parts such as those by BLMA or Miniatures by Eric (cast metal parts), and what is best for glueing plastic to plastic? Also, what would I use to glue cast metal steps onto a Kato model... that slippery plastic.

I'm getting the itch to see if I can model at all or if I'm forever tied to RTR stuff. Would like some CN SD40's... started one about 5 years ago.

Thanks guys.

[SirTainly]

I use Superglue (loctite stuff) put a little on a piece of card and then apply it with a toothpick/pin etc.

Tenax is supposed to be good for uses with styrene - I find it evaporates to quickly though, but that could be environmental issues.

[wm3798]

I keep a bottle of Plastruct Plasticweld around...  I don't think there's a plastic made that this stuff can't bond.  Works on everything from DPM buildings to MT coupler boxes, and everything in between.  Excellent for building with Evergreen stock, as well as Plastruct.

I also go to the Dollar Tree and stock up on Crazy Glue, both the runny kind and the gel.  You can usually find it in packs 3 for a dollar.

Of course, Elmer also has a place at the table...

Lee

[Puddington]

CA, both thick and thin, depending on the application.

[Iain]

For styrene to styrene, MEK works well.  It basically melts the plastic slightly so that it bonds together.  Otherwise CA (superglue), both thick and thin.

[Kisatchie]

There are various kinds of super glue, depending on what you want to join.

For styrene, I always used Testor's liquid cement.

http://www.testors.com/product/136633/3502/_/Liquid_Cement_for_Plastic

[Robbman]

Tenax is supposed to be good for uses with styrene - I find it evaporates to quickly though, but that could be environmental issues.

Are you using the glass pipet applicators?

[Walkercolt]

I've had lots of problems with "no-name" and bargain super glue(CA). You have no idea how old it is or how it was stored in transit. If it's gotten hot, it's no good. We started carrying the Mercury Brand of CA, and it comes with a 100% satifaction guarentee, no questions asked. It's no higher than any others we had that turned into "rocks" on the shelf. Pacer makes two good CA products too. A CA made for plastic and one mixed with black rubber that flexes somewhat. And don't forget about two-part epoxies. There is also an exspensive adhesive that will bond "enginerring plastics" like Delrin for truck frames and handrails. Last I checked, the starter pack was about $40, but it works.

[wm3798]

I'm sure the boutique glue is a wonderful thing, but I can make a lot of trips to the dollar tree with $40...  I've never had bottles that hardened before it got to me, and with 3 for a buck, if I do, I'm not out a whole lot.

Lee

[lock4244]

Thanks for the responses, guys. Some food for thought. Next up will be painting a decalling questions 

[SirTainly]

oh, of course I should also mention

<scottymason>canopy glue</scottymason>