TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: Chris333 on November 19, 2021, 05:55:02 PM
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In this topic: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=53010.0
The "DKS" @DKS flattened a pretty well detailed photo of a Long Island boxcab. I took that photo and "traced" it in AutoCAD to import into Sketchup. Apparently I have no idea how to use Sketchup, but I did spit out a 3D model of this loco.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXPEFV--Rd4PTrEa4uAaw-DZrW9_qheO-7VxoZeBbldkNWQASIWk0cEaS9NmBbBWl3DUiivV4R9uJAH365klI72l5amECxNOt01s_elIjlZKdlTHkgoKGmBqLcgi3CpyV8qP89WUtQMUdwI1MEvXg4xfw=w1000-h566-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
This site has some good photos:
https://www.arrts-arrchives.com/ENG403.html
And this site:
http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/indloco/prrn4.html
Locomotive #403 A was originally part of a binary pair; #403 A and #403 B. I have been unable to ascertain if operation required an engineer in each unit, or there was a primitive "m.u." (multiple unit) connection, allowing one engineer to operate both units simultaneously.
According to data compiled by Sam Berliner; #403 A and #403 B were originally constructed being semi-permanently coupled (via drawbar) and had no inner buffer beams, draft gear, couplers, steps, and such. They had to be rebuilt to operate independently and they were probably separated and modified for independent operation when they were rebuilt in December 1929.
Bob Levernight adds the following: according to Kirkland's Dawn of the Diesel Age, (p 111); LIRR 403 A-403 B were Westinghouse units built at East Pittsburgh, powered by Beardmore diesel engines, with bodies built by Baldwin. They were equipped with pneumatic throttles which operated both diesel engine's fuel racks. Drawbar connected, but built to accept a conventional MCB coupler. Kirkland also attributes these as the first Multiple Unit (MU) diesel-electric.
These were my first test prints.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVuD4gaaj3HXAbdLhSy3PZIVH3Hw_Bh-9WGjbr8lgUFzdFgEQcAAUGT1hyjAj4MFB0eF77y4GgZ_qzox-4Q6a_8MVLK_HnVPhPi4DPVd4FsHEfxqqVnAlnczX-x-uKdxrQzYBEAMkQMvger7iw7PfzDdw=w1000-h844-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXiAl63cruHDnZVEau_c9xuz0ORMlYrNhTY80e5rsXnB1FaRwBUDhxVmFifij7fBE5KatWNp3uviQ4lPrSeqUIIlPTNVmCzRIRBNinXjSf4xoMaw_jPdbYz4ja7sBEImMzvxNARecMa7zQQzz5E5qBhsw=w1000-h938-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
In N scale this thing is only about 1.5" long.
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Looking good! Excellent modeling.
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This is another test print with roof details.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXBnUsHhL_D_uxt0qHMW0mrVjrFeEL3K0-sn8G97dterBoQYvqrZj1J0bQLv6S6i0FGKVD4roiJaIUyuBRactv_WV51RPpWV3um6C7bKdnkgh_89IGdIL03G0d5Z8yMisa7jtmAFeZcvYivurvLXhkUyg=w1000-h844-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
The box in the back is a radiator. The bigger tank in the center is for water. Had to guess on a lot of these details. I have about 10 photos of this locomotive, but they are all taken down at ground level.
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Assume work. Beautiful.
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Ike and Mike
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In this topic: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=53010.0
The "DKS" flattened a pretty well detailed photo of a Long Island boxcab. I took that photo and "traced" it in AutoCAD to import into Sketchup. Apparently I have no idea how to use Sketchup, but I did spit out a 3D model of this loco.
I don't think it is that at all.
You do know how to use SketchUp, but you just don't know all of its features, or certain tricks/features, or acquired out-of-the-box thinking to obtain the results you are after. That boxcab looks really, really good.
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I asked on a Sketchup forum how to fix these problems and without laughing, they all laughed at me. Like how I could quickly have drawn it in Sketchup using a few rectangles. I have never once in 3-4 years of Sketchup used a rectangle.
And they kept telling me about making groups, but I didn't understand one bit of it. Even went and watched a few videos and really have no idea why I need to make groups. If I need to I just copy and paste to get multipule items.
They did show me how array works though.
And after they all told me I needed to redraw all those circles to change their segment count. I redrew it. Then someone comes along and tells me there is a plugin that would have done it all in one step. Installed it and he was right. Why does a drawing program need plugins?
Either way I got a boxcab.
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@Chris333 how do you feel about Alco 2-8-2T Minarets? :D
If I could identify a chassis with small enough driver diameter and an integrated drive (no tender, because there wasn’t one) that would be my unicorn.
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@Chris333 how do you feel about Alco 2-8-2T Minarets? :D
If I could identify a chassis with small enough driver diameter and an integrated drive (no tender, because there wasn’t one) that would be my unicorn.
Count me in .
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I need drawings, plans, blueprints, serial numbers, birth certificate, etc.
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I need drawings, plans, blueprints, serial numbers, birth certificate, etc.
Standby.
I really suspect the drive will be a huge issue.
If I recall, correctly from the time I spent with my Uncle restoring Hammond Lumber #16, they were equipped with 44” drivers and
20”x24” cylinders.
I know very little about N Scale Steam, so this could be a roadblock at the beginning.
Photos and Serial #’s shouldn’t be an issue, drawings and plans, I’ll need to work on.
I think there were only 20 of the 2-8-2T version built.
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Was joking about the serial numbers... :trollface:
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Was joking about the serial numbers... :trollface:
Duh. :D
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I have Coos Bay Lumber #11 plans. Is that what you wanted?
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/26/109-211121064606.jpeg)
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Yep, that’s it.
Going to have to dig into what 0-8-0’s or 2-8-2’s, Japanese or European might have “close” driver diameters and wheelbase.
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A widened Z scale mechanism? It looks close to the D&RGW's larger narrow gauge 2-8-2s
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From my notes, the D51s still are too big for a 44" dia driver. A stretched Roundhouse 2-8-0 might be your best bet. A .275" dia driver is what we are looking for.
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In this topic: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=53010.0
The "DKS" flattened a pretty well detailed photo of a Long Island boxcab. I took that photo and "traced" it in AutoCAD to import into Sketchup. Apparently I have no idea how to use Sketchup, but I did spit out a 3D model of this loco.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXPEFV--Rd4PTrEa4uAaw-DZrW9_qheO-7VxoZeBbldkNWQASIWk0cEaS9NmBbBWl3DUiivV4R9uJAH365klI72l5amECxNOt01s_elIjlZKdlTHkgoKGmBqLcgi3CpyV8qP89WUtQMUdwI1MEvXg4xfw=w1000-h566-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
This site has some good photos:
https://www.arrts-arrchives.com/ENG403.html
And this site:
http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/indloco/prrn4.html
These were my first test prints.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVuD4gaaj3HXAbdLhSy3PZIVH3Hw_Bh-9WGjbr8lgUFzdFgEQcAAUGT1hyjAj4MFB0eF77y4GgZ_qzox-4Q6a_8MVLK_HnVPhPi4DPVd4FsHEfxqqVnAlnczX-x-uKdxrQzYBEAMkQMvger7iw7PfzDdw=w1000-h844-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXiAl63cruHDnZVEau_c9xuz0ORMlYrNhTY80e5rsXnB1FaRwBUDhxVmFifij7fBE5KatWNp3uviQ4lPrSeqUIIlPTNVmCzRIRBNinXjSf4xoMaw_jPdbYz4ja7sBEImMzvxNARecMa7zQQzz5E5qBhsw=w1000-h938-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
In N scale this thing is only about 1.5" long.
Shut up and take my money-
Have you determined a mech yet? MUST. HAVE.
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Shut up and take my money-
Have you determined a mech yet? MUST. HAVE.
Determination is on the printer right now :D
The thing about the power chassis though. I have a couple of these sitting here: https://tomamw.miiduu.com/6151-nhoe009-dia60wb12mm-super-slow-drinve-unit-oso-power-0612-rtr-1
The 6mm wheels are correct, but the wheel base is too short. I need 18mm WB. So I am printing a new chassis block. After all the kit chassis itself is 3D printed. So I will strip all the parts from the Toma chassis and add a new longer 1mm layshaft. I'll have pics later on.
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@Chris333 how do you feel about Alco 2-8-2T Minarets? :D
If I could identify a chassis with small enough driver diameter and an integrated drive (no tender, because there wasn’t one) that would be my unicorn.
I built one years ago, using a Walthers 0-8-0 as the mech. It's way too big obviously, But it does fit the bill. I'm looking for some pictures now. If I don't find any, I will get some the next time I dig it out.
EDIT: Found a few picture, The pictures are horrible, I think I took them with a potato. The model is not great either, Of course the model was built like 10 or 12 years ago, so my skills were not exactly where they are now:
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
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How does that run without a tender for power pickups?
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The boxcab next to a 33' hopper:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXN1gM-a3Sdv-poQCAnttk4KFKS6PYBrPcOSJ3E4z_GqzGU0IIIi9FdOilI0kLDp0djSuKDnpdHcHnPWKzMdGnMrnAbTzQLM_0AM9iBAd91UWwf1UHQkX8_bx6B35_U99gVHj6wbFvpsQ3a4eZ0NmrZBg=w1000-h576-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
Frame block with chassis mounted.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVaLxZvRQugxoJFK1VwYVuW-Sgf8HR91BiTztC5Uhg-N3TNV5NZAv7LzbxHhRdIF0AEnxumIHZ6sJXT0HT0-DLHgxKb1SIw226Z1ZQ0dAWMvpjxNc-CEconjVoLuhUlF5OfSQHyOwofH55CnFH36Hdi4A=w1000-h499-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXnnvuwULEjNvAX3elUlYBjiho7el6kHgQxfJcRmDXMBXQIn9Pmt13ffgyjMjMujTat3xdu0OCZPDde8YCxfhejCmFdCKbazQpw8OWuFzXfX0qh4udmLj-VUwvlzA08UJaDVPZspQ99wg5Zd-oPavJ3MA=w1000-h493-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
Chassis on the left is stock Toma Model Works. On the right is my own 3D "block" with Toma's parts on it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXw_0HcR5KUOw7KLiJd2d3hzPKE6LAyOwkzYaUlYL2SVWnFdPAd1MMTumHkct3ZKvjG8DdnpPpX7Pfk5dD_vq-WuqV9ESst7Jx4cSmrFaCFV1E7sfC-isiTOCK1bQ_K76hurVXSRAoEOPZO1Z9xhsfIYA=w1000-h432-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
And here is a video of the Toma chassis running:
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Amazeballs.
You astound me Chris. Seriously.
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Please excuse the HOn30 layout. :)
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In the video there is no weight at all. The motor, layshaft, wheels, and screws are the only metal. I could have blown it over. I suspect that once full of lead it will run even better.
Needs moar 1930's George Sellios :lol:
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OUTSTANDING.
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The boxcab next to a 33' hopper:
Magnifico! 8)
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From my notes, the D51s still are too big for a 44" dia driver. A stretched Roundhouse 2-8-0 might be your best bet. A .275" dia driver is what we are looking for.
Only problem there: the MDC engines have their motors in the tender.
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Only problem there: the MDC engines have their motors in the tender.
Precisely.
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Only problem there: the MDC engines have their motors in the tender.
But this does not mean that a gear can't be added to the input shaft and a motor above that inside the shell of the tank engine after machining off the top of the chassis for room.
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Chris needs to be cloned and become required R&D enforcer of every model RR manufacturer of every scale and some not yet envisioned . Critters are much more appropriate to model railroads , less disappointing with tractive effort , and as such make small model railroads more prototypical .
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It’s really pretty quiet @Chris333
Will you pair it up with another one or just run it solo?
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It’s really pretty quiet @Chris333
Will you pair it up with another one or just run it solo?
They were built together with pilots on only one end, but some time later they were split up and pilots added. One place says it was rebuilt in 1929, just a year after it was built. I like it better by itself:
http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/indloco/prrn4403a5.jpg
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You already know what this is 8)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUJ7g_X9dX9FfF86hq6p05iKxVvaQdC67cMl-aCAAGWkGGJY969s1o_jDMvYSaEtDbo8SBFrGTnvITfM7oD1yHjyx8Z2XuQqR7WvHfGycpnDEdkO_wV85ShlscyFVNdt2YM5byznVqoMDwSGr3Q_S8Alg=w1000-h334-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
To fit a Bachmann 44 tonner chassis. But as this shows. The bottom is correct and top would be the Bachmann 44T.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUv5dhNJQeyzb-RgmHGgp3LHezIBIp-aIGdk34d62NUk93inTYvrYfwJ53qLoR_m2vewZTnrh0TEgKuux17XAe0cQYGoeQc9jACnqyJLerDByc5wSyGIcDNEfeLn69iqEdJpaHI2373L_gPWShAnjq2Jg=w1000-h293-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
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I like it better by itself:
I agree.
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How does that run without a tender for power pickups?
Meh. I took out the traction tire driver, and it made a huge difference. Pretty much, if your trackwork is good, and you have powered frogs, it's not bad. It would benefit from a Keep Alive Cap, That's for sure.
Only problem there: the MDC engines have their motors in the tender.
It's only a problem, until it's not. With the small motors, and gear heads that are available now. I bet something could be worked out.
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I asked on a Sketchup forum how to fix these problems and without laughing, they all laughed at me. Like how I could quickly have drawn it in Sketchup using a few rectangles. I have never once in 3-4 years of Sketchup used a rectangle.
And they kept telling me about making groups, but I didn't understand one bit of it. Even went and watched a few videos and really have no idea why I need to make groups. If I need to I just copy and paste to get multipule items.
They did show me how array works though.
And after they all told me I needed to redraw all those circles to change their segment count. I redrew it. Then someone comes along and tells me there is a plugin that would have done it all in one step. Installed it and he was right. Why does a drawing program need plugins?
Either way I got a boxcab.
I consider myself barely Sketchup-literate myself, and I find the stuff you do amazing.
But speaking as a software geek I will say that copy-paste may not be the best way to create duplicate items, particularly large quantities of an identical item, like rivets for example. When you copy-paste, the program treats the new item as a completely independent entity, allowing you to later modify one item without affecting the item you copied it from. But it also means that the program has to keep a separate copy of all the instructions for drawing each item in memory, and execute all of them every time it refreshes the screen. If you have, for example, several hundred rivets created this way, it will consume a lot more memory and dramatically slow down the program.
But if your design doesn't call for several hundred individually unique rivets, it's much more efficient to store one set of instructions for drawing a rivet in memory, along with a list of locations where each "clone" of the rivet should appear. Your file will be smaller and your drawing program will use less memory and refresh faster. In Sketchup you could design a rivet as a 'component', which would also allow you to easily import it into other drawings that need rivets as well.
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So now we have Erie boxcab #20 :D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWk3HRzy6OjfE_bgKykMiK1JvRMNiF8_Wr1WP-H30yt07KmA4GmsBjwWrO381uxeESzSXpb0MSyVEOWafp32DI4R2EuAXU6VAQXyl7x-egiVWw-R24wxeGSZySE9GNnb3P0f2nYdsVheYBVsBQAWuQyeQ=w1000-h445-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUnVFAaZCKngz0G7_B0J6hDB2O4d5kIkSTAbi8CQtOMDlM0JnJ0-nCZ-s2oOf_RjXAH9xDohXpKgLO6sdrNuiKkQh8SEHVyxg3oruSqSUa0qNbdxm_GrpPgMrBl9xl00fRcvhYQj7OpC8K5V1LSeWlsQA=w1000-h938-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWKie0w23qn0GIsBsTvg2Md4KVxYLV4v5fRwJfhLvZYgmbTf42qbVyClRb0CmGT1efXT1GV7jDazvHLV6MJeVCUXhuG_p_uB68IMMnd770MxjVtbxTQbO_Tz0srSBSqKwRyRaWVjuDSotLVIZnduFMcwg=w1000-h376-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
The radiators and mufflers are separate pieces. After this I added headlights to the fronts of the radiators. Also made the pilots separate pieces to help to end windows from leaning inward. Those are in the particle generator right now.
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Sweet!
Otto
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I wonder if that Erie unit would fit on a Kato EH-10 chassis? Leave the radiators off and it would make a nice boxcab electric.
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Approximately 1000 years ago (give or take) I made a chassis for a boxcab, but it is in pieces right now. It used Tomytec TM-04 chassis trucks and that chassis is no longer made or available.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nwo9pXfqMLib5HAMEQWIh7ihFxpE-fyqf6vBfegkxqUVSoME1ufPH6szif-tEYnhr5CsxO2HvphZWXnXNBIlOUka09VjqOqPhZeDHIM1ICp0_E34Hs_ry8ecnygbYFBDlxqoIooIkWzDpzXjmMigL53rT8iMsm1BPa5qwb9AeMEdR7Itd_PE2zqgdlXsaoua3Br8YT6uEP-Bh6JzXuLyTd0T2UzENxJeffz-lK3hYNS7E5zSfqAqnvu9a2n6oQD3-CgBCGfujsDcfQS32tP185Jo3CJQiG5sgJ2T753DQQNcO_v2p34LQISyLcLrl8h4wpukAciI1MUj4C-c4rPGWC5POX0T6WCAdALFabtDqIEJtdl1Ogi5zJCOk8jmT8LkrcnpBrM5PPD198ngX5k-6bykmn1azFApxQ6Ih1j82A-6jZ87sqKZVGEBiCREmgdeiAe4GWgdbY05FD3IlaCGVvKCxbOxJXjgvqEcldd54Zjs9_rhggKvmCbLmfz6AGQwmkeayEBkxdbxsF42ha81bqUxQaAKruaYoZmsA3pJnyCxwOECOa-N7p8bgGxPLHJbK0QZ7INRwx_e25_PcQV-TEWYac0m4pkPairc6NMSgIrUjWqLtwX-EDF04jESz2LUxQdrikor9q00pYK0JGo8ucrB-mjnK3ahNKpOHvVSQ7PYmKDqSrpQO6FIREKGKPA9uZVmWB-9Q2LybObrSqeydMQ=w1000-h650-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
I even make etch artwork:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8xUfXjnVX7fyZC02X-WzbmW08-_HwR-3MZYc7rJDVRySTqixvXkDZE4TkdJAb1G6Uv11UPYoHQZgC_vPNeFagkNlAbEnOPwgJ1QIGWrdyhizCLVp8g0i3941oA9Pnvqw0pRCgpmyZjVeNBy2HJhvXKoPvzyX1oWYzhSx0TRH3jvkuJf1Iw7SkUO5kuRybLVSKV-AulceJ9_M5Iak8lnWqH0u1voB1nOgHAz00YwtNQdI4M8qyjrZogS45MuGpNUqW2s73Ns_h8mrZuRDuT-RmtdYbpZdZyYfTeXP2SJGZ5ISF7-i6C65hSSxIa6XNWM77shtyleK9FKZHi0kg0UEtwYo6reEbnKftwvwwfIUTI_Ifvupyqum2gb1hPLHUqLaDqnGJVa6yBfdMvP8_EpGbBBSYqvH2af-bzADMToSuKcLfof5wylN6VTtPL62aAfwTBLejmGe0Ztj40mPQO8q9uSwx7iTw-Py31SJg8KBZ2z-l6J5J_wRuPR5bB-3e5O1aNmGt-iuXRoyUqcQ_ZGHsGDq7Xe4ZqtGy-TF5IRbjUp4Q1a5zudMJfC4FIBlgDSgTFZFEeUyiAJwIVSq_kvQtJwdtacIKnOk09V4b7l5w_vNUpuAqh7hcJgI165oDBzDT2sECWu31T7yQJXGlk4yYD5Qu9UqKxwWCiqjOiSrLWsQCnHu4AgzI4nb-60iZ_3G_B53tRF0kV0b3RFIcYLvEMQ4=w1000-h856-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
But I only got this far (the small one is Z scale)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eUSDL1EJmihZ71i1ytmnMebHASbh2FK5nBirLoj8FZVa7nb395QC45ArSjDLUYdzWYQqBzMPbcsaNXkxz4orzDdRn_0eV3m1WSyNxyLme0LJKPx8F2Fdz2LF9byk18PnxDKKaT_nvazXkivSV-7xj003M_bWs5LKURqv4F6OUcpCN_qj8YrfQzA825ZaoFbcKWv5rp3OF_Csi0YwyVlCcwcxruMENHHqOy4DGYs610s3l9sW1_nO0LVpS6ikuR4mrKmUmuozvFR9DO73bHSjfL7Zeb2wWw4acyQz5qWcsPjrQ_6Q-PqDzxoiJ_OkmhGb9oYQ6br-OGbdPhUBhGaZ7F-L6rQ36uqK6-t_uzPuoOYHXVkKze2me2Du6pnqw5VpnX8FqPU1zjlnkYirGfnAqPtNp6AkiIrFGCGNkNKCnQoeOdQI_F6ZBTs-QGHuF3zr7e6MPRyXKY2lVRy-DO7QARnXo4skwaD0WTZdqK9w_UeYU2MDnzNavIwh61kNN1S4u3Te7gzFT2yJna7Wmt5MvT4Jj7jWPH60bZSiZSNWUNnX9ShjOJfn7aPujx1Vrw0DoqkB4OqD_z3Q4Ca7UrBS7B6RLRUX-UJ3H-8UzN28Kux_d4Cwr620hiOSM6GSEDPaK8vCRI-mltEl1w5cbzONNY3LWU66gleuzgKHYbqMvSLHYAOztxjhGHH3newHdBYw68UezXdHvxMZIqiFMMqDDeqX=w1000-h767-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
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Math question :facepalm: or am I even looking at this right?
The coupler situation on the 44 tonner is tight I can make the boxcab to scale and make it fit the chassis. But there is like no room left for couplers.
The 44T frame is 2.058" long and my current hole for it is 1.993" long. Won't fit. So instead of stretching the whole model 10 scale inches, I just want to slightly upsize the whole body. This will keep proportions looking right.
1.993 is 96.84% of 2.058. So if I scale the whole model up 3.16% will this make my opening 2.058" :?
I could just do it and print it out to find if I'm right, but that is a waste of resin.
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If you scale it in your modeling program, can you not measure it in there?
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Not really. I make it in Sketchup and export it in a different file. Then I use Netfabb to resize and check for errors. And use ChiTuBox to add the supports.
I just tried to figure it out again and got 3.27% instead of 3.16%.
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Would stretching it 10" N scale really be noticeable? That would keep the height and width correct at least. My calculations come in at .0625 or 1/16 or an inch. Then again up sizing proportionally shouldn't be all that noticeable either.
I was wondering if that the new boxcab was the same as a dim memory of an old etch, seems that my question was answered. Liking the recent progress, the LIRR is a gem.
Lucas
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This might not be helpful, really, but I get 3.2614%. (.065/1.993 x 100 to give percentage- with apologies to modern math teachers who no doubt have a completely different way to do this) I would speculate that 3.27 will get you there, with the extra fraction of a thousandth to give you space for getting it together. Plus, of course, being within .005 over 2 inches is probably getting close to the practical resolution of the printer in any case.
And I would not worry too much about anyone noticing. If I was going to get that picky with calipers, I would have to part with 90% of my collection.
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Would stretching it 10" N scale really be noticeable? That would keep the height and width correct at least. My calculations come in at .0625 or 1/16 or an inch. Then again up sizing proportionally shouldn't be all that noticeable either.
I was wondering if that the new boxcab was the same as a dim memory of an old etch, seems that my question was answered. Liking the recent progress, the LIRR is a gem.
Lucas
Scaling up the whole model is much easier than just stretching it one way. And yep the new one is the same size as my old etch since I popped the old model in my scanner and traced it ;)
Printing 3.27% now to see if that works.
Thanks guys.
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Success.
The bottom one is 3.27% larger, you can barely tell and now the chassis fits without any cutting.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWl1-qFrgXIag8ZKUWLs0cichqeag1rREb-AHuGQpqIK1xw1rm8DMjTqQiZnvxLyyFvkQ-wfCnj33Z3a-jMEn_IYT8fPk21YFvBfLLR0QW8_dm-KfNE-32KON-c8k9o1kX9Un9QjW7ykCYnV4fZHKI5Ww=w978-h938-no?authuser=0?.)
I could have milled the chassis to make it fit, but I wanted it to fit a stock chassis. Someone other than me may want to build one of these and wouldn't be willing to mill the chassis down.
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Math question :facepalm: or am I even looking at this right?
The coupler situation on the 44 tonner is tight I can make the boxcab to scale and make it fit the chassis. But there is like no room left for couplers.
Maybe using the MTL short T-shank coupler would work? Like the one used on the first generation Atlas Shay? I don't remember the coupler part #.
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Here shows the coupler situation. On the left you can see there is barely enough width to fit a 00-90 screw into it. The right is a 1015 coupler.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVbR12DCR8A_2QEoo1dn88M2XFBZ5tjg_abV5W-FLdlsQWQPlrF1ZpDUdl2D6vRYq5u5mamAi7dGdxrMFb8GDqOt_i7oFusa8J_vQmoNNYYPet9xQ5egV2DQ2IRZyb9J6IxbrwEAeDAEEWMs0oU-M16HQ=w1000-h381-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
It might look like the coupler is sticking way out.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWE-iSc5ONndiw18fmElCs3unRRDR_r3MxRfvzzIrXC4WI9KHqn6d_oCEp6e4RzpqeFU8pVUqPIRk2YHIEdNP1b0X9HF3fE1qNTuT-OloDFpXoBQuRCQWEIHznlJcdlmEfrE17G9ruhFREVrRe0dJ63qQ=w1000-h938-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
But the pilot sits on top of the coupler box.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUW3q7yYd7z_8Ix2UOOXqc6cfrJaFwwDbUpKjuyvGm5OR5mTwe1Mt0gDwmTayT8Wp8oEfSkn9tvL9B8WsgaNj9HS1gnGlNTUkiQPQWV27_Zs_SPPzUwWlVok2dMd0Py0kEfmxcf7F3BM-AsqP_LY6uysg=w1000-h938-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
Pilot is just sitting loose here. The gap will close when I glue it on.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXEqC7Wkf1gu2qcNUj2KD0fLAEX2ASsImsAsUA09BE4ltvbBtA3qWy_SHiM8qEsiuypDBgzJSHJErBDXEktaQuQh-jr4o9yd6TiNnT5T_2M1d4lcd648Fq4UK1D1mSQSLfllxSrZN6ssoHnynNSaNbqmQ=w1000-h875-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
And here is the roof with the mufflers and radiators.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXc3yE8NdwemOUQu6hx1zPoaO3KS6MDxf2i9PwghhyZTYdlJ4XmAYMQ688jEO3SYKHyORwdCrZK78oCpFTbGv1i-6ImgZ7BnxddJVSOSc-zYjXoe8Y8JV9ifP7l_hfS86AJ7JtX8iR9OtRGiQNffrSfuA=w1000-h447-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
And I knew the whole time that the "fuel tank" area of the 44T would need cut out so I guess someone will be milling the frame anyways :P
Also the Bachmann 70T has larger dia wheels that are correct for the boxcab. Trucks are the same so just order new wheels. But Bachmann lists the 44 and 70T wheels as the same part number when they are clearly different. :facepalm:
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And back to the shorty Long Island cab. I'm not a modern diesel person. Is there a 6 wheel Kato truck out there that has 6mm wheels and a 18mm WB on the two outside wheels? I would like to make up another chassis by adding a motor to a single truck with the center wheel removed.
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Yep, that’s it.
Going to have to dig into what 0-8-0’s or 2-8-2’s, Japanese or European might have “close” driver diameters and wheelbase.
@wazzou
A bit off topic, but maybe something like this?
https://www.fleischmann.de/en/product/242978-0-0-0-0-0-0-002001-0/products.html (https://www.fleischmann.de/en/product/242978-0-0-0-0-0-0-002001-0/products.html)
Thomas
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Maybe using the MTL short T-shank coupler would work? Like the one used on the first generation Atlas Shay? I don't remember the coupler part #.
I wonder if that is the same as the coupler MTL used on their own FT- which is a very tight fit? The FT coupler has a custom bracket to allow attachment to the FT chassis, but if that were cut down, the remaining coupler would fit in a lot of places too small for a 1015 (etc). I could not find it in the coupler listings, but the FT frequently makes it into MTL train sets, and to repair some FTs a few years ago, I was able to acquire some couplers via customer service with an assist from Joe.
The 1021/1022 might also work, if the mounting tab at the back can be made to clear the trucks, or just be removed and the coupler box glued or otherwise attached-
https://www.micro-trains.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_109&product_id=334
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@wazzou
A bit off topic, but maybe something like this?
https://www.fleischmann.de/en/product/242978-0-0-0-0-0-0-002001-0/products.html (https://www.fleischmann.de/en/product/242978-0-0-0-0-0-0-002001-0/products.html)
Thomas
Thanks Thomas. I’ll see what information I can find about those.
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Thanks Thomas. I’ll see what information I can find about those.
If would like to get an idea about what the mechanism of that 2-8-2T loco looks like, check out the parts diagram: https://www.fleischmann.de/en/printpdf/pdf.html?id=242978 (https://www.fleischmann.de/en/printpdf/pdf.html?id=242978)
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These are the MTL couplers I was thinking about for the boxcab.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/26/2700-281121001024-266621933.png)
The 1131 is a retrofit for Bachman Rapido coupler type they used in the '80s. It includes a coupler box which snaps into the Bachmann mounting shelf, but you would need to fabricate (or 3D-print) your own mount
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Incredible work. This Old Dog needs to learn some new tricks ;)
-Buddy
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[attachimg=1]
A few simple mods to the design and you have an electric from Iowa.
Randy
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I have Coos Bay Lumber #11 plans. Is that what you wanted?
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/26/109-211121064606.jpeg)
Shame how she lost her life, on the wrong coast and nowhere near decent trees,
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@Chris333 - NICE WORK! When I did my CNJ 1000 I got hung up on the couplers too. I went with the 44 tonner mechanism, which runs sweet, but the truck swing is limited by the back of the draft gear. At first I was using 905s with draft gear cut to fit. I've since switched over to true scale couplers on my rolling stock and not gotten back around to getting the 1000 working again.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/26/2646-091221085133.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=26800)
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I bet those grab irons were fun :scared: I thought about doing that, but just tried to match mass produced freight car grabs. Mine do each have a mounting lug with a bolt that are so small you can't see them.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUwyZ5nypkC2P6al9M2cztuVogR9Zf_-AIDPYxGel5eZ9XrgY9S44RzwBQObzh83QvvTTNTQgsbNwhgq7sVb5o__lOG4Cwz73YsGJ_El-eINSvn2gB9v6FP6CqyIU1uencznQyiCx0TvHQwrZnwKNjJyw=w1000-h806-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
CNJ 1000 had the side sheet metal that wrapped up and around the roof. Later versions like Erie had used a separate sheet for the roof.
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I printed all the mounting holes for all the grabs and details. It’s as simple as plugging in the part :D
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I uploaded the 3D files for the Long Island boxcab if anyone cares:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5199307
I'll upload the bigger boxcab once I get a final version.
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It would seem I have many projects going on at once. :)
For the large boxcab I made a print that fits over the chassis and then the body sets on it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWOchl7vA_qTdAk1eQ_QSGPIJJKQW7rR9D9XRtop5dYBo_XcdfTKSlTslZsnFyIJIT6IuQ7kKFr9LlN9Th19ju426r2hwh0rIjpOH4UdRyISA9X_L2bXIBX0d6kSK9-UPAAqZegb1jOqNC5_2569H0ETw=w1000-h575-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXAv8Kgymy_6XDV9eRbhLQnJClOWlCGUinbQeaxRCMyUxs6cm48IGr3GSRO-zvL4Df36e_-gJPzszS7VAe8LnchTqR-pwQihIngOxr40L38Sgn6f8DNc62wiA3IPWiCugJom-QzWgwJVAg36KZnUhAEww=w1000-h575-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
Now all it need it the air tanks hanging down between the trucks.
And the smaller boxcab got the roof railings installed.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUI8cFJofgfrAS5peRZ2Sqg93oECZJVEF-4Cb90r9VHnwdOVIew-RVUTpI0GP7A0FPQDzsic-7y1pk5-WLyM79W5jV9LEdSEq2p5kbPhvJoZ4z3wHEFEV3ryylf4PrviENGCG0G63JP7EDe3DiQjB80SA=w1000-h709-no?authuser=0?.jpg)
I made a 3D jig to solder them. :P