Author Topic: Decaling, Surface prep and theory  (Read 4124 times)

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chicken45

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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #30 on: October 14, 2014, 09:27:39 AM »
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No, you can.  I was just kidding.   :tommann:

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BCR751

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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #31 on: October 17, 2014, 11:40:30 AM »
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I've tried top coating the decals produced on my ink jet printer with both Micro Scale Decal Film and the Super Cal spray and the ink runs using both.  I didn't air brush the MS decal film, I just used a soft bristle brush.  Maybe I put it on too thick?  Not sure what went wrong using the spray.

Doug

peteski

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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #32 on: October 17, 2014, 01:00:25 PM »
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I've tried top coating the decals produced on my ink jet printer with both Micro Scale Decal Film and the Super Cal spray and the ink runs using both.  I didn't air brush the MS decal film, I just used a soft bristle brush.  Maybe I put it on too thick?  Not sure what went wrong using the spray.

Doug

Maybe the ink wasn't quite dry yet?

I never messed around with ink jet printed decals (I use an Alps printer).  To me Alps or laser printed decals are so much easier to deal with (both use waterproof inks).
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Pete Steinmetz

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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #33 on: October 18, 2014, 11:16:52 AM »
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I've used Future.  Awesome stuff. 

If I don't want to get the airbrush out, I use Tamiya Clear Gloss and Clear Flat.  I ran out of Clear Flat yesterday.  I had a couple of half full cans of Dullcote.  I started spraying them and was surprised at how gloppy the stuff was compared to the fine mist of Tamiya.

I put both cans of Dullcote in the trash.

Pete
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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #34 on: October 18, 2014, 11:57:44 AM »
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I had a couple of half full cans of Dullcote.  I started spraying them and was surprised at how gloppy the stuff was compared to the fine mist of Tamiya.

I put both cans of Dullcote in the trash.

Pete

Wow Pete - tell us how you really feel about Testors (um, RPM) products.  Don't hold back!  This is like deja-vou all over again - I think this is the 3rd post from you which pretty much says the same thing.  Testors sucks - Valejo rules.  :D

I use plenty of Testors organic solvent based paints (spray and bottle, including Dull and Glosscote) for my various hobbies and I don't think they are all that bad.  :|

Getting back to Dull and Gloss cotes specifically, I buy them in the bottles (brushable version) and then make my own airbrush-ready mixture (gloss and dull cotes plus lacquer thinner). It gives me as nice and smooth satin finish to my N scale cars.  Not as you say gloppy at all.
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Scottl

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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #35 on: October 18, 2014, 02:14:03 PM »
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I tracked down Pledge/Future here (Walmart, the horror) and just had a session with it.  It lives up to its recommendation, straight out of the bottle.  :D

daniel_leavitt2000

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Re: Decaling, Surface prep and theory
« Reply #36 on: October 18, 2014, 09:16:33 PM »
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I always used semi-gloss for paint applications. There are only a few models I have ever used a primer on, mostly when I need a yellow paint over two different colors of plastic.

Semi-gloss seems to be the best match to the decal film from Microscale. After decaling I always seal it with a clear coat: semi gloss for new engines and flat for older, dirtier equipment. I like Testor's clear coats and their Lusterless finish is a bit nicer than regular Dullcoat.

I never had any silvering using this method, but I use insane amounts of Micro-Sol/Set over a several hour period.
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« Reply #37 on: October 26, 2014, 02:55:02 AM »
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« Last Edit: August 06, 2016, 01:25:07 AM by MrKLUKE »