Santa Fe in China Basin

[railnerd]

I decided to continue to use a very tight arrangement of turnouts with the points being close to the adjacent turnout.  Track spacing in the yard will be 1.125", as I have lots of convenient Free-moN spacing fixtures.  The prototype spacing is 14', which works out to 1.05".



Keeping the throat compact is important to maximize the capacity of of each track.  My goal is to keep the railcars for more than one float in this portion of the yard.  I need nearly 38" of track to hold a reasonable number of 40' boxcars.  Here is the experiment that drove this home— only 8-10 40' cars fit on a single piece of ME Flex, and that doesn't include necessary clearance to avoid fouling switches.



After debating a bunch of new techniques for throwbar mechanisms, I settled upon using the heavier Clover House PCB stock to provide more surface area for silver-soldered points.  Control of the turnouts will be through the use of SPDT slide switches.

[railnerd]

It is finally time to start building the ferry slip module.   I wanted a to make sure it was strong and light, so I went a bit crazy and spent some $$$ on aluminum extrusion to build the module frame.

First step was to cut the t-slot extrusion to length (yes, we moved everything out of the way before we turned on the saw):


Next came some of the "erector set" pieces to join the cut strut into a frame:


But even more important than anything else, the module frame is "Rule 0" compliant, so it will actually be available for use in a setup:


(fixed images that appear to have vanished)

[Spades]

But even more important than anything else, the module frame is "Rule 0" compliant, so it will actually be available for use in a setup:

Dave

It looks like a Mini and I am sure you were just trying a lengthwise fit. Having transported modules in everything from a F-150 to a Beech Baron, the precarious placement of the module in the photo leads to scuffing of your vehicle and module and its details.  One panic stop and you module experiences,  a wicked scraped earth/tsunami effect.

Have you seen the new Santa Fe to the Bay book?  4 pages dedicated to Ferry Point, map and photos of the Santa Fe Navy.  Particularly good shot of a SF barge deck.

[railnerd]

It looks like a Mini and I am sure you were just trying a lengthwise fit. Having transported modules in everything from a F-150 to a Beech Baron, the precarious placement of the module in the photo leads to scuffing of your vehicle and module and its details.  One panic stop and you module experiences,  a wicked scraped earth/tsunami effect.

You are correct in assuming was a Q&D test. The car is a mini clubman and front passenger seat is actually not tilted forward in this photo.  Having this on angle is actually a bad thing™, but I was necessitated by all the other crap in the "trunk".  Next step is to attach a thin plywood top, and a 3/4" plywood endplate to the module end.   End to end, I am pretty close to being at limit.   The module here is only 12" wide (minimum width for Free-moN)

Have you seen the new Santa Fe to the Bay book?  4 pages dedicated to Ferry Point, map and photos of the Santa Fe Navy.  Particularly good shot of a SF barge deck.

Yep, grabbed that book ASAP when I saw it appear at my LHS.  Really, really useful for capturing the line from Stockton to Richmond.

-Dave

[railnerd]

After a long and busy summer at work, I finally had some spare time over the last weekend to add the plywood top to the aluminum framework.

My nephew was super helpful and used a 3D printer to fabricate brackets, while another friend was kind enough to let me use his table saw to cut the top.




Here is a view of the underside— those 3d-printed blue components are secured to the sides of the module frame, and allow the top to be fastened from below:

[Spades]

Dave

Love the  industrial look of the module construction. is the aluminum framing going to be covered by fascia?  Some unwanted unsolicited advice I would try a test fit of the module in the Mini.

G

[railnerd]

Dave

Love the  industrial look of the module construction. is the aluminum framing going to be covered by fascia?  Some unwanted unsolicited advice I would try a test fit of the module in the Mini.

G

The sides most likely will be covered with black masonite or ABS sheet.  Had I been thinking ahead I would have gotten the black anodized extrusion.

Still fits in my car— would NOT fit in a a 2-door hardtop, but fits just fine in a clubman.  Going to ride around with it to test the bracket strength.

-Dave

[Mike C]

 The aluminum frame is really nice !  It would good with the front being black anodized .  One thing I would change though , I'd run the long pieces the full width and tuck the side pieces in behind them . It would look more finished that way ....Mike

[railnerd]

One thing I would change though , I'd run the long pieces the full width and tuck the side pieces in behind them . It would look more finished that way ....Mike

Totally agree with you on that— this is definitely a learning process.

[railnerd]

Getting the plywood down inspired me to put down some paint…  but the the first pass looks a tad too "tropical":



Well, at least I know that the next layer of paint will need to have a bunch more green and maybe some brown gunk mixed in.

-Dave

[railnerd]

Applied another translucent layer of greenish paint with sponges, along with a generous helping of gloss medium gel.  Also extended the bay a bit, as a test fit of the dock showed I was missing some "water" I needed.



-Dave

[railnerd]

Test fitting the pier atop the newly painted module frame.  I'm happy with the water— time to finish the pier, which will involve a LOT more painting and gluing.  (Sorry for the lack of depth of field in the photo)

[aikorob]

It is finally time to start building the ferry slip module.   I wanted a to make sure it was strong and light, so I went a bit crazy and spent some $$$ on aluminum extrusion to build the module frame.

First step was to cut the t-slot extrusion to length (yes, we moved everything out of the way before we turned on the saw):


Next came some of the "erector set" pieces to join the cut strut into a frame:


But even more important than anything else, the module frame is "Rule 0" compliant, so it will actually be available for use in a setup:


(fixed images that appear to have vanished)

Using the extrusion---that should take care of the rigidity/warping issues of a wood frame. Don't know what brand you used, but the big US supplier (8020.net) has plastic end caps and slot covers to finish off your frame assembly

[railnerd]

China Basin Ferry Slip got a few more piers tonight:

[Cajonpassfan]

Holy c**p!
That's just amazing
Otto K.