Weekend Update 9/16/18

[Mark W]

I had a bizarre thought a while ago.  The thought came back a few days ago, so I decided to experiment with it.  I want to giggle every time I look at it! 
I made it this far, gonna have to finish it. 


https://i.imgur.com/uVUI6mS.jpg

[johnb]

I had a bizarre thought a while ago.  The thought came back a few days ago, so I decided to experiment with it.  I want to giggle every time I look at it! 
I made it this far, gonna have to finish it. 


https://i.imgur.com/uVUI6mS.jpg

brio big boy?

[daniel_leavitt2000]

B23-7 with LoKSound
The headlight still needs to be attached to the light shield and the cab light pipes modified. Then tape the speaker to the frame.




Started weathering some more X72s.



FGE cars are coming along.

Sorry for the bad photos, my Cannon is packed away.

[narrowminded]

This is this weekend's progress on a lumber shed for the layout.  It is my first attempt at using India ink wash.  There is a thread in the scenery forum that I started for help on the topic.

The only things I've used the weathering on this far is the internal wood rack/ support structure, walkway, and railing piece assembly as well as the concrete base, all from a Walthers Walton and Son Lumber kit.  The building is assembled using the shed option rather than the fully enclosed building, bashed to reduce the length by three bays, but otherwise standard.  The paint is air brushed craft acrylic paint thinned with water, approximately 4 parts paint to three water, and Woodland Scenics concrete paint on the slab floor, all sealed with Krylon Flat Crystal Clear.  So far the India ink wash seems OK for this purpose.  I applied it with a typical finger pump spray bottle and left it to dry on the superstructure parts, rinsed and wiped it a little on the concrete base.  I am reluctant to try it on the exterior walls at this point as they are pale yellow with red trim and will magnify any dark wash tremendously.  I don't trust myself just yet with this procedure but with some experience will likely revisit that. 


Roof, ladders, and floor are not attached.  Ladders are not sealed and weathered.  Roof may receive tarpaper treatment, not sure yet.  Next may be lighting and then lumber stacks.  Considering two end floor bays to be divided with a crude wall and devoted to saws and such for custom cuts.

And a few pics...

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[craigolio1]

Oops sorry I thought you would know.  These are all future PGE cars:
- log stake car PGE 10255 (second series was delivered in black)
- open hoppers PGE 2503 & 2513 (also delivered in black)
- tank car PGE 1903 (painted black at time of rebuild)


Tim

Of course. I’m embarassed. Haha.

[narrowminded]

I started on three MLW RS-3 locomotives to replace my two older ones:

Tim

I like your math.

[GaryHinshaw]

One of my weekend projects was repairing a relic: a Maxi-III still in SP markings.  This set was involved in a wreck about a year ago, which sent it to the bottom of a canyon (read: the concrete floor).  Amazingly, it suffered relatively minor damage, except for a broken articulated joint loop.  Fortunately I had a junker Maxi-III set from which I was able to steal a part, though the repair still required a dicey splice joint.  It seems to have worked though, so the relic is back in service hauling a fresh batch of the fabulous JTC containers:



P.S. This set had been upgraded with Kato 125T trucks, and in the process, I disabled the permanent articulation joints these models shipped with.  If the set had been permanently joined when the wreck happened, I don't think it would have ended well.

[SAH]

Wood or styrene?

0.015" styrene

[alhoop]

NYC FlexFlo Hoppers

Quote from Deviant Art website about NYC FlexFlo hoppers:
"also another thing about the hoppers is that they look german"

That is what I thought about car in photo1(made by AHM) until while browsing Spookshow's site
re American Freight Cars there it was.
I have had car for years and thought it was European because of the postlike grabs/handholds.
Have decided to upgrade using photo2 as a reference. Will:
1 replace broken hand grab posts, grind down caston detail on 6 remaining post and add grab iron wire to all eight.
2 remove valves from pneumatic line on one side and use line as train(brake) line.
3. Add A/B valve(s) and pipe to air tanks.
4. Maybe add cut levers on end sills instead of grab irons in photo2 - don't see what purpose they serve.
5. Replace missing brake wheel and mount.

Any suggestions - especially how brake systems are implemented on hopper cars (covered or open)
ie are brake beams still in use or is there something better?
I do know Schnabel cars are treated as two separate cars as far as the brake system is concerned.
Why does this hopper car have two air tanks?
Thanks
Al Hooper

[Blazeman]

Saturday, was invited to "run" at Bob Stetser's PC/1975 layout, then Sunday, out to Gettysburg for the open house event.  Started at Adam's (mu26aeh) finished at Brian Wolfe's magnificent opus.  It will be featured either in a MR article or get the full treatment in GMR.  Paul Dolkos did the the photography.

[Mark W]

Added the centipede tender and tested on a curve.


https://i.imgur.com/L9WrFUo.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Y4Jj5Fe.jpg

[Bruce Bird]

Love that Big Boy- paint it black!

[chuck geiger]

This is such a cool kit BL Loading Ramp. Worked out great on siding.

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Installation is complete. Still fine tuning the sounds.

The sound files are pretty good for the B23-7. Just Like I remember. Programing the decoder took a very long time - over an hour to upload the sound file. Well worth it though.

[C855B]

My weekend was mostly working on this and related:



Details in layout thread: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=26087.msg588718#msg588718