TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: up1950s on March 25, 2016, 07:26:53 PM
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X-E-I2_pL1TqaG6HfSvmbpop_fr4jzR_rFlI4q3DdM-mSmcsEHwj24rpscIoI2fykTBBOiEqERuhe5BJVE6qGPzrVMdH9eWCzbmlRIPi2qaXfa-ta7mJDOA9YtfFyKj-bk7fsdU4HszHFYlmqLQuwljraWfNQ4LzQQ0FgvNFpCDHLvscXXoPpo9QAptRmnnBZXm5isvPrzdFn6WMp-OvRcZojEZvRlHJNwaFrdBYbGIuPssaaQxdNdzgsuTEhCY_QBxgUOB5zcvfl_XIkw_MHAM43JrFJGAc-fa7zr0I5FYTyPYA_GQBSBrWbC8wboalpfjakFcnSVFEZzGUf_a1GKnISHaeTY5qmTL-LD-ndD3IVcK6RW_-JXfNP9D1tfPLAuy_6bRx9I8rT3800Ljg0b2aDaE-sY_-zBSByoQSGm829KfpGPT67Icg6AhaCnlWDqr3BTV0KtGkaKBRvG-WcBvJjVF_cyJVlPywVa9nw9YH-gG0lTlIzG9tvvMjYFC_6GB68xLk3jVOXJLichSXkqjIvrqZvgJspiCvLOxJtc204el9PDw0wSnR0Tp6XXoisYBAdg=w800-h657-no)
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Expence?
At first I thought it was an overhead rail crossing. :?
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Got home from work tonite, found the April Craftsman in my mailbox, with this in it :o
Max Magliaro, you rock! You make us N scalers proud (whether we deserve it or not).
Beautiful work in N scale, or any scale. Wow! Congratulations and thank you!
Otto K.[attachimg=1]
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For some reason I decided I needed a CB&Q waycar...or three. Anyway, this is a Micro-Trains kit-bash. My question to you Q guys out there is; Do you know of any 28' wood waycars painted red with the full color logo? If so, what road number did it have? Thanks!
(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/fullsizerender-3.126792/full)
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Expence?
At first I thought it was an overhead rail crossing. :?
Sorry , thanks , fixed .
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38677.0;attach=7396;image)
Wow! The amount and fineness of the detail could easily make this model passable as a finely-detailed 0 Scale brass model! That is amazing!
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I bought a fat bike last week.
This is train related because I rode on ballast where the trail crosses tracks. With 4.8 inch tires, I can float over anything.
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/12512344_10110415183675314_3227683925744253920_n.jpg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=1ebe264d91bd010cc80207f80cf8402e&oe=577D59EA)
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Spent the week skiing at Crested Butte and came home to an eBay score of more varnish for the Colorado Midland:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qAoBr_ydbHA/VvXkXJPAljI/AAAAAAAART0/QdY3xMAGxKgCSBKPBAYADg_4L1wfuQ7SwCCo/s640-Ic42/12718295_1063809536991251_8461285059867201965_n.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PSrPFv7ggag/VvXkXOxo9rI/AAAAAAAARTs/spj56ytfBwknjyroTyga3URhvj3fLK2wQCCo/s640-Ic42/10639370_1063809516991253_1266255243905508959_n.jpg)
I'll have to replace the truck-mounted couplers with body-mounts if these cars are to negotiate the 10" radius curves of the Aspen Branch. But, they run on the mainline loop for now:
You can tell I've been messing around with mocking up a smelter on the one spur.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-akodTbDXE3o/VvXkXAJkO1I/AAAAAAAARTw/g_TccKumw2gH-96SOIOhJSAcsFJmwGMggCCo/s512-Ic42/1934487_1063830833655788_7844017509393372418_n.jpg)
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Spent the week
1. Getting the flu
2. Wiring....the flu was more fun
3. Finishing the single window coach
4. Suffering with the flu
5. Weathering at 3:00 am because of the flu.....
6. Adding do dads to the mill because I'm finished but I'm not....
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/Kanto%20Sub%20Division/CNs%20finest%20rs_zpsyiyboath.jpg)
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/Kanto%20Sub%20Division/CP%20combo%20door%20rs_zpsuixqfbdu.jpg)
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/Kanto%20Sub%20Division/1924058_10206077611566704_7846742749591851244_n_zpsjdafvrxy.jpg)
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/Kanto%20Sub%20Division/10314505_208171829546601_6750104081513896553_n-1_zpsnpzycdf4.jpg)
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/Kanto%20Sub%20Division/Nice%20bright%20whites%20rs_zpszowxpzse.jpg)
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Yesterday I received two James Train Parts (https://jamestrainparts.wordpress.com/shop/locomotive-shells/alco-c-855/) Alco C855 shells and chassis mod bits. The shells are in Shapeways' FXD, with the chassis extensions are sintered stainless steel and bronze:
(http://www.everywherewest.com/JTP_C855-1.jpg)
(http://www.everywherewest.com/JTP_C855-2.jpg)
The shells go on Con-Cor U50 mechanisms, extended by cutting the frame and inserting the modification parts which include cup gear extensions (rather ingenious approach!). I don't have the etched brass detail parts yet, which explains the missing handrails, grabs and walkways.
These photos are after the Bestine soak and a thorough brushing. As you can see, the detail is incredible. You can make out just a little bit of the process layering on the side of the cab in the top picture, but it's very minor and I suspect will disappear under the primer.
This model IMO showcases how far along we are with 3D printing. I haven't had much opportunity lately for actual modeling, but I'm clearing off the bench and calendar for these. Hopefully in the time James wraps-up the B-unit artwork I should have three frames modified and ready to seriously work on these amazing models.
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continued with my street scene. I modified the walthers Geo Roberts Printing kit some and am crossing the road, but i need some ideas on how to close/dress the street opening up.
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u602/57miguel/buildings/DSCF4245_zpsz87rrnpb.jpg)
hope to make the street disappear under the extension
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u602/57miguel/buildings/DSCF4243_zps55pufjdl.jpg)
built up the walls and will fill in the brick work and windows next
(http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u602/57miguel/buildings/DSCF4244_zpsxv8lpsir.jpg)
i am tempted to put a mirror against the backdrop, inside the overhang, but not sure if that will be needed or help.
any input is appreciated
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I've seen cases where city streets do go through buildings, so that wouldn't be an unlikely scene. Given the way the side of the building curves into the wall, you might want to stripe the street so that it curves the same way.
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George Washington bridge east side does 4 of them .
This also
(http://2xkcvt35vyxycuy7x23e0em1a5g.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Helmsley-Building.jpg)
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For the road thru the building, perhaps a mirror would work quite well as it would extend the appearance of the street well beyond the other side of the building. You could even cut a vehicle in half and attach it to the mirror, so the reflection makes up the other half of the car. ;) I believe there's mirror material available that doesn't look thick like a bathroom mirror. I remember someone doing something similar with a motel scene quite some time ago.
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Spent the week
1. Getting the flu
2. Wiring....the flu was more fun
3. Finishing the single window coach
4. Suffering with the flu
5. Weathering at 3:00 am because of the flu.....
6. Adding do dads to the mill because I'm finished but I'm not....
(http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h463/Puddingtonvalley/Kanto%20Sub%20Division/CNs%20finest%20rs_zpsyiyboath.jpg)
Another CN car on the Puddington RR ???
The flu ( or, memory test here the Flo) must be getting to you .
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For the street into the building I would just put a building wall inside against the wall and let the road taper to a point. Unless it is direct view it should work out.
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I painted a river bottom this week. Went from this :scared:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MflKx3w_APY/VvSlIX_izwI/AAAAAAAAPPM/5PYru8IPTjkdLL5h9dgvwlZgWzt-ufHxQCCo/s800-Ic42/20160324_221742.jpg)
to this 8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Lz9k0Bq-iQU/VvTbekZz7MI/AAAAAAAAPQA/_wOfCLQHbk4IEq2HPXHX5AAktupAV5wPQCCo/s800-Ic42/20160325_021430.jpg)
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very nice Chris. and thats all just paint, or did you pour something on top??
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Just paint, will add "water" later.
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Gonna put submerged and semi submerged stuff in before the pour ? Bike , fishes , rotten row boat , stones , box .
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I'm not going crazy just plopping down Mod Podge like this:
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Getting ready to start adding pilot details to this lineup...
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/arbomambo/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/1618492_1687959891477077_2555561843896881615_n_zps6xtk5mt8.jpg) (http://s166.photobucket.com/user/arbomambo/media/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/1618492_1687959891477077_2555561843896881615_n_zps6xtk5mt8.jpg.html)
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Got the last 12 of my FVM rib side boxcars decaled with individual numbers. I have about 30 of these now. Decals compliments of Mike Skibbe.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
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Another CN car on the Puddington RR ???
The flu ( or, memory test here the Flo) must be getting to you .
I just can't pretend that CN doesn't exist.... if wishing made it so.... I can, however, make as much fun as is humanly possible of "Crash Natural" and enjoy every minute of it...... :D
CN, the Montreal Canadiens of my railroad..... Booooooo! :trollface:
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For some reason I decided I needed a CB&Q waycar...or three. Anyway, this is a Micro-Trains kit-bash. My question to you Q guys out there is; Do you know of any 28' wood waycars painted red with the full color logo? If so, what road number did it have? Thanks!
(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/fullsizerender-3.126792/full)
Nice work Andrew. Would like to know what was involved.
I know you posted this question over on the Q list. I'm at work so I can't check my resources now but if you don't hear anything in a day or two I'll look through my books and photos and see what I can come up with.
Bob
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Still waiting for some shop time to get my cabinet boxes cut out, I started getting the layout cleaned off and staged in hopes of another Ops session. While I was doing this an old nagging feeling arose which was the need for some loads on those empty open cars like flat cars, gons and open hoppers. One of the industries, Heavy Metal needs flat cars with steel loads. I have enough flat cars but was a little short on Bulkhead flats.
Started snooping around to purchase a few more and couldn't believe the cost of them these days! :scared:
After digging through my detail stash I found some old Red Caboose bulkhead kits from years ago. They made some nice bulkhead kits to convert flat cars back in the day before anyone made them. So I sat down at the bench one night got three Athearn 53'ers converted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zjxO9krPxrIC4Jm7XgJfFlUGTA5hwLdmghDUyNnnHsOpgpjCBLK5A_CEizo6xWugfvgwJKoQuVoIcJDt6X5D4uN_GUlStIRn6XZIW1zCeRiKNSEpLVTG240suXDjYuLmRt5S06jwek_KMqsV1AMkg6NFzpFp2lS0Gfi4LCxWNBNOctmLF5_7AP7z75Leuvs85fGRDcSKtG-AwS0W6KWms4lU269l_oEnR29n0bdTEErsitn66iB_hzrV__5Fi5lKp8OZdSyc_ugoCkwb9n50EYgZxjN30_EIItGXf6SZ-plQmp7avg4DHJl7Qc3fa1FcswJoLdVOq9GXIvnk8GuaqKkJM2QBk4bXmkycHrQyFFXyXskPuGQSIwnNyqZvXMDkU6xygMxl5fPbQe4hUwVOMZIaXSRwGRq1J5D6SjrgJkm2gM3-2Mc5Ys7LDn5E1rhbWI8uJMe_AxiDFubVryNKk2-hrfKjIO0UsWfkmvoUvnjoeF6yZBE2uf24P0q93SsxLMBV9kkq4y055urjltcJJjITIa0bh1fhRO_UnGX7jSvVjg55tudu-42XzLdYb16ldvhN=w800-h600-no)
You can see more on the Blog (http://thelittlerockline.blogspot.com/2016/03/bulkhead-flats-anyone.html)
Last night I played around with something I've been wanting to do for years! That is to do something about those FAKE looking wood decks!
I know there are some Peel-N-stick kits made from laser cut wood that look awesome, but at $3.49 per deck, I figured I could weather them myself for a fraction of that.
So I visited my old friend Google in search of "Making plastic look like wood" and stumbled across an article where a guy used cheap acrylic paint and a wash to turn plastic molded decks into realistic looking wood decks.
Here's a couple of quick shots until I get things posted to the blog.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qBhJ-_eGrtJPjN3rXD8UQONj_0_viUnvAzQl6cxr7sj5knWALsIUEMLuxsvmQ3VfCfXSSce7mF9EQKKfGH8WhwWhU5WTxMUI_0kOcYJq4NQp0PBH7GCYqFyuuX3FDcvmteY8XWXwp4GBTuwZ9pecHRNwBBhsgWpXgCMSsg1nPQyJ4iTtlTH9zzXBFSyghgf5vL6Ove6zosoUehPWLCWVegv4t1HFYaobUih3WMq2wiBDJWtwlkuYclPfj5q5Xkvz3p__sHMM0I8ySloW8exZRT5ZfI3HI0d4m71-2DizKyVR-5xXkm6xu2ZW1dWbLMHI-YTbgiG5ruQlsY5cp9XVoYWdfVHYZC-miPlSQCqAAbyv8DnebU-LWQYVzNqXWa8Xa1VL5XjSUw9FNkcxyd8gSqMYX1gA_-mZAN-Y_BBgdlQrmeqqdqZeLGv1SnyNs7-5Zsup1wC675bKDAC7q3yhly4CwxJCuzIxx1qpM5V1lXXwPxDYz4PjnJkooOy6amTsZ5VGY0nrLN1DrgrZShI8q3wz0Hizi_2Tz2CGrK0PKHmemoqFrGvH3LwLTkpFXv7sE2VW=w800-h396-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IiyFHjVq38n38IgD2owL7HtWVpaz0SoTlGjpH4yUfVAPvoU9IQ5UoqQDvaB56RBaldJTdjVn5URmdmoB_uJ9wkt15mInFvzhUJVvDtE31bAlCqjoa40Cfs3ltPh4f7cQgKRre91XywwAxZdY5W7gf4Mxzhg9De-IvuKku99Xf0ExXaiQGmo8kenNUzEVIEPsWSxdZhgKxEge8lFn9Rd5rbJmeKS-OgmrObzCSTlfNs97M6QF2yj59vVyAxx_iNOvdbuBPxbZ3yw8nzGTkJXhSbtePLg-oKyLQ34OxQLDHYLXt0O1NMjCglt9yEL4dcgvWCnpxn8VH3bmrFSe1Ch6QDDheNU_L8toypxmYa5amgE7yy_e--qiZJa-Z0tg_i9QQARhI4mG3PRpuIxbgYwA9C2IaKdVN98Bo4epoVKbi6PDpIpybXtX8sFgOE7igXqEtElPoAT3pK6hyaYarOe6YhEeRhiGKjinG4xvCnTupRm03cqqkHn_ZtGLjS-YObBoTDLW1hLUFK3AA-JY05ac732Hv3tXymt5dnt1bsIZpmjCU3ZDeAaNzz-arnY4iaVKuIFb=w800-h457-no)
May not be perfect, but beats the hell out of the factory, mono colored decks!
Next I'll have to get out my weathering kits and attack the whole cars.
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"For some reason I decided I needed a CB&Q waycar...or three. Anyway, this is a Micro-Trains kit-bash. My question to you Q guys out there is; Do you know of any 28' wood waycars painted red with the full color logo? If so, what road number did it have? Thanks!"
Andrew-
I have a pretty extensive collection of known CB&Q Waycar photos mostly from Joe Douda whose collection was a large part of The Burlington Waycars book.
Going through them and the book I cannot find any standard 28’ waycars with the full color (Red Black & White) herald.
Most of the Chinese Red painted 28’ with Burlington Gothic lettering waycars had the plain white herald with no background:
14118
14584
14096
Others had the same with a black background which made a black edge outside of the herald:
14248 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
A few had the white herald with the white herald border broken by stencil ties:
14602
Others had the same with a black background which made a black edge outside of the herald:
14591
14148 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
14248 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
There were three window cars that had the full color herald but they were stretched to 30’ when they had the steel underframes applied….the extra length added on the long end before the windows (14240, 14160 with white stripe under number to indicate local service), on the short end before the cupola, or sometimes in between the center or either end window!
If you did not shorten the Microtrains body to 28’ then you can use:
14539 ....but, as luck would have it, the window is offset on the other end of the car from the wide space you have between the front and center window.
Nice job on the overall look, especially the cupola!! The Bachmann old-timer trucks are decent stand-ins but Eric Cox has the correct CB&Q #7 trucks available on Shapeways and they are excellent....he also has the longer similar #2 passenger car truck.
Best regards,
Charlie Vlk
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CORRECTED TEXT...PLEASE IGNORE PREVIOUS
"For some reason I decided I needed a CB&Q waycar...or three. Anyway, this is a Micro-Trains kit-bash. My question to you Q guys out there is; Do you know of any 28' wood waycars painted red with the full color logo? If so, what road number did it have? Thanks!"
Andrew-
I have a pretty extensive collection of known CB&Q Waycar photos mostly from Joe Douda whose collection was a large part of The Burlington Waycars book.
Going through them and the book I cannot find any standard 28’ waycars with the full color (Red Black & White) herald.
Most of the Chinese Red painted 28’ with Burlington Gothic lettering waycars had the plain white herald with no background:
14118
14584
14096
Others had the same with a black background which made a black edge outside of the herald:
14248 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
A few had the white herald with the white herald border broken by stencil ties:
14602
Others had the same with a black background which made a black edge outside of the herald:
14591
14148 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
There were three window cars that had the full color herald but they were stretched to 30’ when they had the steel underframes applied….the extra length added on the long end before the windows (14240, 14160 with white stripe under number to indicate local service), on the short end before the cupola, or sometimes in between the center or either end window!
If you did not shorten the Microtrains body to 28’ then you can use:
14539 ....but, as luck would have it, the window is offset on the other end of the car from the wide space you have between the front and center window.
Nice job on the overall look, especially the cupola!! The Bachmann old-timer trucks are decent stand-ins but Eric Cox has the correct CB&Q #7 trucks available on Shapeways and they are excellent....he also has the longer similar #2 passenger car truck.
Best regards,
Charlie Vlk
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Starting to build up the scenery and sight lines in the Thompson Canyon.
(http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/scottl16/20160326_145710_zpsjavlaa2q.jpg) (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/scottl16/media/20160326_145710_zpsjavlaa2q.jpg.html)
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Oooh :o
Otto
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(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper1.jpg)
First casting and model of a Union Pacific "Ocean" series Pullman Standard Sleeper. These cars were used on the "City of Los Angeles" but were not included in the Kato set. They will be available from Skytop Models once I get my website updated this week sometime.
(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper2.jpg)
Check out the rivet detail on the roof. I used Archer rivet decals on the master model and I think they reproduced very nicely on the casting.
(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper3.jpg)
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"For some reason I decided I needed a CB&Q waycar...or three. Anyway, this is a Micro-Trains kit-bash. My question to you Q guys out there is; Do you know of any 28' wood waycars painted red with the full color logo? If so, what road number did it have? Thanks!"
Andrew-
I have a pretty extensive collection of known CB&Q Waycar photos mostly from Joe Douda whose collection was a large part of The Burlington Waycars book.
Going through them and the book I cannot find any standard 28’ waycars with the full color (Red Black & White) herald.
Most of the Chinese Red painted 28’ with Burlington Gothic lettering waycars had the plain white herald with no background:
14118
14584
14096
Others had the same with a black background which made a black edge outside of the herald:
14248 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
A few had the white herald with the white herald border broken by stencil ties:
14602
Others had the same with a black background which made a black edge outside of the herald:
14591
14148 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
14248 with white stripe under number to indicate local service
There were three window cars that had the full color herald but they were stretched to 30’ when they had the steel underframes applied….the extra length added on the long end before the windows (14240, 14160 with white stripe under number to indicate local service), on the short end before the cupola, or sometimes in between the center or either end window!
If you did not shorten the Microtrains body to 28’ then you can use:
14539 ....but, as luck would have it, the window is offset on the other end of the car from the wide space you have between the front and center window.
Nice job on the overall look, especially the cupola!! The Bachmann old-timer trucks are decent stand-ins but Eric Cox has the correct CB&Q #7 trucks available on Shapeways and they are excellent....he also has the longer similar #2 passenger car truck.
Best regards,
Charlie Vlk
I knew I could count on you Charlie! Thanks!
I did start with a Micro Trains car and removed the last window to shorten it to 28'. The cupola was removed from an Atlas model and then overlaid with styrene to get it close. The windows were cut up from Grant Line pieces. I found by altering the under frame so the steps were outside the body improved the wheel spacing. It won't stand up to the rivet counters but its better than anything available ready to run.
(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/img_3681.126795/full)
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I decided to work on some weathering once again, while I muster up the whatever it is to hardwire a couple of LifeLike SW8/9/1200's after last weeks debacle.
Here are 3 Southdown cement hoppers, using Weathering Solutions decals and a couple layers of wash.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1676/26054861125_14610a5dbc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FGnYtx)20160326_184104 (https://flic.kr/p/FGnYtx) by Adam Henry (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130827720@N03/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/25961327382_3a0dd65bba_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fy7A9N)20160326_172015 (https://flic.kr/p/Fy7A9N) by Adam Henry (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130827720@N03/), on Flickr
And here is a Cargill grain hopper. Graffiti and seams are hand done with pens, finished with a wash also.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1603/25781007370_0aa4a6411d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Fhbpi5)20160326_171751 (https://flic.kr/p/Fhbpi5) by Adam Henry (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130827720@N03/), on Flickr
It's a little off from prototype picture I found, but I say good enough from 3'.
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2391546
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(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper1.jpg)
First casting and model of a Union Pacific "Ocean" series Pullman Standard Sleeper. These cars were used on the "City of Los Angeles" but were not included in the Kato set. They will be available from Skytop Models once I get my website updated this week sometime.
(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper2.jpg)
Check out the rivet detail on the roof. I used Archer rivet decals on the master model and I think they reproduced very nicely on the casting.
(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper3.jpg)
Bill, beautiful work, as always. UP had five of these cars, blt. '53 and '55; some of the most modern sleepers on the road. Nice detail work,
Otto K.
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So I visited my old friend Google in search of "Making plastic look like wood" and stumbled across an article where a guy used cheap acrylic paint and a wash to turn plastic molded decks into realistic looking wood decks.
Got a link you are willing to share ?
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Bill, beautiful work, as always. UP had five of these cars, blt. '53 and '55; some of the most modern sleepers on the road. Nice detail work,
Otto K.
Thanks Otto. Three cars were built by PS and two by AC&F. The AC&F cars were nearly identical.
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Another great car Bill... thanks so much for all you do!!! Now to go digging for shots of both builders to see how close the details really are...
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Bill's new car has forced (??) me to buy a CoLA set. Then I will need two E units. Your new car is really going to cost me.
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No modeling from me this week, but, I can say I was rather distracted:
(http://photos.jdulaney.com/libreplanet-2016/2.png)
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Got a link you are willing to share ?
Yes, sorry.
The author used "Dye-na-flo" for the gray, I just used a brown and black acrylic paint and thinned it so I got a little more brown.
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/decks/
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"I believe there's mirror material available that doesn't look thick like a bathroom mirror."
That's a "First Surface" or "Front Surface" mirror, usually used in optical systems where one can't have "ghost" reflections from the front of the glass interfering with the main reflection. They tend to be fragile, because there's nothing to protect the reflective surface, but inside a model building they shouldn't get scratched. Any good mirror shop should be able to get one, and they may have a small piece left from trimming a larger mirror.
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(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper1.jpg)
First casting and model of a Union Pacific "Ocean" series Pullman Standard Sleeper. These cars were used on the "City of Los Angeles" but were not included in the Kato set. They will be available from Skytop Models once I get my website updated this week sometime.
(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper2.jpg)
Check out the rivet detail on the roof. I used Archer rivet decals on the master model and I think they reproduced very nicely on the casting.
(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper3.jpg)
Just what I've been waiting for! I'll be getting a couple of these from you when they're available for sure!
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
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I knew I could count on you Charlie! Thanks!
I did start with a Micro Trains car and removed the last window to shorten it to 28'. The cupola was removed from an Atlas model and then overlaid with styrene to get it close. The windows were cut up from Grant Line pieces. I found by altering the under frame so the steps were outside the body improved the wheel spacing. It won't stand up to the rivet counters but its better than anything available ready to run.
(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/img_3681.126795/full)
Here are some photos of the CB&Q 5' wood beam trucks Charlie is referring to from Eric Cox (Panamint) at Shapeways. I've used them on all my UP CA's and CA-1 kitbashes, along with several CA-3 and CA-4 superdetailing projects, and they are EXCELLENT! UP called them "Q" trucks and used them on all of their mainline cabooses until the outside swing-hangar truck was introduced on the CA-5 in 1953. Some of these wooden beam trucks persisted until the 80's and were well-known for their superior ride quality.
I used Bachmann Old-Timer trucks for years, but I was never happy with their lack of brake shoes & hangars and their "tippy-toe" look. The Eric Cox trucks have all the details and are exactly what I hoped for for many years...
Photo (1) Panamint 5' CB&Q trucks on my latest unfinished kitbashed UP CA-1 (Notice the brake hangar detailing):
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U1vLuh4pJ5Q/VveTUJhLV7I/AAAAAAAAEPQ/yJ7JMHACxbsC421mQxJw3Fbss0k3ZTZgQCCo/s000-Ic42/ca-1%2BQ-trucks%2B006.jpg)
Photo (2) Unpainted FUD Panament 5' CB&Q trucks on my superdetailed, unfinished Goldenwest Models CA-3/4:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FwznCjcuXDk/VveTgA6LTJI/AAAAAAAAEPk/4UtvbhPvHo41NavPiwF5JyokA1Yb9_o0QCCo/s000-Ic42/ca-3%2BQ-trucks%2B006a.jpg)
Photo (3) Panamint 5' CB&Q trucks on finished kitbashed & superdetailed UP CA-1:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iSsxQItFwLU/VveS31LdQCI/AAAAAAAAEPE/sdM6SP1Z97kV1RYbhvA7ugDaANierrKDQCCo/s000-Ic42/ca-1%2BQ-trucks%2B004a.jpg)
These trucks have relegated my modified (with brake hangars) Bachmann Old-Timer trucks to the circular file and are available with MT Pin mounting holes, screw holes and offset holes for mounting on IMR CA-3/4 cabooses. The detailing is incredible, but be careful when you get these as some details are so small and fragile, it's easy to break it off. After they're painted, the detailing becomes much stronger.
I'm using narrow FVM Lo-Pro metal wheelsets, and they roll very freely with these truck models, which are vastly superior to ANY truck model I've seen in either brass or injection molded plastic.
I think replacing the Old-Timer trucks with the Panamint trucks would noticeably improve Andrew's nice CB&Q caboose and additionally be easy to do. :)
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
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Dang Mr. Denton; that's a wonderful piece of work and one beautiful rail car. Between this and the single window coach its been a good week for N scale passenger car development!
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Here are some photos of the CB&Q 5' wood beam trucks Charlie is referring to from Eric Cox (Panamint) at Shapeways. I've used them on all my UP CA's and CA-1 kitbashes, along with several CA-3 and CA-4 superdetailing projects, and they are EXCELLENT! UP called them "Q" trucks and used them on all of their mainline cabooses until the outside swing-hangar truck was introduced on the CA-5 in 1953. Some of these wooden beam trucks persisted until the 80's and were well-known for their superior ride quality.
I used Bachmann Old-Timer trucks for years, but I was never happy with their lack of brake shoes & hangars and their "tippy-toe" look. The Eric Cox trucks have all the details and are exactly what I hoped for for many years...
Photo (1) Panamint 5' CB&Q trucks on my latest unfinished kitbashed UP CA-1 (Notice the brake hangar detailing):
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U1vLuh4pJ5Q/VveTUJhLV7I/AAAAAAAAEPQ/yJ7JMHACxbsC421mQxJw3Fbss0k3ZTZgQCCo/s000-Ic42/ca-1%2BQ-trucks%2B006.jpg)
Photo (2) Unpainted FUD Panament 5' CB&Q trucks on my superdetailed, unfinished Goldenwest Models CA-3/4:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FwznCjcuXDk/VveTgA6LTJI/AAAAAAAAEPk/4UtvbhPvHo41NavPiwF5JyokA1Yb9_o0QCCo/s000-Ic42/ca-3%2BQ-trucks%2B006a.jpg)
Photo (3) Panamint 5' CB&Q trucks on finished kitbashed & superdetailed UP CA-1:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iSsxQItFwLU/VveS31LdQCI/AAAAAAAAEPE/sdM6SP1Z97kV1RYbhvA7ugDaANierrKDQCCo/s000-Ic42/ca-1%2BQ-trucks%2B004a.jpg)
These trucks have relegated my modified (with brake hangars) Bachmann Old-Timer trucks to the circular file and are available with MT Pin mounting holes, screw holes and offset holes for mounting on IMR CA-3/4 cabooses. The detailing is incredible, but be careful when you get these as some details are so small and fragile, it's easy to break it off. After they're painted, the detailing becomes much stronger.
I'm using narrow Feather River Lo-Pro metal wheelsets, and they roll very freely with these truck models, which are vastly superior to ANY truck model I've seen in either brass or injection molded plastic.
I think replacing the Old-Timer trucks with the Panamint trucks would noticeably improve Andrew's nice CB&Q caboose and additionally be easy to do. :)
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
Bob, how sturdy are those FUD trucks? I have had some real issues with vehicles and other parts being very brittle. I imagine these caboose trucks need kid gloves.
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A couple of updates on the UPRR Geneva Sub featuring installation of signals and a bit of scenery.
/>
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Not modeling wise from me, other than 3D modeling. I've been working on a NP SD45 cab and a NS C40-8.5W cab.
(https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/t31.0-8/12525469_10207599354514751_4711825237941050293_o.jpg)
(https://scontent.ford1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/t31.0-8/1496210_10207471061187498_4384030386414246675_o.jpg)
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I'll Have to consider the Shapeways trucks. The durability is a concern. Here is another Q waycar to exit the paint shop. It still needs some light weathering.
(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/cbqorange.126800/full)
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This might interest you @Blazeman
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1545/25472327593_315db3c580_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ENUkxX)20160327_152232 (https://flic.kr/p/ENUkxX) by Adam Henry (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130827720@N03/), on Flickr
Got two Lifelike SW9/1200 DCC'd with TCS M1 decoders. I milled out area where DC light board fits in so decoder would sit down in same location. I removed LED and resistor from that board and wired them to the white and blue wires. Had fewer problems doing these then the "drop in" decoder from last week. Go figure :? :facepalm:
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Bob, how sturdy are those FUD trucks? I have had some real issues with vehicles and other parts being very brittle. I imagine these caboose trucks need kid gloves.
I've broken the brake hangar and one brake shoe from my ham-handed, sausage-finger handling when I got my first batch a few years ago while removing the wax with a soft toothbrush. Nowadays, I just let 'em soak for a few hours in Bestine, swishing them around periodically until they get totally non-translucent.
Ya have to flex the frames a bit (a LITTLE bit) to get the wheelset's axle points in...and this is not a difficult thing to do...and I haven't broken anything off doing this several times on my first frame experimenting around with it.
As far as everyday handling is concerned, the fragile bits are the brake hangars on the ends, so when the trucks are mounted, only the sturdy sides are readily accessible, and I haven't broken any details off the sides.
However, I have a tendency to handle my cars with my fingers as little as possible, BUT, I do pack everything up two or three times a year to go to shows, particularly my superdetailed stuff...and I haven't had any breakage doing that either.
All in all, breakage has not been a problem at all with these trucks. I use Kadee "Grease 'Em" graphite lube on the axle points and haven't had any failures from wear either.
So, my verdict is "No Problemo" as far as handling breakage or wear is concerned with these truck frames, especially after they're de-waxed, painted and installed.
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
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Gonna put submerged and semi submerged stuff in before the pour ? Bike , fishes , rotten row boat , stones , box .
You forgot shopping carts..
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You forgot shopping carts..
An Ohio river in the 50s? Forget the trash, figure out a way to light it on fire.
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An Ohio river in the 50s? Forget the trash, figure out a way to light it on fire.
That was in 1969. We Ohioians hadn't dumped enough pollution into our rivers yet to enable them to catch fire in the 50's.
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"I believe there's mirror material available that doesn't look thick like a bathroom mirror."
That's a "First Surface" or "Front Surface" mirror, usually used in optical systems where one can't have "ghost" reflections from the front of the glass interfering with the main reflection.
These guys are great. You can custom-order the measurements you want, and you can even get them in acrylic. Getting one that could be drilled and cut with a hacksaw solved my lifetime problem of putting a signal bridge just over a hole in the mirror for a 'naked' exit.
http://firstsurfacemirror.com/
The mirror here is about 12x18. There's a hole on the inside of the signal bridge for the track to exit. Half of the signal bridge is mounted around the hole edge. I just redid this entire mirror area with a first-surface a few months back. It's really hard to see the line, I upgraded the signal bridge to tricolor LED displays, and it's a precise fit now to the mirror hole.
(http://www.randgust.com/flagexit4.jpg)
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I'll Have to consider the Shapeways trucks. The durability is a concern. Here is another Q waycar to exit the paint shop. It still needs some light weathering.
(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/cbqorange.126800/full)
Beautiful NE10 there, Andrew. Outstanding work.
Bob
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Here are some photos of the CB&Q 5' wood beam trucks Charlie is referring to from Eric Cox (Panamint) at Shapeways. I've used them on all my UP CA's and CA-1 kitbashes, along with several CA-3 and CA-4 superdetailing projects, and they are EXCELLENT! UP called them "Q" trucks and used them on all of their mainline cabooses until the outside swing-hangar truck was introduced on the CA-5 in 1953. Some of these wooden beam trucks persisted until the 80's and were well-known for their superior ride quality.
I used Bachmann Old-Timer trucks for years, but I was never happy with their lack of brake shoes & hangars and their "tippy-toe" look. The Eric Cox trucks have all the details and are exactly what I hoped for for many years...
These trucks have relegated my modified (with brake hangars) Bachmann Old-Timer trucks to the circular file and are available with MT Pin mounting holes, screw holes and offset holes for mounting on IMR CA-3/4 cabooses. The detailing is incredible, but be careful when you get these as some details are so small and fragile, it's easy to break it off. After they're painted, the detailing becomes much stronger.
I'm using narrow Feather River Lo-Pro metal wheelsets, and they roll very freely with these truck models, which are vastly superior to ANY truck model I've seen in either brass or injection molded plastic.
I think replacing the Old-Timer trucks with the Panamint trucks would noticeably improve Andrew's nice CB&Q caboose and additionally be easy to do. :)
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
Im glad you like these, since I just ordered some about a week ago!
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Reading WEEKEND UPDATES minds: Got a Walther's Soo Line 53' Bulkhead Flat
at an antique mall in Cashmere, WA. It will be hauling two new John Deere tractors
when complete, which I saw on the BNSF local road switch last week. Need to
apply the turn plastic into wood technique and need tie down examples? The
tractors are almost N scale, they are key chains that John Deere sells here.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160324_1034221_zpsd7quh0fe.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160324_1034221_zpsd7quh0fe.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160306_1128311_zpsjae6f3dc.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160306_1128311_zpsjae6f3dc.jpg.html)
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Reading WEEKEND UPDATES minds: Got a Walther's Soo Line 53' Bulkhead Flat
at an antique mall in Cashmere, WA. It will be hauling two new John Deere tractors
when complete, which I saw on the BNSF local road switch last week. Need to
apply the turn plastic into wood technique and need tie down examples? The
tractors are almost N scale, they are key chains that John Deere sells here.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160306_1128311_zpsjae6f3dc.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160306_1128311_zpsjae6f3dc.jpg.html)
Tie downs could just be bits of thread CA'd to the tractor And the deck. You will
Also need wood blocking.
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Made a push this weekend on tracklaying and wiring on the Colorado Midland. I also installed some of the turnout SPDTs. Along the way I realized I had to move the incline outward. Unfortunately when I built the trestle with the girder section, the ME bridge flex didn't hold on to the 10" radius curve and it threw everything off. But, everything now seems to work and the coaches do in fact negotiate the 10" radius curve (and a spot that I think might be even a hair tighter than that just between the trestles on the branch).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qGuY8ePqC5E/VvitwSYCtHI/AAAAAAAARUI/kZa9zrnBrqggopt3cnVCPLAb9qtXWcaDACCo/s512-Ic42/10420075_1065914326780772_6135329319474107138_n.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y3M1QjdmIWc/VvitwtvOV1I/AAAAAAAARUM/w_zCU1AawC4ibtWCSRherHZnYoag6As6wCCo/s640-Ic42/12924586_1065906650114873_1021666580505963136_n.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-96eI6YhOsOM/VvitwaZVg1I/AAAAAAAARUU/uMS8sBoqqy4QgDsWeRKbMNxPU0n9a2_tgCCo/s640-Ic42/12512778_1065906666781538_8005154447195552427_n.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OaJooTSubvs/VvitwUc8eSI/AAAAAAAARUU/15Gi778MzAcLnS_H7kHkz4PRiH1ExTVjgCCo/s640-Ic42/12049139_1065918923446979_5370503819939797677_n.jpg)
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More structures for the corner module. A plastistruct water tower and spout kit that turned out to be a bag of parts to start me on the way to make my own version. So far, added standing seams to the tank and currently devising a proper way to assemble the legs.
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Work continues on the shelf layout (http://s8.postimg.org/frmnbqz0l/tracknew.jpg)
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Nice across the bridge shot....
Two control panels done and installed, lexan face plate backing installed, SPDT switches installed in lexan and each has been pre wired. All wiring for Kanto has been terminated at the panel site and all I need to do is "hook up". Moleman (Sam) will return to his home (under the layout) and begin terminating the mill side lines this afternoon.... with any luck we'll have two operating panels, and a relieved Puddy, by Wednesday.... lots of time before a Saturday débuted at the Lindsay show eh???????
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Gave this feed mill a few more alcohol washes and installed the "glass"
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DvyAobnMpOE/Vvjy3Z2t0bI/AAAAAAAAPSQ/XU67HEryABIVMcUeW2pVl9R0JrRUNDJpwCCo/s800-Ic42/20160328_042338.jpg)
Helped a buddy sand blast his 0-4-0 24" gauge Porter. You can see where the front and the back of the frame was cut off. He is getting it prepped to ship out and have the frame welded back on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NT8C8tvTqoU/VvjzW-7Yx8I/AAAAAAAAPSU/fVG8g6IGwpIWhmvbOlWAIn3z0r1AAOtmwCCo/s800-Ic42/20160327_155342.jpg)
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Helped a buddy sand blast his 0-4-0 24" gauge Porter. You can see where the front and the back of the frame was cut off. He is getting it prepped to ship out and have the frame welded back on.
I am continually impressed with what Rick is doing there. Also, that Porter is insane. It's like a battleship.
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The frame is made from five 4" thick steel plates to give it the tractive effort of a standard gauge 0-6-0. One thing I thought was odd is how deep the draw bars mount. I drew red lines where the pins are.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-D0JaNg2EahU/VvkmaJwoG5I/AAAAAAAAPSw/4BiZbWA2AqgbnD9sGMYvFqeIG7EazZB7gCCo/s800-Ic42/20160327_150816.jpg)
It ran on sharp curves inside a steel mill.
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Gave this feed mill a few more alcohol washes and installed the "glass"
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DvyAobnMpOE/Vvjy3Z2t0bI/AAAAAAAAPSQ/XU67HEryABIVMcUeW2pVl9R0JrRUNDJpwCCo/s800-Ic42/20160328_042338.jpg)
Chris,
The mill is gorgeous. Is that an optical illusion or does the siding have a grade?
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Chris,
The mill is gorgeous. Is that an optical illusion or does the siding have a grade?
Optical illusion. The 2 foreground mainline tracks curve (and bank) and the siding is straight (and flat).
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Glad to see the Rochsub rebirth !!!
Great work Darrell .
8) 8)
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These guys are great. You can custom-order the measurements you want, and you can even get them in acrylic. Getting one that could be drilled and cut with a hacksaw solved my lifetime problem of putting a signal bridge just over a hole in the mirror for a 'naked' exit.
http://firstsurfacemirror.com/
The mirror here is about 12x18. There's a hole on the inside of the signal bridge for the track to exit. Half of the signal bridge is mounted around the hole edge. I just redid this entire mirror area with a first-surface a few months back. It's really hard to see the line, I upgraded the signal bridge to tricolor LED displays, and it's a precise fit now to the mirror hole.
(http://www.randgust.com/flagexit4.jpg)
Excellent example and great modeling! Can't tell there's even a mirror there at all in this shot! :o
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The frame is made from five 4" thick steel plates to give it the tractive effort of a standard gauge 0-6-0. One thing I thought was odd is how deep the draw bars mount. I drew red lines where the pins are.
It ran on sharp curves inside a steel mill.
Yeah, that's nuts. Makes sense though, given what it was to be used for. Definitely an interesting piece there. I forget, is he planning on steaming it up when he's done?
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Yeah, that's nuts. Makes sense though, given what it was to be used for. Definitely an interesting piece there. I forget, is he planning on steaming it up when he's done?
Hell yeah! Plans a whole "railroad" around this museum.
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The Porter that Chris is working on reminds me of the "Chiggen" which is operable here in the Pacific NW now.
http://www.scpc2.com/ (http://www.scpc2.com/)
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Hell yeah! Plans a whole "railroad" around this museum.
He's a mad genius.
I love it.
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Notice that the cylinder head bolts have an extra long gap where it ports into the steam box . I will have to look at other types to see how common that is .
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I now have four first-surface and two conventional mirrors on an 8' x 5'6" layout, from that big one in the photo above to an itty-bitty one under the cantilevered end of a motel wing to reflect cars in the parking lot.
The part that I don't immediately confess is that even ATTEMPTING to cut a rectangular hole in a conventional glass mirror - back in the 80's when I first did it - resulted in a lot of broken cheap mirror glass. And some mysterious events after that, superstitions notwithstanding, that result in the unqualified recommendation of ordering precut mirrors and only attempting to cut holes in acrylics (aka plexiglass).
Lots of people credit John Allen for mirror tricks, I credit N scale Guru Tom Hoover, first time I ever saw a 'naked exit' using half a highway overpass and a mirror and he was my inspiration. He only scaled his up as well, dig his Barstow Shops: http://m7.i.pbase.com/g4/17/804917/2/137617277.UNlz8WLs.jpg
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EXCELLENT WORK JOE CRUZ!!!!!!
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(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper1.jpg)
First casting and model of a Union Pacific "Ocean" series Pullman Standard Sleeper. These cars were used on the "City of Los Angeles" but were not included in the Kato set. They will be available from Skytop Models once I get my website updated this week sometime.
Do you sell these as kits or finished models?
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Notice that the cylinder head bolts have an extra long gap where it ports into the steam box . I will have to look at other types to see how common that is .
Covers may be asymmetrical left to right so the need for one offset bolt.
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Do you sell these as kits or finished models?
They are sold as two castings, the body shell and the underframe. Not really a kit as the modeler needs to add trucks, couplers, diaphragms, grab irons. windows, paint and decals. I can custom build the car for $175.00 plus shipping. I have matched the Kato yellow paint pretty well and it's hard to tell it's not part of the Kato set.
Here is a link to the we page: http://skytopmodels.com/oceansleeper.html#
Thanks for asking
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(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper3.jpg)
Bill, any chance you might bring out that roof as a separate part?
Has Kato done the "National" 6-4-6 cars? That would seem to be another natural. Wabash also rostered 3 of them in UP colors, I assume for City of St Louis.
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just another BEAUTIFUL casting!!!!!!!!!!!
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(http://skytopmodels.com/OceanSleeper3.jpg)
Bill, any chance you might bring out that roof as a separate part?
Has Kato done the "National" 6-4-6 cars? That would seem to be another natural. Wabash also rostered 3 of them in UP colors, I assume for City of St Louis.
No can do. The roof, sides and ends are one casting. No assembly required. It really speeds up building unique cars. The underframe also has all the do-dads already in place. No need to check prototype plans for placement of detail, it's alraedy done for you.
I don't think the "National" series is available as a built up car.
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Working on central 3 panels of my truss bridge.
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Finally got an update, more info in Layout Engineering Report forum.
A Wisconsin Central F45 leads a freight towards Elkart Yard passing thru CP 502 on the Conrail Chicago Line. WC power often ran-though from Fond Du Lac to Elkhart Yard via Ashland Avenue in the 1990's.
(http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu219/cjschafter/64E09014-28D7-4E73-AAF4-A23E734E69BA_zpsel0azv6l.jpg)
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Well my wife and I have pulled the plug and are selling our house of 37years. My SFRSD is to be pulled down after 22 years in the making. Fortunately a good friend has purchased the RR and we are making progress towards it fitting into his home.
I hope to update my blog as we make progress.
Rod.
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Long live the SFRSD..
Here are a few shots from the last session on the SFRSD with some D&H power.
All taken with a phone so the depth of field is not great...
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-In_XmERsQro/Vvsqxd-ELbI/AAAAAAAACGQ/1zBzJMAwduITNH8vfhwGD2NVrzj-mWLQg/s1600/IMG_20160329_201909.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKNkuCdul9c/Vvsqzdu8VJI/AAAAAAAACGc/1VdIouatSMw1p7dBvgZSsJ1HId2ILPEKQ/s1600/IMG_20160329_211338.jpg)
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Well my wife and I have pulled the plug and are selling our house of 37years. My SFRSD is to be pulled down after 22 years in the making. Fortunately a good friend has purchased the RR and we are making progress towards it fitting into his home.
I hope to update my blog as we make progress.
Rod.
Oh Rod, say it ain't so.... :(
Is there another layout in your future?
Otto K.
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Oh Rod, say it ain't so.... :(
Is there another layout in your future?
Otto K.
Hi Otto, sad but true. Helen and I have decided to downsize. The layout is surviving albeit in a new home in a slightly different orientation. John Colliver who you have also met is going to fit it into the upstairs floor of his house. Several of us have been working at knocking down walls so the SFRSD can fit.
Stay tuned.
Rod.
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Rod, sorry to hear the news about the layout, but so glad to hear that John will get the rr back up and running at his location. After seeing your modeling in the mags over the years it was great to see and operate on your layout last year. You have really hit a benchmark with smooth operation and great scenery, and such a great group of guys down there to work with. Wishing you the best on whatever you decide next.
Gordon Bliss Santa Fe - All the Way
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.....
.....
Wow! The amount and fineness of the detail could easily make this model passable as a finely-detailed 0 Scale brass model! That is amazing!
Thank you, with my most heartfelt sincerity and thank you too, cajonpassfan!
I won't rest until people stop looking at our trains and saying, "That looks really good...." FOR N SCALE (cringe)
But to be fair, there's a LOT of good stuff out there now, and people say "for N Scale" less and less.
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Rod, sorry to hear the news about the layout, but so glad to hear that John will get the rr back up and running at his location. After seeing your modeling in the mags over the years it was great to see and operate on your layout last year. You have really hit a benchmark with smooth operation and great scenery, and such a great group of guys down there to work with. Wishing you the best on whatever you decide next.
Gordon Bliss Santa Fe - All the Way
Hi Gordon. Thanks. It was great to see you down under. Good to that the SFRSD will survive. John is very happy to have acquired the RR
Rod.
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(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160330_1533411_zps95qnsx9q.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160330_1533411_zps95qnsx9q.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160330_1533571_zpsmqgfftwg.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160330_1533571_zpsmqgfftwg.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160330_1534171_zpsbvn28vyg.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160330_1534171_zpsbvn28vyg.jpg.html)
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(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160330_1533411_zps95qnsx9q.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160330_1533411_zps95qnsx9q.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160330_1533571_zpsmqgfftwg.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160330_1533571_zpsmqgfftwg.jpg.html)
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160330_1534171_zpsbvn28vyg.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160330_1534171_zpsbvn28vyg.jpg.html)
I took pix of some JD tractors on flats on a train pulling into Enola yard just a few weeks ago and took close-ups of the tie-downs. I don't have my camera card with those pix on it with me right now, but will post them here over the coming weekend.
Ron
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I had a chance to replace the Bachmann E-Z-Mate couplers with some MT 903/905 Z scale couplers. It's not a real difficult task as the entire MT coupler actually fits right into the box used by the Bachmann coupler. One must remove the screw mounting post, then use an appropriate length screw; I used a shortened MT screw. Also, the MT 905 box is longer and the back protrudes to the rear a little more, so I milled notches in the 'shelf' part of the mechanism frame to allow easy clearance when removing the shell from the mechanism.
I also removed the cast exhaust stack so I could replace it with one available on Shapeways (generously provided to me by Otto!!!) I simply masked around the roof panel then removed the stack with a chisel blade. The styrene is suitably soft and careful chiseling produced a smooth surface.( This is going to be far more difficult to do on the Atlas S2) I filed the base from the Shapeways stack, sanded the correct bevel, the CA's the stack to the panel. Before I applied the stack, I was concerned that it was too short; but it doesn't look bad once it's in place...I'll mask the panel, spray it black, then carefully paint the stack Tamiya Flat Aluminum...
I also plan to add the canvas sunshades to this one; I'll make sure to document the progress.
Once again, a very nice offering from Bachmann, and a STEAL of a deal, with DCC!
Bruce
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/arbomambo/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/SweetPea%20005_zpsaxy3srm8.jpg) (http://s166.photobucket.com/user/arbomambo/media/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/SweetPea%20005_zpsaxy3srm8.jpg.html)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/arbomambo/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/BACHMANN%20S4%20001_zpsre8endcv.jpg) (http://s166.photobucket.com/user/arbomambo/media/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/BACHMANN%20S4%20001_zpsre8endcv.jpg.html)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/arbomambo/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/BACHMANN%20S4%20002_zps4aszfnzm.jpg) (http://s166.photobucket.com/user/arbomambo/media/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/BACHMANN%20S4%20002_zps4aszfnzm.jpg.html)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u84/arbomambo/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/BACHMANN%20S4%20006_zps4ruvjlqq.jpg) (http://s166.photobucket.com/user/arbomambo/media/N%20Scale/NTrak/SWARM%20T-Trak/BACHMANN%20S4%20006_zps4ruvjlqq.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
FYI: You can chop off the back of the MTL 905's almost all the way up to the screw hole & not affect functionality.
I did it to a couple of locos (can't find my photos right now) after Chris333 showed how it's done.
Then you don't have to mill the frame any.
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Looking good!
FYI: You can chop off the back of the MTL 905's almost all the way up to the screw hole & not affect functionality.
I did it to a couple of locos (can't find my photos right now) after Chris333 showed how it's done.
Then you don't have to mill the frame any.
Thanks for the tip!...
that is really good to know, and will come in handy for all those Kato F unit pilots!
Bruce
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Almost forgot to post the updates and "how to" of the flats.
Here is the link to the new blog post.
I followed what he [the author to the link found in the blog post] did with the exception of scraping the decks and moved right on to applying the white paint that was diluted just enough so that it flowed easily but didn't run. I applied the paint to decks without applying any dull coat for added tooth. It seemed to grab just fine.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bHl8A6Jp3hQNQ7GyDo9AZ_jokuRNtkMs7FbHcsWlSVgaua3QolDG8hqHSdBmnE4E2lPUMqxK_AXgqDZ_UfIhxO83mmJIPT3SsccPY5lcCCfVP3fZbOiggrGmNebjWd58NBxZscdoRwltoOqhJGcfRIe5SrZ7a21XN2O8qzAWNMgkTmdwCJ43-Jmmb435ykVy5snl8dCtLfwz8KjTzQHpTpGFqmju1hgAQLbtVq-febGnTugklldAbzxmtXG2KYlFJg4LBNdRljzL9ZOJvFnRuOk6JwJxtWy3DIt1N3r9BpeZGJpcIMmcuTxbU212vlUP7nV4PXEhPHVCYUmKKpD8gtTVYRm0pKdeX9vZUfox8TG-RNvUvf7fK8iPUT_uTmEjceJhqLehDfbvlEiRdCAhk4DgJcpsW2MTRpKIwKhqZJ4ckdM43MANPanbQKl_Nzl8U95wkZEMZydAXzUDfoqQh8ZUZvkfjTDTy298ZSS5lRICK0tSmctKSy5P73gHFimf4oLlv0lPa6BSmd5pJdYuLUCaHc8Fk-wHcgg1SCJiUG4gDwnqkOipsJA4yw7jBxVfZx7S=w250-h320-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_IkZAxvzdwvd6qt6Gd3bLkbSQtdamAU5VyJN6oozXS3wzsCHO5UMB-spz2s6zIgXuSilCvM_-47EOrcCtjAF70h0O5m_2qJ2AwFOXxHvD-vrVXeiTGtpSbTr_P6XMxsT3Pq8kxIwLb4t_K20Yg1rfypSyYsq3Ap89GxkHfudJ1Ae_WM3vPGX-cIeVHx2pYEtvGVXzjGl8kkxzYs9TjTG3frJGKGfco8LhXefZ3npneYU0VoryrdYhuf2oS28f0xuTPEQrn-HPGhjKPY0UGkn9MDWiYV2_X28zusEZYy4Sxk1Tw7ZDhu3p4hpCJCEHdqBLqVKmrlzsatM4FQfzTk8CPwrxLgkwksXD4kqyas8hp4e3D7YjoAk6vtfDOuqgB08MF59MiuKMHOIqfMDAkve28SkWzZKOpvOB7DU0DqrHdjdFxVzl9uQIlhydKMtYxNMI_og1qzp1iZ3pIN_0dDgtua2hZm-KoqJSsupKZqf1Z_6NXAqO1gY4j0Qjtu-uNT8YpC5nYu0lFs-MVDguNmRDQANHZIKW7iv5kkyt9eG7Z4ab5v6n1AsGF9qxyiVqaPDTu27=w800-h426-no)
I used a bottle of brown and black acrylic as I wanted the decks to still have a brown color. After the white coat dried, I applied the brown/black wash coat directly over the white wash. I thinned it down but not quite as much as I did with the white undercoat. This I brushed on and spread it out randomly and let it dry. I went back a few times and added a stronger dose of un-thinned black and brown and spread it out a bit so as to give the look of oil spills and non bleached wood. I think I could give them a bit more of this treatment because to my eyes they look a little light yet? As someone said elsewhere "Try using a coat or two of India Ink wash to make things pop a bit more" Then I'll sealed them with a flat finish.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1lOVgUsL4mA/VvYs68_9EqI/AAAAAAAAL1g/6HEFmVHpbt8FjUdlT8UaXZhSpK9VPahlACCo/s400-Ic42/IMG_1856.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LBYaJV3UEUc/VvYs631Ic2I/AAAAAAAAL1g/ugVbY841FsgIpoHGXFQxlfUq1uvtD2oEACCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_1858.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zR0eqH8ePvc/VvYs6zkWgEI/AAAAAAAAL1g/_EHVs3C_X1kWodaXnHCBZ-9N5MNHm6xfwCCo/s800-Ic42/IMG_1865.JPG)
In retrospect, I suppose one could go back and make some large scrapes or even "Chip" in some of the existing boards to show some damage or heavy use like Chuck did, but for now these will work. Regardless it's a vast improvement over the stock deck.
BTW I did these without dismantling the cars. I tried to clean off the metal parts on the deck, but wasn't too worried about it as they will receive weathering sooner or later.
The next step will be to attack the cars with weathering to make them look worn like the decks.
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Thanks Allen and Ron. My first attempt to do this. I tried the guy with the white paint and water followed
by Dyna-Flow fabric paint and it didn't look right. I probably need to put alcohol on a cloth and wipe
the deck. Need tie down pics and Allen those decks rock. Less is more with this I guess.
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The deck on my car doesn't pop because of the color of the car, white. If it was red or yellow
it would look better. Excuses - Gonna wipe down and try again. I love my Railwire, to burn
and learn.
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Trying to expedite the truss bridge a little, attaching diagnals on center portion hope to have this project done in a month or two so I can work on the scenery on the module where this bridge will cross my double track main that represents the Conrail former Pennsy Cleveland pittsburgh line. Its set in 1979 this bridge was abandoned by PC in 1968 so will be abandoned on my layout, it was built by Pennsy and NYC in 1910 it was a joint effort between the 2 railroads but only NYC used the line. Hope to hand lay the mainline on the module also need some Jos trees!
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Got the deck looking like Allen's. Pics today.
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:ashat: :ashat:
Got the deck looking like Allen's. Pics today.
Here are the photos I took in mid-February. I'm amazed to find there is no blocking on the deck; chains only. I hadn't noticed that when I first saw them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PkTlP6GA1VF8I_nYPDJxNGMtvwRCP5pUapvpU9zmWV8ywsuWWMbyL-ApnESZg-SP3zpV6mQu4FrydxM1ZL5ofKQUga6M4M-_MkCZ586I79sriE6WN0xjFjGCfwC0sOsyqmoIO7lW-dWXfK6W_oaj6YThUZrJqH8f9A8p4fF3pzPk8ZMJLrSC0g-lEd0gtREUVSILte05WsahiRHafdxrjyyIDqWBWq3zPbWTNTm-TgbJQIO9YMidqL2EkDYylBLcetpQzgSM9iKgeyGRy6QS_cN3-r3JQB_c5VaJhAgdoEBzOxNSOKgd99qm20TJb7HNVmV_RX4-vs016_YS-E1w0pqbXzULPbfPHOHlUoojFHQMGtNlUXsVtt0p1Yr4Qtt0Qh0uP7B7bfn32oDBlGJK6uhO6EWsHhZnUh_EDs6nmLEYb4xj71nYa9KBZhRSyhYGwRmaqGknk71oiAgPui3e1qqcuKdWcTjybQnkYhAwK2vqUDZpwfsF1Sxb0ZvxvY12pXv0e4ORtB4OG9XdeBqxU4sl0IF4BDm-xl5we5EnPp5D4WpEWbZkobR6ruu41X22GyBn=w761-h507-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3Ao7ayTBFATMLXYLP0BJjABupcPABXWLPgr9y1UrbO8WF30WgAV771t-ug4JDqwNUnODU9UjruDPJVNLW1Cx01JwRmoLPwYuKPDgkvBs3H6s3bQNDIxizWyMSQFPBCmPh-BjdsCSTXcNiTFZFxELfNp5_77Q6oVQIxRs-ogoPkAGla26y6tlFsGvIHnKpIYtJBb09PG7prpo2cmXJT6VYf8ti0X0_ijAKpvXCHMMFaXmbitAoIPbB1o0ohODQdxOLCNx-fy-9iCRINko7hyspkOHiKggatHd1J0UAOmWP9GigR6pgf6m5uFLFnXFfp5KoRAtaPNz9iRyTZvdzBCKwRmVQllomUjTJzqECVcDe0FCipHp2jB37jX32n4Z1ebOixintjnWXZSWhf6QRipF4p20ZbwzWBPd4uk9lBexprbRhsFTVinoj6hsw_j7_Z5ZzraVdhv6vDls7Kjkt62EMYPXCrzK44QyWJSVmcrwPihjwrv63MuVWI-uAgRArXaoc6lLNu0EajeT6HmkBzT0hllfHsFfheFuwt3nZFs05-tEz9BHDUNe_Kp2l4xtfa-R29cC=w761-h507-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p3wX2fXa1hXtPyp-Ia7eoZ4OPh4AKtx9BGDTkHWZIWhNJGewwRjrIlcQsb3mMFkeqexX47LTHh1Hd5FbEP6LJORaa1kyBQeUQsY08EuyVc6yFTxIE2mDdlrTkf-S36EiMAE_5oXpZTqGQYLwTrB0AFl5ZBM-hdH7IS5fBL4IaVZdmrne5m2JohhzZEA7Y4AuRtd7HVgJnTjKa9iPlHBUcpBIAAK7G-ap9hqg6K9ORpoyVfY09FeAP165iNktki7SC5cREm9Xqy6OrekScG4PT8BlueDtcIigNm0GB3Q7UXMMdPL4n6bvY8d0EGQNOte37SYqjyyn3YvtJAp95o2JaYJEqvE8K_0OEc5zFfaBzZJYH5HN9w92OkBG9xER_PQL-_85nrLT-YB5v0L1g0i00ENKARnm9RJA6liUfYOijtGco9qSrp27XJeAAaFoargI3Ug2LtYCMT2_phhWfMIUorpulXznQJKjfotd0tBglrFbZaZHykQMeK9ewa9Uw874gdBxsAYHf18-m8HrdqAYoA0aXuDcRPziLve09EbCsToOpvhsi1LxzuKMI_QMR7rmez9n=w761-h507-no)
This was one car in a long string of flatcars with 3 to a car.
Ron
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Thanks for posting these,, I was wondering if you'd see 2 different models shipped together, and there are 2 different models of JD's on there......I want to put one of the bigger modern Athearn JD tractors and a pair of Wiking JD's on a flatcar...These pics help greatly!
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Got the deck looking like Allen's. Pics today.
Looking forward to seeing the new pics Chuck.
You say yours "Didn't Pop" cause the car is white? If the deck was darker I think it should pop ok?
I used White like the author, then added black/brown unlike the author. But he was going for a real GRAYED out wood for the deck, whereas I was going for a more faded deck. Recently Philp H mentioned something to me about not using white, but instead using an OFF white or sandy beige.
This makes sense as this is the same thing Gary Hinshaw did in his Fading Fast technique. If using a white paint for the fade, it will almost look frosty. An off white or sandy beige should help tone the fade down.
If you got yours to look better, leave it, but on future attempts, you might try an OFF white or sandy beige.
I'm going to on the next batch.
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Allen I used your technique and it works perfect.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160403_0921211_zpskeuoaqqa.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160403_0921211_zpskeuoaqqa.jpg.html)
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(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/b-o-p11-flat.111315/full)
This was done with multiple layers of dry-brushing RR tie brown, Wood, Sand, and White with an occasional swipe of sandpaper between colors.
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Advancing the scenery at Skoonka.
(http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i461/scottl16/20160403_141710_zpsfe4cqxhh.jpg) (http://s1095.photobucket.com/user/scottl16/media/20160403_141710_zpsfe4cqxhh.jpg.html)
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Allen I used your technique and it works perfect.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j28/chuckgeiger/20160403_0921211_zpskeuoaqqa.jpg) (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/chuckgeiger/media/20160403_0921211_zpskeuoaqqa.jpg.html)
The colors turned out pretty damned good Chuck, I like the dark blotches.
I just finished 8 steel plate loads last night, I'll get them posted shortly.
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(http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/b-o-p11-flat.111315/full)
This was done with multiple layers of dry-brushing RR tie brown, Wood, Sand, and White with an occasional swipe of sandpaper between colors.
That deck looks great Tony, looks dry and thirsty! Nice variation in colors as well.
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Allen - Did you see the article in MR recent edition on steel plate loads?
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Allen - Did you see the article in MR recent edition on steel plate loads?
No I haven't. But I just finished eight steel plate loads for my bulkhead flats.
I'll get the pics cleaned up and posted to the blog and here shortly.