Weekend Update 9/4/16

[dnhouston]

Finally finished up the scenery base on my factory kit bash (sorry about the poor lighting) which started out as a Bergen National Laser Sugar Beet factory module #2.
Now to install it on the layout.  All I have left to do is complete about 8 more tractors.  4 for display out in front as inventory and 4 for a flat car load.

[jmarley76]

Working on the refrigerated warehouse this weekend for the shelf layout...

[mu26aeh]

I worked on the O scale layout today.  Did some clean up work on this side, as well as installing some fascia.

20160904_161042[1] by Adam Henry, on Flickr

And on this side, we've tried a couple different methods of populating the hillside with trees.  I finally started drilling holes in the hillside and stick the tops of the sedum trees I made already into them.  We think we finally have the look we were looking for.

20160904_161056[1] by Adam Henry, on Flickr

[Philip H]

We are unpacking:

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That's the entire train store - including Elkins/ Baton Rouge in brown paper on the back right.

Now to get it all sorted and opened!

[Dave V]

Like real railroads, outdoor G scale layouts occasionally need to be reballasted.  In my case I also had to raise the west en do f the layout (again) due to settling.  If G scale were my primary hobby and had I known for sure when I started that this was/is my retirement home (likely now but not guaranteed) I would have opted for a more permanent subroadbed.  For now it rests on stacked pavers and gravel with pavers and boulders as retaining walls.  Anyway, the ballast is a paver base aggregate from Permangreen/Aspen Mountain that actually works out to be the perfect size for G scale.  They stones are also sharp so they should lock in place.  For now my Rio Grande Southern is better ballasted than the prototype ever was.

[jmlaboda - RIP]

Is that a "hooded" type G signal I see?  Would prefer to have individual visors for each light myself but it still looks really nice, as does all the detail you have assembled on the poles!!!  Really nice!!!

[Wutter]

@jmlaboda  Yes, indeed that is a hooded Type G, (actually a US&S TP-5) which was the main signal used on the Rock Island along with US&S H-2 searchlights. Note that their tri-lights also had the green and yellow in opposite positions compared to the more modern Type G's seen today. Proto pics below:





I've considered doing a revision to my fret design to incorporate individual hoods for the tri-light but I would need to confirm enough interest before making another run with individual hoods.

[Cajonpassfan]

Hi Otto, to prep brass prior to painting firstly place them in some paint thinners to remove any clear coatings that might exist, remove any plastic diaphragms and details that might exist on the model as the thinners will wreck them, let the item soak for a few hours. Take the item out of the thinners and thoroughly wash with mild alkaline detergent or a good quality dish washing detergent, rinse the item clean and check for any contamination that has not been removed. Once you are satisfied that the model is clean take a 5 to 1 ratio of water to white vinegar and a couple of drops of dish washing detergent to act as a wetter, use water at about 50 degrees Celsius, heat up the model in warm water, once it is warm immerse the item into the warm vinegar/water mix and watch the item develop a bright fine etch. Heating up the vinegar mix speeds up the process.  Do not leave it unsupervised as this mix can quickly result in a coarse etch that will show through the finish as a rough texture. When you are happy with the appearance rinse it off with warm water first then cold, no detergent is needed at this stage. Dry the item off, and give it a quick wipe with alcohol prior to painting to ensure there are no water marks that you have missed. Make sure to rinse the items as soon as you take them out of the vinegar as the brew will keep reacting on the model  if you don't.   

You can use a variety of acids to brighten the brass, but keep away from sulfuric and hydrochloric acids, they are not suitable and will damage your item.

I think I might have been watching those on the bay, I was tempted but they don't fit my collection, have fun.

If you feel unsure take a scrap piece of brass and play so you can get a feel for what you are doing.

That's quite a tutorial, thank you! I'm not sure I care about brightening the brass, it will get painted shortly after getting the treatment. Do I need to prime it? I'd prefer not to, to keep the paint buildup to a minimum. I have seen too many beautifully detailed models ruined by "oversize" paint...
Otto

[Dave V]

A little nighttime fun.  "Night train to Durango."

[peteski]

That's quite a tutorial, thank you! I'm not sure I care about brightening the brass, it will get painted shortly after getting the treatment. Do I need to prime it? I'd prefer not to, to keep the paint buildup to a minimum. I have seen too many beautifully detailed models ruined by "oversize" paint...
Otto

The way I see it the brightening process is not for appearance but to etch the surface to prepare it for the paint.

[cbroughton67]

Added a keep alive and sound to my Key brass PRR J-1 and I1s, as well as some weathering.
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[cbroughton67]

Added a keep alive and sound to my Key brass PRR J-1 and I1s, as well as some weathering.
(Attachment Link)

And apparently, posting from one's iPhone is a bad idea... Sorry for the inverted photos! Ugh...

Chris

[Missaberoad]

And apparently, posting from one's iPhone is a bad idea... Sorry for the inverted photos! Ugh...

Chris

They still look georgous! Good enough that I can see what you SPFs see in that railroad

[havingfuntoo]

The brightness of the brass will indicate the the grade of the etch, your model has that coppery look about it so I am guessing (again) that it might have been given a dose of phos acid or something similar already, so just be careful when you do your thing. The process I described is for preparing prior to painting not for display. If you are wanting to display the model unpainted then you would use chromic acid that will leave a conversion coating on the model, that is also a good prep prior to painting but not an easy product to procure and has some health and pollution issues associated.

Do you need to undercoat? I feel generally you should because it gives a better finish and more predictable color, but this is where I am going to hand you over to the next, from the work I have seen presented there are others far more capable and experienced than I, my expertise is still at the sandy look finish, well I exaggerate a little but I am sure you get the idea. Please post some pictures as you go.     

[Cajonpassfan]

And apparently, posting from one's iPhone is a bad idea... Sorry for the inverted photos! Ugh...

Chris

Well, my head is spinning, but what a sight
Nice work Chris!
Otto K. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]