Atlas EMD SD60E suddenly died

[carmelmodelrr]

I've run this DC locomotive in tandem with another EMD SD60E without incident for some time until this evening when the loco began stuttering badly and, for practical purposes, stopped.  The wheels seemed somewhat dirty so I cleaned them (although they were not THAT dirty) and tried running it again with the same result--the loco barely budged.  I took the shell off and discovered a significant amount of oil on the body (which I assume was put there during production of the loco).  I wiped that off and reassembled the loco with the same result--barely moving. 

Any ideas?

Thank you.

carmelmodelrr

[nkalanaga]

What happens if you connect power directly to the motor contacts?

[randgust]

Also helps to identify which generation of Atlas SD60 you're talking about here, because the 'contacts to the PC board' is always suspect.

See:  https://www.spookshow.net/loco/atlassd5060.html

[carmelmodelrr]

My SD60E is the “First Responders” loco which I believe makes it the most recent version.

Carmelmodelrr

[peteski]

Most manufacturers seem to slather the mechanism with oil/grease. Cleaning the gunk off the chassis and shell surfaces is a good idea, but will not fix this problem.

Since this is a DC model, troubleshooting should be simple.  When you apply power to the wheels (either by placing it on the track with the throttle cranked up, or even touching terminals of a fresh 9V battery to the wheels), does the headlight light up and stay lit while the motor is struggling to run?

How much running time does this model have?  Heavily or barely used?

[fcnrwy23]

I would suspect the contact with the DCC Board to start with.
Also the Wheel wire w/plug maybe a problem too.
This unit is from 2018, so the truck to frame contact is a wire with a plug at the end.  That was inserted into a hole in the side of the frame.
and NOT the bronze-like strips..

Jerry

[carmelmodelrr]

The problem was that the DC(C) board slipped out of its holders.  Once I slipped (forced) it back into place the loco runs. Thank you for your suggestions for this fairly heavily run loco.
However, one of the tiny wires connecting to the wheels has also broken.  Any ideas on how to fix that?  (I do have a soldering iron, but a wire this diameter?).

carmelmodelrr

[woodchip]

Atlas list the wire you need as a separate part. You could ask them if it’s possible to buy a complete truck assembly with the wires attached to the wheel wipers. I’d like to believe that the use of wires is an improvement over the uses of brass contact strips but can’t.

         Hugh. In Canada eh

[robert3985]

The problem was that the DC(C) board slipped out of its holders.  Once I slipped (forced) it back into place the loco runs. Thank you for your suggestions for this fairly heavily run loco.
However, one of the tiny wires connecting to the wheels has also broken.  Any ideas on how to fix that?  (I do have a soldering iron, but a wire this diameter?).

carmelmodelrr

What's the problem with soldering tiny wires??  They solder in much less time than larger wires.  Make sure whatever you're soldering it to is completely free of any oils.  I like to use Bestine (Heptane), a rubber cement thinner, which is a very effective de-greaser/de-waxer and doesn't react with plastic, paint or metals.  Then, make sure you put a little flux on the joint, make sure your iron's tip is clean, tinned and bright and hold the tiny wire in place with a tweezer and re-solder it to where it used to be.  I wouldn't even add any new solder.

Should be easy as pie to re-attach.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Should be easy to do

[peteski]

Should be easy as pie to re-attach.

Should be easy to do

Assuming that the person doing the soldering is skilled in soldering. Also assuming that there is a soldering iron available with a fine tip. Also, if the broken end is not at the truck but at the crimped pin which is press-fit into the chassis. that would make it a bit harder. 

[randgust]

Broken connection to the plug, connection to the truck pickup, or in the middle?

Truck is probably the easiest

[carmelmodelrr]

The break is at the coupler.

carmelmodelrr

[martin station]

The problem was that the DC(C) board slipped out of its holders.  Once I slipped (forced) it back into place the loco runs.

This same thing happened to me on a new Atlas NW GP38. Was running fine then stopped cold. My question is why did this happen? It seemed to fit tight when put back into place.
Ralph

[carmelmodelrr]

I’m not sure what I meant when I said the break is at the coupler.  The break is at the truck.

Carmelmodelrr

[robert3985]

Assuming that the person doing the soldering is skilled in soldering. Also assuming that there is a soldering iron available with a fine tip. Also, if the broken end is not at the truck but at the crimped pin which is press-fit into the chassis. that would make it a bit harder.

Yup.  I am assuming the modeler can see the wire either with unaided eyes or with an Optivisor or equivalent, isn't affected with excessive shakiness, has an iron that is okay for electronics work (not a pistol-type soldering "gun" or huge high-wattage old-time plumbing iron), and that the part which the wire has broken off of can be removed from any plastic part that surrounds it, and has sufficient light, an electrical plug nearby, some kind of horizontal work surface, a chair to sit down on, a container of tinning solution, a wet sponge to wipe the iron's tip with, a tip that isn't extensively corroded, and...hmmm...I can't think of any more assumptions at the moment...

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore