TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: Puddington on September 13, 2010, 12:45:00 PM
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I have been collecting a suplly of various Atlas code 55 turnouts for use in my soon to be started rebuild and expansion of the Puddington valley - I haven't really researched these yet and have a couple of questions:
1. Do they have to be operated with a powered switch machine ? if so; does it have to be the Atlas under the table device. What are your expereinces with the Atlas machine
2. If you want to use Tortuss (or however you spell it) machines, can you ?
3. Can you use ground throws; if so, how and where do you power the frog - common or ground...
Any hints for their installation and mtce would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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I have used manual throws and am currently anticipating using Tam Valley depot Servos. These really seem to be the way to go, ecpecially considering the cost vs. Tortoise. The size is nice and with Tam Valley Depot's control boards, DC and DCC users will all be happy.
Lee started a thread on these, and Ian has a good video on his website. These seem perfect for code 55 turnouts. That can be found here: http://therailwire.net/forum/index.php/topic,21562.0.html (http://therailwire.net/forum/index.php/topic,21562.0.html)
I am actually expecting delivery of my order of 50 Tam Valley Depot Singlets with servos today.
Eric
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Servo are the way to go vs. cost for tortise. They work great with Atlas C 55 Turnouts
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#5s may need more clearance at the guardrails. Check each with a gauge.
Jason
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I just built a small layout to test AC55 turnouts with ME C40 flex. I found that the Altas TOs don't really need a switch machine and the switch points stay put fairly well without any added pressure. I did keep a close eye on things and would not do this on a large layout with lots of TOs. For the "real deal", I think I would go with manual slide swithes installed as shown in back issues of NSR. These can route power as well as move the switch points.
The frogs are metal, but still isolated from the rest of the TO, so they act like an insulated frog TO. I did not do anything to power the frog and had no problems with 2 axle locos stalling out.. I did come to a 100% stop on the TO and had to push start the train though. ;D
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For manual control with frog-powering and routing capabilities you cannot beat a Bluepoint undertable turnout control.
Bruce
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The absolutely most cost effective way to manually operate these and get the power routing is to use a simple DPST slide switch.
(http://www.wmrywesternlines.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/Meyersdale_Revision_%288%29.jpg)
I buy these characters off of ebay from an electronics supplier, usually for under a dollar a piece, and usually in piles of 12 to 20 at a time. Shipping cost is neglegible, and all you need is some .010 piano wire and a little drill bit to make a hole in the switch.
I'm looking into the servos, too, to run the yet to be constructed yard throat, but I still have a hand full of Tortoises to install.
Looking forward to seeing your results.
Lee
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I used to use blue points but they are about double the size of a micro servos (Tam Valley) and require a direct line of sight with the end of the fascia for the pull rods, somewhat limiting available placement arrangements. On my latest layout I went with the servos and found that you could position them in any direction/configuration without worrying at all about pull rods, plus the servo connections are very easily extended for control panels (or DCC controls) anywhere you want them. The electronics to integrate them are also much cheaper per unit than that used with tortoises and the servos don't cost more than bluepoints even with required electronics.
Bottom line, Tortoises were great 20 years ago but now they're very expensive outdated technology and servos work very well with code 55 turnouts.
Best of luck,
Erik
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There are these slow motion motors that are relatively cheap:
http://scaleshops.com/html/photos.html
Adding a decoder should not be too difficult.
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That kit doesn't look like it will save you much time or money... and you still have to add a decoder, should that be your poison...
Oooh. Just scored a nice decoder job that will net me about 80% of what I need to place my servo order... Provided, of course, that the check doesn't get diverted to something dumb like a water bill...
Lee
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I've used RC airplane push rods and tubes to manually control the Bluepoints, so a direct line-of-sight is not needed. As long as the rod can handle the flex it will work.
Bruce
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With Blue Points I don't understand buying a manual controller for the same price as a Tortoise. Mostly because I can build my own manual controller for about $1 each.
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With Blue Points I don't understand buying a manual controller for the same price as a Tortoise. Mostly because I can build my own manual controller for about $1 each.
It is a little confusing. I guess the Blue Point manufacturer is counting on there being a lot of not-so-handy modelers out there who can handle installing something big and boxy like a Tortoise, but can't deal with all of the "fussy" DIY work involved with mounting a slide switch or whatever one may use, create all of the linkage, etc., etc.
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Ah yes, the "Don't Do It Yourself" mentality...
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Caboose Hobbies manual throws work fine, although you have to enlarge the hole in the throwbar. I have 90 of them. For the two that are a little out of reach, a piano wire extension works fine.
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Caboose Hobbies manual throws work fine, although you have to enlarge the hole in the throwbar. I have 90 of them. For the two that are a little out of reach, a piano wire extension works fine.
Caboose Industries?
Jason