The First 2010 Railwire Prototype Scratchbashing Challenge - shop flats

[wm3798]

You can make the sides a tad plump, too, to give the illusion of a lower ride....

Lee

[AlkemScaleModels]

The rivet detail is the bone crusher on this one.  Maybe the clear decal trick will work like on the tread plate.
What are you using for a floor?  I assume wood planks, but perhaps steel given that this little guy is carrying a heavy load?

Lee

Try the archer decal rivets. There was a clinic at Cocoa Beach showing their use. Very impressive. The clinician was using them for master model copies for resin casting.

[Philip H]

The rivet detail is the bone crusher on this one.  Maybe the clear decal trick will work like on the tread plate.
What are you using for a floor?  I assume wood planks, but perhaps steel given that this little guy is carrying a heavy load?

Lee

Try the archer decal rivets. There was a clinic at Cocoa Beach showing their use. Very impressive. The clinician was using them for master model copies for resin casting.

Funny you should mention them Bernie - I have a sheet of their N Scale Rivets sitting on my workbench.  They are nicely priced, and after I ordered them from the Archer website they arrived three days later.  While I had hoped to do this one entirely out of the scrap box,like the Critter, I am willing to part with a few coins to try this out.

Did the clinic give any good tips for application?

[AlkemScaleModels]

The rivet detail is the bone crusher on this one.  Maybe the clear decal trick will work like on the tread plate.
What are you using for a floor?  I assume wood planks, but perhaps steel given that this little guy is carrying a heavy load?

Lee

Try the archer decal rivets. There was a clinic at Cocoa Beach showing their use. Very impressive. The clinician was using them for master model copies for resin casting.

Funny you should mention them Bernie - I have a sheet of their N Scale Rivets sitting on my workbench.  They are nicely priced, and after I ordered them from the Archer website they arrived three days later.  While I had hoped to do this one entirely out of the scrap box,like the Critter, I am willing to part with a few coins to try this out.

Did the clinic give any good tips for application?

I didn't attend that clinic, but Marty did and he told me about it and showed me the sample rivets the speaker gave out.

[Philip H]

The 1:160 rivet set I got looks really nice on the sheet.  Now that all the couplers are installed and I'm happy with the rid eheight, I'll start on the sides and ends.  On to rivet land!

[wm3798]

I've got this project in the queue... One of these days!

Looking forward to more project shots...
Lee

[SirTainly]

Could you use a punch on the reverse of the sides to make the rivets? Probably a really slow option compared to the rivet decals which have looked very good on other projects that I've seen.

[Philip H]

Could you use a punch on the reverse of the sides to make the rivets? Probably a really slow option compared to the rivet decals which have looked very good on other projects that I've seen.

I briefly considerred using a sewing pounce wheel http://www.micromark.com/3-PIECE-POUNCE-WHEEL-SET,6668.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase, but since the only one in the house belongs to the resident sewing queen, and she's pretty protective of it, I let that thought go quickly and quietly.

[Philip H]

Last night I got the side and end sills on - again using strip styrene.  The photo was taken this AM, using the macro function on my camera phone.  I apologize for the blurriness - but I was blurry at that moment too, as the coffee was still brewing.

The couplers are MT 1025's I had lying around, and I actually think they project from the end at about the right length.  SInce the car will mostly be for show (but occassionally moved around a plant or two to complicate switching - I body mounted them to the model using gel CA.  Yes, the one droops a little, but don't we all without caffeine?

For reference the white square in the back is 1 inch by 1 inch.

Hopefully I can get some better shots tonight with the trucks in place, and then its on to detailing and paint.

[wm3798]

The 1025's also afford you better axle clearance for your low-rider effect.  I've got this project figured out in my mind, I just haven't tackled it on the workbench yet.  Too much other junk piled up.  Can you shoot the bottom of the car?  I want to see how you dealt with the bolsters.

I'm thinking on mine I might just use some of those awful MDC dummy knuckles I have laying around.  For this type of car I expect that the smaller appearance will be more important than whether or not it works.

Lee

[Philip H]

bolsters . . . hum . . . it's basically strip styrene running the length of the car laminated to what I thought was a good thickness and then driled out for shortned pins.  Nothing fancy, but practical.

[Dave Schneider]

Hey Philip,

I ran across this slide on Ebay and thought of your project. These are 100 ton capacity cars that originally were built in 1942 to haul naval gun barrels for the Puget Sound Naval Yard. I had never seen a photo of these cars hauling anything else, but this looks like a transformer or a generator.

http://cgi.ebay.com/MILWAUKEE-ROAD-MILW-FLAT-CAR-601116-ORIGINAL-SLIDE_W0QQitemZ160398139321QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2558795fb9

Best wishes, Dave

[central.vermont]

Here's a shot from the Fallen Flag site.
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/milw/milw601101ary.jpg

Jon

[Bob Bufkin]

Now I gotta try and dig out some info on the routing of those cars.  I know that the Washington Navy Yard built most of the gun barrels for years and I wonder if they ever got to D.C.  Have seen photos of other flats carrying gun barrels out of the yard (mostly PRR and B&O flats).
 

[Philip H]

After plowing through the Saturday Honey-Do's, Imade more progress.  Note the installation of the brake wheel, push pole pockets, and stand, and the beginning of the rivet detail.  The rivets are Archer 1:160 rivet decals, and I think they look really nice.  Once I get the gap filled in on the left, I'll seal this side with Dullcote, and do the other one.