-
I keep thinking that Kato has a perfectly good 4-6-2 mechanism to use under a K4s. I'm thinking of getting a hold of one of their JNR C-50 models and using it with the GHQ L1s kit. If it was made to fit a Kato mechanism I'm thinking it might go together.
Has anybody tried it yet?
Stupid question...If PRR doesn't sell than WHY are there so many GG1 models?
Regards,
Frank Musick
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It's been done, although everyone pretty much uses the Kato C55 instead of the C50. Maybe that's what you meant since the C50 is a 2-6-0 not a 4-6-2. Both mike_lawyer and victor miranda have done it. There are several long threads on the Atlas RR forum about the conversion which, IIRC, was first proposed by a member there going by the name of EBIT.
The Atlas board is closed to new posts but you can still do searches.
For example a search on "K4 c55 kato" produces this link, among others:
Kato JNR C55 4-6-2 RE-RUN (http://forum.atlasrr.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=62912)
Some playing with the search terms may find other threads. If you find one you like you can save it by clicking the "Printer Friendly" link and saving to a PDF file (if you have that capability). I've done that with a number of interesting threads.
Some of the relevant posts my have been archived, finding them is a bit tougher as the search times out. They have set a fairly short timeout period on the thread database so you have to do some playing to narrow or widen the search to get some data returned before things time out.
I know there were relevant posts on Railwire, but my searches here did not find them. You may have to play with search criteria.
Currently Kato C55's are available on the Plaza Japan Ebay store and at MBKlein's www.modeltrainstuff.com site.
John H. Reinhardt
Update:
Looking at EBIT's profile on the Atlas board lets you look at all his unarchived posts. This leads to
Bigger pic's for PRR K4 kitbashing-many pics!! (http://forum.atlasrr.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=67334) and the reminder in the thread that his article about using the Kato C55 for a PRR K4 is in the NTrak Steam Locomotive book for 2007 (and if steam and conversions interest you , you should have this original 2006 plus the addendums for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and when it comes out 2012).
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I went to the threads you recommended. Until I saw this photo I didn't realize how good the Trix shell could look
(http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL783/4063682/15589004/355472344.jpg)
It might be the drivers, but my Trix K4s really doesn't capture the "K4sness".
I totally agree with some of the statements posted. If Kato already has the mechanism, they should go for a K4...I would think it would sell as well as the GG1.
Kato should read these threads we keep posting.
Frank.
edit - fixed image tag, gfh.
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I will post my pictures from my K4 kitbash using a Kato C55 mechanism. The only difficulty is that there is some milling of the frame that is required to fit the Minitrix shell over the chassis.
I am in the process of securing a Trix tender shell to finish the kitbash. I remotored with a Faulhaber coreless 1016 motor with a 4:1 gearhead. This lowers the top speed to a reasonable level and provides a very smooth mechanism.
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The Trix K4 shell is a beauty. The shortcoming, at least after you fix the tender pickups and put a good motor/gears in it, is the drivers. They have huge flanges, which requires them to be a little too small in diameter (after you grind
off the flanges) and requires them to be spaced a little too far apart. The Kato c55 drivers are much nicer, as is the valve gear.
For a long time, there were no c55's to be had, so the Trix mechanism was the only choice.
In spite of the driver spacing, the Trix can make a decent K4. This was the final one I did before I moved on to other things... the
inter-driver gears are gone and the flanges are turned down, which helps the look a lot.
(http://www.maxcowonline.com/photohost/trixk4revisited/5_gearlessK4.jpg)
These days, with c55's available, that certainly looks like the best way to go (unless you want to do it more economically, and you've got
some Trix engines in a drawer gathering dust!)
-
With extra details the Trix shell is tops. So is the tender shell when detailed. EBIT also filled in the tender snap holes nicely. Here is mine- repowered trix mech without turned flanges (agree with Max but there are many solutions to improving the trix mech). I need to take some better pics of the loco one of these days. I also love Max's lowered tender.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4135/4873108629_1c44a6318f_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4074/4873720556_e87517e2dd_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4099/4873108257_d03b512668_b.jpg)
-
Max -
How did you improve the electrical pickup for the tender? I'm wondering if it is even worth fooling with the original tender, and instead put the shell on a Bachmann spectrum tender.
-
Hmmm, that's given me an idea.....What are the driver diameter and driver center spacing on the c55?
Thanks, Otto K.
-
Max -
How did you improve the electrical pickup for the tender? I'm wondering if it is even worth fooling with the original tender, and instead put the shell on a Bachmann spectrum tender.
I put Kato or Spectrum trucks under the Trix tender. I ream out slots in the tender floor so the truck tangs can protrude up into the inside,
then I solder SuperFlex wires directly to the tabs, and route them forward, hard soldered to the motor. I just curve then between
the engine and tender so they look like air or water lines. You could use a Spectrum tender chassis, and make the
K4 shell fit on top of it, I *think*. I have never tried to see how well that fits.
The Trix tender shell is as lovely as the boiler shell, so I would not want to give that up in favor of the Bachmann
USRA style tender body.
-
You guys have me take a second look at the Trix K4 I have. The driver spacing takes away from the model. The real K4 drivers are so close together it looks like there should be no room for the brake shoes.
(http://home.comcast.net/~kelticsylk/pwpimages/K4s.jpg)
I did turn down the flanges, but that makes the driver spacing even worse. I also had problems with the motor and apparently the pilot broke off.
I did notice today that the superstructures of my Trix K4 and my GHQ L1 look almost identical. Since the real locomotives both used the same boiler this makes sense. What struck me, however, was the fact that two different manufacturers would match so closely.
Anyway, after looking closer I agree with you. Now if only I can find a C-55 I can afford. Does Kato sell just the mechanism?
Frank
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Only the driver spacing bothers you?
the lowest price I have found for the Kato C55 is at modeltrainstuff
and they want 108-ish
I have to tell you that a good looking k4s is not easy or cheap
the project will take up a lotta 5 and 10 dollar parts.
assuming you can find them....
or you make a lot of parts.
I wanted a good runner the Kato chassis got me that...
with a kato mike tender in tow.
I spent money on mike cylinders in addition to making the pilot truck
look carefully at EBI's K4. It is quite handsome.
you like the KW truck? how about the kiesel tender trucks?
My k4 has the same flaws .... and a few more.
I was after a simple and easy to do improvements.
I can't claim a cheaper path is possible.
the price of the k4 shell and the c55 from kato is about as low as it can be done.
the tender trucks with the c55 are a lot like curved dolphin trucks.
Frankly, the trix k4 is not a bad model. the best and cheapest improvement
is to add all wheel cone and axle point pick-up tender trucks.
...from the more recent b-mann tenders....
not an option when I made my bash.
Add those trucks and wire it up, clean and lube, and you will have a loco you like.
victor
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Here's my work so far using a Kato C55 mechanism....I need to add a Trix tender. I was lucky and picked up a used C55 on the bay for $50.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Cme8X551EpE/UGo5-0ngAOI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/RL-np23SGi0/s512/dscn2024.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z7awpLLBFmI/UGo6A0LmKwI/AAAAAAAAAIY/4WYM7DlU9g4/s512/dscn2025.jpg)
This photo shows how I remotored the unit. I mounted the stock worm directly onto a Faulhaber 1016 with an 8 mm 4:1 gearhead. This thing will crawl along a tie at a time, and top speed is around 80-90 mph:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HjnGsMBgOyc/UGo6BHinwMI/AAAAAAAAAIg/icNCj7LQNi0/s512/dscn2026.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9RB_ypHPnC0/UGo6BTMD2nI/AAAAAAAAAIk/4SdKEjUj6P4/s512/dscn2027.jpg)
-
After looking at a real C55 conversion I'm having second thoughts. The obvious reason for doing this is to get better operation, as it doesn't seem to add much to the loco's appearance.
Think I will try the less expensive route. I'll attempt a repowering of my Trix and see what I get.
Frank
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I guess it is in the eyes of the beholder.
To me, the difference between Minitrix and Kato driver size and spacing makes a huge visual difference! :|
-
I have to agree, I see a huge difference in favor of the Kato. To me, driver size and spacing are the very essence of steam locomotive design, it's the bones on which everything else is built. We can fudge a lot of things, but the drivers have got to look and feel right, even though they are virtually always, of necessity, undersized.
Which brings me to a question I asked before on this thread to no avail; what are the c55 driver size and spacing dimensions pls.?
Thanks in advance, Otto
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I have to agree, I see a huge difference in favor of the Kato. To me, driver size and spacing are the very essence of steam locomotive design, it's the bones on which everything else is built. We can fudge a lot of things, but the drivers have got to look and feel right, even though they are virtually always, of necessity, undersized.
Which brings me to a question I asked before on this thread to no avail; what are the c55 driver size and spacing dimensions pls.?
Thanks in advance, Otto
I dont have one but here is what I found on driver size
The driver diameter:
Kato JNR C55: 11.8 mm
-
The valve gear and the overall mechanism are much improved on the Kato C55. I would definitely recommend using it as a platform instead of the Minitrix. The Minitrix is not bad, just the Kato is better.
-
I will take a more close-up picture of the drivers and valve gear over the weekend.
-
Thanks guys!
Hey, Jason, I didn't know you knew metric in Texas :D
11.8mm works out to about 74.33"... still a bit on the small size...
Regards, Otto
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there are three plastic c55. two by microace and none of them are the same dimensions.
this is from the Kato c55, the one recomended for this conversion/.
my calipers got 12.02 mm
the flanges are bigger. (from memory they are 25 thous.)
so the flange diameter is 13.2mm... (I did not measure it again tonight.)
and the driver spacing seems to be 14mm.
the flange is bigger that 80 scale inches and the tread is smaller by a similar amount under.
by most n-scale standards. it is an 80 inch driver.
victor
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Guys...
When I say it doesn't add much to the loco's appearance this is what I mean...
(http://home.comcast.net/~kelticsylk/pwpimages/K4Wheels.jpg)
The top half of the picture is Mike's K4 with the angle changed to match the angle of the real K4 on the bottom half. The K4 drivers are almost on top of one another. It's very compact and adds to the kinda powerful businesslike look of the locomotive. To me neither the C55 nor the Trix mechanism looks K4ish. Either way I have to deal with the limitations of whats available...I'll opt for the cheaper option.
Frank
P.S. Sorry Guys, I used the wrong picture the first time I posted and didn't check the preview.
-
I am seeing a nice k4 on a paper turntable?
-
As Victor points out, you ain't going to get a true 80" driver in N Scale.
A .015" flange, which is mighty aggressive for an engine, is 2.4 scale inches. So even with such a super-fine
flange, you are going to add a scale 4.8" to your wheel diameter. Hence, an 80" driver will look like 85"
because of the flanges, and this is being kind. A more realistic .022" flange would add 7".
So if you get within 5", that's about the best you are going to do.
The real problem with the Trix drivers isn't their diameter. It's their spacing.
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Otto, EBIT measured those for me on the Atlas Fourm once. I'll see if I can find the thread and edit this post...
-
I quoted Ebits measurements
EBIT
Posted - 2010 November 09 : 01:41:58 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pdesigndavidson,
Looks like you are confusing "the MicroAce Manchurian RR Pashina" with "the MicroAce JNR C55"
because this thread was stared about "the Kato JNR C55".
Let me make a simple answer to prevent any confusion.
The driver diameters are
Kato JNR C55 to be released in February : 11.8 mm
MicroAce JNR C55 : 10.8 mm
MicroAce Manchurian RR Pashina : 13.3 mm
I hope that you understand them but please let me know if you have any more question.
Ebi
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I didn't even see that there was a second page on the thread!! Sheesh.. :facepalm:
-
BTW
I dont know if there will be any real interest in a K4 casting. But I will do that next, it might save some from having to buy a Trix and a c55. Besides the body should be nicer than a stock trix. What do you think?
Oh and-
Price will be less than the T1.
-
BTW
I dont know if there will be any real interest in a K4 casting. But I will do that next, it might save some from having to buy a Trix and a c55. Besides the body should be nicer than a stock trix. What do you think?
Oh and-
Price will be less than the T1.
Specifically for the Kato mech? Might be. I've got my brass but if you can make it nice enough and have it ready to drop on a reliable mech, I'm maybe in for another.
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I am not sure I'd try for a replacement shell, in that the shell
on the minitrix is not objectionable.
non-working k4s with shells rarely go for more than 40 on the bay
most times 30.
the trix has other appearance issues like the steam chest
and the trailing truck and the tender trucks.
It would be nice to have a slat pilot that can accept a
microtrains coupler of one sort or another.
the problem is that the c55 conversion needs more than a shell,
it uses a lot of the parts of the entire k4.
If you want to get overrun, make a PRR h8/9/10 shell to clap over
the spectrum 2-8-0.
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If you want to get overrun, make a PRR h8/9/10 shell to clap over
the spectrum 2-8-0.
THIS.
It's crossed my mind more than once to do this and make castings.
-
BTW
I dont know if there will be any real interest in a K4 casting. But I will do that next, it might save some from having to buy a Trix and a c55. Besides the body should be nicer than a stock trix. What do you think?
Oh and-
Price will be less than the T1.
Jason,
Please do it...PLEASE!!!...Not for me (I'm waiting for your FEF-1 shell), but for the sake of everybody who has to listen to all the SPF's lamenting the lack of a K4 in N-scale!! :ashat:
JUST KIDDING!!!
-
If you want to get overrun, make a PRR h8/9/10 shell to clap over
the spectrum 2-8-0.
+2
I have 2 spectrum 2-8-0's waiting for an H8/9/10 shell. Getting this casting would save me the time/trouble of cutting up the extra Trix B6 and K4 shells I have to make this conversion.
Scott
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Funny Robert!
If someone wants to make an H8/9/10, I will gladly cast the boiler and provide additional shells and any other casting.
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I vote for the H10/9 shell. The Trix shell is well-detailed and just fine for a K4. My only "beef" with the shell is that the smokebox is too small in diameter (pun intended). The K4 should have a huskier look from the front.
The H10/9 shell for a Bachmann 2-8-0 is something that is really needed.
Back to the K4 for a minute with a Kato C55 mechanism. There are four items that you need for the conversion in addition to the chassis:
1. K4 shell
2. Trix Pilot
3. Trix tender shell
4. GHQ PRR trailing truck castings - some people use the Trix trailing truck for this conversion. I just used the stock trailing truck and added the GHQ castings I had left over from my I1 conversion.
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A...Please see the "corrected" picture on my previous reply. It really shows what I meant!
B...I agree with Dave and the other guys. If the Trix shell works (it is really close in appearance to the GHQ casting) then the H class would probably get a better response. The only other I could think of would be the loco's with the long Belpaire firebox like the M1 (does the I1 have the same boiler?).
Frank
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M1 with a long Belpaire firebox is also needed. Otherwise, you have to splice two Trix shells together.
-
M1 with a long Belpaire firebox is also needed. Otherwise, you have to splice two Trix shells together.
+2 for this also.
I have 3 B-mann 4-8-2's and whatever Trix K4 shells leftover from the H9/H10 project lined up for this project.
Scott
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c55 /trix project. one day I will paint it.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/kv-ironworks/pacific/100_0184.jpg)
-
c55 /trix project. one day I will paint it.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c301/kv-ironworks/pacific/100_0184.jpg)
Now that see the C55 mech straight from the side is does look more like a K4 to me. I guess it was the angle of Mike's picture. Those drivers look just right.
I think I'll still be re-powering the Trix. The chances of finding a used (and cheap) C55 on E-Bay must be zilch.
One thing I would like on mine is the heavier cast pilot, What year did they appear?
(http://recollectionsofplay.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/prr-train.jpg)
-
eeew....
I hate them cast steel pilots. the slat pilots are much more handsome.
I think the cast pilots are a late 30's thing. though I may be thinking of streamlining...
I think I read that PRR liked them, adding some weight and balance
and improved engine protection.
and Pennsy Power says cast pilots are a post war treatment.
I should do my looking-up before I do my writing.
One of the things I did was move the cylinders back a little,so the top could move back a touch.
it helps.
victor
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Well here are the K4 Castings I have finished. My intent is to install on the Kato C55-
(http://imageshack.us/a/img191/168/k44e.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img502/2671/k45l.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img339/4244/k43p.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img22/2073/k47mj.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img197/7842/k41.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img26/223/k46l.jpg)
-Jason Smith
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Very nice!
-
Outstanding. Are you making extras available for sale or just fortifying your steam roster?
-
Outstanding. Are you making extras available for sale or just fortifying your steam roster?
Both!!
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THAT is unbelievable! Please, please do an H10 next!!!
And then an M1 for the Bachmann 4-8-2!
-
You're casting techniques are remarkable.
-
Those castings are remarkable. The detail and relief are excellent.
The best part is (I hope) that the SPF moaning about K4s may actually be over. What topic will fill the gap- the mysterious -2 project?
-
Both!!
I'm in for one.
-
I hear the sound of c55's being snapped up...
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Superturbine, another nice copy. Are you planning on casting the inside of the shell then? I have too many trix shells to use up...
-
What do you mean "inside of the shell" ?
-
Awesome. Do you some magic machine in your garage?...You turn these things out awful fast.
Frank
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I could go for a few M1 for the 4-8-2 bachmann and someH10 and some PRR coast to coast tenders. All I can say is WOW keep up the great work. Rich[
[/quote]
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Those are incredible. I've got several Minitrix K4's waiting for upgrades, but I may have to look into getting one of these on a C55.
I'll echo the requests for H10 and M1 shells for the Bachmann mechanisms. With the GHQ L1 kits and the B6 shells that I'm still working on marrying to the Bachmann 0-6-0, about the only thing that I would be missing would be an I1sa. Would Bachmann's 2-10-0 work for the mechanism for that?
-
(http://imageshack.us/a/img502/2671/k45l.jpg)
WOW Jason, you got it done faster then I was expecting !
Another great casting from the "Master" ---------------- :D
Looks great, gonna be another nice addition to my collection as well.
Ernie
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Jason,
Very, very nice casting. May I have one, please? I can send you a PayPal deposit, if you send me an email with estimates on cost and timing.
Victor,
It's good to see your contributions to us forumers, again. I followed many of your posts on the Atlas forum. Question: On your Trix/C55 K4, which trailing truck did you use?
My meager contribution to this thread: My Trix/C55 hybrid uses a TCS Z2 decoder, located inside the loco shell, in the smokebox. i would attach a photo, but this forum's rules apparently don't allow me to. The decoder's programming function allows the top speed to be limited.
Jim Hale
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Those are incredible. I've got several Minitrix K4's waiting for upgrades, but I may have to look into getting one of these on a C55.
I'll echo the requests for H10 and M1 shells for the Bachmann mechanisms. With the GHQ L1 kits and the B6 shells that I'm still working on marrying to the Bachmann 0-6-0, about the only thing that I would be missing would be an I1sa. Would Bachmann's 2-10-0 work for the mechanism for that?
Eric,
Bachmann never did the 2-10-0. I wonder if you could lop off the tail end of their 2-10-2, though...
-
Hi nscaleSPF2,
Kato Mike trailing truck...
mike cylinders and tender
and a micro trains pilot.
victor
-
First the T1 and now this... Mr. Wallet is beginning to hear a giant sucking sound coming from the direction of the PRR shells. If this continues with an M1 and/or H9/H10, the sound will be deafening.
Anyway, based on the photos these shells are simply amazing. I have a few questions:
Are the K4 shells available for sale yet?
Estimated cost?
Are there any T1 shells still available?
I did not see a pilot for the K4.
Did you make a casting for a pilot?
Which pilot did you make (older slat style or newer cast style)?
I would be interested in M1 or H9/H10 shells if they were available.
I guess I'll be looking for Kato C55's at Trainfest in a few weeks...
Thanks,
Scotts
-
Those are incredible castings!
Looking at the latest photos from Jason (the casting in the raw) I thing that now I see how he casts all those fine details. He uses a 2-piece mold with the parting line around all the free-standing details. But I'm still not sure why those castings have to be solid. That creates a lot of extra work to make the casting usable (not to mention lots of wasted resin). I'm wondering why couldn't the mold be made with a plug to make the casting hollow. I'm not trying to put down Jason's excellent handywork - I'm simply curious.
-
Those are incredible castings!
Looking at the latest photos from Jason (the casting in the raw) I thing that now I see how he casts all those fine details. He uses a 2-piece mold with the parting line around all the free-standing details. But I'm still not sure why those castings have to be solid. That creates a lot of extra work to make the casting usable (not to mention lots of wasted resin). I'm wondering why couldn't the mold be made with a plug to make the casting hollow. I'm not trying to put down Jason's excellent handywork - I'm simply curious.
Interesting thought!
As far as the casting cost and availability- I think they will be about $85.00 which includes shipping.
-They should be ready in a week. I will keep track of those of you who have replied on this tread and PM you when ready. I will be test fitting to my C55 first so I have a little more work to go.
-
I was thinking of selling my boat and throwing the proceeds towards this hobby. Now I'm REALLY thinking of selling my boat!
Off to place an ad on Craigslist.
Frank
-
Jason, you've done all the SPF's a great service. If they're correct in their assertions, you should make a goodly profit from this. As has been said before, your castings are incredible! They simply scream PENNSY!! :D
-
Hi superturbine.
I believe you will need to do the kw-trailing truck and it would not hurt to do the tender trucks.
then you have a servicable k4 kit.
victor
-
Hey guys...I was looking through some old threads and found this...
http://www.e-katomodels2.com/shop/c/c100802/
My Google Chrome translates the page automatically, I don't know about other browsers.
Although the C55 "power unit" is not listed, it would make more sense to buy the part instead of the entire locomotive, especially since we are going to toss most of it in the trash.
It's definitely cheaper. The C51 power unit, for example, cost about $45. A tender only cost about $9.
I guess in a pinch you could use the C57 part and fill in the holes to represent disc drivers like these...
(http://prrsteam.pennsyrr.com/images/prr5484.jpg)
Frank
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Eric,
Bachmann never did the 2-10-0. I wonder if you could lop off the tail end of their 2-10-2, though...
Ah yes, you are correct. What I stumbled on was a page on BLW advertising them, but I failed to take notice of the "cancelled" status.
What about Trix's current European stuff? It's not cheap, but they do make a decapod or two. Granted they come with red wheels, but that can be remedied.
-
That's really good, Jason!
I see tremendous potential in this for a lot more than just whole loco shells.
Smokebox fronts, cabs, truck sideframes, all sorts of things that are impossible to make buy hand.
-
Fleischmann made several locos (with 2-10-0 among them) with black colored drivers.
-
What do you mean "inside of the shell" ?
Hi Jason, kind of along Peteski's comment, I mean are you going to make an inner form to represent the C55 mech and THEN cast the shell around it for less interior milling?
-
That is simply amazing work!
The sad thing for me is that I am almost finished with my K4 conversion using a Minitrix shell! I would be interested in your tender casting, though. What would the price for that be?
Mike
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One note about the Kato C55 - there is a lot of milling that you have to do to fit the Minitrix shell over the mechanism. Just keep that in mind.
-
Thanks for the information, Victor. You are too kind.
Gentlemen, we may be witnessing a new phase in N scale modeling. If talented people like Jason are willing to take the time to help others, then the whole hobby will benefit.
-
Thanks for all of the overly kind comments guys. I have the boiler mounted on the c55 mech with no cutting to the frame required. The only problem is that the motor has to be moved back in the frame to properly fit in the cab and the motor sticks out of the back of the cab ( the motor is short and fat) It's not too bad although a little disappointing to loose detail at the back of the cab. The linkage has been made with the rubber plastic coupling material. I talked to max this afternoon in regards other motors available to save details at the back of the cab. The good news it that the boiler will fit with no frame milling. Don't get me wrong the casting still looks good installed. I will post pics tonight.
-
Jason -
For my C55 conversion, I worked with Eldon (the Motorman) to come up with a good solution to the motor problem. As-is, the motor runs very fast. I would estimate the top speed to be about 200 mph with the stock motor.
I purchased a Faulhaber 1016 coreless with an 8mm gearhead, then mounted the worm to the motor shaft. The motor does not stick out of the back of the Minitrix shell, and with a good decoder, the loco will creep along and have a top speed of about 80-100 mph.
I highly recommend this upgrade. There is some frame milling that is required around the area where the rubber motor linkage is located stock.
-
Ok, Cool! That is what I will do on my engine, but I will also make the casting able to accept the stock mech with stock motor for those who do not want to take-on milling the frame and buying a new motor.
Thanks for the info Mike, I was not sure which motor I would use.
-
Well here is a mock-up of the boiler on a unmodified Kato C55 frame. As you can see the motor mounting location has to be moved back slightly to actually fit in the cab.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img716/5816/k48vs.jpg)
Of Note: The primer used on this engine was out of the "CAN" thick primer the boiler is much smoother than shown. Also the front headlight was removed to test fit LED's
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Looking very good!
I see a few minor things that I'm interested to see how you resolve. Are you making the steam pipes over the cylinders out of styrene? Also, are you planning to replace the pilot wheels or fill in the spoke-holes with something?
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use kato Mike cylinders, move them back. use the kato mike conecting rod
replace the pilot truck and use 33 or 28 inch wheels
the mechanism can move forward.... maybe a 16th inch. it makes a lot of overall difference.
Kato makes one motor that is shorter. it can be made to fit.
the one from the 4 wheel trolley.
what ya going to use as the trailing truck?
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I need to get my pictures straight, and then I will post them.
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Jason -
One thing that I had to do with the Minitrix shell is to file off some of the piping detail where the reverse linkage is located. Otherwise, the shell would not sit down enough on the frame. I don't know if your casting will have that same problem, but it is something to thing about.
For the trailing truck on my kitbash, I had a leftover casting from the GHQ conversion kit that I attached to the stock trailing truck.
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Jason,
Anything new on this proejct? Did you make a casting for the trailing truck? I purchase a Kato C55 2012 to convert to a PRR K4. I have several Minitrix shells, but I am interested in your casting. It will be a bit more work to complete, but I think the results will be worth the effort.
Regards,
Scott
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Sorry about the delay. I have four young children and the Holidays get busy. I will try to finish the castings soon and I will get you one. I do not have a trailing truck yet but should have that done soon also.
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My question is how many of you are buying one. After all, the K4 will outsell any other steam engine on the market. Sure seems quiet in here now that a K4 is somewhat readily available...........................
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I was kind of thinking the same thing... :facepalm:
BTW, that casting is super! Great detail.
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My question is how many of you are buying one. After all, the K4 will outsell any other steam engine on the market. Sure seems quiet in here now that a K4 is somewhat readily available...........................
oh but how much work and final cost?
my c55 conversion was about 250 dollars
edit to fix I meant 205 dollars
you price may vary...
victor
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I'm still in for one kit.
Jim
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oh but how much work and final cost?
my c55 conversion was about 250 dollars
edit to fix I meant 205 dollars
you price may vary...
victor
but a readily available model like the BLI was listed for how much? Honestly, this is cheaper with a C55 chassis. Victor, i respect you but wheres the long lines of buyers? All of you jumped on the bandwagon when other steamers that werent K4s came to fruition so i would figure you all would be chomping at the bit for numerous models of this. Hell i figured everyone would need 3 or 4 of these.
All i hear is crickets. lol!!!
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I will be making my own K-4s. But most people are more incline to get one or several if the K-4 was RTR. Rich
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but a readily available model like the BLI was listed for how much? Honestly, this is cheaper with a C55 chassis. Victor, i respect you but wheres the long lines of buyers? All of you jumped on the bandwagon when other steamers that werent K4s came to fruition so i would figure you all would be chomping at the bit for numerous models of this. Hell i figured everyone would need 3 or 4 of these.
All i hear is crickets. lol!!!
hi draskouasshat,
well, I am not sure what you are not hearing....
right now you can buy a minitrix k4 and spend about 50 ish bucks.
and you can find a precision scale k4 of various types for 250 plus bucks.
with one on the bay right now for 799.99?
in theory those are ready to run.
superturbine has a k4 shell for what ever price he feels is good
and one must find a kato c55.
that leaves two or three problems
you will have to find a kw trailing truck and make a pilot truck
and get a tender behind it.
you are wondering why there is no crowd avidly awaiting an incomplete kit?
or are you wondering why there is no crowd looking to pay about 200 dollars for that incomplete kit?
or are you wondering why there is no crowd willing to put a kato c55 under a minitrix k4 shell?
this last option has the best chance of being complete and you will have a loco
that looks a lot like a minitrix k4 for your efforts.
now I have to admit that I like kits that are complete, or that are easy to complete by buying
an available part or assembly.... I do not see that going on here.
Last and not least is that there are in N-scale relatively few kit builders.
Right now I have a PRR T1 shell, I consider it to be a treasure hunt.
It will be expensive by the time I am done.
the same is true for any of the offerings here.
getting a complete kit for a updated/improved/modernized K4
is going to cost more than Kato's GS-4 or the more recent b-mann offerings.
so high side pricing, extra work to fit it together, and no promise of success....
I am thinking I have no need for crowd controls.
victor
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+ 1 Victor
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hi draskouasshat,
well, I am not sure what you are not hearing....
right now you can buy a minitrix k4 and spend about 50 ish bucks.
and you can find a precision scale k4 of various types for 250 plus bucks.
with one on the bay right now for 799.99?
in theory those are ready to run.
superturbine has a k4 shell for what ever price he feels is good
and one must find a kato c55.
that leaves two or three problems
you will have to find a kw trailing truck and make a pilot truck
and get a tender behind it.
you are wondering why there is no crowd avidly awaiting an incomplete kit?
or are you wondering why there is no crowd looking to pay about 200 dollars for that incomplete kit?
or are you wondering why there is no crowd willing to put a kato c55 under a minitrix k4 shell?
this last option has the best chance of being complete and you will have a loco
that looks a lot like a minitrix k4 for your efforts.
now I have to admit that I like kits that are complete, or that are easy to complete by buying
an available part or assembly.... I do not see that going on here.
Last and not least is that there are in N-scale relatively few kit builders.
Right now I have a PRR T1 shell, I consider it to be a treasure hunt.
It will be expensive by the time I am done.
the same is true for any of the offerings here.
getting a complete kit for a updated/improved/modernized K4
is going to cost more than Kato's GS-4 or the more recent b-mann offerings.
so high side pricing, extra work to fit it together, and no promise of success....
I am thinking I have no need for crowd controls.
victor
Actually Victor, im not picking the fight with you. Just wondering where all the Pennsy modeler are that are parading around for a K4. I guess i just find it funny really that heres what will be a good running loco with great detail and of all things, a K4.
Im more just stirring the pot as its funny that none of you are all giddy and jumping all over the place. Ive built many a loco from complete scratch myself for what i model and still do so. This really isnt a poke at you, just the overall K4 craze and the lack of interest here be it a kit or not.
But comparing apples to apples, im pretty sure the FEF and Santa fe northerns have far exceeded the K4 in interest and future sales. Thats what i was getting to. Im glad you explained all the fancy cool stuff about kits and putting things together. Im just pointing out the silence now that the Pennsy fans could have what they wanted. I guess more than anything, its just irritating seeing people want something so bad yet not have the ambition to even try building what they want. Sure everyone wants RTR but its never going to be that easy. lol
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"But comparing apples to apples, im pretty sure the FEF and Santa fe northerns have far exceeded the K4 in interest and future sales". How can you compare apples to apples when the last Plastic RTR k-4 was made by Minitrix Introduced 1970 discontinued 1999 with 40 year old tooling. Most people want RTR models now of days a lot of people are collectors or just buyers. Rich
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Hey, I already built one Minitrix/C55 K4. It runs well, and looks ok. But I want something that looks a little closer to the prototype, and don't want to spend the money for a brass K4 that will probably need to be "tuned" to run properly. Jason, are you listening?
(Sorry, I don't want this to sound so heavy-handed.)
Jim
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"But comparing apples to apples, im pretty sure the FEF and Santa fe northerns have far exceeded the K4 in interest and future sales". How can you compare apples to apples when the last Plastic RTR k-4 was made by Minitrix Introduced 1970 discontinued 1999 with 40 year old tooling. Most people want RTR models now of days a lot of people are collectors or just buyers. Rich
Ahh youre finally getting the picture. When was the last plastic FEF or Santa fe northern? Oh wait, there is no FEF and the Bachmann northern is our only other option with its 40 year old tooling. You guys just dont get it. Im basing true facts on what jason actually sold before of the northerns and FEFs. Thats apples to apples pal.
Oh and wed all love a plastic cheap RTR great detailed models. I wouldnt think you guys would be so picky!!!!!
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Actually Victor, im not picking the fight with you. Just wondering where all the Pennsy modeler are that are parading around for a K4. I guess i just find it funny really that heres what will be a good running loco with great detail and of all things, a K4.
Im more just stirring the pot as its funny that none of you are all giddy and jumping all over the place. Ive built many a loco from complete scratch myself for what i model and still do so. This really isnt a poke at you, just the overall K4 craze and the lack of interest here be it a kit or not.
But comparing apples to apples, im pretty sure the FEF and Santa fe northerns have far exceeded the K4 in interest and future sales. Thats what i was getting to. Im glad you explained all the fancy cool stuff about kits and putting things together. Im just pointing out the silence now that the Pennsy fans could have what they wanted. I guess more than anything, its just irritating seeing people want something so bad yet not have the ambition to even try building what they want. Sure everyone wants RTR but its never going to be that easy. lol
I don't think you are getting it. The people clamoring for a K4, are the ones that want it RTR. They will not take the time to build their own. The K4 shell fills a hole that was not empty. Anybody willing to kitbash a K4 on a better mechanism seems to be perfectly happy with the Trix K4 shell as a starting point and probably have already done it by now. It doesn't require flashing cleanup, delicate care and handling that resin demands, and is considerably cheaper and easy to come by. The Trix K4 works fine for those willing to do the work. Those willing to do the work of a conversion, are also willing to add the details missing. Those not wiling to do the work are not going to buy a more expensive, incomplete alternative to fill the same hole.
The FEF and Santa Fe Northerns were products that were only duplicated in Brass before this so they filled a void. The build is a relatively easy one using a GS-4 as a chassis source. The K4, as Victor pointed out still needs a tender, pilot and trailing truck and to boot, the motor sticks out of the back of the cab. It is a much more complex "kit" than the FEF or other Northerns.
I have great respect for Jason's castings. I am amazed how he can cast all the details onto the shell but that for me is a big drawback. It makes the loco much more delicate and much harder to paint than it needs to be. The fist thing I do to a steam loco when working on a kitbash is remove all the detail so I can replace them with either photo etch, resin or brass parts to recreate fine detail. The molded on details appear chunky and for some reason, not natural.
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Just to clear things up. This k4 casing was largely done for me, when I have it finished I will sell a few of the kits to friends. Also the minitrix shell is not accurate in many ways. So I did this casting. One thing I have come to realize is that N scale has the fewest number of modelers willing to kit bash and scratch build out of all the scales.
Also Victor is making some wrong assumptions, this kit will include the pilot, trailing truck, tender casting and other parts when finished. Also as far as a treasure hunt on the T1.... It will not be, many things are in the works as we speak. I have at least 7 parts needing to be cast for the T1. An the drive is being worken on also by N stars.
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Im more just stirring the pot as its funny that none of you are all giddy and jumping all over the place. Ive built many a loco from complete scratch myself for what i model and still do so.
The popularity of a K4 has become something of a troll topic - let's not fall into that trap again.
It's fantastic that superturbine has the energy and talent to make these shells available to the devotees. How about showing us some more of your scratch-built locos, draskouasshat? I'd much prefer that to sparring over the K4.
-gfh
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I don't think you are getting it. The people clamoring for a K4, are the ones that want it RTR. They will not take the time to build their own. The K4 shell fills a hole that was not empty. Anybody willing to kitbash a K4 on a better mechanism seems to be perfectly happy with the Trix K4 shell as a starting point and probably have already done it by now. It doesn't require flashing cleanup, delicate care and handling that resin demands, and is considerably cheaper and easy to come by. The Trix K4 works fine for those willing to do the work. Those willing to do the work of a conversion, are also willing to add the details missing. Those not wiling to do the work are not going to buy a more expensive, incomplete alternative to fill the same hole.
The FEF and Santa Fe Northerns were products that were only duplicated in Brass before this so they filled a void. The build is a relatively easy one using a GS-4 as a chassis source. The K4, as Victor pointed out still needs a tender, pilot and trailing truck and to boot, the motor sticks out of the back of the cab. It is a much more complex "kit" than the FEF or other Northerns.
I have great respect for Jason's castings. I am amazed how he can cast all the details onto the shell but that for me is a big drawback. It makes the loco much more delicate and much harder to paint than it needs to be. The fist thing I do to a steam loco when working on a kitbash is remove all the detail so I can replace them with either photo etch, resin or brass parts to recreate fine detail. The molded on details appear chunky and for some reason, not natural.
+1 Spot on, Tony.
A ton of people want a K4, but they want to buy one outta-da-box. The forums have been filled with clamoring for
Kato or Bachmann to make a K4. When Kato did the Broadway passenger set, the forum lit up with,
"What? No K4 to go with it???"
That's not the same thing at all as building one yourself from bits and pieces.
Everybody knows the formula by now:
C55 + Trix shell + GHQ parts (optionally, depending on how fine you want the details)
Jason has an alternative shell. That's great.
But neither of these fills the real void, which is for a RTR K4.
Jason is right. The number of people willing to do this kind of scratchbuilding is small. The number of people who want
a RTR K4 is the key.
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I still can't help but ask whether there would be more interesting an H-series Pennsy consolidation for the Spectrum 2-8-0.
I'd be all over this K4 if I didn't already have a nice brass one in DCC. I could use another at some point. However, my homemade H10sb is not up to visual snuff anymore and a casting of this quality is something I'd pay for.
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There is somebody over on Trainboard working on a Shapeways, H class boiler for the Bachmann Consolidation but it needs a lot of work still. The initial drawings don't look right.
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I agree with Dave Vollmer that a PRR H9/H10 or a M1 would be in more demand. Given the time period 1956-1966 and area I model PRR Northern Div. I don't really need a K-4 if I back date to the early 50s I do. Passenger trains in 1956 had E-7s or E-8s for power. I was not one of those people to say we need a K-4 I will be making my own K-4 just to have if I back-date to early 50s. I could go for a few M1 for the 4-8-2 bachmann and someH10 and some PRR coast to coast tenders. Rich
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I just checked the Trainboard thread. I'm definitely excited, but like you I'm not sure he has the contour right. Sound like he's aware and working it. The tender is spot-on as near as I can tell.
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Ill agree with tony but i do get it. If only our pipe dreams would have RTR K4s, FEFs, ATSF Northerns. I just dont agree with the PRR fans that every friggin time a new steamer comes out, the only thing they do is criticize it and say a K4 would have sold better. If youre that hard up for one, do what the rest of us "modelers" do and build it. You dont see others b!tching about not having a _________(insert western loco here) when something new comes out. I guess i just take what mechs come out and make what i want or at least attempt it. Jason has my 9000 class UP 4-12-2 and my UP E2 bubble nose and im about to send down turbine #50 for casting. I wont go into the long list of Santa Fe models ive built.
And victor, this is a whole loco with all sorts of parts, not some half arsed boiler. This will get you an as good as brass K4. Ill leave this thread alone now. Sorry for trolling. LOLOLOLOLOLOL
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I still can't help but ask whether there would be more interesting an H-series Pennsy consolidation for the Spectrum 2-8-0.
I'd love one, along with an as-built tender too. I'm really into the idea of trying to figure out how to do some 1910s PRR steam... oil headlamps and all.
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OK. I'm one of the guys clamoring for a RTR K4. Jason's casting looks great, but it wasn't something that I was on my list of wants. I have several Trix K4's that I would use for upgrading / bashing. Having a K4 casting provides another option for obtaining a boiler with better details.
I may buy a K4 casting, but since I am starting at the beginning of the learning curve, I'm not sure this would be a good idea for a first project. However, after seeing pictures of the K4 casting, I did buy a Kato C55 2012 loco with the idea of using this for Jason's K4 casting.
I would rate an H9/H10 or M1 shell higher on my list of wants since there is no readily available option like a Trix K4 and I have 2 each of Bachmann 2-8-0's and heavy 4-8-2's that I acquired with the intent to bash these into these locos. Having castings of these boilers would eliminate the need to slice and dice the Trix K4 and B6 shells that I have acquired.
I realize that I will need to make the effort to bash the H9/H10 and M1, since I'm not willing to pay the going prices on ebay unless I win the Powerball jackpot tonight.
There is a lot that I will need to learn and will probably be contacting guys like Dave Vollmer, Lemosteam, Victor and Max among others that have been there and done that to make these PPR steamers. The models they have created have inspired me to at least try.
Scott
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I'd love one, along with an as-built tender too. I'm really into the idea of trying to figure out how to do some 1910s PRR steam... oil headlamps and all.
I have to ask.... Are you also planning to get some turn-of-the-last-century rolling stock to go with? I think it would look sweet on the forested end of the shelf, but might look a bit odd rolling under the I-83 overpass. :scared:
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OK. I'm one of the guys clamoring for a RTR K4. Jason's casting looks great, but it wasn't something that I was on my list of wants. I have several Trix K4's that I would use for upgrading / bashing. Having a K4 casting provides another option for obtaining a boiler with better details.
I may buy a K4 casting, but since I am starting at the beginning of the learning curve, I'm not sure this would be a good idea for a first project. However, after seeing pictures of the K4 casting, I did buy a Kato C55 2012 loco with the idea of using this for Jason's K4 casting.
I would rate an H9/H10 or M1 shell higher on my list of wants since there is no readily available option like a Trix K4 and I have 2 each of Bachmann 2-8-0's and heavy 4-8-2's that I acquired with the intent to bash these into these locos. Having castings of these boilers would eliminate the need to slice and dice the Trix K4 and B6 shells that I have acquired.
I realize that I will need to make the effort to bash the H9/H10 and M1, since I'm not willing to pay the going prices on ebay unless I win the Powerball jackpot tonight.
There is a lot that I will need to learn and will probably be contacting guys like Dave Vollmer, Lemosteam, Victor and Max among others that have been there and done that to make these PPR steamers. The models they have created have inspired me to at least try.
Scott
I strongly encourage you to try. I was really scared about kitbashing before I made my I1 based on Max's tutorial. I made some mistakes along the way, but they were correctable and I learned from them. Just doing one kitbash increases your skills tremendously.
Mike
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superturbine your work is the best i have ever seen. you are way out of my league, i am going to try a randquest climax and see how bad i can mess it up.
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Agreed on everyone's posts here, but, and this is a big but for me, pun intended; the real reason I want a RTR unit is for the Running gear!!!
NO ONE makes a mech that comes close to a true laird slide outside of a brass unit. THATs where kit bashing breaks down for me. Even my own favorite bashes leave me heavily disappointed in this area :(.
I suppose the c55 comes close or maybe the fleischmann, but both are still annoyingly incorrect to me.
I have been waiting patiently for Superturbine to be ready and when that happens Ill be ready to jump into the project.
Mucktown128, thanks for the kind words! :)
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Can someone link me to the H-class boiler thread on TrainBoard? I'm having trouble hunting it down.
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http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?146850-My-new-Shapeways-project (http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?146850-My-new-Shapeways-project)
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Some times I want to be quiet and tinker and watch my locos roll without fuss.
the thing I understand is that fuss is required at times.
fuss is time and money and skills being applied.
Ready to Run(RTR) is just the application of money
and it follows that time and skills are at a close to non-existant.
lets use Kato's gs4 as the standard of appearance for RTR
the price is also medium for RTR.
for a hard to own model of a prototype a lot of fuss will get applied.
the n-scale world has a PRR K4s... While it is not up to current standards
it is not all that far off either.
lets face this issue with clear eyes.
why are so few kicking down super turbine's door to get his K4s kit?
for 50 dollars and 20 more for all wheel pick-up tender trucks you can have
what is considered a pretty good runner.
what I see as the issue here is where the price goes when anyone must
buy the c55 in addition to the above. (add 100?)
what happens is that you go from 70 dollars
to 170 without any improvement in appearance.
It is not hard to do, in fact it is pretty easy.
I think it is worth doing AND yet I am not willing to state
it is the best solution for everyone.
The nice part is that painting is optional.
now to the problem...
starting with superturbine's K4s shell...
(he says there will be additional castings.)
you will add the c55 for a current total of 185
and you bolt it together...
I promise the pilot wheels are oversized. those will be replaced.
is that another 5 bucks?
I guess we can glue the Kiesel sideframes onto the C55 tender trucks
and the engine trailing truck will be ok with the C55 wheel in it.
so for 190 dollars and an easy paint job
you can have a K4s with Kato reliability and Brass good looks.
two problems left... motor hanging out the back and the steam chest.
Good news! use a 20 dollar Kato motor and the Mikado cylinders! Both are still available.
The cylinders are 16 to 20 bucks and will get a few side-rods spare.
With the last 20 dollars being optional, sorta, in that the C55 steamchest will look
a lot funny on an otherwise accurate K4s.
ok now we are at 210 to 230 dollars...
and this does made the very large assumption that superturbine
will make a kit of 8 castings available for 85 dollars...
Also the assumption that the C55 wheels and trucks are suitable.
the fact is that the minitrix/c55 conversion is close to bolt together
and requires soldering skills and a hacksaw.
the better looks kit WILL cost more and WILL require more skills and time.
the 'more skills' part being the real killer in this.
I MIGHT have the skills to clean up resin castings.
I know I dislike painting and decaling....
I know I don't have a lot of time for such things,
and when I think for a LOT less time I can have the minitrix conversion....
I do not believe I am alone.
some thing recognizable as a K4 exists.
the better path there is to dress up the minitrix.
The Headlamp, the KW trailing truck and the Kiesel tender truck will do better.
there is nothing like an PRR h class in plastic, however...
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From what Ive seen Victor you fuss a lot. I am too busy building castings and engine to address much or your post. But it seems to me that if you spent a little more time trying to do something instead of fussing you would have that H class.
P.S. Do you really think I would keep the c55 steam chest or use a Kato steam chest?
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There are times when all the world's asleep
The questions run too deep for such a simple man
Won't you please, please tell me what we've learned
I know it sounds absurd but please tell me who I am
a bit of a supertramp song as I recall.
I am not at all sure why it popped into my head.
Hi superturbine,
I have always tried hard to stay out of the way of industrious people.
It was a post meant for you and I spent a long time trying to find a way to say it.
I apologize for wasting your time.
Allow me to point out that Skipgear said it much shorter...
"The K4 shell fills a hole that was not empty."
he added a much shorter explaination...
" Anybody willing to kitbash a K4 on a better
mechanism seems to be perfectly happy with the Trix K4 shell as a starting point and
probably have already done it by now."
victor
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Ah the H-Class.... Mine still lacks the B-mann 2-8-0 chassis, and as of the moment i'm broke. I have the minitrix K4 shell already cut into ints respective pieces, awaiting its final resting place...
Do what you do superturbine! You do great work, albeit questionably expensive from my point of view, but exquisite none the less.
If you want to borrow my H10sa shell once it is together, your welcome to it.
-Cody F.
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I owe my much-better running PSC K4 to Victor's ingenuity and patience. I'm not sure where the friction is coming from but you are both doing amazing things in N scale steam; I would hope you can find common ground.
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When he decides to offer something to his fellow modelers I will not be attempting to bring him down.
Gotta call you out on that one... He has. Quite often. I'm only one recipient of Victor's direct assistance.
A number of us asshats attended Victor's steam tuning clinic at the 2011 NSE convention in Harrisburg. One of the highlights of the old A-board for me were Victor's exacting reviews of new steam mechanisms and performance. He was not the only one to offer that, sure, but he added to the collective in a positive way.
You can certainly call him or anyone out on their opinion, but suggesting Victor hasn't offered something to his fellow modelers is simply untrue.
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Nope, and I can see how you would misinterpret, I did not say he has never offered anything. I said I would not give him a hard time when he does. Not sure of products he has offered in the past but there is a difference in do and review, offering a repair and providing a physical part. I actually have no hard feelings toward Victor (I am a little puzzled by his need to inform me of the supposed lack of interest in my K4 castings). The simple fact is I have had at least 10 people interested in the K4 casting. I am not yet happy with them which is why no parts have been delievered. On another note, when additional T1 (all truck and frame assembles) parts are done I will gladly send them to Victor and will be happy to see his results.
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Jason, youll never meet the standards of a "MODEL" railroader that doesnt model anything. Some just cant appreciate what goes into true modeling when they dont have the ability or ambition to do it themselves. Thats why they b!tch and moan when what they want isnt the newest latest greatest model to hit the market. Theres no use in beating a dead horse in constant need of geritol.
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I'm not into steam particularly, but I can't help but admire the excellent results of your modelling and casting efforts. This thread has made it abundantly clear to me that some folk want RTR products- let them wait then. I prefer the "can do" approach taken by those willing to invest in time, effort or collaboration for what they want. Keep up the great work- thanks for sharing!
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Gotta call you out on that one... He has. Quite often. I'm only one recipient of Victor's direct assistance.
A number of us asshats attended Victor's steam tuning clinic at the 2011 NSE convention in Harrisburg. One of the highlights of the old A-board for me were Victor's exacting reviews of new steam mechanisms and performance. He was not the only one to offer that, sure, but he added to the collective in a positive way.
You can certainly call him or anyone out on their opinion, but suggesting Victor hasn't offered something to his fellow modelers is simply untrue.
+1
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Jason, youll never meet the standards of a "MODEL" railroader that doesnt model anything. Some just cant appreciate what goes into true modeling when they dont have the ability or ambition to do it themselves. Thats why they b!tch and moan when what they want isnt the newest latest greatest model to hit the market. Theres no use in beating a dead horse in constant need of geritol.
+1
Ernie
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+1
A4 what?
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In the lastest "Cody's Office" video. Broadway Limited says the PRR H10 is their most requested locomotive ever. (in HO)
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wow.
Hi Dave Vollmer
I gotta tell you, I have no idea why I got those two responses from superturbine.
I'll puzzle on it some more.
I also must thank you for the defense.
Few people seem to understand the amounts of time and
variety of skills and re-do-it efforts that are
required to get a loco to run well.
It eats into the PRR H-10 scratch building time like you just would not believe.
One of the hidden out comes from my tinkering on your loco is that I have a much better idea
of what to do to get a PSC k4s running reliably.
I recently got a brass k4s to practice on.
*sigh* and it needs painting... dangit. oh well I guess I get to build my character.
victor
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Victor if you are in any way hurt by my defence of your attacks of building a casting for my self I am truely sorry. So, lets try a little reset. Lets see some pictures of the H-10 that you have been building. Nothing but support from me.
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I for one really appreciate the castings from Jason. They are top-notch and really fill a nitch in N-scale.
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Jason's beautiful castings and craftmanship allowed me to have not one but two models of the ATSF 3765 class engines. Will always be grateful for his work.
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/RWCJr/IMG_0001-2.jpg)
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Jason, your work is magnificent, and while I for one am not desperate for a second K4 I really would like a much better looking H10sb than the one I was able to cobble together. With deference to Victor's valid question of price point, I would in fact, be willing to spend decent coin on a boiler and tender casting for an H-class comparable in detail to your K4 and T1... The same goes for an M1a/b shell for a Bachmann heavy 4-8-2 with 6-wheel trucks if you include a KW trailing truck frame. Between your Pennsy work and the Shapeways thread on Trainboard I'm watching intently. In the meantime I have enough Trix parts to do a traditional kitbash.
The big hole is, of course, the I1 2-10-0 as was mentioned earlier.
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A4 what?
what abou it? it's done.