TheRailwire
General Discussion => Weathering, Detailing, and Scratchbuilding => Topic started by: rodsup9000 on July 20, 2021, 12:42:43 AM
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By 1950, the WP was still servicing several sawmills in the canyon. Here is a list of what I've found so far in my search.
2 sawmills owned by High Sierra Pine in Oroville. One of the mills was together with Koppers treatment plant for ties and lumber.
Diamond Match in Oroville
Kenneth Metzger Lumber at Sloat
High Sierra Pine at Grays Flat
Graeagle Lumber just outside of Blairsden Graeagle (pronounced "gray eagle") was a "mill town"
California Fruit Exchange box factory by Graeagle lumber
Delleker Lumber Just outside of Portola (not sure if this was in operation in 1950. Very little info on it)
Essex Lumber and Meadow Valley, both serviced by the Quincy RR and interchanged with the WP.
I have Long Valley Lumber from Russ (N Scale Architect) and it is somewhat compressed. It's built and going to be used in Quincy (can be seen in my layout thread in Quincy). For the one at Blairsden, I have 14" X 36" space for it. While looking around researching sawmills, I found this one that was just outside of Quincy.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/ihv4KM.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poihv4KMj)
Photo is from "Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship" website
Getting started with the basic mill building. The power house, planing mill, drying kilns and storage will come later. The main mill measures 175 ' long X 105' wide (about 13 1/2" X 8") so far. Still need add docks and awnings.
I got some new stuff to try for the sides that's only .016" thick. It's resin impregnated kraft paper and it's pretty stiff. I'm hoping that I can get the kerf on my laser down to about .010". The thickness is about 2 1/2" in N scale and with a thin kref, it should look like boards.
Windows, doors and other details will be printed.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/bsXqA3.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnbsXqA3j)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/MyrnUb.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmMyrnUbj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/wl1oGN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/powl1oGNj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/K2GZbC.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmK2GZbCj)
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That looks like a great start!
Are you using SketchUp as the design tool?
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That looks like a great start!
Are you using SketchUp as the design tool?
Thanks Pete, Yes, I use Sketchup for all my 2D work for the laser and 3D for printing. For laser cutting, I first draw it in 2D, then copy and paste in another window. Then I add the thickness for 3D. Copy and paste to the part I'm building to test the fit. If if fits, I go on the the next. If it doesn't, I make the necessary changes in 2D and repeat. (edited) I draw everything full size, then reduce it by .00625% to get it to N scale.
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Exterior framework to be cut out of 1/16" plywood. Still needs some work, but it gives me a idea of what it'll look like. Plan on gluing the board by board siding (cut from .011" PolyBak) on this framework. Just have to see if it'll work. If I can't get the PolyBak to look like wood, I'll have to cut it out of 1/64"' plywood (expensive stuff) or see if I can find some 1/64" basswood sheets.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/DQ27dT.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDQ27dTj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/OSr7AL.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmOSr7ALj)
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Thanks for your answer Rod. Looks like have quite a few design hours invested in this model so far. Very impressive design!
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If you draw at full size doesn't that slow down Sketchup?
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Exterior framework to be cut out of 1/16" plywood. Still needs some work, but it gives me a idea of what it'll look like. Plan on gluing the board by board siding (cut from .011" PolyBak) on this framework. Just have to see if it'll work. If I can't get the PolyBak to look like wood, I'll have to cut it out of 1/64"' plywood (expensive stuff) or see if I can find some 1/64" basswood sheets.
Hello Rod,
Any idea where you can purchase Polybak sheets in anything smaller than 31" x 97"... I'd be very interested in the 0.011" thick material for cutting windows for HO scale, but don't see the need for an 8' long roll!
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Jeff
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Thanks for your answer Rod. Looks like have quite a few design hours invested in this model so far. Very impressive design!
Thanks Pete, and yes I have more hours than I care to say. (mistakes mostly)
Hello Rod,
Any idea where you can purchase Polybak sheets in anything smaller than 31" x 97"... I'd be very interested in the 0.011" thick material for cutting windows for HO scale, but don't see the need for an 8' long roll!
Thanks for any info you can provide.
Jeff
Hey Jeff,
I'm going to try to get a couple of sheets in a week or two. I'll send you a PM when I get it and send you some.
If you draw at full size doesn't that slow down Sketchup?
Chris,
I don't see any differences in the speed whether it full size or scale. I do notice that when I have lots of lines (like brickwork on my sugar warehouse), my computer slows down a lot. But it didn't matter whether it was full size or N scale.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/3D5lBy.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm3D5lByj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/bgThtm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnbgThtmj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/uwTtS0.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pouwTtS0j)
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@rodsup9000 I just want to say that you're the cutting edge modeler that I wish I was.
Keep pushing the envelope man!
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Hey Jeff,
I'm going to try to get a couple of sheets in a week or two. I'll send you a PM when I get it and send you some.
Thanks Rod! I'd be more than happy to pay for the material and postage... If you can easily purchase large sheets, and are willing to cut them down into more manageable pieces, I'd gladly buy those from you should the material work out.
I've done custom windows and doors in thin cardstock (about 0.008" thick)... They look great, but require extensive sealing to prevent warping (before painting). It would be nice to find a thin and strong material that is less prone to warping.
Love the brick structure... I just started experimenting with brick myself (on my own laser... I work in HO scale). So far I've had good results in both fiber board (heavy cardstock more or less) and basswood, but both need to be braced heavily prior to painting. I used 1/16" thick material, but I can see why the few manufacturers that offer laser etched brick sheets and corner posts do it in 3/32" or 1/8" thick material. May try a laser friendly plastic next.
Jeff
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@rodsup9000 I just want to say that you're the cutting edge modeler that I wish I was.
Keep pushing the envelope man!
Thanks, Ed. To be honest, I get more enjoyment out of building things (like the laser) than using them. It's like a challenge to me to see if I can do it.
Thanks Rod! I'd be more than happy to pay for the material and postage... If you can easily purchase large sheets, and are willing to cut them down into more manageable pieces, I'd gladly buy those from you should the material work out.
I've done custom windows and doors in thin cardstock (about 0.008" thick)... They look great, but require extensive sealing to prevent warping (before painting). It would be nice to find a thin and strong material that is less prone to warping.
Love the brick structure... I just started experimenting with brick myself (on my own laser... I work in HO scale). So far I've had good results in both fiber board (heavy cardstock more or less) and basswood, but both need to be braced heavily prior to painting. I used 1/16" thick material, but I can see why the few manufacturers that offer laser etched brick sheets and corner posts do it in 3/32" or 1/8" thick material. May try a laser friendly plastic next.
Jeff
What size would be convenient for you??? and how many do you want??? I had read on another forum that Richland Industries will ship 4X8 sheets rolled up in a tube and shipping was around $15.
I've done the same for windows and trim pieces and didn't like the outcome. That why I started printing them long ago, first with the FDM printer and now on the Photons. I've tried brick on plywood and didn't like the way it turn out. I experimented with acrylic on the old K40 laser I had, and it was way better that the wood trial I'd tried. I did my sugar warehouse out of .062" acrylic on the new 100 watt laser I just built. Here is a closeup of the brick detail.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/i9CgW8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pni9CgW8j)
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About 5 years ago I bought small sheets of Polybak on ebay. They were a little larger than 8.5x11, but shipped in a cardboard envelope.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164536925742
Says he has other thicknesses, but couldn't find them.
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My source for laserboard is here:
https://encompass-media.salesvu.com/
Sells it in 12"x24", various sizes. Also sells other laser materials.
Sam
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Thanks, Ed. To be honest, I get more enjoyment out of building things (like the laser) than using them. It's like a challenge to me to see if I can do it.
I totally get that.
I've got to say, I still thought about using those tortoise mounts you sent me for the last layout on the current one. Absolutely genius!
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I think I'm almost ready to do some cutting. Just need to add tabs for the roof sheeting.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/E2UBME.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnE2UBMEj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/Koa6Mn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmKoa6Mnj)
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My source for laserboard is here:
https://encompass-media.salesvu.com/
Sells it in 12"x24", various sizes. Also sells other laser materials.
Sam
Thanks Sam, that's exactly what I was looking for!
About 5 years ago I bought small sheets of Polybak on ebay. They were a little larger than 8.5x11, but shipped in a cardboard envelope.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164536925742
Says he has other thicknesses, but couldn't find them.
Thanks Chris...
Jeff
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What size would be convenient for you??? and how many do you want??? I had read on another forum that Richland Industries will ship 4X8 sheets rolled up in a tube and shipping was around $15.
I've done the same for windows and trim pieces and didn't like the outcome. That why I started printing them long ago, first with the FDM printer and now on the Photons. I've tried brick on plywood and didn't like the way it turn out. I experimented with acrylic on the old K40 laser I had, and it was way better that the wood trial I'd tried. I did my sugar warehouse out of .062" acrylic on the new 100 watt laser I just built. Here is a closeup of the brick detail.
Sam provided a link that I can buy smaller sheet sizes from, so I'll give that a go instead. But thank you for the offer!
I could see where brick on birch plywood wouldn't work, plywood has its quirks when laser cutting. I was going to give bricks a go on some acrylic sheet. I have some 0.08" thick stock, which is the perfect thickness for making brick sheets that interlock at the corners (cause my bricks are about that long). If that works OK, I'll have to source a different acrylic material as the stuff I have cuts fine, but stress fractures at the etch and cuts lines like crazy.
So you built yourself a 100W machine? Nice! Share some photos of it if you don't mind... Been in the laser cutting field for about 29yrs now. Thought about building my own system, but decided on buying one of the larger machines on ebay (12" x 20" work area, 50W laser).
Jeff
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So you built yourself a 100W machine? Nice! Share some photos of it if you don't mind... Been in the laser cutting field for about 29yrs now. Thought about building my own system, but decided on buying one of the larger machines on ebay (12" x 20" work area, 50W laser).
Jeff
Here is what I got. It has a 22"X38" bed, 100 watt RECI tube (made before they started selling rejects to other manufactures in China). I also have a true 50 watt tube (sold as a 60 watt) that I can switch out when I want finer kerfs. I have 2 fume extraction fans on it. One is hooked up directly to bed to make a vacuum table and the other one for the whole cabinet extraction.
Here is a buildlog that I did as I built it.
https://rdworkslab.com/viewtopic.php?f=159&t=5526
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/N5zScd.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poN5zScdj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/YYBimX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poYYBimXj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/P3XHad.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmP3XHadj)
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Here is what I got. It has a 22"X38" bed, 100 watt RECI tube (made before they started selling rejects to other manufactures in China). I also have a true 50 watt tube (sold as a 60 watt) that I can switch out when I want finer kerfs. I have 2 fume extraction fans on it. One is hooked up directly to bed to make a vacuum table and the other one for the whole cabinet extraction.
Damn impressive Rod!! I read through all the build posts in the link you sent... I'd consider building one if I had a larger mill and lathe, but mine are too small to make the parts necessary for such a machine. Maybe in retirement, when I hope to buy larger machine tools for my shop.
That you can do this sort of thing now days, with off the shelf components, is pretty darn incredible...
I like your fume/smoke exhaust system. I rigged up my machine with a booster fan, but it's just a small HVAC 6" duct fan, which does help, but doesn't provide a lot of draw. Just enough to help boost the exhaust provided by the fan on the back of my machine (which is a good sized high flow/speed PC case fan by the looks of it).
For a smaller kerf, I purchased a compound lens assembly (two focusing optics) from Cloud Ray, on the recommendation of the guy that designed it. I wanted a super narrow laser kerf for cutting my own shingle stock. The standard lens has a kerf of about 0.008" when I take a lot of time to find the absolute focal point. The compound lens cuts that down to about 0.004"-0.005" and when I use a small leveling table on the machine (which I built myself) that kerf width is consistent over the whole working range.
The compound lens assembly works really well and is not a very expensive upgrade, though it is a process to go from one set up to the other. The only other downside is that the nozzle height for the compound lens assembly is about 2.5X that of the standard lens. Which basically means you don't get the same effect from the cutting gas (compressed air for most) pushing the vaporized material through the kerf. But I only use it for shingle stock, which is about 0.005" thick, so it's not so much of an issue. I cut/etch all other materials using the standard set up.
Thanks for sharing the photos of your machine and the link to the build... It is a fascinating project that has me thinking!
Jeff
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Damn impressive Rod!! I read through all the build posts in the link you sent... I'd consider building one if I had a larger mill and lathe, but mine are too small to make the parts necessary for such a machine. Maybe in retirement, when I hope to buy larger machine tools for my shop.
That you can do this sort of thing now days, with off the shelf components, is pretty darn incredible...
I like your fume/smoke exhaust system. I rigged up my machine with a booster fan, but it's just a small HVAC 6" duct fan, which does help, but doesn't provide a lot of draw. Just enough to help boost the exhaust provided by the fan on the back of my machine (which is a good sized high flow/speed PC case fan by the looks of it).
For a smaller kerf, I purchased a compound lens assembly (two focusing optics) from Cloud Ray, on the recommendation of the guy that designed it. I wanted a super narrow laser kerf for cutting my own shingle stock. The standard lens has a kerf of about 0.008" when I take a lot of time to find the absolute focal point. The compound lens cuts that down to about 0.004"-0.005" and when I use a small leveling table on the machine (which I built myself) that kerf width is consistent over the whole working range.
The compound lens assembly works really well and is not a very expensive upgrade, though it is a process to go from one set up to the other. The only other downside is that the nozzle height for the compound lens assembly is about 2.5X that of the standard lens. Which basically means you don't get the same effect from the cutting gas (compressed air for most) pushing the vaporized material through the kerf. But I only use it for shingle stock, which is about 0.005" thick, so it's not so much of an issue. I cut/etch all other materials using the standard set up.
Thanks for sharing the photos of your machine and the link to the build... It is a fascinating project that has me thinking!
Jeff
Jeff,
I sent you a PM
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Rodney,
That’s an impressive setup you’ve got. I was thinking about power settings yesterday. As I noted, I use a 40w
laser but one can set the power setting when sending the job to the laser. As an example, when working on small parts on the 0.011” stock, I usually use between 20 and 25% power as the higher settings simply destroy smaller parts. I imagine your setup has something similar? My experience is the kerf varies depending on power setting and material.
Sam
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Rodney,
That’s an impressive setup you’ve got. I was thinking about power settings yesterday. As I noted, I use a 40w
laser but one can set the power setting when sending the job to the laser. As an example, when working on small parts on the 0.011” stock, I usually use between 20 and 25% power as the higher settings simply destroy smaller parts. I imagine your setup has something similar? My experience is the kerf varies depending on power setting and material.
Sam
Sam,
Thanks, as I've said before, I just enjoy building toys that I can use.
Yes, I can adjust the power in setup or on the fly and your right, if too much is used, it'll burn your work. Too little and it won't cut all the way through.
I have a compound lens that Jeff talked about, but have yet to try it. I think it should work great for getting the kerf down to what I want for the siding on the sawmill. If I cannot get the PolyBak to look like wood, I'll have to buy some 1/64" plywood (expensive) for the siding.
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As usual, I screwed up. I deleted one of the modified sides by mistake and cut out the wrong one, and didn't catch it till I already cut the parts out.
I spent a couple of hours on laying the parts out to cut, trying to minimize the stock it take.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/nPxAxn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmnPxAxnj)
And the parts on the laser
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/rABypV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/porABypVj)
And here the parts
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/JFioTq.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmJFioTqj)
I got in a hurry and forgot to add the mortise and tenons to put the pieces together. Next to impossible to get everything square and even without them. These parts will go in the scrap bin for now. It usually takes me 2 to 3 tries before I get good fitting parts and everything works as it should.
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Why not cut a base out of scrap that is the size of the interior dimensions? Something cheap(ish) like 1/8” hardboard or similar. It can be used to align the parts and then, once assembled, the frame can be lifted free of the base.
The step I use between layout out parts and cutting them is to import the drawing into Fusion as a dxf file, extrude them to the appropriate thickness, and then literally build the object in Fusion from a clean sheet. Helps me find errors in the design and figure out ways to assemble the parts.
These parts are large enough to not have an issue, but with smaller parts I’ll gap the outermost line so the parts stay attached to the material. Prevents the loss of window frames and whatnot to the vacuum table. One thing I have noticed is, as parts get thinner and longer, they tend to move during the job and having tabs helps mitigate that.
Sam
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Why not cut a base out of scrap that is the size of the interior dimensions? Something cheap(ish) like 1/8” hardboard or similar. It can be used to align the parts and then, once assembled, the frame can be lifted free of the base.
The step I use between layout out parts and cutting them is to import the drawing into Fusion as a dxf file, extrude them to the appropriate thickness, and then literally build the object in Fusion from a clean sheet. Helps me find errors in the design and figure out ways to assemble the parts.
These parts are large enough to not have an issue, but with smaller parts I’ll gap the outermost line so the parts stay attached to the material. Prevents the loss of window frames and whatnot to the vacuum table. One thing I have noticed is, as parts get thinner and longer, they tend to move during the job and having tabs helps mitigate that.
Sam
I usually 3D print the bases for my structures, but I'm going to try to build this one without one. I'm learning all the time about what works and what doesn't. I have the tools needed to put it together the way it is, but If I ever wanted to make a kit to sell, I might as well fix it now.
The thing is, I built it 3D and didn't see the mistakes. I got the wall fixed and almost done adding tabs and slots on all the corners. I gap most of my stuff too.
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Here what I have now. Still need to make the floors.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/JrZ2Vm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmJrZ2Vmj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/WemOrV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmWemOrVj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/1BxW3b.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn1BxW3bj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/DYD3ve.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDYD3vej)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/DBv5jQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnDBv5jQj)
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Wow!! You can leave this as-is on a layout, throw some construction materials around it, and call it "a building being built".
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As usual, I screwed up. I deleted one of the modified sides by mistake and cut out the wrong one, and didn't catch it till I already cut the parts out.
I spent a couple of hours on laying the parts out to cut, trying to minimize the stock it take.
I got in a hurry and forgot to add the mortise and tenons to put the pieces together. Next to impossible to get everything square and even without them. These parts will go in the scrap bin for now. It usually takes me 2 to 3 tries before I get good fitting parts and everything works as it should.
Looks great Rodney!
Don't worry (not that you are), you're not the only one that screws up things and takes a few tries to get it right! I'm usually good for about the same number of tries before I get something dialed in.
I keep telling myself that I should design the parts in 3D, but have been sticking with 2D CAD for the laser cut stuff (I use Solid Works for locomotive mechanism design). But I've not bothered up to now...
I've been cutting parts from "chip board" lately, which is more or less thick cardstock (0.062" thick), though some suppliers pass it off as thin MDF. It comes in 15" x 24" sheets and at about $3 a sheet, and it is a lot cheaper for proofing laser cut parts than basswood or birch ply! Same can be said for screwing up parts in clapboard siding material... That gets expensive really quick, especially if your using 6" wide sheet material.
I get it at my local art supply store, which also has it 0.040" and 0.080" thick sheets.
Jeff
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Rodney,
That’s an impressive setup you’ve got. I was thinking about power settings yesterday. As I noted, I use a 40w
laser but one can set the power setting when sending the job to the laser. As an example, when working on small parts on the 0.011” stock, I usually use between 20 and 25% power as the higher settings simply destroy smaller parts. I imagine your setup has something similar? My experience is the kerf varies depending on power setting and material.
Sam
I always select a power level that gives me the best results... Usually a combination of power and feedrate that results in the smallest kerf (width of the laser cut) and good geometric accuracy. Because I'm not doing this as a source of income, time is generally not a concern when cutting parts.
Most of the materials and thicknesses we use (at least in HO or N scale) are pretty thin and don't require much laser power at all to cut and much less to scribe/engrave. As you or someone else mentioned, increasing the laser power generally increases the kerf and shifts the focal point of the laser accordingly.
It takes some experimentation and "playing" with your machine to get things dialed in, but once you get used to that, you can come up with some really good results consistently. I guess it's like anything else, practice makes perfect.
Jeff
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While searching for more information on sawmills, I found 2 photos of the Graeagle mill (.4 miles from the Blairsden station) that I'm trying to model. Now that I have the photos, I'm starting over. Here is the best photo of the two I found. Found it on a website about the history of Graeagle.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/moy00a.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pomoy00aj)
The power house appears to be masonry. Notice the odd roof line of the main building. The left side has two different angles on it and they are different than the one on the right.
This came form "UC Davis Library"
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/gmZypq.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pngmZypqj)
Working on the main mill building to get a good resemblance of the original mill.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/2H4HO8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm2H4HO8j)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/Gd5n5U.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poGd5n5Uj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/xMsNjg.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poxMsNjgj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/aTTfAU.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmaTTfAUj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/Qh8qAr.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmQh8qArj)
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Rodney, I am beyond impressed. Dang that is amazing!
Otto
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@rodsup9000 Not criticizing here, more nit-picking, being a former architecture student, I think the "barn: side of the building's roof pitch is much higher. Note how its peak is quite a bit taller than the gable on the potion that is perpendicular to it, proportionally to your model.
I suspect the side closest is a 6/12 pitch and the opposite side is 3 or 4/12, and then the second lower pitch is back to 6/12. The eave looks a little higher too.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/25/2711-300721134549.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=25037)
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I suspect the side closest is a 6/12 pitch and the opposite side is 3 or 4/12, and then the second lower pitch is back to 6/12. The eave looks a little higher too.
Hi John,
Thanks for your input.
I used just about what you have written on the photo, but I think where you wrote "6/12" should be 12/12. The way you have the lines drawn, it looks like about 45 degree angle to me.
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Here is the end with 12/12 on the right side. Does it look any better???
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/Ap2DPs.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmAp2DPsj)
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Rodney, I am beyond impressed. Dang that is amazing!
Otto
Hey Otto,
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words.
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Got more done and found some mistakes while putting it together in 3D. Still need to do a couple of walls and some more bracing yet.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/LJ4gxq.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnLJ4gxqj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/nW8sVC.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnnW8sVCj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/zqnsZt.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnzqnsZtj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/VAjJ7C.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnVAjJ7Cj)
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So it's sorta like you built the sawmill (laser) to build the sawmill.
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Here is the end with 12/12 on the right side. Does it look any better???
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/Ap2DPs.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmAp2DPsj)
Of course you are correct on the 12/12, and yes, I think much better!
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About 40 hours of design work, about 30 minutes to cut it out, and less than a hour to build. Still need to do the CAD for the outside walls and floors.
Here is what I got so far.
All the parts ready for assembly
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/N4FMvU.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnN4FMvUj)
And frame work all together
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/t4rVF4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmt4rVF4j)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/GxWyEf.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnGxWyEfj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/mg4sfD.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnmg4sfDj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/LuxnNh.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnLuxnNhj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/lxLIPk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/polxLIPkj)
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With roof. I was going to make the roof removable, but had one mistake that wont allow it. I could just sell this one and cut out another one. We'll see how well the sides go together.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/kCY0k9.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pokCY0k9j)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/HEaDEm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnHEaDEmj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/QkC3Po.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmQkC3Poj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/MA168F.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnMA168Fj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/bip3hZ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnbip3hZj)
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So it's sorta like you built the sawmill (laser) to build the sawmill.
Yea, I guess you could say that :D :D :D :D
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Very nice Rodney!
Looks like a lot of $$$$ in plywood!
Jeff
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Very nice Rodney!
Looks like a lot of $$$$ in plywood!
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff.
The framework was cut out of 1 piece of 18"X24", 1/16" thick plywood that cost just under $20 and the roof took about 3/4 of a sheet of 1/32" with a cost of about $8 a sheet. So yea, there a little bit of $$$$$$ in it so far.
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. . . and countless hours of design time. But since it is a hobby which you enjoy, those are (mostly relaxing) "hobby hours". :D
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Dang! Very impressive work.
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Dang! Very impressive work.
Thanks David
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Being I had just spot glued the roof parts on, I pulled them off to make it easier to slide the floor in.
I got 2 of the 3 floors glued in. All the walls are cut, but I didn't allow for the slopes of the roofs on the tops of the sides. Had to take a hobby knife and trim all of them.
I'm not gluing the sides or roof on this one, cause I made the decision to sell it when I get the windows printed, the log jack built and decking for the green chain. By the time it's ready to sell, I might have the log carriage, bandsaw and some of the other inside details printed along with some of the green chain parts.
Anyway, overall, I think it looks pretty close to the prototype in the photos.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/6BZmtk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm6BZmtkj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/v4ZOqK.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnv4ZOqKj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/TJlRHZ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmTJlRHZj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/Pcmaot.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmPcmaotj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/ZACqmX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poZACqmXj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/uL074O.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnuL074Oj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/o92tOa.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poo92tOaj)
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It is very interesting to watch your progress. Were any parts of the building painted, were they all just natural wood?
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It is very interesting to watch your progress. Were any parts of the building painted, were they all just natural wood?
I really can't tell, but I'm guessing that it was. The windows and trim around them was for sure painted.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/moy00a.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pomoy00aj)
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Being I had just spot glued the roof parts on, I pulled them off to make it easier to slide the floor in.
I got 2 of the 3 floors glued in. All the walls are cut, but I didn't allow for the slopes of the roofs on the tops of the sides. Had to take a hobby knife and trim all of them.
I'm not gluing the sides or roof on this one, cause I made the decision to sell it when I get the windows printed, the log jack built and decking for the green chain. By the time it's ready to sell, I might have the log carriage, bandsaw and some of the other inside details printed along with some of the green chain parts.
Anyway, overall, I think it looks pretty close to the prototype in the photos.
If it were a kit, what would be a realistic price based on materials and time and such? $200? More?
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I’d bet based on the contrast of the window panes, it was some sort of Indian or Barn Red.
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If it were a kit, what would be a realistic price based on materials and time and such? $200? More?
I don't plan on selling kits, but would make a few for the people around here. I hate doing "how to instructions". I can do follow the pictures OK.
I have just about $60 in plywood in it so far. Just the sawmill building (with windows, trim pieces and a few details pieces), ladder jack and boiler building would be about $120. The green chain (with details) and decking will add I'm guessing, at least another $100
I’d bet based on the contrast of the window panes, it was some sort of Indian or Barn Red.
Thanks Bryan
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It's a Masterwork of art @rodsup9000. It really is. And i hear ya on making instructions- it's a pita and likely a big reason why so may are so lame (and not just in the hobby).
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I have just about $60 in plywood in it so far. Just the sawmill building (with windows, trim pieces and a few details pieces), ladder jack and boiler building would be about $120. The green chain (with details) and decking will add I'm guessing, at least another $100
I did find a place to get plywood cheaper, $3.40 per square foot verses the $4.18 I've been paying. But what I've buying is 18"X24" sheets and fits the laser bed very nicely. The new place has 12"X48" sheets and I'll have to cut them to get them to fit into the laser. I've emailed them to see if they do custom cuts for some 18"X24" pieces.
(edit) Just got the email back and it's $4.50 for square foot for the custom cuts.
It's a Masterwork of art @rodsup9000. It really is. And i hear ya on making instructions- it's a pita and likely a big reason why so may are so lame (and not just in the hobby).
Thanks John
And that is the biggest reason I haven't started selling kits.
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By the time it's ready to sell, I might have the log carriage, bandsaw and some of the other inside details printed along with some of the green chain parts.
I was wondering if you'd go there. I am looking forward to what you come up with.
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Today was spent drawing the log ladder jack. I went about this a little different than what I usually do, cause I wasn't for sure what I wanted. I made it in 3D first, then took it apart to get the pieces drawn out.
Later down the road, I'll 3D print the chain and sprockets for it.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/aFolzk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmaFolzkj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/YZXSuS.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnYZXSuSj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/QPM71e.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poQPM71ej)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/yyQhyR.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poyyQhyRj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/k15TeH.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnk15TeHj)
Here is the parts that get cut. The railing will be cut out of 1/64" (.016") plywood. The group in the lower left will get cut out of 1/32" (.032") plywood, the upper right will be cut out of 3/64" (.044") plywood and the lower right group will be cut out of 1/16" (.063") plywood
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/12b6dz.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn12b6dzj)
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I printed a mill race up on a trestle and it will print. But I had to do 2 pieces because of the length.
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I printed a mill race up on a trestle and it will print. But I had to do 2 pieces because of the length.
I thought about printing it, but more than likely, it would have to be 3 pieces. The pond end will be in some sort of poured water and I don't know how the chemicals will react to the resin.
I'll cut one out of wood first and see how hard it is to put together. I don't have any tab and slots designed on any of the pieces yet. I'm still trying to decide how I want to do them.
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Yeah I guess if I had a laser I wouldn't have printed it.
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I printed a mill race up on a trestle and it will print. But I had to do 2 pieces because of the length.
I got one on the printer in one piece. I had to stand it on end and it's says it's 18 hour print. I guess we'll see in the morning how it printing.
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I got one on the printer in one piece. I had to stand it on end and it's says it's 18 hour print. I guess we'll see in the morning how it printing.
The log ladder jack printed OK, but it needs more support on the pond end. I added another small bent and printing another one. Have most of the windows printed, just started printing the log carriages and bandsaws.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/01lub7.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm01lub7j)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/LBcC9I.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnLBcC9Ij)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/uE2RnO.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pouE2RnOj)
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This is a new era for modeling.
A modeler can design their model in a CAD program, then instead of building it board-by-board from plans, they can use laser cutter and 3D printers to produce a "kit". How cool is that!
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This is a new era for modeling.
A modeler can design their model in a CAD program, then instead of building it board-by-board from plans, they can use laser cutter and 3D printers to produce a "kit". How cool is that!
Even better, once its designed you can make as many as you have the raw materials for.
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This is a new era for modeling.
A modeler can design their model in a CAD program, then instead of building it board-by-board from plans, they can use laser cutter and 3D printers to produce a "kit". How cool is that!
You know, Pete, I've been dreaming of the day I could do this. I've always wanted one of a kind structures on my layout that would set it apart from other layouts. If I had to do it by traditional ways, I wouldn't get very far. Getting the Photons really help accelerated my desire.
I guess you could call it "modern modeling". It's awesome if you have the tools and know how to use them effectively. The little K40 laser I had, worked OK , but just wasn't large enough to do a lot of structures I want to build.
Even better, once its designed you can make as many as you have the raw materials for.
Very true. And if you had the desire to make kits and sell them. I don't at this time, but if I have something somebody wants, I would make a kit for them with just photos on how it goes together.
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Very true. And if you had the desire to make kits and sell them. I don't at this time, but if I have something somebody wants, I would make a kit for them with just photos on how it goes together.
@rodsup9000 ^^^^Yes, this.
I started making albums online and adding simple explanations in the INFO section of each picture after rearranging them in the order of assembly to make sense for the kit builder. Complete in an hour or so from memory:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOsBgBodKZOnCyLdA7nznK1Pof25uE8Uu8_jqVqSpnjplQmka2CrPtLm2cO0tUEwQ?key=REdfdFNPeHhqZ1BrSXB0TVR2Mk9jSmZ6dDFYQ0R3
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@rodsup9000 ^^^^Yes, this.
I started making albums online and adding simple explanations in the INFO section of each picture after rearranging them in the order of assembly to make sense for the kit builder. Complete in an hour or so from memory:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOsBgBodKZOnCyLdA7nznK1Pof25uE8Uu8_jqVqSpnjplQmka2CrPtLm2cO0tUEwQ?key=REdfdFNPeHhqZ1BrSXB0TVR2Mk9jSmZ6dDFYQ0R3 (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOsBgBodKZOnCyLdA7nznK1Pof25uE8Uu8_jqVqSpnjplQmka2CrPtLm2cO0tUEwQ?key=REdfdFNPeHhqZ1BrSXB0TVR2Mk9jSmZ6dDFYQ0R3)
That something like I was thinking to do if I need to
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I've got a lot of hours in try to come up with what I think inside this mill would look like.
I will probably redraw some of the mill parts to make this work. I had to drop the floor 3 feet on the rear part.
Overall look at the green chain.
The California Fruit Box factory will be in the upper left beige area.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/Vr9CzG.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnVr9CzGj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/SDZeRZ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmSDZeRZj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/vWf6Gi.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmvWf6Gij)
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Rod,
That is a truly amazing model!
I am sitting on the edge of my chair waiting for your next post…
Cheers
Dirk
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I presume you are going to light the interior - how do you plan on running wires?
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Rod,
That is a truly amazing model!
I am sitting on the edge of my chair waiting for your next post…
Cheers
Dirk
Thanks for the very kind words.
I presume you are going to light the interior - how do you plan on running wires?
Yes, it'll have lighting. I'll probably use a AAA battery and keep all the wiring and LED's in the rafters.
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More playing around with the green chain. Made the bandsaws a little larger also.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/ZemhcG.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnZemhcGj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/jm6IxT.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmjm6IxTj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/TSocnv.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmTSocnvj)
I've started printing some of the green chain parts
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/47sZBy.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm47sZByj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/1jyemj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm1jyemjj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/6nnvjW.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm6nnvjWj)
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Not only you can design and make the building, you are familiar with its inner workings. Nice! I'm actually learning things here. 8)
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Technically, the Green Chain is outside of the mill where the lumber is graded and pulled into units of graded sorts by workers for dispersal to packaging once full.
I don't know if it's important to you but typically there would be a place where the first side cuts after the initial passes through the bandsaw are sent to either an edger for recovery of small fiber, to a grinder for Hog Fuel (where the bark usually goes) or a chipper for chips.
It looks like for the most part you're doing your homework though, good job.
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Technically, the Green Chain is outside of the mill where the lumber is graded and pulled into units of graded sorts by workers for dispersal to packaging once full.
I don't know if it's important to you but typically there would be a place where the first side cuts after the initial passes through the bandsaw are sent to either an edger for recovery of small fiber, to a grinder for Hog Fuel (where the bark usually goes) or a chipper for chips.
It looks like for the most part you're doing your homework though, good job.
Thanks Bryan.
You are one of the people that knows this sawmill stuff this very well.
If I understand what I learned, the edger saw cuts both edges off the cants, then the cants go through a slicing saw. The slicing saw cut the cants into rough dimensional lumber. Then the gang saw cuts it to length and cuts out the bad spots.
I want to have two different conveyors, one for chips and one that goes to the burner. I've haven't read yet what they would of used the chips for back in the 40's and 50's. I know a lot of the trash wood was sold as firewood.
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What is the period you’re modeling?
Never mind, I see you mentioned 40’s - 50’s.
I can PM the typical layout to you for your era, or if you wish, I can post it here.
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What is the period you’re modeling?
Never mind, I see you mentioned 40’s - 50’s.
I can PM the typical layout to you for your era, or if you wish, I can post it here.
Post it here and maybe help others.
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this.