TheRailwire
General Discussion => Weathering, Detailing, and Scratchbuilding => Topic started by: BCR751 on December 22, 2016, 07:28:38 PM
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Has anyone figured out how to get the effect of the black rubber gasket that surrounds windows without it looking like crap? I've tried all sorts of methods and I just can't get it to look good. Attached is a prototype photo showing what I need to achieve.
Doug
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/734/31696618861_4315caa72f_z.jpg)
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I've had some luck using decal stripes, though it takes a bit pf patience to work the stripes around the corners of the windows:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_UkEb99nBa-cYOfWuxfrRhcqRVJw8ALo-8lJ5p-TFFt8xEETZkjeL1hqHk9778uBWzwOQfDJkFxZutSzdFdASg2Xy2ATSHlOtJu-mw=w5120-h3200-no)
Some further details may be found in this old thread (https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=20650.0).
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I've done something like that on the custom-painted Atlas/Kato RS-3. That was about 20 years ago and I think I just painted the body color (AcuPaint) then I took some Floquil engine Black on a small paint brush and I put it in the window opening then slightly ran it around the window opening. Some of the paint ended up on the gasket molding.
[attachimg=1]
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Mircoscale makes the decals you want in HO scale. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=87-1343 The only thing they make in N, which you could cut to fit is this.http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=60-1423&Category_Code=
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Mircoscale makes the decals you want in HO scale. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=87-1343 The only thing they make in N, which you could cut to fit is this.http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=60-1423&Category_Code=
I see both of those decals are available in N-Scale. Thanks for posting that. I will have to cut-to-fit because the windows on the loco I need to do are more oddly shaped than the ones I showed at the beginning of this thread.
Doug
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Doug
Mircoscale announced but never released 60-1343
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Doug
Mircoscale announced but never released 60-1343
BALLS !! I saw it listed as "available" on the HO page and assumed it was. I put it in the search engine and it is definitely "unavailable at this time".
I will try and make the passenger car set do what I need.
Doug
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Doug,
What I have done with great results is to use a Sharpie. I took one of the large chisel tip Sharpies and cut it down to a small chisel tip with a #11 E-Acto blade. Then I just very gently drew it across the raised window edge.
Jon
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Doug,
What I have done with great results is to use a Sharpie. I took one of the large chisel tip Sharpies and cut it down to a small chisel tip with a #11 E-Acto blade. Then I just very gently drew it across the raised window edge.
Jon
Just make sure not to over-spray the model with Dullcote or any other organic-solvent-based clear after that - it will make the Sharpie ink run!
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Anything I've seen with a Sharpie looks dark purple and not black, unless you use it on paper.
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While we are talking windshields. I thought I saw somewhere someone masked the windshield wiper area and sprayed Tamiya Pearl White. It look pretty good. Anyone try this?
also: might even work in n scale vehicles windows
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While we are talking windshields. I thought I saw somewhere someone masked the windshield wiper area and sprayed Tamiya Pearl White. It look pretty good. Anyone try this?
About 20 years ago I tinted the windows of the first run of Bachmann Amfleets using automotive window tint. It worked great for that application. I still have that roll of tint in my workshop.
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A small brush and a shot of booze does the trick.
Or, alternately, I've liked the super fine markers. I forget the brand, but they look like this:
http://www.sharpie.com/en-US/ultra-fine-point-permanent-marker-sp-00067--1
The important thing is being able to "try again" if you blow it the first time. Hence the alcohol... yeah, that's the reason.
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A small brush and a shot of booze does the trick.
Or, alternately, I've liked the super fine markers. I forget the brand, but they look like this:
http://www.sharpie.com/en-US/ultra-fine-point-permanent-marker-sp-00067--1
The important thing is being able to "try again" if you blow it the first time. Hence the alcohol... yeah, that's the reason.
Sure it is...... :D
It's been my experience that the Sharpie does look more purple than black so I think I'll stay away from that method. After the XMAS gong show at the post office is over, I'll order that passenger car decal set from Microscale and try that out. If that also fails, I guess it's back to the black paint and small/tiny paint brush. And here, Ed, is where that shot of booze may come in handy. :D
Doug
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I've done something similar on passenger car windows, so it might work for locomotive windows as well. I use a Sharpie *paint* pen, which are available at art and craft stores. For the windows in the photos, I used a medium tip pen, which is pretty large relative to the size of the windows. The idea is to draw around the outside of the window, but for the tip to be large enough to contact the outer edge of the window, leaving behind just a thin line of paint around the pane.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
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Chris brings up a good point - the technique will depend on whether the gasket is molder with the window (as a clear part) or with the shell (as a part of the window opening). On my Atlas RS-3 which I mentioned earlier the gasket was part of the shell.
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Believe it or not, there are pens out there other than the Sharpie brand. I haven't used a Sharpie before to put a black gasket around N-scale windows, but I have used "art" pens and calligraphy pens, which use permanent, non-fading India Ink in them. No purpleness at all using these pens, and the ink does not run under Dullcote.
Buy 'em at Michael's or Hobby Lobby...or order from Dick Blick.
Try it, you'll like it....
Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore