TheRailwire
General Discussion => N and Z Scales => Topic started by: up1950s on March 27, 2020, 07:24:47 PM
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_53-270320191706.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=15961)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_53-270320191755.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=15962)
http://www.columbia.edu/~brennan/fun/16_finish.html
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Follow the link at the bottom of the first post .... go to the bottom of that page and then the Home page:
It's a series of articles and beautiful photos of funiculars in the UK. Well worth the time.
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RGS K-27 #455 climbs the grade to Lizard Head Pass at Bridge 57B, Gallagher, Colorado.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204053-159692107.jpeg)
Ophir, CO as seen from the Ridgway end of Bridge 45A.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204053-15969159.jpeg)
455 stops at 10,250-foot Lizard Head Pass for an air brake check before descending toward Ophir.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204052-159672362.jpeg)
Later, 455 is seen descending toward Ridgway over Bridge 45A at Ophir:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204052-1596716.jpeg)
Ridgway roundhouse:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204050-159652476.jpeg)
Leased D&RGW C-19 #345 rounds Windy Point with a short consist:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204050-15965112.jpeg)
RGS C-17 #42 waits at Rico, Colorado for the main to clear before taking the daily First District passenger train to Ridgway.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204048-159631075.jpeg)
In the early 40s a lot of oil from Farmington, NM still went north over the RGS:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204048-1596360.jpeg)
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Wow, Dave! Just, wow! :o :o :o
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2 more projects ready for the paint booth:
CP 9022
[attachimg=1]
NREX 5479 (ex CP B unit)
[attachimg=2]
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I'd already cross-posted this over on the narrow gauge earlier, but this was a commissioned custom build of my 18-ton Climax kit with the Nn3 drive and chassis I just finished. 25:1 gearhead drive, cross-kitted with the Kato and Rokuhan Z drive components.
That's Mark Graulty's printed tie strip with code 40 rail on it. "Does this locomotive make my rail look fat?"
(http://www.randgust.com/Clim183110.jpg)
Oh, and FANTASTIC photos Dave, so glad to see you up and posting after the bout with pneumonia.
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Not much, just made this turnout presentable.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/5630-270320222803.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=15972)
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(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/2815-270320225838.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=15973)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/2815-270320225943.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=15974)
Chicken sounds? How about a poultry car to match. This is a out of production brass kit from American N Brass from maybe the 80s? I love the see through effect with the screened siding. A one of a kind car for sure.
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Working on a caboose for the GB&W FA1's that I'm also working on. This isn't prototype (it should be wood-sided and the windows are wrong), but it will be a nice stand in. Waiting for the rest of the decals to come in the mail before I add the window glass.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
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Nate: Nice job on an ancient model - I think that one goes back to Con-Cor in the late 60s.
If you do another one, may I suggest shaving the rivets off? On a well-maintained car, the individual boards don't show that well, so a smooth side will do. Removing the rivets will take away any evidence that it's a steel car. I did that on some kitbashed Atlas cabooses back in the late 70s, for the GN, and they look good on the end of a train.
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Busy week for the WR&N VIII.
Scratchbuilt a little freight house:
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8598.jpg)
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8597.jpg)
Finished the passenger station:
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8620.jpg)
Finished the fuel oil tank, water tower and sanding tower for the engine facility:
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8673.jpg)
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8675.jpg)
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8672.jpg)
Also made progress with the brewery office:
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8650.jpg)
Then I arranged everything on the layout:
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8644.jpg)
More details in the Layout Engineering thread: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=49183.msg656152#msg656152 (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=49183.msg656152#msg656152)
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Nate: Nice job on an ancient model - I think that one goes back to Con-Cor in the late 60s.
If you do another one, may I suggest shaving the rivets off? On a well-maintained car, the individual boards don't show that well, so a smooth side will do. Removing the rivets will take away any evidence that it's a steel car. I did that on some kitbashed Atlas cabooses back in the late 70s, for the GN, and they look good on the end of a train.
I will try that the next time I do one; thanks for the suggestion.
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Rumble rumble went the hard working coal car. Then came the car that was old, the car that was new, the car that was yellow and the car that was blue. And the Little Red caboose tagged along behind. I've waited all my life to run the Merrimac Train!
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/9-280320103924.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=15976)
I have reached the pinnacle of my Retro experience.
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Oh, and FANTASTIC photos Dave, so glad to see you up and posting after the bout with pneumonia.
Well... Not exactly.
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Wow, Dave! Just, wow! :o :o :o
Wow and Wow spelled backwards.
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DKS,
I like how your feeder wires are soldered on the underside so that the are hidden by the ballast.
That's how I do it. Just more aesthetically pleasing- even though it might be a little harder.
(http://davidksmith.com/modeling/images/wrn8/IMG_8644.jpg)
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Returning to an older project. A needed to make loading platforms for the Missoula freight house. There are many mini projects for this building to finish it up. Railings for steps, light fixtures, roof supports, etc.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/542-280320131114.jpeg)
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Leased D&RGW C-19 #345 rounds Windy Point with a short consist:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/medium_1151-270320204050-15965112.jpeg)
I think you nailed it :)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/3-280320135103.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=15978)
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The FCN saw some much need attention the past two weekends.
I finaly got around to replacing the "Tube Lights" that have lit the layout from the begining.
The local Home Improvement store had a sale on LEDs, some weeks ago . 5000 Lumens versions... sooo..
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/newlights1.137412/full)
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/newlights2.137413/full)
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/newlights3.137414/full)
The layout is now a lot brighter than it has been. But, the LEDS are single bulb versions. I went from (10) fluorescents to (12) LEDs. I still will be doing some adjustments. Like adding some shade extensions in some locations...
Jerry G.
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Oakville is active - an Amtrak detour has run around an earthworm and returns to the WB main at Caliente...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49709258182_e7c7cff6aa_b.jpg)
3 months left...
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(https://sopacincg.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/20200328_104012-1256x1536.jpg)
looks like I am going to be violating Rule G
(https://sopacincg.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/6680-1024x576.jpeg)
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The FCN saw some much need attention the past two weekends.
I finaly got around to replacing the "Tube Lights" that have lit the layout from the begining.
The local Home Improvement store had a sale on LEDs, some weeks ago . 5000 Lumens versions... sooo..
The layout is now a lot brighter than it has been. But, the LEDS are single bulb versions. I went from (10) fluorescents to (12) LEDs. I still will be doing some adjustments. Like adding some shade extensions in some locations...
Jerry G.
@fcnrwy23 - I really like the way that looks. I have been going at basement remodeling in fits and starts (mostly fits) and running up against "budget constraints" because we have an old farmhouse, and roof and plumbing and whatnot get in the way of affording a major basement remodel. But your approach - clean it up, paint the block, install "sky" only where you need it (instead of drywalling the whole space) seems do-able as a spring project, without needing to hire a contractor. What material did you use for the "sky"? (noting the curved corner)
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Tom D.
The sky is (I had to go measure it! :P) 1/8 inch thick "hardboard", glossy smooth on one side, textured on the other. Out of a 4 x 8 foot sheet (48 x 96 inches), the sizes are 16 or 24 inches in height, 96 inches in length. This will give you, either 3 or 2 pieces per sheet. It will flex (bend) to a certain extent. Just make sure you have enough fasteners (screws) space evenly.
One other trick. It was suggested to me to paint the floor, "one block" up the wall. This helps hide any uneven floor... ;)
Jerry G.
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I’m sure this is meaningless to most of you but to me this is a major milestone: I finally got 3 of the Pennsy signals I have had for 40+ years wired. They were on my old layout unwired and on my current layout in their current (prototypical) positions for almost 10 years. They are grossly oversized but I still like them.
1) The old signals have 5 wire leads. One common and one each for the center (1 bulb), vertical (2 bulbs), diagonal (2), and horizontal (3) (includes the lower post bulb also). I currently have them wired to an Atlas selector which means I have to turn on the center bulb and also chose another aspect to turn on. Can someone tell me what kind of switch (how many poles; [4 throws (off/vertical/diagonal/horizontal)]) and how to wire the center light to come on with vertical/diagonal/horizontal positions without shorting and turning on all bulbs?) (@peteski where are you when I need you?)
2) While I am at it: How do you hook up and control the newer LED version? It has 3 wires (1 with a resistor). How do you change positions and what kind of switch do you need? The instructions that came with it are pretty useless.
3) And while I am asking is there a circuit that would show where adjoining block of separate throttles are both aligned to the same direction (vertical); aligned to opposite directions (horizontal) or one side off (diagonal)? All using track power (I do not have block sensors. It is a DC layout.)
I still have 2 old and 3 new signals that need to find a home on the layout
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/2065-280320150227.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/2065-280320150339.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/15/2065-280320150253.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/2065-280320155350.jpeg)
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Trim work is done on the station for now. There is supposed to be a cove molding where the roof meets the building but adding that throws off the proportion of the band around the top. I may just get frustrated enough to raise the roof .030" so I can add the molding, then again, I may not. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to see any of the trim under the eaves when it is on the layout anyhow.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
Edit - Forgot to add this shot. The roof is removable so I can eventually add interior and lighting. My problem is finding an actual picture or floor plan of the building when it was a station. The station is currently being used as a retail store for Joggers/Runners and has been completely remodeled inside.
[attachimg=4]
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I’m sure this is meaningless to most of you but to me this is a major milestone: I finally got 3 of the Pennsy signals I have had for 40+ years wired. They were on my old layout unwired and on my current layout in their current (prototypical) positions for almost 10 years. They are grossly oversized but I still like them.
1) The old signals have 5 wire leads. One common and one each for the center (1 bulb), vertical (2 bulbs), diagonal (2), and horizontal (3) (includes the lower post bulb also). I currently have them wired to an Atlas selector which means I have to turn on the center bulb and also chose another aspect to turn on. Can someone tell me what kind of switch (how many poles; [4 throws (off/vertical/diagonal/horizontal)]) and how to wire the center light to come on with vertical/diagonal/horizontal positions without shorting and turning on all bulbs?) (@peteski where are you when I need you?)
I'm here and ready to this on. Look in the Electronics/DCC forum (in few minutes from now). ;)
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The FCN saw some much need attention the past two weekends.
I finaly got around to replacing the "Tube Lights" that have lit the layout from the begining.
The local Home Improvement store had a sale on LEDs, some weeks ago . 5000 Lumens versions... sooo..
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/newlights1.137412/full)
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/newlights2.137413/full)
(https://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/newlights3.137414/full)
The layout is now a lot brighter than it has been. But, the LEDS are single bulb versions. I went from (10) fluorescents to (12) LEDs. I still will be doing some adjustments. Like adding some shade extensions in some locations...
Jerry G.
Jerry,
Good light is key, marked improvement!
Do you have a build thread?
Thanks!
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Here is two week's worth for me.
I continue to make slow progress on the next EP-2. Painted the red on the sand boxes. I know it sounds crazy, but that red is a couple of hours work carefully masking.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320193517-16086262.jpeg)
I finally got around to starting the process of patching my 3 GP39-2s.
I started with the easiest one- the D&H classic scheme.
I chose this road number because all of the heralds were intact.
(http://www.trainweb.org/csxphotos/photos/GP39-2/4318d&h.jpg)
I started with a stock unit.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320194444-16087782.jpeg)
I then used a #11 knife to scratch off the cab heralds and the road number on the body.
CSX decals added.
Then airbrushed with a very thin white to make the paint look old.
Then weathering with chalk to completed the model.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320193306-16080997.jpeg)
Body shell doesn't want to go down on this side. Got to check that out.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320193412-160831455.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320193430-16084289.jpeg)
Now just two more to go.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320193409-160822488.jpeg)
Also, one evening I was virus-bored. So I remembered a loco I had in parts somewhere.
Some of you will remember this thread: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=40776.0
And this locomotive drawing. Inspired by the nutty creative things people did in Mexico.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H-DEJ-UrnXXVLO3k58wb-9N1vZ8X1F-9hdRFiVydbLO9b5E7xCjGb9vqzd65tTOnQzoqeBgO1E0wc3AQVknMqlZhRtKJjz-Xs1piQtAU8sbzte-a2jQi__1Gck7479zwd-p0zR7OE_-r42_3CRyNvap6Sxj-zxedpGmP_VV_B4y3vWYF6IJpc3W267_ngqWt7RMoFIH-qHRlC4y8o75MkRvv3HKpgRfOOG2EU2Sn21ptrJvQT7JiYGAewO6tDBIr3_bT_h21rjDS64Jyfube5gdCrNROz1nPJaNvWEu33qF8UJBmBmAkv77KVHO-jAQ3XipIutIvuGzbCpMM4pKlPvCqKLoq4JCMyrrqmgQiamWjFPNeZ_PcpW0r8gIIjHYx1TIGl10sefkzWPZrPRJibXc8rT_sBWf7Y6NY1TRmWkPJPjd2P9KLx0FCW4F5qPxccKvIbMruTd1qHIMmXdOPig95O39Wqns2Q4z7y0T1Cr0xjjYU4ddtZOAmGWoaEQ7hiBKd8ek0-gbfQD4myjL0XK7W3cLYvDyJdoS0x9TTeVKh8cuPdMZllfTfv2kFYQdZ91JjGLF0JFJHRUq6kVisg7DeOet5oFz9VwDTu-5D_KRVeqImyxyezRDgf5GDeOH9yyfcyvY2Qjy81KKK_fyx2aGo3_XwzmSxROvW7x5qrVvEkdwm_t1nVHVWfouqfnq1m_Y=s1276-w1276-h613-no)
I had already built this (undec) years ago- but needed the parts for some reason. All I still had in my parts box was the undec portion below. So I gave it a chassis and a body shell, putting it back together.
Some day, it will get a paint job (though I have to make some decals for it first).
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/medium_1277-280320193432-160851990.jpeg)
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I just completed basic ground texture and ballast for the whole of Fort St John yard. None of my previous layouts ever got to the ballasting stage :facepalm: so this feels like a major accomplishment. Standard Woodland Scenics fine grey ballast was used throughout. The ground texture is a blend of grey and buff tile grout with a pinch of ground foam. Dirt tracks, gravel lots, grass, scrub and hay field textures will be added over the next few months.
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/20200329_115537.jpg)
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/20200329_115905.jpg)
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/20200329_131733.jpg)
(https://nscalefortstjohnsub.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/20200329_131237.jpg)
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Nate: You're welcome! Given the age of the body casting, anything more complicated would be overkill, and it seemed to be in keeping with the recent "retro" trend.
WM3798: I also have one of those PRR hoppers, original, from about 50 years ago. Except for body-mounted KD (pre-MT) couplers and an ACI label, it's basically stock. It has been heavily weathered, though, and I wouldn't recommend the method. At some point I brush-painted it black with Polly Scale paint, probably 40 years ago, and relettered it with dry transfers. No, I don't remember what the lettering was. Then, later, I stripped that off, leaving the original lettering, looking rather faded and worn. It looks good, but I wouldn't dare try to duplicate it!
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Tony - your station is really impressive. Do you have a layout thread or somewhere else that you post more information about how you put the station together and the materials that you used? Thanks! Bob
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Added the finishing touches to my PRR Lis "Lollipop":
Pilot air tank, smokebox platform step with grabs, GHQ pewter pilot and Unimate coupler.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/2711-280320160602.jpeg)
Added air tanks on each side of the loco:
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/2711-280320160358.jpeg)
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/2711-280320160342.jpeg)
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Tony - your station is really impressive. Do you have a layout thread or somewhere else that you post more information about how you put the station together and the materials that you used? Thanks! Bob
Thank you,
This building was started roughly 8 years ago. It is all based on layering flat sheets scribed with my vinyl cutter. There was a topic on here about using a vinyl cutter to cut plastic sheet, and then people also started using the Cricket cutters available from Hobby Lobby.
Here are the basic parts, steps...the roof is what stalled me for 8 years (and also lack of time) until finding a very nice tile roof sheet from JTT that was easier to deal with than the Faller sheet that I planned on using.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3][attachimg=4]
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Mike Madonna
Do I have a build thread?
For the layout, no.
Jerry G.
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Very little actual modelling recently, but I just set up a permanent workbench, so hopefully that will improve. There’s a bookcase supporting one end that has the vast majority or my railroad books, good to keep them close at hand.
(https://i.imgur.com/HWXXaol.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lTQ0S6F.jpg)
I also acquired one of my two dream cars, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-S in British Racing Green. Which probably means I won’t get much modelling done for a while. Impossible to say no at $100.
With five years of dust:
(https://i.imgur.com/N8oIfNm.jpg)
And letting the rain wash it all away
(https://i.imgur.com/a9f0rSz.jpg)
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I also acquired one of my two dream cars, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-S in British Racing Green. Which probably means I won’t get much modelling done for a while. Impossible to say no at $100.
BRG is my favorite shade of green, and it just looks so darn right on a proper Jag. And for only $100, that’s one helluva buy!
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... Impossible to say no at $100. ...
I'm presuming it doesn't run. My knowledge of the Jaguar V12 of that era ends right about at the point where you throw your tools against the garage wall in frustration attempting to get the tension right on the timing chain slack adjuster. :facepalm:
Body and trim are in fantastic shape, however. You got yourself a steal.
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In my continuing quest to finish old projects instead of start new ones during the down time...another long stalled project for a friend in our N-trak club. Should have it ready to paint tonight. Problem is there is one more to build. If you don't recognize the kit, it is from TrainCat. Has anybody heard from him recently?
[attachimg=1]
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If the V12 is toast, throw an LS under the hood and motor on.
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BRG is my favorite shade of green, and it just looks so darn right on a proper Jag. And for only $100, that’s one helluva buy!
I'm presuming it doesn't run. My knowledge of the Jaguar V12 of that era ends right about at the point where you throw your tools against the garage wall in frustration attempting to get the tension right on the timing chain slack adjuster. :facepalm:
Body and trim are in fantastic shape, however. You got yourself a steal.
If the V12 is toast, throw an LS under the hood and motor on.
Ran when parked five years ago. Extensive tuneup should be all it needs. I’ve never had an interest in V8 swapped cars, it’s 12 or nothing for me.
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Very little actual modelling recently, but I just set up a permanent workbench, so hopefully that will improve. There’s a bookcase supporting one end that has the vast majority or my railroad books, good to keep them close at hand.
(https://i.imgur.com/HWXXaol.jpg)
I also acquired one of my two dream cars, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-S in British Racing Green. Which probably means I won’t get much modelling done for a while. Impossible to say no at $100.
(https://i.imgur.com/a9f0rSz.jpg)
Nice work area and an awesome car. I love those Jags! $100 and garaged!? WOW - how did you manage that? Do I see another, more recent Jag in the background?
While it is unlikely that I'll own a 1:1 Jag like that, I do have a nice Hasegawa version as a 1:24 scale kit. I'll build it some day . . .
(https://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/ekmps/shops/530456/images/hasegawa-1-24-jaguar-xj-s-v12-20321-94982-p.jpg)
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Very little actual modelling recently, but ...
I also acquired one of my two dream cars, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-S in British Racing Green. Which probably means I won’t get much modelling done for a while. Impossible to say no at $100.
With five years of dust:
(https://i.imgur.com/N8oIfNm.jpg)
And letting the rain wash it all away
(https://i.imgur.com/a9f0rSz.jpg)
OMG, a HUNDRED Dollars??,🙀🙀🙀
Nice. Nice going....
What’s your other dream car?
Otto
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Added the finishing touches to my PRR Lis "Lollipop":
Pilot air tank, smokebox platform step with grabs, GHQ pewter pilot and Unimate coupler.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/2711-280320160602.jpeg)
John, that’s a great model, truly a nice job considering what you started with. She’ll look great!
But what with the Unimate....a 905 would look so much better, and work, too... in my HUMBLE opinion....
Otto
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Trim work is done on the station for now. There is supposed to be a cove molding where the roof meets the building but adding that throws off the proportion of the band around the top. I may just get frustrated enough to raise the roof .030" so I can add the molding, then again, I may not. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to see any of the trim under the eaves when it is on the layout anyhow.
Edit - Forgot to add this shot. The roof is removable so I can eventually add interior and lighting. My problem is finding an actual picture or floor plan of the building when it was a station. The station is currently being used as a retail store for Joggers/Runners and has been completely remodeled inside.
Tony:
Really like the "look". Reminds me of some of the older Robert Hundman builds a few decades ago.
Kind regards,
Bill
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John, that’s a great model, truly a nice job considering what you started with. She’ll look great!
But what with the Unimate....a 905 would look so much better, and work, too... in my HUMBLE opinion....
Otto
My thought's exactly! But my opinion involves the pilot truck wheels. With all the super-detailing John did, that wheel looks a bit out of place. Kind of like a guy dressed in a jeans and T-shirt at a formal ball. :D
It would probably be easy swap for one of the wheels which have better looking profile (not just a flat slab). Amazing what close-up photography reveals about a model.
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I also acquired one of my two dream cars, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-S in British Racing Green.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar ownership. If the engine is good don't even think about replacing it. Properly looked after thy are one of the smoothest engines on the road. The only concern with the 5.3L in the XJ-S as opposed to the XJ sedans is not to let it overheat. I always pop the bonnet after a run to let it cool off.
I would get rid of the chrome tings over the wheel arches though; not original. Enjoy!
Tim
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I started trying to reassemble my layout since I moved recently. Even though I designed it in sections and kept key trackwork away from the joints, the legs didn't want to attach to the sections as securely as I'd have liked. And even if they had, the current design didn't seem like it would survive another move (since I'm still in an apartment situation.) So I started to build corner pockets for the legs to go in. One section down, 4 more to go. At least it gave me an excuse to go buy a circular saw. I'm sure the new neighbors just love me...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/17-290320214113.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=16112)
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Finally got my SP 12.5K tankcars completed, reassembled and ready for primer. I also completed adding side and roof braces to my fleet of converted 40' hogfuel (woodchip) cars and these are also ready for the paint shop.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/4328-290320221317.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=16114)
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Not a modeling project per se but one which I finally finished in my office/train room that has allowed me to finally shelve my library after having it in piles all over the place. Now to inventory and start downsizing the N Scale collection to more closely correspond to any layout I am likely to build...
Charlie Vlk
[attachimg=1]
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Got off my couch and got something started. I went right for the jugular: decaling number boards. Thank goodness for magnifiers. I might actually get this project done seeing how "every day is like sunday"
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/2674-300320081459.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=16120)
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OMG, a HUNDRED Dollars??,🙀🙀🙀
Nice. Nice going....
What’s your other dream car?
Otto
A 1920s Bentley. Need to add several more zeros to my bank account before I can consider on of those.
Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar ownership. If the engine is good don't even think about replacing it. Properly looked after thy are one of the smoothest engines on the road. The only concern with the 5.3L in the XJ-S as opposed to the XJ sedans is not to let it overheat. I always pop the bonnet after a run to let it cool off.
I would get rid of the chrome tings over the wheel arches though; not original. Enjoy!
Tim
It needs a good tuneup and then I’ll go through the cooling system with a fine toothed comb, replace all the hoses, thermostats, et cetera.
Nice work area and an awesome car. I love those Jags! $100 and garaged!? WOW - how did you manage that? Do I see another, more recent Jag in the background?
While it is unlikely that I'll own a 1:1 Jag like that, I do have a nice Hasegawa version as a 1:24 scale kit. I'll build it some day . . .
(https://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/ekmps/shops/530456/images/hasegawa-1-24-jaguar-xj-s-v12-20321-94982-p.jpg)
I built that kit, but it was the TWR race car version.
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So I WAS going to try and finish laying track on the coal country layout during the a$$hat Happy Hour.
But I am so tired of f***ing with switches.
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-28-12.49.45.jpg)
So I said F'it: JFRTM.
I pulled out all my TTRAK modules (in various states of completion as they are) and put a layout together.
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-28-15.31.39.jpg)
Given the state of it I figured making it Penn Central night would be appropriate.
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-28-16.52.49.jpg)
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-28-16.52.53.jpg)
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-28-16.56.10.jpg)
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-28-16.56.21.jpg)
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-29-14.33.55.jpg)
(http://conrail1285.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/2020-03-29-14.34.11.jpg)
But then a manhattan, a beer and a shot might've put a halt on switching hazmat... :D
It was great seeing you guys and I look forward to doing it weekly.
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John, that’s a great model, truly a nice job considering what you started with. She’ll look great!
But what with the Unimate....a 905 would look so much better, and work, too... in my HUMBLE opinion....
Otto
@Cajonpassfan & @peteski ,
Fresh out of 905's. I will be able to swap one in later IF the pilot wheels don't hit the 905's draft box. I started with a 1015 box which SEVERELY limited the pilot truck's travel. Trimmed off the sides of the 1015 box and left the pivot post. Drilled out the Unimate to 2mm at the rear hole shaved the post flush to the Unimate plane to limit coupler drop, and trapped it with a nylon 00-90 pan head screw.
Something I found in this is that the underside of the pilot extension on the front of the Minitrix shell is that if you shave away the pilot mount flush to the bottom, is the surface is perfect mounting height for a 1015. But you have to make a wedge because the surface angles up in the side view.
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@Ed Kapuscinski that PC passenger geep is sweet! Hopefully beer + JFRT took the edge off switch wiring...
Frank
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@Ed Kapuscinski that PC passenger geep is sweet! Hopefully beer + JFRT took the edge off switch wiring...
Frank
I wish I could take ANY credit for it, but she's a Dr. Hotballz refugee.
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I wish I could take ANY credit for it, but she's a Dr. Hotballz refugee.
Back when my airbrush was still working, LOL.
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@Cajonpassfan & @peteski ,
Fresh out of 905's. I will be able to swap one in later IF the pilot wheels don't hit the 905's draft box. I started with a 1015 box which SEVERELY limited the pilot truck's travel. Trimmed off the sides of the 1015 box and left the pivot post. Drilled out the Unimate to 2mm at the rear hole shaved the post flush to the Unimate plane to limit coupler drop, and trapped it with a nylon 00-90 pan head screw.
Something I found in this is that the underside of the pilot extension on the front of the Minitrix shell is that if you shave away the pilot mount flush to the bottom, is the surface is perfect mounting height for a 1015. But you have to make a wedge because the surface angles up in the side view.
John,
my question was also about the flat-face, wide-tread, deep-flange pilot wheels. Seems like swapping it for one of the nicer looking wheelsets (like FVM or NWSL) would make dramatic visual difference. Yes, you would have to grind down the pointy axles, but that is easy.
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Finally got my SP 12.5K tankcars completed, reassembled and ready for primer. I also completed adding side and roof braces to my fleet of converted 40' hogfuel (woodchip) cars and these are also ready for the paint shop.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/16/4328-290320221317.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=16114)
Hey Peter,
Could you elaborate on the SP 12.K tank cars?
Thanks!!
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Hey Peter,
Could you elaborate on the SP 12.K tank cars?
Thanks!!
I had originally planned to lengthen MT tankcars with slices taken from donor bodies, but after one test case, it was apparent that I'd wouldn't be able to get a good job with all those cuts. A Tony Thompson blog post mentioned that Athearn's triple dome tankcar was based on the SP's just by adding a couple domes to it. This car, like a lot of the triple dome models is way too big and domes are too short . There also was a thread on here on retro models mentioning that a lot of the early N models were just downscaled from the available HO ones.
I put two and two together from that and realized that the solution was literally under my nose as I had purchased a old Bachmann at a show just for the MT trucks it had. Measuring the car, it had the right tank and dome diameter and was within a foot or so of the total length. The dome was too short but the blog post had the way to fix that. I purchased few cheapies on Ebay and went to work.
I sliced off the safety values on each dome top as the SP's only have two in a different location and I saved the best ones, then I sliced off the dome tops, again saving the ones with the straightest cuts . The center domes were sanded flat on top for the dome extensions.I cut the extra domes off as close to the tank without damaging it, and the best ones were saved and sanded as these would be the center dome extensions. I then proceeded to do some significant carving and sanding on each body - removing excess rivet lines, the top seam, any outer dome remnants and the manway board on one side and shortened on the other (SP's only have one ladder). I placed multiple layers of tape on the inside of the tanks and use Milliput epoxy putty to fill in the dome holes and sanded down smooth. Some putty was used to finish off each of the domes as well. I am re-using the frames as-is other than the elimination of the screw on body, the original weight (but adding more to NMRA standards), the wire handrails and one of the ladders as those pieces look fine enough. These will be all primed in gray, painted black and will be decaled with MS SP tankcar decals. Not exactly perfect, but good enough and will be significantly different from the MT 10K and IM 8K cars.
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Interesting. Let us see progress as you work on these please, or at least when finished.
Otto K.
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Peter,
Thanks for the detailed outline, appreciated! I've got a few of the Pecos River Brass O-50-12 and 13 class SP tank cars. Some are factory painted/decaled, others are undec. MTL just brought out a 4 pack of "Diesel Fuel" tank cars. These "resemble" the SP O-50-7 class. MTL, for some reason, put -11 class road numbers on them. George Hollwedel did a 3 pack of the same, except he put the correct -7 class road numbers on them. Tichy also makes two decal sets for the tank cars, one in black lettering the other in white lettering. Keep us posted if you would, thanks!
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Ready for paint....
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OMG! Another guy with a Unimat-SL (DB200) from Austria!
I've had mine for over half a century! Still kicking myself for not getting the collet set that fits it. :oops:
Anybody know of a collet set that will fit this model? [need an emoji for "wing and prayer"]
Very little actual modelling recently, but I just set up a permanent workbench, so hopefully that will improve. There’s a bookcase supporting one end that has the vast majority or my railroad books, good to keep them close at hand.
[boring pictur except for Unimat in corner :D]
(https://i.imgur.com/lTQ0S6F.jpg)
I also acquired one of my two dream cars, a 1987 Jaguar XJ-S in British Racing Green. Which probably means I won’t get much modelling done for a while. Impossible to say no at $100.
With five years of dust:
[boring picture of Jag :D]
And letting the rain wash it all away
[another boring picture of Jag :D]
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OMG! Another guy with a Unimat-SL (DB200) from Austria!
Anybody know of a collet set that will fit this model? [need an emoji for "wing and prayer"]
What does the spindle bore have? Many lathes will have a Morse taper or some other standard taper. If so, there are many varieties of collet holders for those standard tapers. ER collets are very popular because of their flexibility of gripping a range of dimensions but they also aren't real good at repeat depth setting if you're running repeat parts set to a stop. That also depends on your tolerance. Then there's 5c collets that are better on repeatable depth control but aren't very forgiving on the material size you're gripping. 5c might also be a little big in a small lathe. BUT... they have available what's called "repair collets" that are machinable to any size you want. I like 5c for this reason. Excellent method for machining a special size for gripping wheels as an example.
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What does the spindle bore have? Many lathes will have a Morse taper or some other standard taper. If so, there are many varieties of collet holders for those standard tapers. ER collets are very popular because of their flexibility of gripping a range of dimensions but they also aren't real good at repeat depth setting if you're running repeat parts set to a stop. That also depends on your tolerance. Then there's 5c collets that are better on repeatable depth control but aren't very forgiving on the material size you're gripping. 5c might also be a little big in a small lathe. BUT... they have available what's called "repair collets" that are machinable to any size you want. I like 5c for this reason. Excellent method for machining a special size for gripping wheels as an example.
The spindle seems to be metric, with 12 mm OD, threaded with 1.0 mm pitch. The bore seems to be straight, not tapered, with 7 mm ID. There once was a set of collets and a holder for this unit, many decades ago.
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The spindle seems to be metric, with 12 mm OD, threaded with 1.0 mm pitch.
Probably not the only one, and probably not the cheapest way to get it, but here's an ER20 collet chuck that should fit that spindle (https://www.rcm-machines.com/en/rcm-production/chuck-er/collet-chuck-er20-with-m12-x-1-inside-thread/rcm12er20)
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Probably not the only one, and probably not the cheapest way to get it, but here's an ER20 collet chuck that should fit that spindle (https://www.rcm-machines.com/en/rcm-production/chuck-er/collet-chuck-er20-with-m12-x-1-inside-thread/rcm12er20)
Thanks! That one is heck of a lot cheaper than this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Unimat-DB-SL-Lathe-E16-Collet-Set-16-Collets-A-Collet-Holder-Ref-1020-1021/133284415769?hash=item1f085ec919:g:KUEAAOSwdndeAze8:sc:USPSPriority!21654!US!-1 that came up on eBay!
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Ready for paint....
@SkipGear....very nicely done. I'm assuming you built this? What road and class of caboose would this be? I'm assuming you're the expert on whatever road's caboose you're building and gonna paint next, but the location of the brake wheel housing caught my eye as not being quite logical. In most cabooses with a newer brakewheel housing, the housing is on the outside of the end platform railing (or part of it), and the connection to the lever that takes the force at right angles to the vertical force that turning the wheel gives, is directly under the brakewheel housing. What you've got on yours wouldn't allow that.
Now, I'm just guessing, but I'd guess that the brake wheel housing should be on the outside of the end railing, and the wheel itself should be on the inside of the end railing...allowing for a correct connection to the hinged lever that is connected to the brake gear underneath the caboose body, and giving the train crew more room on the end platform.
BUT, I could be completely wrong since I'm only really familiar with cabooses that ran/run on the Union Pacific...but, the brakewheel housing just doesn't look mechanically "right" positioned where I see it.
If you're not sure, I thought you might want to double check that before applying paint.
So, is this a kit or scratch-built? In any case, from what I can see, it looks like your soldering is very nicely done. I love building brass models. :)
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
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. . .
So, is this a kit or scratch-built? In any case, from what I can see, it looks like your soldering is very nicely done. I love building brass models. :)
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
He mentioned earlier that it was a TrainCat brass kit. So he likely just followed building instructions included with the kit. I really miss Bob (TrainCat) and all his etched brass kits. Last we've heard from him he was relaxing by flying RC model airplanes.
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OMG! Another guy with a Unimat-SL (DB200) from Austria!
I've had mine for over half a century! Still kicking myself for not getting the collet set that fits it. :oops:
Anybody know of a collet set that will fit this model? [need an emoji for "wing and prayer"]
The collets that were offered with it are E16. They’re really hard to find. ER16 collets will fit in the collet holder, but I have a hell of a time getting them out. Original sets do show up on eBay, if you’re willing to pay $750 or so...
I got mine a few years ago and haven’t used it much. Hopefully that will change soon!
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The link that Parkrrrr posted is a better deal, by far. But, it is in Europe, so not sure how easy it will be to get it with this pandemic.
Still looking for the equivalent in the U.S.
Also trying to decide between ER20, ER16, and ER11. I am thinking that I want to get down to 0.5 mm with the smallest collet. Actually, I would like to get to about half that, but so far 0.5 mm is the smallest I have found for any size ER collet.
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The link that Parkrrrr posted is a better deal, by far. But, it is in Europe, so not sure how easy it will be to get it with this pandemic.
Still looking for the equivalent in the U.S.
Also trying to decide between ER20, ER16, and ER11. I am thinking that I want to get down to 0.5 mm with the smallest collet. Actually, I would like to get to about half that, but so far 0.5 mm is the smallest I have found for any size ER collet.
Yeah, I did some more looking around, too, and haven't found anything in the US with a female thread. There are some with male threads, but I think they might be M12x1.75, so you'd need to make an adapter to attach them. But, of course, the further you get from the headstock bearings with adapters and whatnot the less stability you're gonna have, and stability is kind of a big deal if you're working with 0.5mm materials.
Another option, if you or your local machine shop can manage the concentricity you need, might be to get an inexpensive ER11 or ER16 adapter made for those cheap 10mm CNC router spindles (https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Adapter-Collet-Milling-Machine/dp/B07VD5QYNR/), drill it out, and tap or single-point thread to M12x1.
Another alternative: get your machine shop to make a collar with a 16mm OD and an M12x1 internal thread, screw the collar onto your spindle, then attach the 16mm version of that CNC router adapter on the outside of the collar. Concentricity should be easy on that since they don't have to recenter the workpiece for any of those operations, though you'll likely get some runout due to the forces on the setscrews.
A final alternative: get some M12x1 (https://www.mcmaster.com/91415a150) nuts, lock a couple of them on your spindle, turn them down to 16mm, and do as above, but be careful not to lock them on the spindle so tightly that you can't remove them once all of their flats are gone. (This assumes that you can get a tool in the proper position to do that turning. I suppose you could probably abuse a boring bar for that purpose, if you can't get the carriage close enough.)
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Trim work is done on the station for now. There is supposed to be a cove molding where the roof meets the building but adding that throws off the proportion of the band around the top. I may just get frustrated enough to raise the roof .030" so I can add the molding, then again, I may not. I'm pretty sure you won't be able to see any of the trim under the eaves when it is on the layout anyhow.
Edit - Forgot to add this shot. The roof is removable so I can eventually add interior and lighting. My problem is finding an actual picture or floor plan of the building when it was a station. The station is currently being used as a retail store for Joggers/Runners and has been completely remodeled inside.
Tony, great looking station. What product did you use for the tile roof?
(Attachment Link)
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@SkipGear....very nicely done. I'm assuming you built this? What road and class of caboose would this be? I'm assuming you're the expert on whatever road's caboose you're building and gonna paint next, but the location of the brake wheel housing caught my eye as not being quite logical. In most cabooses with a newer brakewheel housing, the housing is on the outside of the end platform railing (or part of it), and the connection to the lever that takes the force at right angles to the vertical force that turning the wheel gives, is directly under the brakewheel housing. What you've got on yours wouldn't allow that.
Now, I'm just guessing, but I'd guess that the brake wheel housing should be on the outside of the end railing, and the wheel itself should be on the inside of the end railing...allowing for a correct connection to the hinged lever that is connected to the brake gear underneath the caboose body, and giving the train crew more room on the end platform.
BUT, I could be completely wrong since I'm only really familiar with cabooses that ran/run on the Union Pacific...but, the brakewheel housing just doesn't look mechanically "right" positioned where I see it.
If you're not sure, I thought you might want to double check that before applying paint.
So, is this a kit or scratch-built? In any case, from what I can see, it looks like your soldering is very nicely done. I love building brass models. :)
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore
Sorry it took so long to reply. got distracted with outside projects the last week or so.
The caboose is a NYC bay window and the brake wheel assembly/end rails in the kit did not match the pictures in the color guide. I did improve on the Traincat design a bit but for the most part, it as the kit was intended. Good catch on the brake stand though, I was so worried about dealing with the incorrectly made handrails that I got them on with the offset in instead of out. Have to get the iron out and fix that. I just picked up the paint over the weekend to shoot it.
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The roof material is from JTT/MRC. It is technically 1/100 scale but it is the best looking thing I have found to date except the perfect match from Vollmer. The problem with the Vollmer sheets were #1, they were $45 for 5 6x6 sheets, and #2, they were molded which made them look much better but the plastic was at least 2mm thick and very difficult to cut. The thickness also caused problems trying to get tight corners to fit and is the original reason I quit on the model a while ago.
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Thanks!