Etching ideas - (biased towards diesel handrails)

[GaryHinshaw]

As it happens, I have also started drawing up some SD40-2 handrails as well, since I will probably want to try several samples in one run for test purposes.  For now, I'm using a Kato mid-production model (CN/IC #6253) as my reference.  (The way the stock handrails are made, the last 4-5 stanchions are extremely floppy, which drives me crazy, especially since they're so prominent around that big back porch.)  Here's a quick pic:



In this case it seems like the best approach is to include a half-etched side sill overlay, as shown across the bottom, but I'm a bit wary of that and may draft up some alternative ideas too.  One firm requirement I have is that the stanchions need to be joined across the bottom some way, otherwise the part is too fragile (as is the case with the Athabasca part).  But once tied, they're quite strong.  In any case, my goal is to have them be both finer and more solid.  Hopefully those two goals are not mutually exclusive... we'll see.

By the way, I've heard of people having issues with stainless steel curling in large half-etch sections like this side sill.  Does anyone have experience with nickel silver or phosphor bronze in similar applications?

Thanks,
Gary

[lashedup]

Gary put me down for at least 2-4 sets of SD70MAC handrails. I'd also take a few SD40-2. Are the SD70M or SD70ACE a lot different?

Could make yourself a nice little cottage side business with this. If I take the time investment in doing them by hand into this, I'd be willing to pay a bit for these and be able to justify it very easily.

Speaking of etching brass, I'm working on my first brass side for a heavyweight right now (UP Portland Club obs). Fun stuff!

- jamie

[Bremner]

wow...I would love to have U25B, U30C and GP35 hand rails....and a U30C L Cab, and a SP GE roof bell....

[Scottl]

Gary, I have just used the nice stainless steel etched handrails on the Kaslo Shops SD50/60 models.  They look excellent up close and the detail is well preserved.  He connects them at the bottom with a strip of metal for rigidity and there is a corresponding slot in the shell that hides the strip.  Not an ideal solution for modifying a factory shell, but might be worth looking at.  Kind of a hidden version of the Alkem Models railings.  Kaslo Shops is within driving distance of where you are, so you might be able to contact him and get some insights.

[GaryHinshaw]

Thanks for the feedback.  Wish I had more progress to report, but I'm tied up with work and layout preps (just got my Fast Tracks order yesterday!)

Scott, I though Kaslo was on the Island (see how quickly I went native?)  but maybe I will try to look him up.  The only similar sample I've seen in person is the SW1200 set from Athabasca (up-thread), which is quite nice, but untied across the bottom, and therefore fragile until installed.

Cheers,
Gary

[Scottl]

Gary, he's in Coquitlam, a suburb of Vancouver. I heard a rumour he might be working out of country for a year, but have not confirmed it.

[Bremner]

what ever happened to this project?

[Scottl]

Gary needs to clone himself 

[GaryHinshaw]

...or contract it out to Ed N.      (Seeing his new drawings of the coupler pockets has me thinking about this project again though.)

[Packer]

Nice to see this revived.

I've actaully been thinking about doing these for HO-scale models. I'd esecially like a set for P2K GP7/9/18/20 and If I could find a set of calipers small enough to measure then and get a copy of some CAD software I might try it.

I imagine a stepwell kit with an extra step (ala GN locomotives) would also sell well. I was expecting railflyer to do that, but I haven't heard good things about that company,

[ednadolski]

I've been trying to think thru some ideas for doing handrails and some additional details as well.   For example the alternating radiator grilles on the Kato C44-9W, as well as the BNSF style cab windows.

Another thought is maybe some kind of complete kit that could do a whole loco -- perhaps even with a coupler pocket that fits the FT coupler...

That said, I wish I had a better idea of how long it might take me to get around to it....   :sheepish:

Ed