Adding feeders to Atlas code 55 turnouts

[nickelplate759]

Atlas code 55 turnouts have jumpers underneath that connect rails that have the same power feeds.
On my last layout, when I added power feeders to these turnouts, I soldered to these jumpers (and to the frog lead, not shown).
Put an AWG 22 feeder through the hole with a little rosin flux and soldered.

Is there a significant downside to this?  I found this far easier than trying to solder a feeder to the side of the rails without melting ties.




And yes, I know that home-built turnouts would be better.  I also know that I'm not going to to that at this time.

[nkalanaga]

The only downside I could see is if the jumpers came loose during soldering, but I would think the ties would melt long before the factory solder softened.

If the feeder ever comes loose one could always solder a new one to the rail anyway, so no, I don't see any reason not to do it.

[Lemosteam]

I rely on the adjacent track to power those rails since I solder the rails at the joiners anyway.  The frog powering makes me nervous already, so soldering to these would make me even more anxious.

[John]

Your mileage may vary, but those jumpers will eventually fail, along with the connection to the frog.. I have a bunch of switches that are at least 20 years old, and at least 1/2 of them have failed at one time or another ..

If you cut out the plastic between ties on one of them, you can slide it far enough apart to solder jumpers to the bottom of the rail, then move the tie back ..  you can also remove some of the plastic directly under the frog, soldering a wire directly to the mystery metal (most of the time). I use a small drill bit to create enough of an area to allow the solder to stick on the frog

[peteski]

Those jumpers appear to be spot welded to the bottom of the rail.  As such, this joint should be very reliable since the metal of the jumper and the rail is fused together (not just soldered).  I'm surprised that  those joints are this unreliable.  Maybe because the jumpers are made from slightly different metal than the rails?

[bigdawgks]

Your mileage may vary, but those jumpers will eventually fail, along with the connection to the frog.. I have a bunch of switches that are at least 20 years old, and at least 1/2 of them have failed at one time or another .. 

I can confirm, these are not very reliable. We use these turnouts on our club layout and the connection between the jumpers and rail occasionally fail.

I don't think they are mechanically connected (ex: no solder). If you look at the holes in the plastic, the jumpers appear to be dimpled. I think they assemble the turnout then punch a dimple into the jumper through those holes, creating a high spot that presses against the bottom of the rail. Once in a while you get one that has no continuity with the rail.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I can confirm, these are not very reliable. We use these turnouts on our club layout and the connection between the jumpers and rail occasionally fail.

I don't think they are mechanically connected (ex: no solder). If you look at the holes in the plastic, the jumpers appear to be dimpled. I think they assemble the turnout then punch a dimple into the jumper through those holes, creating a high spot that presses against the bottom of the rail. Once in a while you get one that has no continuity with the rail.

I've had a similar experience. I think they're a solution that's just a touch too clever.

[bman]

wouldn't adding feeders to the rail joiners on each rail also solve this?  That's the route I am planning on taking when I get back to the layout room someday. I will then add insulated joiners on a small piece of track 1 inch or so in lenght past these joints. I too am not in feeling confident in my ability to solder these underneath.

[nickelplate759]

wouldn't adding feeders to the rail joiners on each rail also solve this?  That's the route I am planning on taking when I get back to the layout room someday. I will then add insulated joiners on a small piece of track 1 inch or so in lenght past these joints. I too am not in feeling confident in my ability to solder these underneath.

This would work if you also solder the rail joiner to the rail.  Otherwise it will fail (electrically) over time (I know 'cause I tried it once up on a time).

As far as soldering feeders to rail, I have my best luck doing it at the workbench.  To get better at it I literally took a piece of flex track and practiced over and over and over (probably 10+ times) then threw that track into the scrap heap.   I'm not great at doing it on switches, and they're expensive if (when) I screw up. I do like @Lemosteam 's idea of soldering the rail joiner and putting the feeder on the adjacent flex track and plan to try that.

[NtheBasement]

Don't solder feeders to turnouts.  Turnouts are way more expensive than track and you may someday want to reuse them.  That involves cutting the adjacent track so that the turnout stays pristine and then desoldering the rail connectors afterwards.  Lot easier to remove them without damage if the feeders are on the adjacent rail instead of on the turnout.

[SAH]

The only thing for certain about a topic like this is that everyone will have an opinion.  Here's what I do:




I also take a #32 wire from the decoder scrap wire pouch, strip the insulation clean, and solder it across the point rail hinge.  Sorry, no photos of that.
After I started using a resistance soldering outfit the quality of my work improved immensely.

[mmagliaro]

Like others have said, if you are going to solder feeders at all, and I strongly suggest that you do, cut away a little tie underneath and solder directly to the rail.  Those contact strips are supposed to be spot welded to the rail, I guess, but enough of them fail that soldering feeders before installing any turnout became part of my standard procedure for all turnouts when I was laying my track.  Make sure you scratch/sand/clean the bottom of the rail and lay the turnout on something like a damp paper towel so the heat doesn't travel too far.  And use flux, so you can get in and out quick when making the joints.

[Doug G.]

The jumpers are not spot welded to the rail. They are just staked. If they fail, they can be re-staked.

Doug

[peteski]

The jumpers are not spot welded to the rail. They are just staked. If they fail, they can be re-staked.

Doug

Staked? Please explain.
Also, how do you "re-stake" them on a ballasted turnout installed on the layout?

[Doug G.]

Staking is where two pieces of metal are overlaid and a sharp tool, like a scribe or pointed punch, is used to force one piece into the other to secure them, basically kind of welding them together but not really. There is no heat involved.

In this case, you have the rail and the flat jumper is "staked/poked" into the rail. It is possible for it to fail because the staking can loosen over time and electrical contact is lost between the two pieces of metal. You can use a sharp tool and tack hammer to redo the staking. I have done it many times as Atlas switches, and other brands, have used staking for eons between those parts.

You don't re-stake them while they are installed.

Doug