Rebuilding Rowa Berkshire tender

[nickelplate759]

I've obtained an Rowa tender that came with the old MRC Berkshire.   I want to disassemble it so I can rebuild it. I can see that the floor is a separate piece, but cant see how to loosen it enough to separate it (it doesn't seem to be glued).  I'd appreciate hearing from someone who has done it before successfully.

George

[ I changed the title to better reflect the project I am undertaking - was "disassembling..."

[Viperjim1]

There ar 4 tabs 1 at each corner if I'm thinking of the same tender . They are small and you should just be able to push on each tab with a small screwdriver to loosen the top part, hope this helps and hope its the same kind I'm thinking of.

[nickelplate759]

Thanks, but I've looked and don't see any tabs.

[victor miranda]

square tender?

center rear and two hidden front corners.

pictures If I can find the one I have....

victor

[nickelplate759]

Maybe I'm just not with it today. Here's a picture of the underside of the tender:


I don't see any latches.  I can slide a thin knife blade between the floor and the sides, but I can't seem to work anything loose, and I don't want to get the blade too close to the corners and crack them.

George

[victor miranda]

the back latch is the one to aim at.
I can't find the one I have.

take a pict of the back of the tender.

[nickelplate759]

Got it!  No latches at all - GLUE!

Fortunately, after 40+ years the glue didn't hold well.

I pried gently above the brass plate that the drawbar pin is anchored to (not shown in the picture) and was able to work it loose.

[Viperjim1]

Are you adding weight or are you going to do something else maybe some wiring for more electrical pick ups? I have 2 of the Rowa 2-8-8-2 s and one is a Southern pacific that is an original smoker unit , please let me know what your doing possibly I'll do it to mine thanks.

[nickelplate759]

There's already plenty of weight.  I'm modifying it to put behind a Model Power 2-8-2, so it will better resemble one of the NKP Mikados with 12-wheel tenders (yes, it will still be a foobie, but...).      So, I plan to do the following:

1. Fix it so it rolls.  Right now the wheels barely turn -- it's more of a skidder than a tender.
2. change the wheels out for low-flange wheels
3. change the pickup scheme so one truck picks up from each rail (right now they both pick up from the same side)
4. adapt it to the Model Power drawbar
5. Install a DCC decoder
6. repaint it.

George

[nickelplate759]

Next challenge  - I need to replace the old wheelsets.  The .540" Fox Valley axles are too short - they tend to fall out.
The next size up, .553", are a bit to long - they bind up and don't roll.    So, I'm looking for help in one of two forms:

1. is there a replacement 33" metal wheelset, low-profile, suitable for electrical pickup on one side, with a length between the two above?

2. what's a good way to modify the sideframe to accept a the longer .553" axle - or to slightly shorten the axle?

George

[Carolina Northern]

How about some Bachmann trucks?

[nickelplate759]

I considered the Bachmann Berkshire trucks, but  they aren't available (yet - I'm hoping).  If they do become available they might be perfect, but in the meantime I'd love a technique to get these to work.

[nkalanaga]

Northwest Short Line makes (or made) some beautiful, and somewhat expensive, wheelsets, with a 0.550 axle length.  They worked in my Bachmann full-length dome car, but I don't know if they would be enough shorter to work for you.

[mmagliaro]

Well... it takes nerve and a little luck, but I have managed to deepen the holes in truck sideframes by twirling
the point of a small bit in a pin vise.  A lot depends on the exact shape of the point on the end of that axle,
drilling into the holes a little with something like a #76 bit might do the trick, especially if the amount you need
to get them free-rolling is slight.

If you have a drill press, and you can pull the wheels off the axle (which might not be so hard on tender wheelsets),
you can chuck the axle in the drill press and just hold a file steady against the taper on the exposed end of the axle.
(a "poor man's lathe").  It will shorten the axle and form a new point.   Finish up with some 800 grit sandpaper
to get a nice smooth finish.

I've use both of these techniques, but I do warn that if you don't get it exactly right, the axle may wobble up and down
in the sideframes as it rolls.  I've bungled a few like that.  Personally, I prefer doing the axle mod, because if I blow it,
I can start all over again by cutting a new piece of shafting, and tapering down both ends.

You *could* try just chucking the axle in a Dremel or power drill, but that's really playing with fire because it's hard
to hold everything steady enough to get an even, tapered point on the axle.  (I have done it this way, but I prefer
putting the axle in my mill (or a drill press would work fine).  It just keeps the shaft turning true and straight so you
only have to worry about holding the file.

[glakedylan]

just a short thought

another area of N Scale modeling where someone like MM could step in and provide an N
Scale version of their O and HO tool, along with a quartering jig

just wishing

Gary