TheRailwire
General Discussion => Weathering, Detailing, and Scratchbuilding => Topic started by: nuno81291 on December 20, 2018, 09:19:25 AM
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Hey gang,
With my booth shaping up it is time to gift myself an airbrush rig. I like the idea of dual action ABs and am looking at the Badger Patriot 105 with a Master tc40t compressor https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1)
Or an all in one kit like this Paasche offering:
https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-TG-300R-Gravity-Compressor-x/dp/B01LN0SXA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1545314811&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=paasche+airbrush+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51OntEFTNsL&ref=plSrch (https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-Airbrush-TG-300R-Gravity-Compressor-x/dp/B01LN0SXA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1545314811&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=paasche+airbrush+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51OntEFTNsL&ref=plSrch)
For a little background, I have been using rattlecans my entire life and am not afraid of the learning curve or cleaning requirements of an AB. That said, it seems some dual action brushes clean easier than others. I have no preference of acrylics vs solvent paints and intend to try both. My purpose would be general kit painting, and the ability to do some finer weathering style applications, which makes dual action look particularly attractive. I like the idea of gravity fed as well for seeming simplicity. I have read a lot of mixed reviews of nearly every major brands dual action gravity fed brushes which has kind of put me on the fence. I would say my budget ideally is around 300 for brush, compressor and cleaning kit. As far as the compressors go, it looks like a tank compressor is preferred, with a moisture trap. It looks like the TCP/master offering is generally the same thing a lot of companies offer rebranded. Not sure if a twin piston is a good idea or not for the extra $$$. In terms of frequency of use... well I have 2 layouts of structures and other modeling projects that all need paint and clear coats so I anticipate this to be used quite frequently, atleast weekly as I am sort of in paint limbo with an ever growing backlog of projects awaiting paint.
Any advice is much appreciated. Unfortunately it seems my local craft/artist stores don’t seem to stock what I’m interested in or I would like to pick one up in person. FWIW I did a search here before this post and it left me wanting more info and perhaps any updated info as it seems the quality of parts seems to change over time.
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I went through the same decision process a few years ago. I had been avoiding airbrushing altogether for decades, after ruining a few models with that cheap entry Badger brush powered by canned air. There are far more experienced heads around here, but here's my 2¢:
Compressor - a cheap single-piston with tank and regulator/trap is fine. Air is air, as long as there is enough and it's controlled. These seem to be going for $60 on eBay, with or without a "kit" (I'd toss the airbrush). The little desktop "box" units are diaphragm pumps and are noisy, have no tank, and depend on the hose to play the role of "tank" in smoothing the air stream. Avoid those.
That leaves a hunk of budget for a really good gravity brush. Paasche is OK, but be thinking Grex, Iwata and Harder & Steenbeck. I have an H&S Colani which I love, after a detour with a mid-grade siphon Paasche that was less than satisfying. The Colani is an outlier in the H&S line (parts and support are more difficult than other H&S brushes), so I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but not only does it do the job very nicely, it is a breeze to thoroughly clean. I suspect other gravity brushes are similar. I use all types of hobby paints in it, and have three different tip combos depending on the work at hand.
There are Grex and Iwata enthusiasts on TRW, so search the forum for those brand names and I'm certain the previous discussion(s) will be useful to you.
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Considering I've also never owned an airbrush, a few questions, if I may:
Why would you go for gravity feed over siphon?
What PSI should you aim for as a top end (with the idea that you can regulate down from there as needed)?
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Gravity in an airbrush is much more forgiving of viscosity. It also means less to clean up, less paint waste, and a couple of drops in the cup for a small, quick spritz works versus pouring enough paint into the siphon jar to reach the pickup tube.
Air pressure is dependent on medium. There are a zillion opinions, most successful, but generally you're looking in the 20-40 psi range.
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To echo c855b; it appears gravity brushes are a bit easier to maintain but that could be my noob misunderstanding. I would say also because I’m old school and the idea of gravity working for versus against just bodes well with me.
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I used a single action Paasche for years, moved to a dual action Paasche and now gone to a Nozomi Gravity feed dual action and would not go back. I have done a lot of airbrushing over the past 40 years and the Nozomi wins hands down. It is made of aluminum, is light and very easy to clean and much easier than a Paasche.
Using a gravity feed reduces the amount of wasted paint and you can mix in the bowl to the consistency you want.
I also use a dual compressor with an air tank, water trap and dual gauges so you can regulate tank pressure along with output air pressure.
a really nice combo that works for me. I have also added quick release fitting to all my air brushes and hose so I can swap easily without needing to find a small spanner to undo the air line. They are just a small version of what an auto shop uses.
I purchased mine from Runway13 based in Canberra here in Australia so might be difficult to find.
Happy shopping.
Rod.
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For more than 30 years now I have been using Badger 200 siphon-fed airbrush. I also have a paint cup attachment, but it basically sits in the storage box, unused.
This is a single action internal-mix unit and I basically use it as a miniature spray gun (wich much, much better control than spray cans). Plus I can use any paint and any color in it (not limited to spray can selection). Hey, I even decant spray cans and airbrush the paint because airbrush is so much easier to control (especially when painting very small items). I use air pressures from about 10-30 psi (I usually stick with lower range of those pressures).
Since I use it as a mini spray-gun, I much prefer the 1oz glass jar for the paint. It holds the paint inside, even if I tilt the airbrush while painting, When I tried to use the cup, I ended up spilling paint everywhere. I also often paint larger items (like 1:12 scale model automobile kits) and a paint cup would not hold enough paint to finish painting the car body. So for me, what I have works prefect. I also find cleaning the glass jar much easier than trying to clean out the cup, but again, it is my personal preference. You might remember my quick-and-painless airbrush cleaning thread https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=41067.msg511017#msg511017 (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=41067.msg511017#msg511017) .
However I can see how a gravity-fed dual-action airbrush with a paint cup would be a good choice for tasks such as weathering. You only need to put few drops of paint in it. Perfect when you are weathering a model when not a lot of paint is needed.
I see everybody mentioning brands other than Badger. What's wrong with Badger airbrushes, or what makes the other brands that much better?
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Well I sprung for an Iwata eclipse gravity feed. It is hard as a first timer to imagine the pros and cons of each style, if I find I need another type for a different application I will compliment the Iwata with it. Time to order a compressor. :trollface:
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If I had that little cup on top, imagine I would spill more than spray.
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The little cup does have a lid :trollface: I am thinking of getting a single action siphon at a cheaper price point, just to get a feel for it. I definitely like the idea of quick connects, a familiar concept from my work compressors and air tools. Now to order some more paraphernalia in preparation for the learning curve. The work I see experienced hobbyists accomplish with the AB was certainly the impetus for this. Thanks everyone for the comments.
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Just for general reference: Scale Model Workshop is a great channel for all kinds of great tools and tips.
He has a whole playlist for airbrushes: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHO9r1wkd5PegL6O0BTrk3XEqH4j6tTDy
Here's the first one, the basics:
Top quality content. If you ever need some background audio, Scale Model Workshop is a great one to fill the silence and learn a few things too!
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Been on the hunt for some quality content on all things air brush and modeling related air brushing; thanks for the suggestion!
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Reading and watching do not compare to DOING. Get your stuff, hook it up and spray stuff. Any stuff, boxes, spoons, metal, brass, taped off areas, everything.
Put different paints in the gun, DO NOT experiment with cleaning solvents other than what that paint recommends.
Try different viscosity paints, buy all the needle sizes available, try each paint with different pressures.
I am very new to airbrushing (painted maybe 1-20 objects so far in two years with reasonable results), after my wife gifted me a Badger Patriot siphon.
With my large, clumsy fingers, cleaning it is my nemesis. Wish someone made a 3D printed THROWAWAY Airbrush (wait, hmmm...) I hate cleaning it that much.
Everything above is what I WISHED I would have done myself.
I plumbed my garage compressor (after its water trap) into the basement, ran a long line to my small water trap/pressure regulator, and used the short line that comes with the brush from there up to the AB, all with quick connects.
I have not tried any weathering at all with an AB yet, but the top mount, centered cup/gravity feed makes sense, especially for a lefty- I have to hold the airbrush in an awkward position with the siphon cup on the left side of the brush.
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With my large, clumsy fingers, cleaning it is my nemesis. Wish someone made a 3D printed THROWAWAY Airbrush (wait, hmmm...) I hate cleaning it that much.
If you are airbrushing stinky paints (not water-based acrylics), then cleaning is a breeze. Really! Remember the cleaning method I use I described in the post I liked to in my earlier post here. It really doesn't have to be a dreaded chore. Really!
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Even though you made a choice I’ll go contrarian and lobby for the dual action internal mix Aztec for Testors. It’s as good as any of the others, I find it easy to clean, it has nozzle heads in about a dozen needle sizes and it take both a cup and a shoving in the glass bottle.
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If you are airbrushing stinky paints (not water-based acrylics), then cleaning is a breeze. Really! Remember the cleaning method I use I described in the post I liked to in my earlier post here. It really doesn't have to be a dreaded chore. Really!
It's more of an "I'm finally done, but now I have to clean the @)@*^*($_(^ing thing!"
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It's more of an "I'm finally done, but now I have to clean the @)@*^*($_(^ing thing!"
Um, but it is is more like washing your hands after handling lead than "gosh, I now have to do a lengthy and painful cleaning of this fu**ing airbrush". I guess I just don't understand why some people consider it a dreaded chore.
I guess I look at things differently. When I'm done airbrushing i don't think that "I'm finally done airbrushing, and here comes the dreaded cleaning. With me it is "I finished airbrushing, and the model looks awesome - now I just have to spend another minute cleaning the airbrush before putting it away". Be more positive man! :D
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Um, but it is is more like washing your hands after handling lead than "gosh, I now have to do a lengthy and painful cleaning of this fu**ing airbrush". I guess I just don't understand why some people consider it a dreaded chore.
I guess I look at things differently. When I'm done airbrushing i don't think that "I'm finally done airbrushing, and here comes the dreaded cleaning. With me it is "I finished airbrushing, and the model looks awesome - now I just have to spend another minute cleaning the airbrush before putting it away". Be more positive man! :D
Yeah, lol, I usually don't achieve this part "and the model looks awesome",. :facepalm: :scared:
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Most of the time I just spray solvent though it and only clean a few times a year.
Air brush is hanging right now with ink/alcohol in it. Been in there a while, still sprays :P
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Color me dense Pete but I don’t see a link to a cleaning post from you?
As far as having to clean after painting; if it means I can blame problems more on operator error than say a clogged spray bomb valve then I am happy. Nothing as infuriating as brand new, well shaken and stored spray bombs that sputter or are unusable. Speaking of spraying stinky paints; what sort of thinner would you recommend with say decanted rustoleum 2x paints? I also use their camo line quite a bit. Would like to go through some of these before I order any fancy Vallejo or tamiya paints.
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Color me dense Pete but I don’t see a link to a cleaning post from you?
It's in his reply #6 - third paragraph, last sentence.
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Thanks, viewing TRW on a phone I could not see the underlined link. :facepalm: :scared:
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Um, but it is is more like washing your hands after handling lead...
Never bothered to do that. (Hmmm... might explain some things...)
Yeah, lol, I usually don't achieve this part "and the model looks awesome",. :facepalm: :scared:
This.
I see everybody mentioning brands other than Badger. What's wrong with Badger airbrushes, or what makes the other brands that much better?
Never had good luck with Badgers. They seemed way too fussy, and never produced consistent (or sometimes any) results. I own an Iwata, FWIW.
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Never bothered to do that. (Hmmm... might explain some things...)
This.
U Dissin' me DKS? :D :D :D :trollface: :trollface: :facepalm:
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Color me dense Pete but I don’t see a link to a cleaning post from you?
As far as having to clean after painting; if it means I can blame problems more on operator error than say a clogged spray bomb valve then I am happy. Nothing as infuriating as brand new, well shaken and stored spray bombs that sputter or are unusable. Speaking of spraying stinky paints; what sort of thinner would you recommend with say decanted rustoleum 2x paints? I also use their camo line quite a bit. Would like to go through some of these before I order any fancy Vallejo or tamiya paints.
I edited my post to make the link more obvious (but uglier looking). I learned (from DKS' posts) how to "beautify" links by blending them into the text of my post, but it looks like that is not a good idea when more and more people are using their smart phones (with tiny screens and microscopic text) to read the forum.
Thinners for organic-solvent (stinky) paints? For decanted paints standard lacquer thinner should work well. But not all hardware-store lacquer thinners are created equal. The ingredients might vary between different brands. While most lacquer thinners are "hot" enough to affect polystyrene of ABS if applied directly to the plastic, if mixed with paint and airbrushed in light coats, they are usually safe. Once the plastic is coated with couple of thin paint coats, a heavire coat will also be safe to apply. Personally I have been using SCL brand of thinner. Hardware stores used to carry tha brand, but now I have to get is special ordered (at a Try Value hardware store). But a gallon lasts me a long time. Also, keep in mind that sometimes even the same brand of thinner changes their formula, but in today's environmentally-friendly world that usually means that the new formula is less "hot".
Never bothered to do that (wash hands after handlign lead). (Hmmm... might explain some things...)
LOL. That was just a silly example. What I was trying to say is that airbrush cleaning (not a full reconditioning) should just be a part of the routine, not a dreaded chore. When we use paint brushes, we clean them after use. We usually don't dread doing that. It is the same with an airbrush - cleaning it is simply the last step in the airbrushing process.
Yeah, lol, I usually don't achieve this part "and the model looks awesome",. :facepalm: :scared:
This.
Oh, alright - I don't say that after every paintbrush job either - again just trying to put a positive spin on the entire airbrushing experience. After all, this is a hobby which we (I hope) do for fun, and to relax. :D :trollface: I'll say it again: cleaning the airbrush between colors and even between projects should not be a dreaded chore. The benefits airbrush provides over spray paints should outweigh the need to do a quick "rinse" after use.
Never had good luck with Badgers. They seemed way too fussy, and never produced consistent (or sometimes any) results. I own an Iwata, FWIW.
Fussy? Interesting. I don't find my model 200 fussy at all. But it is a simple single action airbrush I use as a spray-gun. I did buy a dual action Badger at a Michael's sale few years ago, but since I don't weather, I haven't even tried it yet. I have used dual-action Badgers at friend's workshops and I didn't find those fussy either. But again, it was while using them as spray-guns, not for weathering which requires precision control of the spray pattern.
Also, from what I see, it seems to me that all the different brands of metal airbrushes have very similar construction, so I'm not sure why one is better than other. "Fussy" seems bit nebulous.
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U Dissin' me DKS? :D :D :D :trollface: :trollface: :facepalm:
Oh, dear. Should have said, "Me, too!"
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I'll say it again: cleaning the airbrush between colors and even between projects should not be a dreaded chore. The benefits airbrush provides over spray paints should outweigh the need to do a quick "rinse" after use.
Well, it's kinda like doing laundry. I like wearing clothes, but...
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Well, it's kinda like doing laundry. I like wearing clothes, but...
"...but I'd rather walk around naked."
And speaking of which, I agree with the Pole.
Acrylics dry fast and gunk up my scene. Stinky paint doesn't dry as fast and cleaning is easier because of it!
I realize "Polak" is likely the correct term, but I wasn't gonna let that get in the way of a joke.
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I spray acrylics almost all the time nowadays as solvent paints are nasty. I have a 4 litre plastic bucket half full of clean water beside me when spraying and as soon as I am finished I empty any paint I want to save and then chuck the airbrush in the water and just keep pulling the trigger until it flows clean. I then spray Iso through it wipe out the cup and the job is done.
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I spray acrylics almost all the time nowadays as solvent paints are nasty. I have a 4 litre plastic bucket half full of clean water beside me when spraying and as soon as I am finished I empty any paint I want to save and then chuck the airbrush in the water and just keep pulling the trigger until it flows clean. I then spray Iso through it wipe out the cup and the job is done.
Most of my painting is indeed with acrylics, but I nearly always, run into the problem with them drying out the brush. It's always inconvenient when it happens. I'll paint a shell, put it down for a minute. Then go back a few minutes later and my output is decreased because something is drying actively somewhere. The answer is to modify my technique to work in smaller batches, but that's the fundamental difference between the different paints.
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I have the same issue as chicken45. Drives me nuts
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Most of my painting is indeed with acrylics, but I nearly always, run into the problem with them drying out the brush. It's always inconvenient when it happens. I'll paint a shell, put it down for a minute. Then go back a few minutes later and my output is decreased because something is drying actively somewhere. The answer is to modify my technique to work in smaller batches, but that's the fundamental difference between the different paints.
Yep smaller batches, slightly thinner paint(maybe) can help.
And yes you do have to be on your toes to spray acrylics.
Rod.
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Yep smaller batches, slightly thinner paint(maybe) can help.
And yes you do have to be on your toes to spray acrylics.
Rod.
That's exactly why I don't airbrush them - not worth the extra pain(t). :D Besides, I enjoy the smell of those stinky paints (whatever is not sucked out by the exhaust fan).
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So today I’m going to test my new booth. Have a backlog of projects and excited to see how effective or ineffective the booth will be. Also a test for the AB and I decided to use some leftover floquil colors and to decant some of the rustoleum spray cans I’ve been primarily using in my modeling. I have seen great info for how to decant, but wonder whether I should decant more than I think I need for a project at a time? Also how one would go about storing any left over decanted paint? I have a bunch of small mason jars and could use pipettes to use in the AB. It sounds like due to the aerosol that storing decanted paints may not be a great idea... :?
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I have been airbrushing for the last 30 years. Have gotten (I think) pretty competent with Model master and Floquil paints. Every time I go to my hobby shop though, there are less and less model master enamels available. So in the last few months, I’ve started changing to acrylics, and I think I can say unequivocally that they suck in an airbrush. They dry in the brush, they are much more sensitive to mix proportionally with thinner, they don’t cover as well, and they require a primer and a clearcoat for any sort of durability. It has become a frustrating exercise every time I use the brush now...
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I have been airbrushing for the last 30 years. Have gotten (I think) pretty competent with Model master and Floquil paints. Every time I go to my hobby shop though, there are less and less model master enamels available. So in the last few months, I’ve started changing to acrylics, and I think I can say unequivocally that they suck in an airbrush. They dry in the brush, they are much more sensitive to mix proportionally with thinner, they don’t cover as well, and they require a primer and a clearcoat for any sort of durability. It has become a frustrating exercise every time I use the brush now...
There are still non-water-based hobby paints out there. Tru-Color, Scalecoat, and Humbrol are few of such paints.
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I have the same issue as chicken45. Drives me nuts
Dude, be careful where you admit stuff like that. :) 8)
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Well I tested the Iwata brush finally... why did I wait so long to get this. I am totally blown away. Tried a few plastic spoons and paper towels and eventually brought a part from the partsbin to paint. Totally blown away by the control offered by this brush. Knocking myself for not investing sooner.
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/8/3762-311218222925.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=8561)
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Yeah, the rattle-can users have no idea what they are missing, just by using the "airbrush is a pain to clean" excuse. :) The difference you have in controlling the spray over the rattle can is huge.
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I might have missed it earlier in the thread, but which Iwata model did you get? I’m thinking of switching to a Toploader after 30 years of siphon just because I’m having so much difficulty getting the acrylics to spray the way I want them to. Congratulations on making the switch to airbrushing, I think you’ll notice a massive difference in the quality and enjoyment of your modeling!
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The model is the eclipse hp-cs. My first tear down/cleaning was not a chore and relatively simple procedure. Like a dope I first just added paint thinner, which didn’t seem to do the trick. I then put in laquer thinner and that took care of the remaining paint. Impressed by how robust the unit seems. Going to play around with the enamel paints I have before I try (if I try) any acrylics. Anyone who says they can’t afford it may be fair; sitting at about 140 on the AB, 120 on the compressor, about 200 on the booth materials. Understandable it is easier to go pick up a 5$ rattle can and get to it but it is a world of difference. And not as hard as I thought it would be. Guess the time in research is paying off in that regard. Thanks for all the great advice folks.
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... I’m having so much difficulty getting the acrylics to spray the way I want them to.
https://www.testors.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/Testors/ebook/MRH-Acrylic-painting-guide-post-Floquil-Portrait.ashx (https://www.testors.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/Testors/ebook/MRH-Acrylic-painting-guide-post-Floquil-Portrait.ashx)
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The model is the eclipse hp-cs. My first tear down/cleaning was not a chore and relatively simple procedure. Like a dope I first just added paint thinner, which didn’t seem to do the trick. I then put in laquer thinner and that took care of the remaining paint. Impressed by how robust the unit seems. Going to play around with the enamel paints I have before I try (if I try) any acrylics. Anyone who says they can’t afford it may be fair; sitting at about 140 on the AB, 120 on the compressor, about 200 on the booth materials. Understandable it is easier to go pick up a 5$ rattle can and get to it but it is a world of difference. And not as hard as I thought it would be. Guess the time in research is paying off in that regard. Thanks for all the great advice folks.
Well done enjoy a new world of model painting. If you are into military modeling wait till you start camo effects, these type of airbrushes are great to use.
Rod.
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My 2 gallon oil less compressor has been running kind of slow and taking forever to fill. Took it apart and shot oil down the cylinder and now it is working like new again. A pain they don't include some sort of port to oil it.
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My 2 gallon oil less compressor has been running kind of slow and taking forever to fill. Took it apart and shot oil down the cylinder and now it is working like new again. A pain they don't include some sort of port to oil it.
I thought that oil less piston-type compressors used a plastic (Teflon?) sealing ring around the piston which needs no lubrication. I wonder if the ring is simply worn down? Oiling an oil less compressor sort of defeats the reason they are called oil less. Do you have an oil trap installed in your air line? You might need it now.
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I thought that oil less piston-type compressors used a plastic (Teflon?) sealing ring around the piston which needs no lubrication. I wonder if the ring is simply worn down? Oiling an oil less compressor sort of defeats the reason they are called oil less. Do you have an oil trap installed in your air line? You might need it now.
It had a ring of something around the piston, but where would I get a new one?
I only put a few drops in there.
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It had a ring of something around the piston, but where would I get a new one?
I only put a few drops in there.
See if you can find the hard-copy (or online copy) of your compressor's user's manual. Usually there is a parts diagram and info on how to order spare parts. Or maybe an online service manual?
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You know it started bogging down again today. Think I just need a new one. This little HDX pancake compressor was only $25 bucks at HD. Funny yesterday I was looking at one for $44 at Harbor freight and when I looked at it today it was $56... Grrrr.
Been using it to blow off 3D parts.
Oops it was at Menards for $44:
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/air-compressors/tool-shop-reg-2-gallon-portable-electric-hot-dog-air-compressor/2071525/p-1444423542966-c-12910.htm?tid=5747452541450949225&ipos=2
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Dude, be careful where you admit stuff like that. :) 8)
LOL I was ready to respond with:
"So you haven't found a way to block @Ed Kapuscinski from sending you tasteful nudes?"
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Some fun with the airbrush yielded this mess. Had some splatter issues that I think were either not thinned enough paint and maybe too low psi. Glad I shot at a test subject and not an actual model for those...
(https://www.therailwire.net/forum/gallery/8/3762-030119135939.jpeg) (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=8611)
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Some fun with the airbrush yielded this mess. Had some splatter issues that I think were either not thinned enough paint and maybe too low psi. Glad I shot at a test subject and not an actual model for those...
Mess? I dunno. That looks like an awfully good representation of half of the pick'em-up trucks in our town. :D
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Plastic spoons (on smaller scale) or plastic soft drink bottles (when something larger is needed) make excellent "test canvas" for trying new paint formulas and new painting techniques.
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Thanks! I am new to the salt chipping technique and wanted to try a real beater or very ”well loved” truck. And I can thank Peteski every time my recycling guy wonders why my plastic bottles have strange paint jobs. :facepalm: good tip.
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In the photos you post I see examples of more than model RR items. If you are into models of automobiles or trucks, I recommend that you join the http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/ (http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/) . It is a very nice and active forum for all sorts of automotive models. They also have section for other models (SciFi, boats, bikes, or any other type of a models).
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If you want rust and chipped paint take a look at the vast range of Vallejo Products.
Here is a water tank I am going to plant on my new HOn3 layout.
It got the works, my own blend of rust colour first, Vallejo rust powders second, Dullcote then Vallejo chipping medium and final colour (my blend).
Chipping is easy, just add water and chip away until you have gone as far as you want.
Then Dullcote again to finish.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
It a bit of work but the results are outstanding.
Rod.
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Thanks for the link Pete; some incredible modeling on that site.
And thanks for the Vallejo plug Rod; have heard nothing but good things of their products. Will hopefully get around to trying some of their products. Hobby budget currently depleted unfortunately. Have you tried any of their paints?
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Make your own truck:
https://www.facebook.com/polposky/videos/vb.1063785937/10214859864624514/?type=3
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Make your own truck:
https://www.facebook.com/polposky/videos/vb.1063785937/10214859864624514/?type=3
:o don’t see that every day... that’s insane. Incredible modeling. Now if only he had interest in rustbuckets. :trollface:
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Make your own truck:
https://www.facebook.com/polposky/videos/vb.1063785937/10214859864624514/?type=3
Holy m... insane talent. I'd take the time to watch that video at normal speed. Notice how he does almost everything while holding the parts in his hands--no jigs. I'd also like to learn how he cuts styrene freehand, no with straightedges...
And he likes cats...!1
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Holy m... insane talent. I'd take the time to watch that video at normal speed. Notice how he does almost everything while holding the parts in his hands--no jigs. I'd also like to learn how he cuts styrene freehand, no with straightedges...
I think he trace-cut over printed engineering drawings. Either that or he apprenticed with a professional pin-striper for years.
I am WAY late to this conversation, but a do enjoy a good airbrush:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5441/30085334353_d5365519ae_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5534/30720046745_a30eaf6b75_b.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5716/30085322843_68c3353167_b.jpg)
A few notes... my paint booth is no where near as tidy now. I had a bottle of thinned india ink explode on the unprotected wood surface. Maybe I should just spray it black :facepalm:
I'm also up to THREE paint racks now. I have about 200 bottles of paint. I use acrylic - Badger Modelflex, Testor's Acryl and Polly Scale (when I can find it). The inventory skews yellow and white for Polly Scale and Testors and other colors for Badger, which needs primer for lighter colors. Most of my custom mixes are Tamiya blends due to their availability and good working properties. I use Tamiya Acrylic thinner for everything. I like to use paint on the thin side - about the viscosity of coffee with cream and sugar. I also tend to run a bit higher pressure than most here - 30 PSI.
Air is supplied by a 3 gallon 150 PSI Lowe's special I purchased for under $80. I run two lines from the utility room to the layout room using a garage air line system and standard utility outlet boxes.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/705/22497151699_3661dea16b_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/655/22266566984_3179b54e31_b.jpg)
On the left you can see the regulated air line. This includes and in-line water trap and regulator in the layout room. For airbrushing, I set the pump at 50 PSI and adjust downward at the bench.
On the right is my dump air line. I use this for pressure casting. When using this I usually set the pump at 100 PSI and engage the cut-out valve (not shown) to the air brush line to avoid damage to the water trap.
On to the brushes!
Brand preference is a bit like cameras - you're a Nikon or Canon guy, or one of those people who throw convention to the wind and use Sony or Olympus. In this case, I have always preferred Badger to Paasche. Badger is made in the US, and their support is excellent. The owner very friendly and treks out to various conventions (such as Springfield) to sell products. You can also get some insane deals on Badger - more on that later.
Badger 250:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1668/24747319929_e69f7eea08_b.jpg)
This is a single action, external mix brush that is about as cheap as they come. At the Badger thrift shop (http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Thrift_store.asp), you can often find these 3 for $12. They are also available on Amazon for very cheap money. Good for painting scenery on the layout, or misting down thinned white glue. Not very useful for model work.
Badger 350:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1531/24488135673_77ea018980_b.jpg)
A basic external mix brush that the guys in MR are always pushing for newbies. I don't really know why they prefer it other than cost - a dual action airbrush is always easier to operate than these. You can get decent results for models, and the spray area is good for larger projects. I got this one for $18 new off eBay.
Badger 200:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1443/24484325204_c8dcec0ccc_b.jpg)
This is the brush that gets Pete's heart all aflutter. This was my first airbrush though I don't use it much anymore. Like the Ship of Theseus, pretty much every part has been replaced at one point or another. They go for around $80 these days. Good all around brush for painting, but limited use for detail weathering.
Badger 155:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1474/24484324594_f8556054cb_b.jpg)
My first dual action airbrush. What a revelation. Dual action is a must for acrylic paints as you can adjust the flow to avoid clogs. I got this for $60 using one of those 50% off coupons at AC Moore.
Badger 360:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1693/24484323964_4e305b1d5b_b.jpg)
My current workhorse. An advanced dual action airbrush with a rotating cup to switch from gravity fed cup to siphon fed bottle. This brush really can do it all from fine detail work to large O scale models. Easy to set up and clean. $80 direct from Badger at Springfield several years ago.
Badger/Thayer & Chandler Omni Matrix:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1590/24996787122_4b009c6db6_b.jpg)
So this is a bit of an odd duck. From what I gather, Badger purchased a smaller company (or folded a subsidiary) called Thayer and Chandler. Parts were swapped around and the Omni Matrix was the result. The Matrix features a 360 body with a T&C fine needle, tip cap and guard. Mine was purchased from Badger's Thrift Shop about 10 years ago for about $60. It has all the features of the 360, but lighter and less balanced due to the aluminum handle. The fine tip can be swapped out for a medium one, but then it would be a 360 by any other name.
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This was my latest purchase:
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-2020-2F-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/
Dual action, gravity fed airbrush with extremely fine tip.
The price is a really, really good deal. This is a weathering brush. Great for exhaust, dust, fade and other very thin pigments used in thin layers sparingly. Great with india ink.
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Daniel, your setup looks like a dental office with all those "contraptions" connected to hoses/lines. :D
Nice setup!
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I have seen photos of your painting area in the past Daniel - very impressive! Good to see Badger represented here (other than my lowly model 200). :)
I like mine because like I said, I don't do weathering (maybe I'll start someday), and I just use it as a mini spray-gun (which is what the 200 is perfect for). I have used double-action airbrushes in friend's workshops (when working on their layouts,and even doing some weathering of their stuff), so I'm familiar with how they work. I also did buy a Badger Anthem (?) dual action airbrush when they were dumping them at Michael's for really short money (IIRC, around $40). I have it put away until I have a need for dual action.
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What I really like about the dual action is the ability to blow in a painted area to dry it a little bit for a touch up coat on the fly, like if I sprayed too lightly in one pass.
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I have seen photos of your painting area in the past Daniel - very impressive! Good to see Badger represented here (other than my lowly model 200). :)
I like mine because like I said, I don't do weathering (maybe I'll start someday), and I just use it as a mini spray-gun (which is what the 200 is perfect for). I have used double-action airbrushes in friend's workshops (when working on their layouts,and even doing some weathering of their stuff), so I'm familiar with how they work. I also did buy a Badger Anthem (?) dual action airbrush when they were dumping them at Michael's for really short money (IIRC, around $40). I have it put away until I have a need for dual action.
The 155 Anthem is a really good brush. It would still be my daily driver had I not got such a deal on the 360. I really wonder about airbrush pricing in general. EBay Amazon and those 50% off coupons at Michael's and AC Moore make paying retail for a brush absurd. Maybe I'm just an opportunistic buyer. When one comes around at a steal I'll jump. I don't know if any other American tools you can get for 50-70% off with some regularity.
As for your 200... It does work well with your preferred smelly paints. Back in college I used to weather cars in my dorm room... With Dullcote. It cause obvious health problems and I have backed away from solvent paints since. With acrylics, you really do need a dual action if you use it a lot. This helps with tip clogging. Pull the trigger back (no air), swipe the tip with a wet q tip and carry on.
Not mentored yet here is the sand blaster. Badger has the Air Eraser, and it is just about the only product I have used that will strip paint off resin without ruining it. Well with the price.
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The 155 Anthem is a really good brush. It would still be my daily driver had I not got such a deal on the 360. I really wonder about airbrush pricing in general. EBay Amazon and those 50% off coupons at Michael's and AC Moore make paying retail for a brush absurd. Maybe I'm just an opportunistic buyer. When one comes around at a steal I'll jump. I don't know if any other American tools you can get for 50-70% off with some regularity.
As for your 200... It does work well with your preferred smelly paints. Back in college I used to weather cars in my dorm room... With Dullcote. It cause obvious health problems and I have backed away from solvent paints since. With acrylics, you really do need a dual action if you use it a lot. This helps with tip clogging. Pull the trigger back (no air), swipe the tip with a wet q tip and carry on.
Not mentored yet here is the sand blaster. Badger has the Air Eraser, and it is just about the only product I have used that will strip paint off resin without ruining it. Well with the price.
Good to know that Anthem is a good airbrush.
I also have the Air Eraser. I have used it to blast the flexible Delrin handrails for Kato locos before painting them with Accu-Paint. It makes the paint stick *REALLY* well.
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Well I impulsively picked up some Vallejo at hobby lobby thanks to a coupon. Will compare results with my enamels and let that influence any future paint purchases. It is hard to give up some spray bomb colors I like such as the rustoleum camo line but when I am through with my current stock of rustoleum, testors and floquil I want to settle on one brand of paint. The Vallejo products look quite promising. Not using as many nasty solvents would be a plus down the line.
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Well I impulsively picked up some Vallejo at hobby lobby thanks to a coupon. Will compare results with my enamels and let that influence any future paint purchases. It is hard to give up some spray bomb colors I like such as the rustoleum camo line but when I am through with my current stock of rustoleum, testors and floquil I want to settle on one brand of paint. The Vallejo products look quite promising. Not using as many nasty solvents would be a plus down the line.
You will be very happy with the Vallejo paints product and yes I have used them a lot.
I did some military modeling a couple of years back and they work very well.
Rod.
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It is hard to give up some spray bomb colors I like such as the rustoleum camo line but when I am through with my current stock of rustoleum, testors and floquil I want to settle on one brand of paint.
With the wide range of models I build, I don't think I can ever become a single-paint-brand modeler. And I often decant spray bombs to shoot them through the airbrush. You also seem to be into building all sorts of models. I think you will be severely limiting yourself by only using single brand (and type) of paints.
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With the wide range of models I build, I don't think I can ever become a single-paint-brand modeler. And I often decant spray bombs to shoot them through the airbrush. You also seem to be into building all sorts of models. I think you will be severely limiting yourself by only using single brand (and type) of paints.
This.
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I guess I misstated my intent, let me clarify. The paints I have chosen before the AB were whatever I could get my hands on. Generally rustoleum bombs from Home Depot, with plenty of spray cans of dull and gloss Cote. I am quite accustomed to these and using Winsor Newton oil colors for various effects as well as pan pastels. Don’t see me giving up the Oils or pastels. However when I run out of these rustoleum colors (some of which I have incomplete models that need more of these colors applied) I would like to give some other stuff a try; namely Vallejo acrylics for general painting. If I don’t like them then it’s back to the search for general paints unless I want to use spray bombs or decant them. For instance I use rustoleum camo khaki/sand brown and black a heck of a lot. I like these colors, are they replaceable? Idk! Being new to the AB I figure some probing of other paint brands could be good. However; having not used acrylics in awhile I am unsure about 1. How well they cover, 2. If they are easy to work with including cleaning or as far as the AB goes, and 3. How they get along with say oils applied with turpentine and dullcote. I would like to be able to not buy spray bombs to decant in the future and get the couple of say red primer and rustoleum camo colors in a jar. I have seen incredible paint and weathering applications with acrylics. With the booth and respirator I am less worried about being around nasty stuff but there is always room to explore in the universe of paint. :facepalm: now to find some rules of thumb for mixing different types of paints and solvents to prevent any unforeseen disasters. :trollface:
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I didn't take you as a one brand painter. I use Tamiya a lot, I thin with the Tamiya thinners and clean air brush with Iso, that works out cheaper.
Poly scale is hard to get Down Under and forget about non acrylic paints as they not allowed to be flown in to the country.
Distributors must get it by sea which can take months.
I only use spray cans like Tamiya surface primer and of course Dullcote which can be hard to get on occasions.
Try different brands and types you will favor one or the other over time.
Rod.