Seaboard Central 2.0

[davefoxx]

Needs more cowbell!

I don't know about cowbell, but it certainly lacks Conrail.   

[basementcalling]

I don't know about cowbell, but it certainly lacks Conrail.   

Life is good.

[central.vermont]

Where'd that car come from?!?!

The S.

That would be an Atlas USRA Single-Sheathed Box Car.   
Jon

[davefoxx]

After I put the little ones to bed tonight, I piddled with the core of the former SAL station that Lee designed.  As with the A&R enginehouse, I am not building this structure to scale, but rather to fit the space available.  I'm also severely limited by available N scale doors and windows, because I don't have the skills to scratchbuild them.

Tonight, I got the middle section of the station roughed out.  It's a real pain to cut the holes for the doors and windows.  Keep in mind that this core will be laminated with brick veneer, so the evident sins will be concealed.


Here's where this is supposed to be heading:


DFF

[Bendtracker1]

Looking good Dave.
For cutting the Windows out MC Fujiwara used these before in one of his videos.



http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Inch-Rectangle-Hand-Punch/dp/B000MAPHXS

I grabbed one a while back, as long as you're not using real thick styrene, they work real good.

[davefoxx]

Hmm. Interesting.  Although I use 0.040" for the walls, where the punch might not work well, I bet that it will work great on the thin styrene "brick" veneer where the neatness will really count.  Thanks, Allen and M.C.!

DFF

[davefoxx]

Until I get that punch, I'll piddle on with the core of the station.  This morning, I started the baggage wing.  None of the windows or doors are glued in yet, which explains the blue masking tape window blinds.  Again, the whole structure will be laminated with brick veneer, so the ham-fisted window and door openings you see here will not show.



That's about as far as this project will get this weekend.  Vacation's coming to an end, and I've got chores and other family obligations to tend to.

DFF

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Beautiful!

[wazzou]

The windows look like a good candidate for Shapeways. 

[wm3798]

Hey... those windows are almost dead on for the ones that come with DPM modulars.  Take a gander at that yard office you got from me.  Arched tops and everything.  Need some?  I have a pile of them.  I may have even scaled them out for the drawing, figuring you'd see that... sorry I didn't point that out sooner.

The big divided light windows you're using are too big and divided lighty.  Am I going to have beat you with a tape measure again?



Lee

[davefoxx]

@wm3798,

Can't you read?    I wrote that I didn't need a scale model and that I used windows I already had in the scrap box, which are pretty much all that is out there commercially in N scale.

That said, if you want to send me some DPM parts, please and thank you!  But, this means that I would have to cut each individual window out of the walls.  Ugh.  "Who's got time fo' dat?!"  Got any suggestions for an easy and quick way to cut those windows out?

Oh, and I need easy and quick, because, apparently, you will also have me tied up rebuilding the highway bridge when you stop beating me with your tape measure and actually use it to get some measurements off a North Carolina bridge, as promised. 

DFF

[wm3798]

We're going back down Labor Day weekend.  Your dimensions will be forthcoming forthwith.

I know you're not going for a scale model, but something as distinctive as the windows has to be taken into consideration.  Close enough is indeed good enough, but using divided light square windows is not anywhere close to tall, rectangular 1/1 windows with arched tops.  You get a yellow card for that!

The good news on the DPM windows is that they mount from the inside, so you don't have to re-cut your core, just trim the flash around the window, and then install your brickwork tight to the window frame. 

As for cutting the wall stock, the best I can offer you is a nice scale ruler with cork on the back to prevent slippage, and a sharp #11 blade, and lots of patience.  The square punch looks useful, and may be just the thing for the brick skin.  For thicker stock, though, you might try using a drill to get some pilot holes through, then whittle it square with an X-acto.

I used a layering technique when I did the Cumberland Station (no shortage of window holes there!) and was pretty pleased with the outcome, although on close inspection you'll find a couple of doozies.



Lee

[davefoxx]

@wm3798,

Maybe I misunderstood.  Are you saying that you have DPM windows that are separate pieces and not cast into the walls?  I thought DPM windows weren't separate, which is why it's a pain in the butt to paint DPM structures.  If you have separate windows, then, what's wrong with you, man?!  Get 'em up here!  I couldn't care less about starting over with a new core.  That's just a few pieces of 0.040" styrene.  No big loss there.

I don't expect the Fiskars punch to work on the 0.040" styrene core, but any and all boogers in the core won't be seen with the application of the styrene brick veneer, which is thin.  The punch should work well on that material.  The drill holes for the thicker styrene is a good idea, though.

DFF

[wm3798]

Yes... the DPM MODULAR system has separate windows.  They're in banks of three.  Look up the dress of the yard office, and you'll see what I mean.

I'll have to root them up, but I'm sure I can spare enough for the project and send them your way.  PM me a mailing addy and I'll stick them in an envelope this afternoon.

Lee

[wm3798]

I found 21 windows.  Should be plenty, including the ones you'll need to cut short for the back wall.  You might even be able to use the modular walls to make the wings of the building... 

Lee